Albuquerque to Santa Fe (with stops in Madrid and Cerillos)

Both Kelly and my host in Santa Fe recommended taking highway 14 instead of the interstate and stopping in two small communities along the way. Advice from locals must be heeded! And the interstate isn’t much fun. 🙂

This part of NM really reminds me of the Okanagan.

This part of NM really reminds me of the Okanagan.

First stop was Madrid. Not pronounced Meh-drid, but Mah-drid, an old coal mining and then ghost town that is now a quirky little shopping district.

Entering Madrid.

Entering Madrid.

Shops line highway 14 on both sides.

Shops line highway 14 on both sides.

I drove to the far end of the town and parked at the antique shop there. I went in and poked around. Near the end, I found a pair of earrings I fell in love with and the owner gave me a bit of a deal, not charging tax on them, so a flat $20. I tried to photograph them, but I didn’t manage it. They are rather like two glass marbles, a smaller one on top of a bigger one, with découpaged flowers in them. The friendly owner said I was welcome to remain parked at his shop and gave me recommendations for restaurants. I wasn’t hungry, of course, but the words ‘ice cream’ and ‘coffee’ did catch my attention. 🙂

I stopped in a few shops on the way to the ice cream, seeing tons of jewellery, but nothing I liked nearly as much as my new earrings. It’s always risky buying the first thing you see, but I tend to know what I like and recognize things that are unique.

The ice cream place had Dreyer’s ice cream or locally made gelato. I went for the latter as they had chocolate with brownie pieces.

This is their 'child's size' gelato. I would have hated to see an adult one...

This is their ‘child’s size’ gelato. I would have hated to see an adult one…

Amazing driveway made of... broken glass? Lots of colours.

Amazing driveway made of… broken glass? Lots of colours.

I walked as I ate my treat, making a note of shops I would want to stop in later. I stopped at the famous Madrid Mineshaft Bar, thinking to tour their museum, but I waited for ages to buy a ticket and no one showed, so I figured it wasn’t meant to be. I wasn’t disappointed as it didn’t sound great and I would have just gone as a way to kill a little time.

Famous Mineshaft Bar.

Famous Mineshaft Bar.

The entrance looks like a mine shaft.

The entrance looks like a mine shaft.

Instead, I did a few more shops, then got a coffee and sat to watch both pedestrian and vehicular traffic for a bit.

Their coffee was good! :)

Their coffee was good! 🙂

Java Junction. No pricier than Starbucks, and tastier.

Java Junction. No pricier than Starbucks, and tastier.

I liked their old sign.

I liked their old sign.

Then, it was time to stroll back to my truck.

Old miner's house.

Old miner’s house.

This is where I got the gelato.

This is where I got the gelato.

:)

🙂

Name of the shop.

Name of the shop.

So many pretty buildings!

So many pretty buildings!

It's sitting there on flat tires waiting for someone to love it enough to restore it...

It’s sitting there on flat tires waiting for someone to love it enough to restore it…

Another pretty shop.

Another pretty shop.

If the snakes don't get you, the faeries will!

If the snakes don’t get you, the faeries will!

Old station wagon.

Old station wagon.

Photo park.

Photo park.

My last stop was a bit of a mistake, or so I thought when I walked in, as it was the Madrid grocery store, housed in, well, a house. Prettiest grocery store I’ve ever seen! Well, I found some handicrafts in the back, including Guatemalan purses that are the exact style of purse I was hoping to find in Maz this winter, basically a large wallet with a shoulder strap that can be tucked out of the way. I can throw it in my giant tote to go to Maz or use it as is around Isla. It was a little pricey ($25), but the colours were perfect and I knew I would regret not getting it.

So I definitely contributed to the Madrid economy!

I continued on through gorgeous scenery.

Really looks like the Okanagan!

Really looks like the Okanagan!

Doesn't it?

Doesn’t it?

Next stop was Cerillos, as in little cerros (hills) not matches (fire sticks). This is turquoise mining country and Cerillos was once seriously considered to be the capital of New Mexico. Now, it is almost a ghost town. I followed the signs to the museum and petting zoo.

Museum and petting zoo is stretching the truth a tad. :)

Museum and petting zoo is stretching the truth a tad. 🙂

Another quirky building.

Another quirky building.

The entrance is a jewellery shop. The owner’s son, a guy about my age, was very friendly. He wouldn’t take my money for the museum entrance or a bag of feed for the animals, so I bought another pair of earrings. 🙂 These were turquoise, beautiful small rough mismatched pieces of it on surgical steel, for just $10. My first piece of turquoise jewellery and what a place to have gotten it!

The museum is a well curated and organized collection of old stuff.

The museum is a well curated and organized collection of old stuff.

My farrier friend Charles would likely recognize all of these.

My farrier friend Charles would likely recognize all of these.

The animals were a few chickens, three goats, and a llama. One goat was hungry, and the other two just wanted to be petted! I fed them a mixture of grain and corn. I had water and soap in the truck for washing my hands after nearly getting licked to death by the goat! 🙂

The llama wasn't friendly.

The llama wasn’t friendly.

The goats were!

The goats were!

And so were the chickens.

And so were the chickens.

But not these chickens.

But not these chickens.

Scenic overlook.

Scenic overlook.

The top of the building is lined with glass telephone pole insulators.

The top of the building is lined with glass telephone pole insulators.

Front of the 'museum.'

Front of the ‘museum.’

'Downtown' Cerillos.

‘Downtown’ Cerillos.

RVers would have watch out!

RVers would have watch out!

Rather impressive church for a small town!

Rather impressive church for a small town!

Cerillos was a fun little stop along the road and I’m glad I stopped in.

It was early when I drove into Santa Fe, but I had left ABQ earlier than expected. I called my host to see if it was okay to come in early, yup! I headed out there, but had to call for help near the end since my GPS was being useless. I eventually found it!

So that’s where I am now, just outside of Santa Fe. I am staying at reader John’s spread, but I won’t say which John just to give him a modicum of privacy. 🙂 Now, get this. John has me living in his Arctic Fox trailer! I’m in an RV!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John made me feel very welcome and I will likely be here a week. I don’t plan to work as hard as I did in T or C because Santa Fe is the NM city I really wanted to explore, but I will work some (and have a project due Friday). The trailer is wonderful — comfy bed, full kitchen, dinette for working, and full bathroom. I have FHU. John showed me around a the ‘neighbourhood’ a bit and then left me to my own devices.

I went back to town and bought groceries for a week, dropping more than 50USD! But this should last me the week, in addition to a couple of meals out when I’m in town. There was also a two for one deal on some white wine, so I opted for that instead of beer. 🙂 I did Panda Express for dinner though, as I was famished and too tired to cook.

Thanks for the warm welcome and hospitality, John!

Nickel Tour of Albuquerque

Kelly and I left her house just before 9:00 this morning and headed to the Albuquerque Museum of Art and History. We parked and she took me on a walking tour of Old Town, a very picturesque and quaint neighbourhood.

Chiles hanging from the rafters.

Chiles hanging from the rafters.

This reminded me of New Orleans architecture.

This reminded me of New Orleans architecture.

Lots of quaint courtyards in Old Town.

Lots of quaint courtyards in Old Town.

Very '70s stained glass in the chapel

Very ’70s stained glass in the chapel

Quite a fancy church for this style.

Quite a fancy church for this style.

We loved the pigeon on the cross.

We loved the pigeon on the cross.

The church is quite large.

The church is quite large.

Found a prehistoric-looking wheel.

Found a prehistoric-looking wheel.

I love the adobe, the blues, and the bricks altogether. I am rethinking the style for my cabin. :)

I love the adobe, the blues, and the bricks altogether. I am rethinking the style for my cabin. 🙂

The sign above the door says, in French, "the door of heaven."

The sign above the door says, in French, “the door of heaven.”

Big cog wheel.

Big cog wheel.

Coral rose.

Coral rose.

Magenta rose.

Magenta rose.

Cream rose.

Cream rose.

Red rose.

Red rose.

I love the Midwest-style adobe bungalows!

I love the Midwest-style adobe bungalows!

This one was grey, not a good colour for adobe.

This one was grey, not a good colour for adobe.

Love the colours.

Love the colours.

Stone wall outside the museum.

Stone wall outside the museum.

She has a membership to the museum, so if it hadn’t been the free admission day, I would have still gotten in at no charge. I made a donation to support the museum.

We didn’t see everything, but we did take in two galleries. The first was a really eclectic art gallery with an incredible range of different styles of painting, including surreal, modern, and impressionist. I saw a lot that I liked.

Then, we did the new gallery about the history of ABQ. We both felt it was a little scattered, but it was interesting. We were both impressed by the giant satellite image of ABQ on the floor of the gallery’s rotunda and I was able to quickly find her neighbourhood!

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Sculptures outside the museum.

Next, we headed to the Ranch Market, a Mexican grocery store. It had all the products and services I was used to seeing in Mexico. What a feast for all the senses!

Beautiful tiles outside the Ranch Market.

Beautiful tiles outside the Ranch Market.

American-standard Mexican grocery store, if that makes sense.

American-standard Mexican grocery store, if that makes sense.

It was only about 10:00 by the time we came out of the market, but we were both famished, so we headed over to a restaurant Kelly loves that she thought might be open that early, and was, Sharky’s. They are a taco joint with a beach theme (yes, in the middle of the desert)!

Sharky's.

Sharky’s.

Historic Route 66.

Historic Route 66.

Lunch was on me and I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the prices were in line with what I paid for tacos in San Carlos! More expensive than Maz, but still very reasonable! We each started with two fried fish tacos (hold the mayo for me) and layered on the salsas. They were so good! The batter was very light, the fish was flaky, and the salsas, while hot, had a lot of flavour. So yum!

Fish taco.

Fish taco.

We were still hungry, so we each had another taco. Hey, tacos are small. 🙂 Kelly had another fish one and I ordered beef al pastor, but they were out, so I switched to carnitas (shredded pork).

Carnitas (shredded pork) taco.

Carnitas (shredded pork) taco.

Our six tacos came to about 14USD for the two of us. Cheap lunch! These tacos were the real thing. ABQ is lucky to have Sharky’s!

We drove around a bit more after and then Kelly had to get to work so we returned to her place. I had already packed and loaded up the truck, so we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways around 11:30.

I saw more of ABQ this morning than I would have discovered on my own and didn’t get close at all to the sprawling brown suburbia that I always thought ABQ would be. It is a sprawling city hemmed in by mountains, Native reserves, and the Rio Grande River, and has some neighbourhoods that are real gems. Thank you so much for your warm hospitality, Kelly, Kevin, Lester, and Olive!

Horseback Riding, Safari, and Language Lessons

Well, it’s been another amazing day on Isla! I went riding for the second time and our one hour ride turned into TWO! Wow! We were taken all over Isla to the point that most of us were completely lost. Remember, Isla is not actually an island and there is a lot of ground to cover!

We started on the beach.

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Heading onto the beach for the first part of the ride. We did lots of cantering!

Love low tide on the beach.

Love low tide on the beach.

What a great surface for a canter!

What a great surface for a canter!

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. :D

As if any reminders were needed that I have the best life ever. 😀

And then we headed inland.

Heading into the coconut grove.

Heading into the coconut grove.

We saw several coati (téjón). Our guide was adamant that they are not raccoons and I look forward to telling him next week that they are in the same family as raccoons. 🙂

Fields of squash.

Fields of squash.

And then our ride turned into a safari. I wasn’t very quick with the camera, unfortunately.

We passed a turtle.

We passed a turtle.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

Mrs. (?) Turtle posed for a picture.

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw cranes and FLAMINGOS here!

I saw where mangoes come from!

Heading into the mango grove.

Heading into the mango grove.

It felt like a whole other world in there!

It felt like a whole other world in there!

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

The mangoes are just starting to come in.

We did some literal bushwhacking:

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

Heading into the bush. Our guide was ahead hacking a path with a machete!

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

These cacti looked like an alien creature.

We came to a part of Isla that was once used for playing baseball.

We emerged on a flood plain.

We emerged on a flood plain.

The remains of a horse.

The remains of a horse.

More of the alien cacti.

More of the alien cacti.

Coconut graveyard.

Coconut graveyard.

We passed a people graveyard.

The old cemetery.

The old cemetery.

And came to a new graveyard. I was riding in the back and the guide yelled out “Chica that speakay Spani, comay translate!’ (with all due respect to him and his accent!). We all joked that our rides are just a cover for language lessons!

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

The new cemetery. The folks resting here are all immediate family of our guide.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Those of us who had been to New Orleans were reminded of its graveyards.

Heading back towards the main road.

Heading back towards the main road.

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out 'Hola, gemela' (Hi, twin)!

This truck is just like mine. It once passed me on The Road and the driver yelled out ‘Hola, gemela’ (Hi, twin)!

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty flowers at the stable.

Pretty dang good value for 100 pesos, huh?

I’m not nearly as sore as I was last week at this time as my saddle and stirrups were much more comfortable. My horse was a little headstrong, did a lot of head tossing, and was uncomfortable to ride at walk and trot, but was soooo smooth at canter! I could have cantered all afternoon on him!

We’re riding again on Monday. Can’t wait!

Relocating the Hurt

There is a québécois expression that says, “changer le mal de place.” Literally, it means relocating the hurt. More figuratively, it means taking a break from a tedious routine. Having had a few tough work days, knowing that the week ahead is going to be brutal, and being blessed with easy files for today, I decided to take a long lunch break in Maz.

How wonderful it is for the city to be so close by that I can get there, meander around, have a meal, shop, and be home in just two and a half hours!

This was the first time that I went out with several stops in mind and didn’t at least glance at a map before leaving. I know where everything is now and actually getting quite good at finding the most direct route between A and B.

My first stop was the Santander bank in front of the Cathedral on Angel Flores. A few donations and an unexpected prepayment on a translation project meant that I could take out 1,000 pesos, which will go a very long way if this past month is any proof of that. I still had 200 pesos from my early January withdrawal!

From the bank, I went to Olas Altas to get sushi, but, alas, they were closed. 🙁 It was past 1:30, so I was quite surprised. I decided to instead check out a recommended burger joint, but they, too, were closed! Since I was in the Plazuela Machado area and have been craving chocolate for days, I decided to get dessert first and stopped in at the gelateria where 25 pesos got me a teeny scoop of craving busting goodness.

I then headed out towards the Mercado and decided to try lunch at Panamá’s bakery, which looks a lot like a Smitty’s restaurant or a Denny’s, a very Ameri-dian diner-style spot. I was given both a Spanish and English menu and had time to compare them.

As suspected, they were quite different, with the English menu omitting many of the Mexican dishes and adding more American dishes. The average price point on the English menu was also higher than on the Spanish one. I ordered the chicken enchiladas with creamy green sauce from the Spanish menu, hoping that they would be similar to the ones I had in Texas.

Unfortunately, no. And the Texas ones were actually much more authentic Mexican fare than Panamá’s version, which were rather bland and featured processed American cheese!

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Now, don’t get me wrong, the meal was fine. The sauce, while not super flavourful, was good and the roasted chicken filling was incredibly satisfying. Add in the huge helping of beans and I was stuffed. The meal was worth the 83 pesos I paid (plus tip), but it wasn’t one I’ll repeat.

It was getting close to two by this point, so I decided to head home by way of Ley. I really didn’t need anything, but I keep going to Ley in the hopes that they’ll have restocked an incredible all natural pineapple-coconut yoghurt I got there way back in late November or December. Today, they finally had some!

My knee was really bothering me today, so I decided to go home by Zaragoza rather than Leandro Valle, but then decided to instead meander through the small streets to create a more direct route to the embarcadero. That worked splendidly and I really enjoyed making my way through a warren of narrow cobblestone streets, so reminiscent of ancient Scottish cities, to emerge right in front of the entrance to the dock.

I spent just under 200 pesos today on public transportation, lunch, dessert, and groceries. Mexico continues to be incredibly affordable and I have succeeded in ‘changer le mal de place.’ Now, back to work. It’ll be a bit of a marathon session!

Isla Explorations

Dale came by this morning to ask if I wanted to go for a walk. She’s leaving soon (*sniff*) and wanted to make sure she has pictures of her favourite places on Isla. I was on the verge of heading out to get tortillas, cheese, and bacon, so her timing was perfect!

Before we left, she asked if I had any donations for the colonia people because she knew where to drop them off. I had two beautiful newish tops that just don’t fit right that I was happy to add to her donation pile.

Our first stop along the way was to climb one of the worst roads I have ever seen in my life. Some Americans (I think) built a house all the way at the top. It was one heck of a climb to get up there! I’m not even sure my truck could make it. But boy was the view worth it!

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The house is made of cement, which makes me think that building in Mexico might be rather inexpensive.

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The street, while in horrible shape, does have street lighting all the way up!

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I fell in love with this cute house. Doesn’t it look like something I could model with my cabin back home?!

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Next, we went to Feddy’s to drop off the donations and pick up dog food. Dale found it hard to keep stocked up on dog food when she got here, with her usual shopping place (Walmart) not easily accessible and big bags of dog food heavy to handle for the long trip home. So was delighted that Feddy has a giant bag of the food her dogs prefer from which she can fill a smaller bag and get a week or so’s worth at a time.

Here’s a good example of what I mean when I say that I couldn’t afford to eat like a Gringo in Mexico. This is a packet of turkey gravy mix that I would by for about 75 cents back home. Yes, it’s 38 pesos. OMG.

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The panga dock was next and quite quiet at midday:

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We doubled back to the City Deli and I went straight to the rear of the store to get my cheese and bacon. They sell a few kinds of cheese and I asked to see their ‘yellow cheese’, which was super cheap… and turned out to be sliced American cheese. PASS. 🙂 I bought a 33 peso hunk of Chihuahua and also 20 pesos worth of bacon. Their bacon is much better than what I’ve found at Ley and cheaper!

We then went next door so I could get five pesos worth of tortillas. Dale was amused that I tucked into them right away, but I was hungry! 🙂

After, Dale suggested that we go explore some of the streets that lead into the centre of the island and surround Stone Mountain. We found lots of dead ends.

This road reminded me of walking in residential neighbourhoods in Glasglow and Edinburgh, pedestrians only!

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Looking down to Calle Principal (the paved road):

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We passed a church:

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I like the guardian on the roof! It’s a frog!

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One lady asked what we were doing, rather aggressively, I might add (we were on a public road!) and I explained that we were just walking, have been living on Isla for three months, and that there were still places we hadn’t been to. Her attitude changed dramatically after that and she wished us a nice day.

We passed another lady, who said hi to us, reached a dead end, and decided it was time to go home, so we turned around. The same lady asked if we were lost and I repeated what I had said to the previous woman.

After, Dale mimed how she would have handled the conversation. She’s hilarious and her miming is really good! Her Spanish has really improved but people don’t understand her, which I find boggling. She was looking for a calendar at Waldo’s the other day and mimed ‘writing’ to a clerk, then said ‘fecha libro’ (date book) and listed a few days of the week and of the month. The clerk brought her to clothes pins! Whaaaat?!

It was almost 1:00 when we got in and I had been ready for lunch for an hour. I put together a salad with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, avocado, and bacon. I caught the veggie guy this morning if it’s not obvious. 🙂

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I’m a lot less nervous about eating the produce now that I got sick on non-Mexican food. I hadn’t even realised that I was a little worried until I wasn’t anymore. This does not mean I am lackadaisical about food prep. My surfaces are all sanitized and all the produce gets washed thoroughly with potable water. I miss my salad spinner, by the way.

I’m not much of a fan of iceberg lettuce and consider it an excuse to each ranch-style dressing. I obviously didn’t have any in the fridge (it’s readily available in Mexico, but, of course, expensive), so I made my own alternative. I mixed about a quarter cup of crema with garlic salt and then thinned it down with the juice of two limes, giving me enough dressing for future salads. The half avocado and two slices of bacon made this salad reasonably substantial, but I did have two tortillas with honey for dessert. 🙂