El Faro de Mazatl谩n (the Lighthouse)

Well, I got my exercise in today. Here’s a rough overview of the bit of walking I did, which does not highlight the fact that the trip included climbing 150m (492 feet), including 339 steps.

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Dale and I had wanted to climb El Faro (the lighthouse) since we first heard about it. She did it with a group of friends recently and was keen to show me how to get there. We waited this long to make sure we were in decent enough shape as it’s quite a hike up, never mind actually walking to the start of the trek and then back again. I’ve been walking the beach daily for weeks and have start running again, just two or three kilometres three times a week. So that in combination with how well I did hiking in Utah, I knew the Faro wasn’t going to be that much of a challenge.

I met Dale on the beach at 8:00 this morning and we walked to the beach panga. I only paid one way since I had errands to run downtown that would bring me closer to the village panga for the trip home.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Doesn't the lighthouse look imposing?

Doesn’t the lighthouse look imposing?

From the Maz side, it was a pretty quick walk by the docks to get to the start of the lighthouse trail. The streets were very busy and there weren’t really any sidewalks, so we had to watch where we were going. I found the start of the bus route that terminates in the Golden Zone.

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You'd work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You’d work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

The lighthouse trail starts of gently with an ascent along a rutty path. It then becomes challenging when you reach the first of the 339 steps. This is the only way to get to the Faro, on foot. It’s an incredible amount of work to get there if the point isn’t to get exercise. On the way down, we passed painters going up and they looked in pain, one carrying a huge bucket of paint, another the ladder, another the miscellaneous equipment!

Access to the Faro. Don't let it fool you, pedestrians only!

Access to the Faro. Don’t let the entrance fool you, pedestrians only!

The path gets rough very fast.

The path gets rough very fast.

I was in fine shape for the climb, but stairs are worse than slopes and my knee was not happy, creaking and shifting and swelling the more I progressed. I made sure to only step up with the left knee.

We paused periodically to take in the amazing view and take pictures, so we got to the top in about 20 minutes. There, you can compare your time to statistics to see if you are an elite, expert, sportive, excursionist, or recreational user of the trail. Even if we had done it without pauses, I’m pretty sure we could not have done better than the excursionist rating (11 to 20 mins)! The elites are the ones who run the trail.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I'm not sure as it's attached to the university.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I’m not sure as it’s attached to the university.

Looking out to Isla.

Looking out to Isla.

Goat Island.

Goat Island.

Funny cactus.

Funny cactus.

View of the docks.

View of the docks.

Starting the stairs.

Starting the stairs.

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

150 steps done!

150 steps done!

Lots more steps to go...

Lots more steps to go…

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. :)

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. 馃檪

We made it!

We made it!

The view from the top of the world’s tallest natural lighthouse was amazing! I could see all of Maz and beyond laid out below me. It was a fantastic way to really get a lay of the land. Dale and I couldn’t stop pointing out landmarks, from the hotels on Isla to the cathedral to the resorts in the Golden Zone. She was amused that the first thing I spotted was the Pacifico Brewery. 馃檪

Looks like the Isla police station!

Looks like the Isla police station!

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

I was there!

I was there!

Really, I was there! :)

Really, I was there! 馃檪

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

All of Maz laid out below us.

All of Maz laid out below us.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third to the left.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third right in the middle.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I was dressed for that.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I wasn’t dressed for that.

We eventually headed down and walked to Paseo del Centenario, which took us to Olas Altas, because Dale had finally found the Looney Bean coffee house and wanted to show it to me since I’m almost out of coffee. I can now say I’ve walked just about the entire Malec贸n!

First time I've seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

First time I’ve seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Castle on a hill.

Castle on a hill.

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Crashing waves.

Crashing waves.

I liked the look of this building.

I liked the look of this building.

Sweet viewing platform.

Sweet viewing platform.

More waves.

More waves.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Their address plaque says 'No number.'

Their address plaque says ‘No number.’

Icebox Hill.

Icebox Hill.

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malec贸n.

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malec贸n.

Official start of the Malec贸n at this end.

Official start of the Malec贸n at this end.

I've now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malec贸n.

I’ve now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malec贸n.

When we got to the Looney Bean, much forehead smacking occurred. I’ve been by it dozens of time, but when it’s been closed! You can’t see the sign unless you are on the Malec贸n.

The Looney Bean at last!

The Looney Bean at last!

My hope was that the Looney Bean would have coffee beans as it is a much more convenient location than Rico’s. They do! They don’t have nearly the choice (only ‘house blend’ and Chiapas) and they are more expensive, but since I save the 20-peso round trip bus ride, it’s a better deal.

One pound of Chiapas, their strongest coffee, was 120 pesos. I bought a half pound and the cost was 70 pesos. So a pound is a better deal. It takes me about three weeks to get through half a pound, so I prefer to pay a bit more and have fresh coffee. I had them coarse grind it for me. The grinds smell divine, so I’m optimistic I will like it as much as I did the Veracruz!

Because we were so hot and sticky, neither one of us was in the mood for having a coffee there (!). I suggested we head to Panam谩’s bakery because I honestly thought I was going to faint from low blood sugar (yes, I had breakfast before the climb. I’ll have more about that in a later post). There, I got one of their ham, cheese, and jalape帽o sandwiches and a pineapple strudel thing for 24 pesos total, a cheap and yummy lunch!

After, Dale went to the HSBC bank. We then agreed to split up as she was ready to go home and wanted to take the beach panga while I wanted to go to Waldo’s and possibly Ley’s, which put me at the village panga.

I wasn’t 100% sure where Waldo’s was from the HSBC, but I knew the general direction and got there without any detours whatsoever. I’ve definitely got the lay of the land! Waldo’s had what I wanted, inexpensive laundry detergent, so I was good to go. I was not tempted to buy any groceries (future post again), so I began the long schlep down (and up and down and up and down) Leandro Valle to Emilio Barrag谩n to the panga to Isla to home. I was exhausted when I got home, much more so than I would have normally been after such an excurison (future post again).

Dale is leaving Isla next week and moving to the Golden Zone. I will miss my friend. I know I will still go out and do things and it’s not like we won’t meet up again, but it’s not the same. For one thing, going out in the evenings will be more expensive since I’ll have to pay for the entire pulmon铆a rides. But her new RV park is right on the bus line, so I know I can go visit cheaply. And, best of all, she’s thinking of going to Montana this summer and so is seriously considering a stay at RV Park Chez Rae!

I’m so glad we had a chance to do the Faro together. I don’t think it’ll be my only time making that climb!

Running Errands On a Muggy Morning

I’m waiting for a big temporary contract to start any day, so I’m trying to squeeze in a little fun first! Dale and I both love to go to Maz and just wander around, so after she dropped me off last night, we made plans to go back to town this morning to run a few errands.

We were originally going to take the bus to Walmart, but Dale has figured out that she really doesn’t need to go there. My budget is still 2,000 pesos short because of the recent banking disaster, so my plan to go to Soriana and get different groceries got scrapped.

I’m going to call my bank next week to see if they made any headway to get my money back, but I’m sure it’s gone. It’s going to be a really tight month as I only have 1,100 pesos spending money for groceries and outings till February. I got through November with about that much and I know I can do it, but I’ll have to be really mindful of where my money is going. I’d rather go out and eat beans at home than to eat well at home and not go out, so the blog should still be interesting. 馃槈

At any rate, I got home last night and there was no internet. There was a lot of work done around the property and on the roof yesterday, so I thought that maybe the line got knocked out. I didn’t mind the work since it was for me this time!

I haven’t had any running hot water in the shower to speak of since the water went out a few weeks ago. My landlady’s husband figured out that there was air in the line and got it sorted, then changed my shower head to a smaller one with fewer holes to increase the pressure. He also lifted the rooftop water tank to increase the water drop, which increased the water pressure. My shower last night was amazing! And I now have warm water in the kitchen in just a few minutes, something I used to wait 20 minutes for!

So, no internet last night. I got to bed early so I could get up early and run to Carmelita’s to check my email before going to Maz. My active clients right now are in EST, so 7:00 here is 9:00 for them and if I can expect anything for the day, it’s usually in my inbox by the time I’m up. There was nothing pressing, thankfully. Dale had sent me something to print and I figured out how to get it from my iPad to my computer, which was quite an accomplishment!

It was about 8:00 when I headed home and I stopped by my landlady’s place. Her husband (who did the plumbing work) was in the garage, so I thanked him for the work on the shower and told him about the internet. My landlady came by just as Dale and I were heading out around 8:30 to say that she had called TelMex and they said there was nothing wrong that they could see through their system, so she was going to go speak with someone in person.

Dale and I finally made it to Maz and stopped at Panam谩’s for a pastry. Today is the Day of the Kings/Epiphany, which is a holiday, so they didn’t have much for sale except for the cake with, I imagine, the bean in it. We grabbed two strudel things that wound up being full of custard. Very tasty, but I have issues with eggs, so I might have an upset tummy later. We shall see…

We both had a couple of errands to run, but no shopping per se. I stopped at the bank to withdraw rent and spending money. I really like the Santander Bank because it gave me my 7,000 pesos in 50s, 100s, 200s, and 500s, instead of just 500s! I am so glad I gave them a second chance.

And then, I did something stupid. I LEFT MY CARD IN THE ATM. I’m so used to getting the card first before the machine will give me my money. The lady who used the ATM next ran after me and gave me back my card, thank goodness! I was so grateful to her as that’s the last thing I would have needed. CIBC assured me that they could courier me a new card to Mexico, but can you imagine the delay for that, never mind the difficulty in finding a secure place to have the card sent to?! So thank you again, wonderful lady!

Next, we found a copy place for Dale. She wanted some contact cards to give to folks. I didn’t bring any card stock with me, so I printed in colour onto regular paper to then be photocopied onto card stock. Dale handed the copy clerk the paper and told me to do my thing, ie. be her translator. I said that she wanted cards. The clerk found card stock, not perforated, which Dale could cut up herself. The copies were beautiful and only cost Dale 24 pesos. I’m frankly shocked that they turned out so crisp and clear.

Then, Dale told me that she had heard about a museum above the Plazuela Machado that is about the history of Maz. We found it and entry was only 20 pesos. We went in and first listened to a movie where we learned about how insignificant Maz was as a port until the end of the 19th century, how it got built up thanks to industry (mostly sugar cane factories), how it was nearly destroyed when the economy tanked, and how Mazlatecos saved their city by switching to fishing and tourism as the primary industries. It was really interesting. I’m surprised by how little the city has changed since it was built in terms of the main buildings and roads.

We then walked around the museum, which gave us an idea of what a typical residence in the late 19th century would have been like (simple, with lots of dark wood). There were lots of pictures of Maz in the day, too, which Dale and I found fascinating. What a little gem!

This is the kind of gas stove I want for my cabin!

This is the kind of gas stove I want for my cabin!

Gorgeous floor tile upstairs in the museum.

Gorgeous floor tile upstairs in the museum.

View of the Plazuela Machado from the upstairs balcony.

View of the Plazuela Machado from the upstairs balcony.

Such a pretty building.

Such a pretty building.

Gorgeous floor of the balcony.

Gorgeous floor of the balcony.

And a ceiling to match!

And a ceiling to match!

Diva Angela Peralta, after whom the theatre is named.

Diva Angela Peralta, after whom the theatre is named.

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Outside, someone turned this window into a bench.

Outside, someone turned this window into a bench.

Looking up at the museum balcony.

Looking up at the museum balcony.

The museum entrance is on聽Constituci贸n between Plazuela Machado and Olas Altas. It’s in the yellow Connobia building that has the Italian restaurant. The entrance price list is by the door, to give you an idea of what to look for.

My next pressing errand was to get my tote bag fixed. I have a leather tote that I just adore because it’s just a good size for my lifestyle. It’s not pretty, but it can hold my electronics, a little shopping, and even serve as an overnight bag. Unfortunately, the strap has been coming apart for ages and it was literally hanging by a thread as we finished up at the museum.

I’d asked Contessa if she knew of a leather repair place and she suggested I ask the shoe shiners in front of the cathedral. They were of no help. I then asked the gals at the museum and they said that the ladies at a clothing repair place in the mercado would know where to send me. So that’s where we ended up going next.

First mail box I've seen in Mexico!

First mail box I’ve seen in Mexico!

The McDonald's near the Mercado only serves dessert!

The McDonald’s near the Mercado only serves dessert! Panam谩’s is next door.

We walked around the perimeter of the mercado first, not certain what we were looking for. I found a woman selling battered magazines and books. She had a bunch of Reader’s Digests, which are great for practicing the reading of Spanish as they are mature but easy language. Unfortunately, she wanted 10 pesos each, not negotiable. I decided to grab one anyway when I saw that she had a copy of the Spanish version of Little Women, one of my favourite childhood books! I love reading translations of works I know well as that helps me improve my vocabulary and grammar without also struggling to follow the story. She said the book was 40 pesos and I could have one Reader’s Digest free with it. Sold!

After some time, we found the clothing repair place and the ladies did know exactly where to send me. I was really confused when they said to go up and down, but I eventually understood that I was to go several blocks ‘that way’ and that the shop, the name of course I’ve now forgotten, would be on my left.

Off we went and everything became clear as the road when UP and then DOWN again. Maz is not flat!

On the way, we passed a house that is for sale and with which Dale is, understandably, in love. Even though it is derelict, it still has heavy wooden door and window frames and stained glass.

Dale and I want to buy this house. :)

Dale and I want to buy this house. 馃檪

After a few blocks, we hadn’t found the shop, so I went into a shoe shop to ask and the lady stepped out to point one block back. Even with my eyesight, I could see the sign! It was just in the wrong direction from the way were were going. The shop is at the corner of Zaragoza and Benito Juarez.

I brought the bag in and the gentleman said that he could fix it for 30 pesos! He set to work with glue, a patch (unexpected), and his treadle sewing machine. It wasn’t fine work, but for this bag, it was 100% what I wanted and the patch is on the inside of the strap so it doesn’t show. I just wish he’d had darker thread, but I’m being fussy. I am so pleased! And did I mention 30 pesos?!

Treadle sewing machine at the leather repair shop.

Treadle sewing machine at the leather repair shop.

Inside of my bag strap.

Inside of my bag strap.

Outside. I managed to roll off those spots of glue and except for the different thread colour, it looks as good as new from that side!

Outside. I managed to roll off those spots of glue and except for the different thread colour, it looks as good as new from that side!

We had thought to have lunch at the Mercado, but, really, we weren’t that hungry at that time. We walked up Zaragoza to get to the panga and didn’t pass anything that was calling our names so we decided to save our money and have lunch at our respective homes.

The former orphanage.

The former orphanage.

I got in and had internet, as well as water all over my bathroom and hallway floors. Toilet failure. OMG. I went to the landlady to pay the rent and explained the issue (too high water level in the tank and leaking through the handle). I said that I turned the water off to the toilet until it can be fixed. Guess it’s the week for problems!

Monday Night at La Chupiteria in Mazatl谩n

Dale’s friend Rob plays at La Chupiteria on Paseo Claussen, just north of Angel Flores, on Monday nights. Long-term Mazatlecos would know this location as being the former Canucks bar.

We left my place just past six and took our time getting there, winding and wending our way through the historical district so that we could stick to well populated areas. I was thrilled to pass ‘my’ ice cream guy, whom I haven’t seen in ages because I’ve been going to Maz too early or too late. I tried a new flavour, green, and can’t remember what he said it is. I’m not sure why, but I only got charged 15 pesos!

La Chupiteria is a lovely location across from the Malec贸n. The decor is splendid. I took lots of photos, but I haven’t mastered my iPhone camera since these two were the only ones that sort of came out. 馃檨

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The band was playing sock hop/rock 'n roll stuff from the '50s and '60s.

The band was playing sock hop/rock ‘n roll stuff from the ’50s and ’60s.

Before the music started, we walked around the back part where there were a few vendors. I’ve been looking for a certain style of apron and found exactly what I wanted for only 120 pesos (handmade by a group of 11 women sewing their way out of poverty, so I would not haggle), but I hadn’t brought that much cash with me. I doubt they are going to sell out and I’ll try them again another week.

The music was really good and lots of people got on the dance floor. Dale and I tapped to the beat, but did not venture out. I’m used to being the youngest in the crowd, but it was particularly noticeable last night!

Dale is a very slow drinker and I like my beer cold. So I drank two to her one. Total cost for three beers was 75 pesos! While I had a good evening at La Chupiteria, it would not be my first choice of place to get a beer in Maz since they charge 25 pesos. It’s been my experience that a beer is 20 pesos in Maz and 25 on Isla, so La Chupiteria is a more expensive place to drink. I know, I know, five pesos isn’t much, but it’s the principle of the thing.

We then walked down to Olas Altas to look for the Looney Bean coffee shop and can’t find it. Dale is sure she’s seen it. We are confused.

From Olas Altas, we headed to Plazuela Machado and stopped en route at the Panam谩 bakery to get some treats for the road. I got a savoury jalepe帽o-y bun thing that had a thin layer of ham and cheese in it, very yummy!, and a pineapple filled thing. 24 pesos for a small late supper, not bad! Dale and I are huge fans of Panam谩’s as the pastries are super cheap, always fresh, and we’ve never had a bad one! This was our first time at this location; we usually go to the one between the Mercado and the cathedral.

My night soured when I got home to find no internet, hence the lateness of this post. More on that in my next post!

Sunny With a Chance of Goats and Stingrays

I only had a little work to do for tomorrow morning, so I finished it first thing today and then headed out to hike up Goat Mountain a second time.

It was a gorgeous hot and sunny day, the first that we’ve had in almost a week. I ran into Janet and Grant on the way and caught up with them, as well as getting cuddles from their dog, Boo!

Watching ships in a harbour is something I really enjoy, so I took my time getting to Goat Mountain, using the zoom function on my camera in lieu of binoculars to watch containers being loaded on and off ships.

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The pelicans were out in full force. They never cease to amuse me, even though they are not an exotic creature to me since we have them in SK and I saw plenty of them in Texas!

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Check out the wary expression on his face!

Check out the sly expression on his face!

The goats were also out today and did a good job of ignoring me!

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Put in sheep or hairy coos instead of goats and I would wear that this picture was taken in the Scottish Highlands!

Put in sheep or hairy coos instead of goats and I would wear that this picture was taken in the Scottish Highlands!

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Scotland, seriously!

Scotland, seriously!

There were also lots of a bird of prey, probably a hawk, at the very top of Goat Mountain. Getting up and down it was again rather anticlimactic because it looks so imposing from a distance!

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Can you see the spires of the cathedral?

Can you see the spires of the cathedral?

Dale and I are going to climb up to the lighthouse soonish. She's done it once.

Dale and I are going to climb up to the lighthouse soonish. She’s done it once.

Lots of these birds flying around.

Lots of these birds flying around.

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Using my excellent zoom to show off this incredibly clear water.

Using my excellent zoom to show off this incredibly clear water.

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More goats with lots of bleating, probably telling me to go away!

More goats with lots of bleating, probably telling me to go away!

On the way back, I passed a municipal police truck. Both the driver and the officer standing in the back holding a weapon were wearing bandanas over their face, which I read means that they are narcos attempting to protect their identities. They slowed down to give me a once over and I removed my sunglasses, smiled, and nodded. I got no reaction from them at all. Goat Island is quite an isolated part of Isla with little traffic, so it’s nice to see it being patrolled. The police force here does a good job keeping order. I’ve witnessed one arrest for what was very likely drunk and disorderly conduct.

I came home by the beach, which was eerily quiet for such a beautiful day, but explained by the numerous yellow flags warning swimmers that there was a risk of stingrays. Some hardy souls still braved the water!

Yellow with logo is a warning for stingrays.

Yellow with logo is a warning for stingrays.

It took about two dozen pictures to get one with the wind catching the flag just right so that I could capture the logo!

It took about two dozen pictures to get one with the wind catching the flag just right so that I could capture the logo!

Low Key New Year’s in Mazatl谩n

My cousin and I were planning to go to a gala for New Year’s tonight and had our outfits all ready, but a series of events made those plans fall through. I wasn’t disappointed since a late night of boozing and drinking and dancing isn’t really my thing (no, I didn’t get old, I’ve always been boring!).

Instead, we decided to meet up at their hotel and find something to do. I suggested we head down to the Plazuela Machado and see what was what. Neither one of us was particularly keen on being out to midnight, which suited me just fine because the panga home jumps from 8 pesos to 60 after midnight! I would have overnighted at the hotel had we done the gala, but that plan didn’t make sense if we were in the Olas Altas area.

So I headed out to the hotel early this afternoon. In a bid to get some exercise and to save money, I chose to walk from the embarcadero, a distance of 7.5km. If I have time, I don’t think twice about walking up to 10km in good conditions. These were ideal, a slightly cool and overcast day and I knew that I would be safe going through the bit from the embarcadero to the malec贸n.

Big cruise ships today!

Big cruise ships today!

The trip took me 2 hours door to door, and that included a detour to get a pastry to munch on!

Lamps shaped like seahorses.

Lamps shaped like seahorses.

Seahorse detail in a door.

Seahorse detail in a door.

Not sure what this coliseum is going to be...

Not sure what this coliseum is going to be…

My few minutes in the Golden Zone were enough to last a lifetime. That area is not for me, YUCK! It was teeming with Gringos, filled with NOB stores, and I kept getting harassed (in English, no less) to buy stuff. It was just as bad as being in a border town! Sure the downtown bit I walked through to get to Olas Altas wasn’t as shiny and pretty and there were no big name stores, but people only spoke to me to say hi, I was left to wander in peace and quiet, and the architecture was a lot more interesting!

Welcome to the Golden Zone! Don't worry, we have McDonald's!

Welcome to the Golden Zone! Don’t worry, we have McDonald’s!

Yes, that's a fully operational Blockbuster video store! LOL!!!

Yes, that’s a fully operational Blockbuster video store! LOL!!!

From the hotel, we took a pulmon铆a down to Plazuela Machado, 120 pesos, non-negotiable! We walked around there a bit, but it was early so restaurants were only starting to get set up. We headed back to Olas Altas, where several restaurants were already doing brisk business.

After perusing menus, we decided to try the quiet Copa de leche restaurant, which had good variety and reasonable prices. The boy had steak with a baked potato, my cousin picked a shrimp dish, I opted for enchiladas with a mole sauce, and we split an order of beef (carne asada) tacos.

Dinner was a Copa de leche, with a lovely view of the water and comfortable chairs!

Dinner was at Copa de leche, with a lovely view of the water and comfortable chairs!

I’d never had mole sauce before and had no idea what I was getting into. Turns out that it is a savoury cocoa sauce! Yes, chocolate! The enchiladas were filled with chicken, tomatoes, and onions, and absolutely smothered in the sauce. Really, there was too much sauce. So thank goodness I also got a basket of corn tortillas to mop up every last bit! 馃檪 It was crazy good and I really appreciated the sprinkle of sesame seeds over top, a flavour I have been missing. My taste buds were thrilled to try something new.

The other dishes were apparently equally satisfactory. The steak plate was particularly impressive, with a huge steak topped with mushrooms, a loaded baked potato (bacon and crema), rice, and salad. The tacos were yummy, coming with avocado and a side of refried beans and fried onions.

Total bill, for the food plus two limonadas, one soda, a coffee, and a tip, about 500 pesos, or 167 per person. My meal was only 110 pesos (85 for the food and 25 for the limonada) and the steak was the most expensive item at only 120 pesos, plus 20 for the soda.

After dinner, we headed back towards Plazuela Machado. My cousin confessed that her sandals were rubbing her the wrong way and that she needed ideally both a change of shoes and a bandaid. I didn’t know what would be open at that time of night, but thought that if anything would, it would be around the mercado area.

We headed there, enjoying all the lights at the cathedral, and found an open shoe store! She found a cute and comfortable pair of slip on shoes that matched her outfit for only 79 pesos! I asked the gal at the till if she knew of a pharmacy that would still be open and was directed to one just past the Waldo’s, which I knew was in the middle of the next block.

So that was our next stop and I learned that you have to ask at the counter for bandaids in at least some pharmacies in Mexico! The first request didn’t go so well as we were brought tensor bandages, so I found a picture of a bandaid on my phone and that brought what we needed. I would have preferred to have been able to pick as I would have selected something bigger and sturdier, but my pleas for bigger ones fell on deaf ears and my cousin said she could make do.

She then spent a couple of minutes on a stool applying several bandaids to get the coverage and adhesion she needed. It was a rather absurd situation that we found rather funny. It’s just stuff that happens. I had a hard time with sore feet when I first got here, with the sand rubbing them raw, but my feet have thankfully hardened.

From the pharmacy, we headed across the street to a juice stand. They had strawberry and banana licuados (like a smoothie) while I opted for fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. It was incredibly filling since a small had the juice of THREE grapefruits with a little pulp, but it was very refreshing and tolerably sweet. I really enjoyed it. At just 17 pesos, I think that could be a treat when I go to mercado.

We then returned to Olas Altas to sit on the wall, listen to the waves, and make plans for the next couple of days. They were thinking of heading back to my place tomorrow, but the boy has been ill and they are both exhausted. It makes more sense for them to enjoy the resort for their last full day. I will head out to the hotel first thing Friday to meet my cousin for coffee (she found a roasting house with good coffee, so I plan to come home with some!) and then they’ll be off to the airport around 10:00.

Plans made, it was time for them to head home as they were just wiped. I got them into a pulmon铆a (again, a non-negotiable 120 pesos) and then walked back to Plazuela Machado to soak in a little New Year’s ambiance. It was just past nine and the partying was starting, with lots of loud music and full restaurants. Really not my scene. I was surprised that there weren’t more vendors.

I flagged down a pulmon铆a ready to argue that I wasn’t going to pay more than 60 pesos to get to the embarcadero and almost fainted when the driver said 40! Wow!!! I’m pretty sure that’s my cheapest ride ever from Plazuela Machado!

A panga was leaving the dock as I arrived at the embarcadero. The pilot saw me and redocked while I bought my ticket.

It was a quick ride over and then I was on Isla, which was thrumming with activity, with lots of music and some fireworks. Many ‘Feliz a帽o’s were exchanged on my 10-minute walk home, making me glad that I took the time to Google how to say ‘happy new year’ in Spanish.

The neighbours across the street are having a loud party, so ear plugs will be in order for tonight. I just honestly don’t have a desire to be out partying, preferring small quiet gatherings.

Happy new year to all my lovely readers!