Monday Morning Shopping in Mazatl谩n

I had an early morning for some reason, awake just past 5:00 (might have to do with the fact that this was my third uninterrupted night of sleep in a row, yay!). I read for an hour then got up to do some chores, including taking the trash out. My Mexican life is no more glamourous than my Canadian one! 馃檪

Dale came by at 8:00 to pick me up so we could go run some errands in Mazatl谩n. We arrived as things were opening up, so there weren’t too many crowds and it was still cool out. Good call!

We’re both much more orientated now, so the only question as we left the panga was which road we were going to take to the Mercado, Zaragoza or Leandro Valle. The latter is a bit shorter but has big hills, so we opted for it to get some extra exercise!

Imagine having to go up these stairs to your house every day?!

Imagine having to go up these stairs to your house every day?!

Or up this spiral staircase?!

Or up this spiral staircase?!

I wanted to hit Waldo’s and the Mercado before going to Ley. Dale wanted a bank. I led her straight to the one Grant and I were directed to a couple of weeks ago. I never even noticed that it’s right across from the cathedral!

Dale didn’t like the bank because there were no English instructions in the ATM, but is glad to know there’s one closer than the HSBC she favours if she gets stuck. She had her translator, so there were no issues with her withdrawal. 馃檪

When she was done, she mentioned that she’d like to find a bakery. Lo and behold, there was one right in front of us! She sheepishly said that she wanted a pastry right then. Breakfast was already well behind me, so I was on board with her plan!

We were both awed by the rows and rows and rows of pastries, each more beautiful than the next. She went for an Oreo crumb topped doughnut and I selected a butter croissant with a drizzle of icing sugar and some sliced almonds on top. 22.50 pesos for both. Dale said her doughnut was great and my croissant was perfect for me, just enough sweet for a treat, but not enough to be sickening.

Waldo’s was just a block up and across the street, so we finished up our goodies, then headed into the store. I wanted a plastic basket for my kitchen counter into which I could store spices and found a nice one that was quite cheap, as well as a few other things for the apartment. I picked up some Stanley-brand Velcro ties for my computer cables that are something like 10CAD for 8 in Canada and only 14 pesos (1CAD) in Mexico!!!

Next was the Mercado, across the street, where I knew I was going to spend mucho dinero. I wanted to come out with two Mexican sundresses and a hat. I’d been to the Mercado twice before and knew exactly which vendor had the dresses I wanted, but I had no idea on prices.

The vendor is immediately on the right when you come in through the entrance across from Waldo’s. I made like I wasn’t sure about checking out the wares so I didn’t look like I was already determined to buy.

I picked up the dress that I wanted, a peasant style, and held it up to show Dale, whose eyes widened. She said “That’ll look good on聽 you!” The clerk brought out a screen so I could change and showed me where the mirror is.

My first thought before I even saw the dress on me was, “It fits!” I just grabbed a dress of a rack and it was exactly my size! Unbelievable! I checked it out in the mirror and gasped. I felt like a princess. The dress was so pretty and the exact shape that best fits my figure. When I was larger, styles like these felt like a costume, I just couldn’t get away with ‘girly’ clothes, but now I can.

I asked how much in Spanish and the lady told me 500 pesos. Oof. I was expecting something like that, but it was still a lot of money and I wanted two!

I asked how much for two and was told 480 pesos each. What kind of deal is that?!

I told Dale that I was going to think about it and the clerk said that she could go as low as 430 pesos for each dress if I bought two or 450 pesos for just one.

The price was getting better and I thought I might be able to get it lower, so I started discussing colour. I’d tried on a bright blue dress that I wanted (Dale said it brings out the colour in my eyes) and I pretended to waffle back and forth between the blue and the purple. “400 pesos for the purple one,” I finally said. The clerk looked aghast and said, “No! 450 pesos for one dress. You can have both for 800 but one is 450 pesos.”

I’m sure that all the Mexican haggling experts reading this are going to laugh at my timidity, but I was pretty sure I wasn’t going any lower at that point, so I agreed.

800 pesos is a huge sum of money, but I know I will wear the dresses a lot, not just on special occasions. They are made of heavy cotton and will last a long time. And perhaps most important, I feel so good in them!

My blue dress (I'm wearing the purple one and do not have a photographer handy!).

My blue dress (I’m wearing the purple one and do not have a photographer handy!).

Next, I wanted a hat. I’d shopped for hats before and haven’t been able find anybody willing to sell me one for what I wanted to pay (70 to 80 pesos) so I set my budget to 120 pesos.

One lady lured us into her shop waving hats and bags. I pointed to the hat she was holding and said I want something with a smaller brim. The next sized brim she held up was was still too big. She then pulled out the exact style of hat that I wanted and hadn’t yet seen at any other vendor!

I call it the ball cap style, because it basically has no brim in the back, but it does cover the ears. A wide brim all around is good for the back of the neck, but I’m a little hunched back and I prefer no brim back there. The hat was pretty and feminine, with a bow at the back, almost like a bonnet, and would look good with my dresses!

Unfortunately, all her hats were brightly coloured, though, and I wanted something more neutral. I pointed to a hat the colour I wanted, a light beige, and said that I wanted that hat style in that colour. And she had one! Finally, the perfect hat!

She wanted 150 pesos. I said I’d think about it. She said that I would be her first sale of the day, so 120 pesos. I countered with 100 and she thought about it then agreed. I doubt I could have gone any lower because the cheapest hat I’ve priced so far was 950 pesos, not a centavo less!

My hat.

My hat.

I was feeling pretty broke by this point, but I still needed groceries! I bought a mango (haven’t had one of those in months!) and a jicama at the market and Dale got a few things, too.

We were both ready to head to the Ley after. Back up Leandro Valle we went a couple of blocks and then a couple of blocks over to the Ley. We really are getting to know our way around!

Ley had almost everything on my list except coffee! We could only find instant. Unbelievable! Dale and I are going to Soriana or Mega or even Walmart on my next payday because we both take our coffee seriously. I looked into coffee shops that sell their own and they’re all in the Golden Zone and a million miles away. I guess Mexico exports all its coffee and Mexicans aren’t coffee snobs… I just opened up a bag I bought in the States that should last me a couple of weeks, but my coffee situation is going to get dire fast!

I came out of Ley after spending about 330 pesos. The most expensive thing I bought was the cheese, about 110 pesos worth (which would be about 30CAD worth back home…). I also bought Kikkoman soy sauce. Last time I bought some in Canada, I paid something like $10 for two on sale. I paid 450 pesos for one bottle here. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but I should stock up on soy sauce in Mexico before going home!

Our shopping done, Dale and I arranged all our bags to make them more comfortable to carry and decided that we could walk rather than take a pulmon铆a to the panga.

We were just at the corner of Leandro Valle and Emilio Barrag谩n when a tope (speed bump) that was the exact colour as the pavement and my shoes attacked me! I went down pretty hard, but managed to catch myself enough that I didn’t get my full weight on my knees. I scraped my right shin pretty badly but didn’t even skin the palms of my hands. My shopping was fine. I’m no longer the gal who hit a palm tree with her truck her first night here, but now the girl who tripped on a tope!

I was just glad I fell on a street, not while getting into the panga! I had no trouble getting myself and my shopping into the boat gracefully, thank goodness!

By the time Dale and I got back to Isla, it wasn’t even 11:00 a.m.! We were surprised! It was getting HOT and we were ready to get home. I had work to do, but, surprise, the power and internet at home were out for a few hours because of work being done to the house. The internet caf茅s don’t have power outlets, so forget working from there. Thankfully, my deadlines aren’t too pressing and I can make up the work later.

Lunch was guacamole and chips, quick and easy. I bought a different kind of avocado today, much bigger than that Haas ones, with a smooth light green skin and more expensive than the Haas variety. It wasn’t great, more water than creamy. It was fine with lots of onions, salt, and lime juice (forgot the jalape帽os!), but I’m glad I only got the one.

Large smooth skinned avocado.

Large smooth skinned avocado.

The flesh and pit are lighter and the flesh is watery.

The flesh and pit are lighter and the flesh is watery.

Exploring Isla

I’m rather ashamed to admit that I haven’t done much exploration since I got to Isla a little over a month ago. I’ve pretty much walked to the same places and haven’t gone out of my way to follow roads to their end. Isla is quite large and I’ve only been to a small fraction of it. Well, until today.

Tired of all the noise and not being able to get any work done, I took off mid-afternoon to explore a larger swath of Isla, especially the part that is, for lack of a more PC term, slums. I didn’t find that nearly as shocking as Dale did. There are farm yards in southern SK that look worse… The area had a bit of garbage and was obviously poor, but I could see pride of ownership. There were lots of little shops (abbarotes) and the few people I saw were very friendly and did not object to my camera.

First, here’s a non-detailed map of Isla to give you a bit of an idea of where things are. I’ve included Goat Island on that because exploration of that part of Isla is happening on Saturday with Dale! As you can see, Isla is actually a peninsula.

The area north of the grocery store is the 'slum' part of Isla.

The area north of the grocery store is the ‘slum’ part of Isla.

I can't believe I've never noticed this hardware store right across from the tortilla place!

I can’t believe I’ve never noticed this hardware store right across from the tortilla place!

I'm not convinced I would have bought sushi from this cart... :)

I’m not convinced I would have bought sushi from this cart… 馃檪

Another basketball court! This one's by the school. And I found the school.

Another basketball court! This one’s by the school. And I found the school.

I don't know if this beauty parlour is still in business...

I don’t know if this beauty parlour is still in business…

School zone, 5KPH speed limit. I can walk faster than that!

School zone, 5KPH speed limit. I can walk faster than that!

AH HA! The medical clinic!

AH HA! The medical clinic!

So cute!

So cute!

This is another beauty parlour that Dale pointed out to me. It's the Miranda. :) I'm going to ask how much for a manicure.

This is another beauty parlour that Dale pointed out to me. It’s the Miranda. 馃檪 I’m going to ask how much for a manicure.

This store doesn't look like much, huh? It's pretty much Ali Baba's cave, carrying quite a few things the City Deli doesn't.

This store doesn’t look like much, huh? It’s pretty much Ali Baba’s cave, carrying quite a few things the City Deli doesn’t.

There's a TelCel store (of sorts) on Isla! The sign says that they sell equipment, parts, and SIM cards; do repairs; sell refills, and more!

There’s a TelCel store (of sorts) on Isla! The sign says that they sell equipment, parts, and SIM cards; do repairs; sell refills, and more!

Yet another basketball court, firmly in the 'slum.'

Yet another basketball court, firmly in the ‘slum.’

This must have been a lovely house once upon a time!

This must have been a lovely house once upon a time!

There were four main types of buildings in the 'slum'. The worst, to me, were the ruins of cement construction. Next, the corrugated metal construction. Then cement houses in poor condition. Finally, beautiful houses that would have been into 'my part' of Isla.

There were four main types of buildings in the ‘slum’. The worst, to me, were the ruins of cement construction. Next, the corrugated metal construction. Then cement houses in poor condition. Finally, beautiful houses that would have fit into ‘my part’ of Isla.

Why is this gorgeous place sitting here without a roof?

Why is this gorgeous place sitting here without a roof?

Lovely murals inside.

Lovely murals inside.

This sign says that there is a university campus way at the end of the slum. Really? I didn't get that far to confirm.

This sign says that there is a university campus way at the end of the slum. Really? I didn’t get that far to confirm.

Lots of houses and land for sale in this part of Isla. It seems to be undergoing a bit of a gentrification in the first bit closer to the other half of Isla.

Lots of houses and land for sale in this part of Isla. It seems to be undergoing a bit of a gentrification in the first bit closer to the other half of Isla.

I love the colour of this house!

I love the colour of this house!

I saw a lot of political campaign stuff painted onto walls.

I saw a lot of political campaign stuff painted onto walls.

There are a few buildings on Isla marked as churches, but this is the only one I've seen that looks like a 'proper' church.

There are a few buildings on Isla marked as churches, but this is the only one I’ve seen that looks like a ‘proper’ church.

This is a big open area by the City Deli where community events are held.

This is a big open area by the City Deli where community events are held.

I walked around the big open area and thought I came to a dead end, but found this narrow alley to squeeze through. I landed right in the dining area of a restaurant and was thankfully ignored!

I walked around the big open area and thought I came to a dead end, but found this narrow alley to squeeze through. I landed right in the dining area of a restaurant and was thankfully ignored!

The butcher shop.

The butcher shop.

Walking Mazatl谩n’s Malec贸n

I didn’t have anything pressing to do today, so I decided to hop over to Maz and walk a little of its famous malec贸n (oceanside boardwalk). I headed out around 10:00 after a Skype call with my mother.

The plan was to walk until I was ready to drop and then take a pulmon铆a back to the panga. This map roughly illustrates the route that I took, a total of about 10KM (6.21 miles).

walk

I’m really glad that I did this route and then traced it because it’s really helping me get orientated. Maz’s roads run diagonally to the compass points. I am definitely getting to know my way around to a point, but not the most direct routes.

From the panga, I headed to Olas Altas Boulevard the way that I knew to go, through the Mercado and by the cathedral. I, of course, stopped for ice cream! 馃檪

The vendor offered me strawberry and vanilla. I said that strawberry was fine and did he have prune? Yup. For my third flavour, I said I wanted more fruit, not vanilla, and he proposed mandarin. Great! I asked for the prune on the bottom and after some reflection and nearly going for the strawberry next, he decided that the mandarin should be in the middle. Gosh I love that stuff, more like sorbet than ice cream, and not too sweet. At 20 pesos, it’s an affordable treat!

I did have another reason to go this way, wanting to stop into a bookstore on Constituci贸n between Plaza Machado and Olas Altas, hoping to find a verb conjugation book. The clerk said they didn’t have any and wasn’t keen on telling me where else in the city I might find one.

From there, it was a few blocks to the Malec贸n. I walked till I was ready to drop, taking photos of interesting things. There were a few vendors near Olas Altas, but there soon really wasn’t much, to my surprise, just endless miles of beachfront walking with some beachside seafood restaurants.

I made it all the way to the touristy ‘Golden Zone.’ I was hungry by this point, but the only open restaurants I found were Gringo-oriented ones that were very pricey. Anything that would appeal more to locals opened later since Mexicans eat a late lunch. I wasn’t that keen on eating out, so I flagged down a pulmon铆a to take me back to the panga.

There were tons of pulmon铆as on that boulevard and many had stopped for me, so I figured that now that I wanted one, they’d be elusive. Nope! I got one in under a minute (so much easier than hailing a cab on Broadway in Manhattan!).

I’d done my research and knew two things. 1) Get the price before getting in. 2) The ride shouldn’t cost more than 60 pesos and I should expect, as a tourist, to be quoted 70 or more and then have to bargain.

So I asked how much to get to the panga, specifying the north one off of Emilio Barrag谩n, and was told 50 pesos! Perfect, no bargaining required! We had a brief chat before it got too noisy and then the driver played loud music. He had a much more direct route back to the panga, but it was still quite a drive. That was a lot of walking!

Back on the Isla side, I picked up some tortillas and had three before I even got home. 馃檪

The whole trip cost me less than 7CAD and I got some exercise and to see new things. It was really nice to go to Maz just to go, with no plans to shop or eat out or spend much money.

First steps on the Malec贸n. :)

First steps on the Malec贸n. 馃檪

I love the bright colours of the buildings here.

I love the bright colours of the buildings here.

And the tilework!

And the tilework!

More gorgeous tiles!

More gorgeous tiles!

Homes literally carved into the cliffs.

Homes literally carved into the cliffs.

 And a bridge.

And a bridge.

The devil's cave.

The devil’s cave.

This part of the walk is dedicated to Sri Chinmoy, an Indian spiritual leader. This is the first time I've heard of him outside of Ottawa.

This part of the walk is dedicated to Sri Chinmoy, an Indian spiritual leader. This is the first time I’ve heard of him outside of Ottawa.

Dolphin statues.

Dolphin statues.

The fancy resorts off in the distance.

The fancy resorts off in the distance.

A poem is born in your smile.

A poem is born in your smile.

Birds of pray of some kind.

Birds of pray of some kind.

This one's apparently a hermit.

This one’s apparently a hermit.

The world needs people who love what they do.

The world needs people who love what they do.

This ad made me laugh. This dog is wondering how he can teach humans to keep Maz clean!

This ad made me laugh. This dog is wondering how he can teach humans to keep Maz clean!

The marine science faculty of the Sinaloa Autonomous University.

The marine science faculty of the Sinaloa Autonomous University.

IMGP0329

The resorts are getting closer!

The resorts are getting closer!

Lots of fishing boats (and a really unpleasant smell).

Lots of fishing boats (and a really unpleasant smell).

No Jack Sparrow in sight.

No Jack Sparrow in sight.

The verb molestar means to disturb, not to molest!

The verb molestar means to disturb, not to molest!

Antonio Haas theatre.

Antonio Haas theatre.

First sign I've seen for the Golden Zone.

First sign I’ve seen for the Golden Zone.

The famous fisherman's monument.

The famous fisherman’s monument.

It features the lighthouse, which is on my must visit list.

It features the lighthouse, which is on my must visit list.

I thought Banjercitos are only at the border!

I thought Banjercitos are only at the border!

I was really hoping to find the famous pulmon铆a monument!

I was really hoping to find the famous pulmon铆a monument!

They're not golf karts, but sure look like them!

They’re not golf karts, but sure look like them!

The resorts are getting REALLY close.

The resorts are getting REALLY close.

Maz has a casino.

Maz has a casino.

Funny translation

Funny translation

Maz bus depot thataway. And then, in tiny letters, as an afterthought, please fasten your seatbelts.

Maz bus depot thataway. And then, in tiny letters, as an afterthought, please fasten your seatbelts.

Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling.

Melancholy is incompatible with bicycling.

Sitting in the pulmon铆a.

Sitting in the pulmon铆a.

View from the pulmon铆a.

View from the pulmon铆a.

Pelican on the Maz side.

Pelican on the Maz side.

More pelicans on the Maz side.

More pelicans on the Maz side.

Taking the Village Panga

I really needed a day off today and knew that I’d most likely spend it at my computer surfing aimlessly if I stayed home. Even though I didn’t have many pesos left for a shopping trip to Maz, I decided to head over there anyway to get a better lay of the land and figure out where the Ley grocery store is.

Rather than taking the beach panga like I did last time, I took the one from the village. This panga is 16 pesos round trip for residents, just a little less than half of the 30 peso fare for the beach panga. For this one, you pay on both sides, so 8 pesos each time, and you don’t have to worry about losing your return ticket.

This panga drops you off at the docks downtown. It’s actually not that much farther from the historical district than is the beach panga, but it’s closer by a hair to the Ley and the big mercado.

I’d printed out a map showing the location of the Ley, but I didn’t know where I was going to land and my map wasn’t detailed enough for me to figure out where I was. I tried my phone. Google Maps could find the Ley, but could not route me there. Apple Maps (Siri) knew exactly where I was, but couldn’t find the Ley.

I walked around in circles (literally) for a full hour and found the street the Ley was supposed to be on, but I couldn’t find the store. This was fun for the first 45 minutes, then, it wasn’t and I spent the last 15 minutes trying to locate the cathedral, my only real landmark. I really didn’t have enough pesos for a shop and lunch, so I decided that I’d try again next week now that I have a starting point on the Maz side (Pemex 1760).

And, yes, I could have taken a pulmonia to get there, but that didn’t seem like a good use of today’s tight budget. Asking for directions would have also not helped seeing as I doubt I could have followed them.

Despite all that frustration, I did have one bright moment when I found myself standing outside the Pacifico beer brewery! (Why am I not drinking a beer right now? BRB!)

Once I could see the cathedral, finding the mercado was easy. I went in to look for avocados. Everyone had some and there didn’t seem to be much difference in product quality, so I picked a vendor at random and pointed to the avocados, which I could not reach.

She picked one up and said, ‘ripe.’ I didn’t want super ripe ones because I want to have some for a few days, so I shook my head, trying to figure out how to say that I wanted them firmer. I settled on English and said, ‘harder.’

She frowned and then comprehension dawned. ‘Oh, eat tomorrow!’ She touched a few and found one that was nice and firm. I asked for one more, plus the ripe one. Total cost for all three, 20 pesos, which was a bit shocking. I’ve paid less in Assiniboia for good avocados in the dead of winter by watching the specials!

From the mercado, I wanted to go to Waldo’s, the Mexican version of a dollar store, to get a few things for my casita. I knew there was one right there by the mercado on the way to the cathedral. So I circled around the mercado until I saw a stand I recognized and which told me I had to take the next left and the Waldo’s would be across the street.

The Waldo’s was exactly like a dollar store and felt very familiar. I found all but one thing on my list. I picked up a small plastic wastebasket to use as a utensil crock in the kitchen, a square flower pot to hold bathroom items, dish cloths and scrubby pads for the kitchen, a colander, plastic storage containers for leftovers, and plastic wrap. The only thing I couldn’t find was a cheese grater. Total cost was 107 pesos. Plastic wrap is called ‘meat film’, by the way…

It was coming onto 1:00 by this point and I was ravenous, so I headed off to the sushi place, the closest one to the mercado that I knew I could find on my own since it’s right on the water and next to where I had the nachos with Dale.

I knew that it would be a bit of a walk, so I decided to see if the fruit ice cream stand was open today. Yes! There was no guava today, so I got strawberry and ciruela, which is a new word I learned earlier this week, in a cup. I was asked what I wanted for a third flavour (I can get three flavours at once?!) and asked for a surprise, which turned out to be walnut or pecan.

Like the vanilla, the nut was more like real ice cream and quite rich with big pieces of nuts. Very lovely in a small quantity.

As far as I knew, ciruela is plum, so I was a bit surprised to discover to bite into prune ice cream.聽 I would have expected them to say ciruela seca, or something along those lines, the way that you’d say dried plum in French. At any rate, I absolutely adore prunes and am not so nuts about fresh plums, so this was a wonderful surprise! I could have had a whole cup of just the prune flavour!

Strawberry was on the bottom and exactly as expected, very fresh and sweet and nummy!

I meandered my way down to the water front and turned left on Olas Altas to get to Akita Sushi. I perused the wall menu and decided that while it didn’t look great, it was fine, so I agreed to sit down with a menu.

Every single one of their rolls comes with Philadelphia (cream cheese), which I absolutely abhor in sushi. It’s not just me being a snob, I simply don’t find that the greasy creamy texture that is so great on bagels works that well with vinegared rice. I decided to order three pieces of octopus nigiri from their starter menu (40 pesos!) and a tuna roll if I could get it without Philadelphia, otherwise I’d just do the nigiri and get something else somewhere else. Thankfully, there was no problem with skipping the cheese.

The meal was quite good except for one key ingredient: the soy sauce. I have no idea if that’s what passes for soy sauce in Mexico, but it was very citrusy, with none of the salty umami flavour that is such an integral part of what makes sushi so delicious.

Because of this, the meal was probably a 5 out of 10. It would have been a 7 or an 8 with Kikkoman soy sauce. The rice was surprisingly bland and they were skimpy with the octopus and tuna, but the fish and seafood were extremely fresh and the presentation beautiful. With the tip, lunch came to 125 pesos, about ten bucks. Totally worth it!

I’m going to try at least one other sushi place to get a point of comparison, but I’d definitely come back to Akita with my own bottle of soy sauce!

I was pretty beat by this point and decided to head home. Yes, I already had ice cream before lunch, but I knew I was going to pass a gelataria and I was still peckish. 馃檪 I went in and got a cup of gelato for 20 pesos. I saw one flavour that I suspected would be chocolate hazelnut and the lady said it was ‘Ferrero’, which confirmed it. Yum! Ice cream portions in Mexico have so far been very small, closer to a child’s size in Canada or the US, which is absolutely perfect for me.

Returning to the panga was easy from the gelataria, which is just by the Plaza Machado. Apple Maps knew where I was and could find the Pemex, so I had no trouble making my way through the warren of streets to emerge on Emilio Barrag谩n, and then it was a short walk past the docks and the naval base to the panga.

I went to the ticket booth and asked for residente ticket. The woman literally sneered at me and said suspiciously, ‘Residente?’ I held up my bag of shopping and said that I rent a house on Isla. She rolled her eyes and accepted my 8 pesos. Wow. I don’t know what the rules are, but I think that renting a house in the village for the winter should qualify me for the resident rate, especially if folks staying just for a month or two in the RV park get said rate!

I enjoyed the bumpy ride home and stopped off at the tortilla factory to get a fresh batch. I used my thumb and index finger to show the size of the stack I wanted and paid just 5 pesos for it.

Isla panga dock.

Isla panga dock.

Maz dock in the distance.

Maz dock in the distance.

The village panga has a nice handhold to get on.

The village panga has a nice handhold to get on.

Pelican on a panga.

Pelican on a panga.

I haven't been to this part of Isla yet.

I haven’t been to this part of Isla yet.

This is another panga stop for 'colonia', which I understand is the slums...

This is another panga stop for ‘colonia’, which I understand is the slums…

Heading to Maz!

Heading to Maz!

Maz getting closer.

Maz getting closer.

Pacifico brewery!

Pacifico brewery!

Maz panga dock entrance.

Maz panga dock entrance.

Pemex 1760 is a good landmark on the Maz side to find the panga.

Pemex 1760 is a good landmark on the Maz side to find the panga.

I remember turning here in my truck! I can't believe it was about 1.5 hours (not counting stops) to get to Isla from here when I made it in less than 20 minutes on foot and panga!

I remember turning here in my truck! I can’t believe it was about 1.5 hours (not counting stops) to get to Isla from here when I made it in less than 20 minutes on foot and panga!

Pacifico brewery!

Pacifico brewery!

After a very frustrating hour of walking around in circles, a familiar landmark at last! See the cathedral spires in the distance?

After a very frustrating hour of walking around in circles, a familiar landmark at last! See the cathedral spires in the distance?

Found him! (ha ha ha ha ha I crack myself up sometimes)

Found him! (ha ha ha ha ha I crack myself up sometimes)

I have this exact colander, only in pink, at Haven! I didn't buy this one because the holes are too big for rinsing rice, but the find amused me.

I have this exact colander, only in pink, at Haven! I didn’t buy this one because the holes are too big for rinsing rice, but the find amused me.

I came out feeling like I bought the whole store. :)

I came out feeling like I bought the whole store. 馃檪

Strawberry, prune, and nut ice creams.

Strawberry, prune, and nut ice creams.

Octopus nigiri. Yuuuuuum. I was told I could mix it up and have my choice of four different kinds of seafood (forget what else), but I just wanted pulpo!

Octopus nigiri. Yuuuuuum. I was told I could mix it up and have my choice of four different kinds of seafood (forget what else), but I just wanted pulpo!

This is NOT soy sauce. Not sure what it is. I just took a picture because I was so shocked by the viscous texture and wanted to remember my reaction. :)

This is NOT soy sauce. Not sure what it is. I just took a picture because I was so shocked by the viscous texture and wanted to remember my reaction. 馃檪

Tuna roll, very light on the tuna. The inside is a bit like a California role, with shrimp, avocado, and cucumber (pepino).

Tuna roll, very light on the tuna. The inside is a bit like a California role, with shrimp, avocado, and cucumber (pepino).

Hazelnut and chocolate gelato.

Hazelnut and chocolate gelato.

Part of my Waldo haul. Yes, I got another pink colander. :D (Bonus shot of my stack of tortillas behind the 'meat wrap.'

Part of my Waldo haul. Yes, I got another pink colander. 馃榾 (Bonus shot of my stack of tortillas behind the ‘meat wrap.’

This little waste basket will make a decent utensil crock, although it is a little tippy.

This little waste basket will make a decent utensil crock, although it is a little tippy.

The flower pot is perfect for the bathroom!

The flower pot is perfect for the bathroom!

I only have about 80 pesos left to get me through to a PayPal deposit I initiated on Friday, so I decided not to get a chicken today even though I was really tempted to for dinner. I might get one tomorrow.

But add in 10 pesos for a bottle of water tomorrow and 8 pesos for a trip back to Maz early in the week to get an ATM, that would leave me pretty flat broke if the PayPal deposit is delayed (which they tend to be when I’m eager for them!). So I’m likely to skip chicken this week. 馃檨

I have to pay a hefty sum for a withdrawal, so it didn’t make sense to get cash today with what I had in the bank. I’ll make a decent sized withdrawal next week, then go back and get the rent the following week after I get the balance of my payments for December.

I am absolutely thrilled with how far I was able to stretch my pesos this month! I know that 80 pesos (6.50CAD/5.75USD really doesn’t sound like much to get me through up to a week, but I am not concerned in the least! I’ve got plenty of food and know that I can get, at minimum, a bottle of water, a block of cheese, a beer or two (at the grocery store), and another stack of tortillas with that and still have enough change left to take the panga to Maz.

It was a bit more of a trek to Maz than I thought it would be, but I think that once I figure out the shortest route between the panga and the Ley and mercado, it’ll feel much closer. Just based on the trip home, it looks like it’ll be just about the same amount of time that it takes me to go to Assiniboia, only I get exercise!

I’m really enjoying my life here and feel secure and comfortable both on Isla and walking around Maz. Now that the budget is loosening up, I suspect I’ll be in Maz more often. I’d sure like to find a movie theatre with afternoon showings (being optimistic?) and there are a few more museums I’d like to tour.

Loud early mornings withstanding, I remain absolutely thrilled with my choice of destination for this winter and continue to be in awe of the fact that I am in Mexico!

Visiting Mazatl谩n’s Centro Hist贸rico

Before I get started about my day, I want to show off my new office space. I managed to get the legs off the table I’ve been using so I could relocate it to the back room and finally use the apartment as I intended to!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can't get them open, bars. :D

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can’t get them open, bars. 馃榾

The table is working great as a desk, to my surprise. A chair is a much more pressing need and I probably won’t bother getting another surface! Tonight, I will finish the set up by adding my printer and storing supplies on the copious shelves in the closet.

Now, on to the main event! After getting up super early this morning to finish today’s work project, I met up with Dale at 9:00. We walked across the beach to get to the south dock, commonly known as the beach panga, to go visit Maz’s historical district.

The panga is a very short trip, less than five minutes. This panga is 30 pesos. The northern, or village, one is, I believe, 16 pesos for residents. Oh, and this is round trip! You pay on the Maz side. Don’t lose your ticket!

Once in Maz, you can walk about a mile to the historic district or take a pulmon铆a (open air taxi). Dale and I are walkers, so we did the whole day on foot. She’d been a couple of times and was a good guide.

My first impression upon landing was just how clean and well maintained everything was, not what I expected to be honest. I spotted a sushi restaurant minutes from the panga which means… I CAN WALK TO A SUSHI RESTAURANT. OMG!!!!!!

You can tell when you get to the historical district as it’s all beautiful colourful old buildings and very tight streets, not unlike New Orleans’ French Quarter. Off in the distance, I could see the bright yellow cathedral that told me that I really was in Maz!

Being a Sunday morning, it was very quiet and most businesses were closed, a nice introduction to this part of the city. Dale just had me walk up and down streets until I noticed the archeological museum, free for all on Sundays!

We went in and spent, oh, a half hour or so. It is a small museum, but has tons of history about the area and is very well laid out. I learned a lot. There are some English translations, but rudimentary Spanish will help you get more out of it. I want to go back on my own another Sunday to read through everything.

Dale then led me to the water to see part of the Malecon and to get a good view of Ice Box Hill. She then showed me the HSBC bank she was told is one of the more reliable ATMs in the city.

It was just past 11:00 by this point and I was ready for lunch since I’d had an early breakfast. Dale had had a big breakfast and wasn’t going to be particularly hungry again today, so she was happy to head to a bar/restaurant she’d been to a few times and have a beer whenever I was ready.

She directed me back to the waterfront and the little restaurant with tables on the sidewalk. We ordered beer and were given breakfast menus, LOL! I asked at what time the lunch menu started and was told it was just about that time. Minutes later, we got the lunch menus. Everything looked good and prices were reasonable. Beer was 5 pesos less than at Carmelita’s on Isla.

I looked through the offerings and Dale had mentioned at least twice by that point that she’d enjoyed the nachos there and would be interested in nibbling on some (not in a hint, hint sort of way, more of in an I was actively listening manner). That sounded good to me and even though she is sort of vegetarian, she’s off the wagon this winter and was okay with ordering nachos with chorizo (sausage) on them (as well as beans and chihuahua cheese). Our beers came with chips and salsa, so that with the nachos made a filling lunch for me and a good snack for Dale.

The bill didn’t make sense, though, 210 pesos. We were both sure the nachos were 85 pesos and that we’d been charged twice for them. My first instinct was to just swallow the 42.5 pesos each. Then I told myself that I have enough language to ask for the bill to be explained to me, dangnabit!

So I flagged down the server and said that I didn’t understand the bill because we only had one order of nachos. The server immediately agreed that there was an error and ran off to fix it, apologizing profusely, and returning with a new bill that had SORRY written on it. The new bill was just 125 pesos and I added 15 pesos for the tip, making lunch, including beer, just 70 pesos each!

We both wanted ice cream after that and started keeping our eyes peeled for helado signs when I noticed a guy at a cart serving something that looked like ice cream. I asked Dale what she thought and a Mexican couple that spoke good English explained that it was a Maz-specific hand churned fruit ice cream. They told us what the flavours were and recommended guava. That’s what I ordered and the guy asked if I only wanted guava. I asked for another flavour and that it could be a surprise. The other flavour he picked was vanilla.

Dale unintentionally got the exact same thing! We were both really impressed by how light and easy on the tongue the guava was. The vanilla was creamier and closer to real ice cream. Our small portions were exactly the right size for me and just 20 pesos. Very yum!

As we ate, Dale guided us to the very impressive cathedral, already decked out for Christmas. It was, oh, about 1:00 by this point and we weren’t quite done, so she proposed we walk a couple more blocks to the big mercado.

WOW, what an experience! This part of town was BUSY and a lot closer to my border town experiences. I was looking for a hat but the prices were higher than I was willing to pay so I gave up on that. I did find a lentil seller and bought enough for four or five meals for NINE pesos. 75 cents CAD! Dale was surprised to see me buy those and be so happy about them. She eats them, but does not cook and would have no idea what to do with them. I lived off lentils as a student and they will be a welcome protein source!

We were both pretty cooked and done by this point, so we headed back to the dock, stopping at a pharmacy so Dale could get a few things now that she had a translator. She also had me help her buy a few things in the mercado. I have apparently earned my cheese! 馃檪

It was so neat to head HOME from Maz while traffic was going in the opposite direction, coming from Isla back to the city on a Sunday afternoon.

Our next trip across the bay will be on the village panga to find the Ley grocery stores. More adventures forthcoming, but, first, mucho trabajo (work) ahead for a couple of days! 馃檪

My whole day to that point cost me 140 pesos. That’s the panga, lunch (with beer!), ice cream, lentils, and some hand soap for my bathroom!

Now, pictures… and more details. 馃檪

Looking towards Maz.

Looking towards Maz.

One of these is Goat Island.

One of these is Goat Island.

The sea is the temple of life.

The sea is the temple of life.

You walk up this 'path' to get to the panga.

You walk up this ‘path’ to get to the panga.

Dock.

Dock.

On the panga!

On the panga!

Approaching Maz.

Approaching Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

pelicans

pelicans

Ticket, good for a round trip.

Ticket, good for a round trip.

You walk down this road until you see...

You walk down this road until you see…

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

Pemex refinery station.

Pemex refinery station.

Just follow the blue line.

Just follow the blue line.

If you get loss, you're not paying attention.

If you get loss, you’re not paying attention.

Don't miss your turn!

Don’t miss your turn!

Such clean streets.

Such clean streets.

Love the building colours.

Love the building colours.

Pretty flowers.

Pretty flowers.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, 'hermosas endas'. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, ‘hermosas endas’. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

SUSHI!

SUSHI!

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the theatre/opera house

the theatre/opera house

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it's a microfiber that breathes and doesn't wrinkle

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it’s a microfiber that breathes and doesn’t wrinkle

Plaza Machado

Plaza Machado

more sushi!

more sushi!

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

archeological museum

archeological museum

bones placed in a foetal position

bones placed in a foetal position

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giving birth

giving birth

beautiful pottery

beautiful pottery

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

more bones in a funerary thing

more bones in a funerary thing

alabaster

alabaster

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

PUSH

PUSH

PULL

PULL

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

remains of the old tramway system

remains of the old tramway system

beautiful

beautiful

I want to go to the art museum one day.

I want to go to the art museum one day.

on the Malecon

on the Malecon

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Ice Box Hill

Ice Box Hill

public pay phone

public pay phone

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Motorcycle ramp!

Motorcycle ramp!

at the base of Ice Box Hill

at the base of Ice Box Hill

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these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it's EVERYWHERE.

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it’s EVERYWHERE.

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Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

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Decaying building.

Decaying building.

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. :)

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. 馃檪

reinforcement inside the derelict building

reinforcement inside the derelict building

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Yummy nachos!

Yummy nachos!

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interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

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scooping out ice cream

scooping out ice cream

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

Maz cathedral!

Maz cathedral!

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Inside the mercado

Inside the mercado

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more sushi! :)

more sushi! 馃檪

here's our ice cream guy again

here’s our ice cream guy again

towers on Ice Box Hill

towers on Ice Box Hill

back at the theatre

back at the theatre

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

beautiful theatre ceiling

beautiful theatre ceiling

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French's, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don't even have to look for it! :D

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French’s, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don’t even have to look for it! 馃榾