El Faro de Mazatl谩n (the Lighthouse)

Well, I got my exercise in today. Here’s a rough overview of the bit of walking I did, which does not highlight the fact that the trip included climbing 150m (492 feet), including 339 steps.

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Dale and I had wanted to climb El Faro (the lighthouse) since we first heard about it. She did it with a group of friends recently and was keen to show me how to get there. We waited this long to make sure we were in decent enough shape as it’s quite a hike up, never mind actually walking to the start of the trek and then back again. I’ve been walking the beach daily for weeks and have start running again, just two or three kilometres three times a week. So that in combination with how well I did hiking in Utah, I knew the Faro wasn’t going to be that much of a challenge.

I met Dale on the beach at 8:00 this morning and we walked to the beach panga. I only paid one way since I had errands to run downtown that would bring me closer to the village panga for the trip home.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Doesn't the lighthouse look imposing?

Doesn’t the lighthouse look imposing?

From the Maz side, it was a pretty quick walk by the docks to get to the start of the lighthouse trail. The streets were very busy and there weren’t really any sidewalks, so we had to watch where we were going. I found the start of the bus route that terminates in the Golden Zone.

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You'd work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You’d work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

The lighthouse trail starts of gently with an ascent along a rutty path. It then becomes challenging when you reach the first of the 339 steps. This is the only way to get to the Faro, on foot. It’s an incredible amount of work to get there if the point isn’t to get exercise. On the way down, we passed painters going up and they looked in pain, one carrying a huge bucket of paint, another the ladder, another the miscellaneous equipment!

Access to the Faro. Don't let it fool you, pedestrians only!

Access to the Faro. Don’t let the entrance fool you, pedestrians only!

The path gets rough very fast.

The path gets rough very fast.

I was in fine shape for the climb, but stairs are worse than slopes and my knee was not happy, creaking and shifting and swelling the more I progressed. I made sure to only step up with the left knee.

We paused periodically to take in the amazing view and take pictures, so we got to the top in about 20 minutes. There, you can compare your time to statistics to see if you are an elite, expert, sportive, excursionist, or recreational user of the trail. Even if we had done it without pauses, I’m pretty sure we could not have done better than the excursionist rating (11 to 20 mins)! The elites are the ones who run the trail.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I'm not sure as it's attached to the university.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I’m not sure as it’s attached to the university.

Looking out to Isla.

Looking out to Isla.

Goat Island.

Goat Island.

Funny cactus.

Funny cactus.

View of the docks.

View of the docks.

Starting the stairs.

Starting the stairs.

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

150 steps done!

150 steps done!

Lots more steps to go...

Lots more steps to go…

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. :)

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. 馃檪

We made it!

We made it!

The view from the top of the world’s tallest natural lighthouse was amazing! I could see all of Maz and beyond laid out below me. It was a fantastic way to really get a lay of the land. Dale and I couldn’t stop pointing out landmarks, from the hotels on Isla to the cathedral to the resorts in the Golden Zone. She was amused that the first thing I spotted was the Pacifico Brewery. 馃檪

Looks like the Isla police station!

Looks like the Isla police station!

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

I was there!

I was there!

Really, I was there! :)

Really, I was there! 馃檪

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

All of Maz laid out below us.

All of Maz laid out below us.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third to the left.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third right in the middle.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I was dressed for that.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I wasn’t dressed for that.

We eventually headed down and walked to Paseo del Centenario, which took us to Olas Altas, because Dale had finally found the Looney Bean coffee house and wanted to show it to me since I’m almost out of coffee. I can now say I’ve walked just about the entire Malec贸n!

First time I've seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

First time I’ve seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Castle on a hill.

Castle on a hill.

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Crashing waves.

Crashing waves.

I liked the look of this building.

I liked the look of this building.

Sweet viewing platform.

Sweet viewing platform.

More waves.

More waves.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Their address plaque says 'No number.'

Their address plaque says ‘No number.’

Icebox Hill.

Icebox Hill.

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malec贸n.

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malec贸n.

Official start of the Malec贸n at this end.

Official start of the Malec贸n at this end.

I've now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malec贸n.

I’ve now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malec贸n.

When we got to the Looney Bean, much forehead smacking occurred. I’ve been by it dozens of time, but when it’s been closed! You can’t see the sign unless you are on the Malec贸n.

The Looney Bean at last!

The Looney Bean at last!

My hope was that the Looney Bean would have coffee beans as it is a much more convenient location than Rico’s. They do! They don’t have nearly the choice (only ‘house blend’ and Chiapas) and they are more expensive, but since I save the 20-peso round trip bus ride, it’s a better deal.

One pound of Chiapas, their strongest coffee, was 120 pesos. I bought a half pound and the cost was 70 pesos. So a pound is a better deal. It takes me about three weeks to get through half a pound, so I prefer to pay a bit more and have fresh coffee. I had them coarse grind it for me. The grinds smell divine, so I’m optimistic I will like it as much as I did the Veracruz!

Because we were so hot and sticky, neither one of us was in the mood for having a coffee there (!). I suggested we head to Panam谩’s bakery because I honestly thought I was going to faint from low blood sugar (yes, I had breakfast before the climb. I’ll have more about that in a later post). There, I got one of their ham, cheese, and jalape帽o sandwiches and a pineapple strudel thing for 24 pesos total, a cheap and yummy lunch!

After, Dale went to the HSBC bank. We then agreed to split up as she was ready to go home and wanted to take the beach panga while I wanted to go to Waldo’s and possibly Ley’s, which put me at the village panga.

I wasn’t 100% sure where Waldo’s was from the HSBC, but I knew the general direction and got there without any detours whatsoever. I’ve definitely got the lay of the land! Waldo’s had what I wanted, inexpensive laundry detergent, so I was good to go. I was not tempted to buy any groceries (future post again), so I began the long schlep down (and up and down and up and down) Leandro Valle to Emilio Barrag谩n to the panga to Isla to home. I was exhausted when I got home, much more so than I would have normally been after such an excurison (future post again).

Dale is leaving Isla next week and moving to the Golden Zone. I will miss my friend. I know I will still go out and do things and it’s not like we won’t meet up again, but it’s not the same. For one thing, going out in the evenings will be more expensive since I’ll have to pay for the entire pulmon铆a rides. But her new RV park is right on the bus line, so I know I can go visit cheaply. And, best of all, she’s thinking of going to Montana this summer and so is seriously considering a stay at RV Park Chez Rae!

I’m so glad we had a chance to do the Faro together. I don’t think it’ll be my only time making that climb!

Culinary Differences

I use a lot of soy sauce and quickly went through the bottle I brought here (because I had an opened one left when I was packing). Thankfully, Kikkoman soy sauce is easy to find in Mexico.

In fact, it seems that Mexicans are as particular about soy sauce as I am. I overheard a couple arguing at Ley a couple of trips there ago. Another brand was on sale and much cheaper, so that’s what the husband wanted to buy. The wife insisted on Kikkoman! They could have been filming a commercial. They were cute. The wife won!

Mexican Kikkoman sauce soy tastes exactly like the Canadian and U.S. versions. But there is one notable difference that makes me wish I still had my Canadian bottle: the recipe on the back.

The label looks very similar to the one I’m used to, only it’s in Spanish instead of French and English. I really wish I’d gotten a comparison. The red strip at the top has text that says, “for all uses.”

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Now, here’s the recipe, for beef fajitas. My first thought was, oh, Mexi-Asian fusion!

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But look at the ingredients:

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Beef, soy sauce, lemon or lime juice, onion, garlic, chiles, tortillas.

Soy sauce excepted, those are all ubiquitous Mexican ingredients. I can’t remember what the Canadian recipe was exactly, but it was definitely for an ‘Asian-inspired’ dish with ingredients many folks would have to go out and buy especially for the recipe.

Soy sauce is a savoury salty sauce, well suited to a variety of dishes, not just ‘Asian-inspired’ ones, something I know well, and yet I find myself humbled that I haven’t thought about adding it to the ‘Mexicany’ meals I make.

Tonight’s dinner was a chicken, rice, and veggie stir fry flavoured with soy sauce. I think I’ll add lime juice and jalape帽os to the leftovers!

Changing Landscapes

I’m trying to make it a habit to go for an hour-long walk on the beach in the afternoon. I go sometime between two and four and have found that the beach is always changing. Sometimes, it is very smooth and hard packed with barely any wave action. Once, it had a lot of shoals and deep tidal pools. Today, it was one tiny dune after another, just enough slope to add a bit more effort.

I’ve been listening to podcasts on my iPhone while I walk. I don’t mind being alone with my thoughts, but like when I was delivering fliers in Lethbridge, having something to listen to gives me added motivation. It also helps me time my walks to make sure I’m getting at least an hour. Right now, I’m listening to BBC Radio’s ‘Cabin Pressure‘ series. I hope the waves are drowning out the sound of my laughter. The series is hilarious!

An episode is 28 minutes, so I when I get to the end of one, I turn around. I start them when I get to a more isolated part of the beach, so I’m actually getting in a walk that is longer than an hour, having about another ten minutes or so each way to get home from where I stop and start the podcasts.

While I usually resist the urge to collect seashells, I couldn’t help myself yesterday and brought home proof that Mexico has unicorns:

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Last Minute Lunch Date

I’ve been working on a file from hell the last couple of days that took almost twice as long to do as it should have. Even though I have another big job due tomorrow night, I’ve been typing since 6AM and decided to quit at 1:00.

I emailed Dale mid morning to see if she wanted to go for a walk on the beach. She was more in the mood to go for a beer and wanted to try the Puesta del Sol restaurant because it advertised 15 peso beers, the cheapest price we’ve seen outside a grocery store. I had planned to get chicken for lunch, so I decided to instead get food at the restaurant.

Puesta del Sol is the Gringoest restaurant on the beach in that it’s where all the tour groups go. So I don’t know why I was shocked by the English menu in U.S. dollars. I asked if they had one in pesos and was told it’s only in Spanish. Not a problem. I just like to know how much I’m spending!

Dale ordered her usual, nachos with cheese, and they were terrible! They were covered in viscous bright orange processed ‘Nacho cheese’ like you’d get at a cinema back home. Yikes! What a waste of 60 pesos!

I ordered their fish ceviche for 85 pesos and was very happy with my lunch! Thank goodness! The portion was huge, almost more than I could eat, with the fish being mixed with grated carrots and ‘cooked’ in what I think was a mixture of both lime and orange juice. It was fresh, zesty, and dang good with a pile of chips! 85 pesos felt like a good deal and not just for a Gringo restaurant, so I’m pleased.

Our Pacificos were, indeed, only 15 pesos. So we would definitely go back to Puesta del Sol for a drink, but not for nachos!

Running Errands On a Muggy Morning

I’m waiting for a big temporary contract to start any day, so I’m trying to squeeze in a little fun first! Dale and I both love to go to Maz and just wander around, so after she dropped me off last night, we made plans to go back to town this morning to run a few errands.

We were originally going to take the bus to Walmart, but Dale has figured out that she really doesn’t need to go there. My budget is still 2,000 pesos short because of the recent banking disaster, so my plan to go to Soriana and get different groceries got scrapped.

I’m going to call my bank next week to see if they made any headway to get my money back, but I’m sure it’s gone. It’s going to be a really tight month as I only have 1,100 pesos spending money for groceries and outings till February. I got through November with about that much and I know I can do it, but I’ll have to be really mindful of where my money is going. I’d rather go out and eat beans at home than to eat well at home and not go out, so the blog should still be interesting. 馃槈

At any rate, I got home last night and there was no internet. There was a lot of work done around the property and on the roof yesterday, so I thought that maybe the line got knocked out. I didn’t mind the work since it was for me this time!

I haven’t had any running hot water in the shower to speak of since the water went out a few weeks ago. My landlady’s husband figured out that there was air in the line and got it sorted, then changed my shower head to a smaller one with fewer holes to increase the pressure. He also lifted the rooftop water tank to increase the water drop, which increased the water pressure. My shower last night was amazing! And I now have warm water in the kitchen in just a few minutes, something I used to wait 20 minutes for!

So, no internet last night. I got to bed early so I could get up early and run to Carmelita’s to check my email before going to Maz. My active clients right now are in EST, so 7:00 here is 9:00 for them and if I can expect anything for the day, it’s usually in my inbox by the time I’m up. There was nothing pressing, thankfully. Dale had sent me something to print and I figured out how to get it from my iPad to my computer, which was quite an accomplishment!

It was about 8:00 when I headed home and I stopped by my landlady’s place. Her husband (who did the plumbing work) was in the garage, so I thanked him for the work on the shower and told him about the internet. My landlady came by just as Dale and I were heading out around 8:30 to say that she had called TelMex and they said there was nothing wrong that they could see through their system, so she was going to go speak with someone in person.

Dale and I finally made it to Maz and stopped at Panam谩’s for a pastry. Today is the Day of the Kings/Epiphany, which is a holiday, so they didn’t have much for sale except for the cake with, I imagine, the bean in it. We grabbed two strudel things that wound up being full of custard. Very tasty, but I have issues with eggs, so I might have an upset tummy later. We shall see…

We both had a couple of errands to run, but no shopping per se. I stopped at the bank to withdraw rent and spending money. I really like the Santander Bank because it gave me my 7,000 pesos in 50s, 100s, 200s, and 500s, instead of just 500s! I am so glad I gave them a second chance.

And then, I did something stupid. I LEFT MY CARD IN THE ATM. I’m so used to getting the card first before the machine will give me my money. The lady who used the ATM next ran after me and gave me back my card, thank goodness! I was so grateful to her as that’s the last thing I would have needed. CIBC assured me that they could courier me a new card to Mexico, but can you imagine the delay for that, never mind the difficulty in finding a secure place to have the card sent to?! So thank you again, wonderful lady!

Next, we found a copy place for Dale. She wanted some contact cards to give to folks. I didn’t bring any card stock with me, so I printed in colour onto regular paper to then be photocopied onto card stock. Dale handed the copy clerk the paper and told me to do my thing, ie. be her translator. I said that she wanted cards. The clerk found card stock, not perforated, which Dale could cut up herself. The copies were beautiful and only cost Dale 24 pesos. I’m frankly shocked that they turned out so crisp and clear.

Then, Dale told me that she had heard about a museum above the Plazuela Machado that is about the history of Maz. We found it and entry was only 20 pesos. We went in and first listened to a movie where we learned about how insignificant Maz was as a port until the end of the 19th century, how it got built up thanks to industry (mostly sugar cane factories), how it was nearly destroyed when the economy tanked, and how Mazlatecos saved their city by switching to fishing and tourism as the primary industries. It was really interesting. I’m surprised by how little the city has changed since it was built in terms of the main buildings and roads.

We then walked around the museum, which gave us an idea of what a typical residence in the late 19th century would have been like (simple, with lots of dark wood). There were lots of pictures of Maz in the day, too, which Dale and I found fascinating. What a little gem!

This is the kind of gas stove I want for my cabin!

This is the kind of gas stove I want for my cabin!

Gorgeous floor tile upstairs in the museum.

Gorgeous floor tile upstairs in the museum.

View of the Plazuela Machado from the upstairs balcony.

View of the Plazuela Machado from the upstairs balcony.

Such a pretty building.

Such a pretty building.

Gorgeous floor of the balcony.

Gorgeous floor of the balcony.

And a ceiling to match!

And a ceiling to match!

Diva Angela Peralta, after whom the theatre is named.

Diva Angela Peralta, after whom the theatre is named.

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Outside, someone turned this window into a bench.

Outside, someone turned this window into a bench.

Looking up at the museum balcony.

Looking up at the museum balcony.

The museum entrance is on聽Constituci贸n between Plazuela Machado and Olas Altas. It’s in the yellow Connobia building that has the Italian restaurant. The entrance price list is by the door, to give you an idea of what to look for.

My next pressing errand was to get my tote bag fixed. I have a leather tote that I just adore because it’s just a good size for my lifestyle. It’s not pretty, but it can hold my electronics, a little shopping, and even serve as an overnight bag. Unfortunately, the strap has been coming apart for ages and it was literally hanging by a thread as we finished up at the museum.

I’d asked Contessa if she knew of a leather repair place and she suggested I ask the shoe shiners in front of the cathedral. They were of no help. I then asked the gals at the museum and they said that the ladies at a clothing repair place in the mercado would know where to send me. So that’s where we ended up going next.

First mail box I've seen in Mexico!

First mail box I’ve seen in Mexico!

The McDonald's near the Mercado only serves dessert!

The McDonald’s near the Mercado only serves dessert! Panam谩’s is next door.

We walked around the perimeter of the mercado first, not certain what we were looking for. I found a woman selling battered magazines and books. She had a bunch of Reader’s Digests, which are great for practicing the reading of Spanish as they are mature but easy language. Unfortunately, she wanted 10 pesos each, not negotiable. I decided to grab one anyway when I saw that she had a copy of the Spanish version of Little Women, one of my favourite childhood books! I love reading translations of works I know well as that helps me improve my vocabulary and grammar without also struggling to follow the story. She said the book was 40 pesos and I could have one Reader’s Digest free with it. Sold!

After some time, we found the clothing repair place and the ladies did know exactly where to send me. I was really confused when they said to go up and down, but I eventually understood that I was to go several blocks ‘that way’ and that the shop, the name of course I’ve now forgotten, would be on my left.

Off we went and everything became clear as the road when UP and then DOWN again. Maz is not flat!

On the way, we passed a house that is for sale and with which Dale is, understandably, in love. Even though it is derelict, it still has heavy wooden door and window frames and stained glass.

Dale and I want to buy this house. :)

Dale and I want to buy this house. 馃檪

After a few blocks, we hadn’t found the shop, so I went into a shoe shop to ask and the lady stepped out to point one block back. Even with my eyesight, I could see the sign! It was just in the wrong direction from the way were were going. The shop is at the corner of Zaragoza and Benito Juarez.

I brought the bag in and the gentleman said that he could fix it for 30 pesos! He set to work with glue, a patch (unexpected), and his treadle sewing machine. It wasn’t fine work, but for this bag, it was 100% what I wanted and the patch is on the inside of the strap so it doesn’t show. I just wish he’d had darker thread, but I’m being fussy. I am so pleased! And did I mention 30 pesos?!

Treadle sewing machine at the leather repair shop.

Treadle sewing machine at the leather repair shop.

Inside of my bag strap.

Inside of my bag strap.

Outside. I managed to roll off those spots of glue and except for the different thread colour, it looks as good as new from that side!

Outside. I managed to roll off those spots of glue and except for the different thread colour, it looks as good as new from that side!

We had thought to have lunch at the Mercado, but, really, we weren’t that hungry at that time. We walked up Zaragoza to get to the panga and didn’t pass anything that was calling our names so we decided to save our money and have lunch at our respective homes.

The former orphanage.

The former orphanage.

I got in and had internet, as well as water all over my bathroom and hallway floors. Toilet failure. OMG. I went to the landlady to pay the rent and explained the issue (too high water level in the tank and leaking through the handle). I said that I turned the water off to the toilet until it can be fixed. Guess it’s the week for problems!