Monday Night at La Chupiteria in Mazatlán

Dale’s friend Rob plays at La Chupiteria on Paseo Claussen, just north of Angel Flores, on Monday nights. Long-term Mazatlecos would know this location as being the former Canucks bar.

We left my place just past six and took our time getting there, winding and wending our way through the historical district so that we could stick to well populated areas. I was thrilled to pass ‘my’ ice cream guy, whom I haven’t seen in ages because I’ve been going to Maz too early or too late. I tried a new flavour, green, and can’t remember what he said it is. I’m not sure why, but I only got charged 15 pesos!

La Chupiteria is a lovely location across from the Malecón. The decor is splendid. I took lots of photos, but I haven’t mastered my iPhone camera since these two were the only ones that sort of came out. 🙁

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The band was playing sock hop/rock 'n roll stuff from the '50s and '60s.

The band was playing sock hop/rock ‘n roll stuff from the ’50s and ’60s.

Before the music started, we walked around the back part where there were a few vendors. I’ve been looking for a certain style of apron and found exactly what I wanted for only 120 pesos (handmade by a group of 11 women sewing their way out of poverty, so I would not haggle), but I hadn’t brought that much cash with me. I doubt they are going to sell out and I’ll try them again another week.

The music was really good and lots of people got on the dance floor. Dale and I tapped to the beat, but did not venture out. I’m used to being the youngest in the crowd, but it was particularly noticeable last night!

Dale is a very slow drinker and I like my beer cold. So I drank two to her one. Total cost for three beers was 75 pesos! While I had a good evening at La Chupiteria, it would not be my first choice of place to get a beer in Maz since they charge 25 pesos. It’s been my experience that a beer is 20 pesos in Maz and 25 on Isla, so La Chupiteria is a more expensive place to drink. I know, I know, five pesos isn’t much, but it’s the principle of the thing.

We then walked down to Olas Altas to look for the Looney Bean coffee shop and can’t find it. Dale is sure she’s seen it. We are confused.

From Olas Altas, we headed to Plazuela Machado and stopped en route at the Panamá bakery to get some treats for the road. I got a savoury jalepeño-y bun thing that had a thin layer of ham and cheese in it, very yummy!, and a pineapple filled thing. 24 pesos for a small late supper, not bad! Dale and I are huge fans of Panamá’s as the pastries are super cheap, always fresh, and we’ve never had a bad one! This was our first time at this location; we usually go to the one between the Mercado and the cathedral.

My night soured when I got home to find no internet, hence the lateness of this post. More on that in my next post!

The Pelican Length

Mid-afternoon is my favourite time to hit the beach. Lowish tide means lots of clean hard packed sand to walk on and tidal pools to wade through. Sometimes, they are shallow. Sometimes, like today, I find myself in water up to my mid-thighs! I walk away from the crowds, towards the golf course and airport. Sometimes, it’s a short walk. Sometimes, I forget that I’ll have to come back and walk far enough that the trip home is a bit of a chore.

Today’s walk was marred by my coming upon two sick or injured pelicans. The first still had a lot of spirit, spreading its wings when I got too close, but unable to otherwise move. What a wingspan it was, likely close to my height (5’6″)!

I was certain the other was dead because it did not react to me at all when I came upon it the first time. On the way back, it opened its eyes slightly, startling me!

Both were surrounded by ATV tracks, so I hope they were merely in shock from fright and not injured.

Sunny With a Chance of Goats and Stingrays

I only had a little work to do for tomorrow morning, so I finished it first thing today and then headed out to hike up Goat Mountain a second time.

It was a gorgeous hot and sunny day, the first that we’ve had in almost a week. I ran into Janet and Grant on the way and caught up with them, as well as getting cuddles from their dog, Boo!

Watching ships in a harbour is something I really enjoy, so I took my time getting to Goat Mountain, using the zoom function on my camera in lieu of binoculars to watch containers being loaded on and off ships.

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The pelicans were out in full force. They never cease to amuse me, even though they are not an exotic creature to me since we have them in SK and I saw plenty of them in Texas!

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Check out the wary expression on his face!

Check out the sly expression on his face!

The goats were also out today and did a good job of ignoring me!

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Put in sheep or hairy coos instead of goats and I would wear that this picture was taken in the Scottish Highlands!

Put in sheep or hairy coos instead of goats and I would wear that this picture was taken in the Scottish Highlands!

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Scotland, seriously!

Scotland, seriously!

There were also lots of a bird of prey, probably a hawk, at the very top of Goat Mountain. Getting up and down it was again rather anticlimactic because it looks so imposing from a distance!

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Can you see the spires of the cathedral?

Can you see the spires of the cathedral?

Dale and I are going to climb up to the lighthouse soonish. She's done it once.

Dale and I are going to climb up to the lighthouse soonish. She’s done it once.

Lots of these birds flying around.

Lots of these birds flying around.

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Using my excellent zoom to show off this incredibly clear water.

Using my excellent zoom to show off this incredibly clear water.

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More goats with lots of bleating, probably telling me to go away!

More goats with lots of bleating, probably telling me to go away!

On the way back, I passed a municipal police truck. Both the driver and the officer standing in the back holding a weapon were wearing bandanas over their face, which I read means that they are narcos attempting to protect their identities. They slowed down to give me a once over and I removed my sunglasses, smiled, and nodded. I got no reaction from them at all. Goat Island is quite an isolated part of Isla with little traffic, so it’s nice to see it being patrolled. The police force here does a good job keeping order. I’ve witnessed one arrest for what was very likely drunk and disorderly conduct.

I came home by the beach, which was eerily quiet for such a beautiful day, but explained by the numerous yellow flags warning swimmers that there was a risk of stingrays. Some hardy souls still braved the water!

Yellow with logo is a warning for stingrays.

Yellow with logo is a warning for stingrays.

It took about two dozen pictures to get one with the wind catching the flag just right so that I could capture the logo!

It took about two dozen pictures to get one with the wind catching the flag just right so that I could capture the logo!

Temperature is Relative

My cousin was thrilled with the weather this week, while I found it cool during the overcast days and downright chilly in the evening. It’s amazing how quickly one adapts to a new climate!

While waiting for my hot dogs tonight, I chatted with one of the cooks. She complained about tonight’s cold weather and I told her that, considering there’s snow back home, I can’t complain! She says the coldest place she’s been is Lake Tahoe in winter and tonight was almost as bad! She was exaggerating. 🙂 I told her that I saw some pictures of this week’s snowfall in Los Angeles, which shocked her, and concluded that the world has gone crazy, which she found really funny.

(I didn’t know how to say complain, so I said ‘cannot say something bad about the weather.’ So my word of the day is quejarse!)

The lady who dresses my hot dogs was once again surprised by how little I want on them, never mind the odd, to her, combination. Next week, I will tell her about what are normal hot dog toppings where I’m from. I didn’t do it tonight because I didn’t know how to say sauerkraut (just like in French, but spelled differently, chucrut!) or sweet pickle relish (still working on that one, will probably just say minced sweet marinated cucumbers).

Speaking of relish, my cousin brought me some from Quebec. My hot dogs tonight were pretty dang perfect! I don’t miss the sauerkraut at all; the tomatoes give the acidity I need.

Some of the hot dogs are wrapped in bacon before grilling. This week, I graduated to the bacon wrapped ones. Woohoo! 🙂

Tomorrow is chicken. I missed last week. I ran into the chicken lady at Ley today and she actually commented on the fact!

Like a Pack Mule

My cousin and I said our goodbyes at Rico’s at about 9:30 because they needed to be in a taxi for the airport by about 10:00. I crossed the street and walked about a block to a dedicated bus stop where two older Gringas were waiting. It was really nice to see that demographic taking the bus!

This is what passes for a bus stop bench in Mexico. I was just glad to have a bench!

This is what passes for a bus stop bench in Mexico. I was just glad to have a bench!

The bus was crowded, but I still managed to score a window seat. It was quite a long drive south because there was more traffic. We eventually left the Malecón and started zigzagging through streets until I wasn’t quite certain exactly where I was. I figured that most of the bus would empty at the Mercado and waited for a huge crowd to stand up to get off, a plan that worked perfectly as that put me right at an entrance to the Mercado.

I hadn’t had breakfast and was starting to feel faint, so I made a beeline for a bakery and got a pastry stuffed with pineapple to tide me over until I could find a proper brunch. I love the pastries here in that even the sweet ones aren’t super sweet. I paid with a centavo coin for the first time!

My blood sugar stabilized, I headed to Waldo’s to get a few things and then I decided to go explore the restaurants above the Mercado. One thing I love about Mexico is that you can get ‘non-breakfast food’ for breakfast, especially at places that don’t cater to Gringos (I could have bought freshly grilled beef and onion tacos from a cart on the walk to the Malecón this morning!). Rico’s had surprisingly decent prices for breakfast, but it was all stuff like eggs, waffles, and bagels, none of which are my first choice for breakfast.

Most of the upstairs restaurants had similar menus. One lady waved me into her place and when I saw the number of Mexicans eating there, it seemed like a fine choice. She offered me a plate of fried shrimp, fries, beans, rice, and tortillas for 70 pesos. It wasn’t a special oh wow meal (although I do have to say that the shrimp were awesome, not being too heavily breaded and well seasoned), but it was hearty, savoury, not expensive, and way more than I could eat (the tortilla stack was bigger than one I get to last me three or four days!).

It’s funny how one of my biggest fears about coming to Mexico was that I would be afraid to eat at restaurants like these that would very likely fail a health inspection back home and now that I’m here, I don’t even think twice about eating at such a place!

Sated, I headed downstairs to load up on fruits and veggies. I never get everything from one vendor. I don’t know why, everybody seems to have the same stuff for the same price and quality!

I walked around a bit looking for a cheese vendor I was told about, but failed, so I exited on Leandro Valle and headed to the Ley. There, I loaded up on dairy products, bacon, and a few other things that were on sale (including a two for one deal on baked tostadas). I’m going to Soriana with Dale next week, so I only got what I needed to get me through the weekend.

One important thing I picked up was powdered milk, which is what I use for my coffee. I bought some in the States and must have gotten a bad batch because it absolutely refused to turn creamy with the addition of hot water, which is another thing that made my coffee situation so bad here. A bag that would have cost me about 12CAD was on sale for only 33 pesos! This stuff was Carnation brand and was perfect in my Rico’s coffee!

Back outside, I balanced my load as best as I could and debated taking Zaragoza or Leandro Valle to get to the embarcadero. The latter is hilly and the former had more chances of my being tempted by a pulmonía, so I obviously picked the harder option, grateful that this was the first time I’ve come out of Ley to a complete lack of pulmonías!

By the time I got to the panga, I was pretty tired, but my work wasn’t done. The dock was quite low, but the water level high, so it was a huge step into the boat. I was wearing capris, so the guys weren’t eager to help me with my bags (I tend to get help if I’m in a skirt or dress, amusingly enough).

When I got back to Isla, I popped into the City Deli to pick up an eight-pack of beer and that was my absolute limit as to what I could carry! And it was a bit much; I was really eager to get home. I ran into Dale partway, so I had an excuse to take a short break. Yes, I could have taken a pulmonía on this side, but I need the exercise!

I can’t believe I’ve been in Mazatlán just shy of two months and am already so comfortable making my way around the city. The last step will be figuring out the buses that go to Walmart and Soriana, something Dale is looking forward to trying.