Sad

I’ve been ambivalent about whether or not to share this, but I wanted to make a comment on a wonderful new invention I dreamed of as a child and never expected to come to fruition in my lifetime: video chat.

After being unwell since Christmas, my grandmother was admitted to hospital several weeks ago and it did not take long to get a bleak prognosis of a few weeks. I considered driving to Quebec, but the weather being what it has been in the northeast coupled with her rapid decline meant that I could very well not make it. I did not feel comfortable flying out of Mexico and leaving my things and truck here so near to when I would have to leave.

Finally, it was decided that I had visited in September, that my grandmother was very happy about seeing me so recently, and that she would be very satisfied with a few Skype calls that would confirm that I was healthy and happy. The first Skype call was just after she got in from hospital and we were able to catch up a little. The other calls were just smiles and blown kisses. But at least we saw each other and spoke in real time. How extraordinary to have this technology when she was born in a time where planes were only still getting off the ground.

She died peacefully last night, March 22nd, in my mother’s home. She was an extraordinary woman I loved very much and who accepted me just as I was. Grandmaman traveled as long as she could and was forever marked by her trip to China. She understood and indulged my wanderlust and never faulted me for needing to be somewhere else. She followed my blog (even commented on it!), emailed, and used Facebook and Skype to keep in touch. Technology allowed me to stay close even when I was far away. I am very grateful to have had those last few video chats with her.

A Great Day in Mazatlán

Even though I didn’t need to be up early today, I was wide awake at 6:00. I am absolutely exhausted, but it’s not the sleep deprived kind at all as I’ve been getting plenty of sleep. So I didn’t try to get another oouple of hours and instead read for about an hour.

I put on a load of laundry while the water heated for coffee, then I breakfasted on my leftover tacos. They were surprisingly good cold! I had planned to reheat them in a pan with cheese, but they didn’t need any work at all, besides the addition of a little avocado. 🙂

Laundry takes a while since the machine is slow to fill, so I did a little clothes mending before I left. I didn’t think to bring sewing supplies from home, but I found a very adequate little kit at Waldo’s for just 12 pesos that had everything I needed, even the right colour threads!

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

After finally putting the laundry on the line, I headed to town. I have a birthday coming up so my first stop was the dress shop to put in an order for a dress. 🙂 It was going to take a while since the seamstress wasn’t in yet, but I wasn’t in a hurry as I had some errands to run in the area. I paid and said I’d be back in about an hour.

I head to Panamá’s, where there was a lineup out the door and up the block for its mediocre food! I grabbed an almond croissant to go (no wait for this), went back to the Mercado to get a grapefruit juice, and found a bench in the square opposite the cathedral to have my snack. This was the first time a juice vendor asked me to confirm my order. It surprised me that it took this long since orange and grapefruit have the same last syllable.

Next, I went to the fabric/craft store as I have a craft project I want to do. I was looking for felt and completely struck out. I used Google to translate, describe what felt is, spoke to a clerk who is fluent in English, showed a picture, and still we could not figure it out. I found something else that will make do.

I then asked for ‘cinta de contact’, remembering that Velcro didn’t work last time, and the guy looked at me funny and said, “You mean Velcro?” I said yes, but that the last clerk I asked had no idea what Velcro is. He shook his head and said he knew exactly who I meant. Interesting.

He left me in the capable hands of the notions counter and I asked for black Velcro. They only had white left and I could have a whole metre or a rather wrinkled remnant a few inches long that was exactly as much as I needed for my project! Finally, I wanted ribbon and they had rolls and rolls and rolls of the stuff, but I quickly spotted exactly what I wanted and got a metre of that.

Total cost of my purchases at the craft store: 2.5 pesos. I love this country.

Then, I went to Waldo’s to pick up a few things and then I went back in search of the earring lady. There are tons other vendors in the Mercado selling 10-peso pairs of earrings, but they look really cheap and/or gaudy. She has the nicest ones and I found her again! I picked out a pair that she says is made of green quartz.

I finished my errands by getting some avocados, wandered around the Mercado a bit to continue getting my bearings in it, and figured out where I needed to catch the bus to the Golden Zone, my next stop. As it turns out, it’s on Benito Juarez, in front of Waldo’s and just outside the dress shop.

My dress was ready and the seamstress had remembered that I needed to have the straps shortened on the last dress, so she put shorter ones on this one. I tried the dress on the minute I got home and the straps on it are perfect!

My new dress. I don't like the fabric as much as it is going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

My new dress. I don’t like the fabric as much as it is a thin jersey-type material that is likely going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

I know I already have a purple dress, but there really wasn’t much I liked today in terms of patterns and fabric weight. I wound up making a compromise with a lighter weight fabric that I wasn’t sure would drape well (thankfully, it does!). I almost went with the orangey red dress in the same fabric as my pink dress, but the clerk said to me (in English), “I really don’t think that’s the best colour for you,” so that was that. I really like the pattern (flowers) and colour of this dress and the fabric feels very light and climate-appropriate.

My business in the area done, I wanted to head to the Golden Zone. It was frankly time to get over my annoying derision for the area and get to know it a bit better.

It was incredible to stand on the curb outside the Mercado with all the crowds and traffic, not be even remotely overwhelmed, and recognize the bus I needed as it pulled up. I have just about mastered the basics of this wonderful city!

I decided to ride the bus a good long way, just to see what was what and then either walk or bus it back to the Golden Zone to get coffee and lunch. I settled in and off we went. Traffic was light and there was almost no one on the bus. We passed the Golden Zone, hit the marina, and continued on to Nuevo Mazatlán and Cerritos. The only other passenger besides me got off near the Crown Plaza Hotel and I decided I was done, too, and got off as well.

Crowne Plaza Hotel

Crowne Plaza Hotel

map

I started to head back the way I came, stopping at an Oxxo for a bottle of water. I used to carry a full 1L bottle of water with me at all times until I realised just how much weight that is. Yes, buying a small bottle of water at a convenience store is about 4x the price of the water I buy at home, but I walk a lot and my bag gets heavy! Plus, buying water throughout the day means I always get cold water. Even if I start with half a bottle of ice, I have warm water within a few hours.

I walked all the way from the Crowne Plaza Hotel to the Marina.

Another great translation -- bottom of the sign, "Only registers."

Another great translation — bottom of the sign, “Only registers.”

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it's better for my bum leg. :)

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it’s better for my bum leg. 🙂

I'm not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

I’m not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

Looks like a new residential complex.

Looks like a new residential complex.

It's rather in the middle of nowhere.

It’s rather in the middle of nowhere.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There's a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There’s a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

A marina.

A marina.

I love the colour of the water down here.

I love the colour of the water down here.

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. :D

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. 😀

Can you imagine mooring here?

Can you imagine mooring here?

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. :)

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. 🙂

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

At the Marina, I found a proper bus shelter with shade and waited for some time for a bus. A taxi pulled up and offered me a ride, which I declined politely, as I had declined all the other offers I’d been giving along my long walk. “Why not?” the driver asked me in English. I replied in Spanish, “Bus to the Mercado, 10 pesos, taxi 120 pesos!” He laughed and said in perfect English, “Yeah. Can’t argue with that! Have a great day!”

There were folks across the street waiting for a bus going in the opposite direction (no shelter) and they came running across the street to me, asking if I’d ever taken the bus before. Yes… As it turns out, the buses kept going past them. I told them to stick out their arm to as a signal to the driver. As I said this, my bus showed up, so I was able to demonstrate.

This turned out to be one of the smaller ‘local’ buses (as opposed to the ‘tourist buses’). There really wasn’t much difference in the comfort level, but this bus was only 7 pesos instead of 10! BTW, the bus drivers have change!

It really wasn’t very far to get to Rico’s from the Marina, but I was glad for the lift. I got up just after the El Cid Resort and the driver asked me where I wanted him to stop exactly. I said Rico’s and he dropped me off kitty corner from the café.

To my surprise, Rico’s upped their coffee prices significantly since the last batch I got, from 124 pesos to 147 for a pound of Veracruz! Still a great deal, though! I was happy to use their bathroom while I waited for my order, but was surprised that it was not very clean.

It was coming onto 1:00 when I left and I was ready for lunch. I wanted sushi, something I haven’t had since November 29th, but I knew better than to have my heart set on it. There are tons of sushi restaurants in Maz, but they never seem to be open when I need them to be!

I walked down the street towards Rafael Buelna, looking at my food options and doing a bit of window shopping.

See these little squares in the pavement?

See these little squares in the pavement?

Super cute tiles! This one's a cat.

Super cute tiles! This one’s a cat.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

I was nearly at Rafael Buelna when I found an open sushi place, Yoko’s! Heading south, it’s just after Panamá’s and before the Burger King on your left. The entrance is set back from the road, so it’s not evident that the place is open. I’m glad I investigated!

To my immense surprise, I was not only served in Spanish, but the menu was bilingual Japanese-Spanish with no English! I had no idea what half the Spanish words were and my Japanese was much needed and appreciated. 🙂

I ordered pretty much my usual, octopus nigiri and spicy tuna.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

The octopus came with a sweet and salty sauce that I was worried would mask the delicate flavour of the flesh, but there was only a small dab of it and it wound up being very good!

The tuna was not spicy in the least, but was very fresh and generously portioned. This was a 10 out of 10 sushi meal! The bill was a bit shocking, 210 pesos with the tip, a very average price for this quality of sushi meal if converted to both USD and CAD, but quite high for Mexico! Totally worth it, though!

Looking out the window, I saw the Post and Ship mail service location. This is a great service for Gringos here long-term. You get a US shipping address in Texas and every so often, your items are brought to Mexico to be picked up at this location, with all customs processes and fees done for you. I couldn’t justify the cost of the service for just six months, but I bet the ex-pats love it!

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

After lunch, I decided to go to Panamá’s for cake and coffee, something a few people have told me I need to do just once, even if I don’t eat a lot of sweets anymore. I ordered the ‘coffee and slice’ special, asking for a ‘cafe Americano’ to get real black drip coffee to which you can add milk and sugar (as per my friend’s tip). I was brought a huge multi-tiered tray on wheels from which I could pick any dessert I wanted. There was tons of choice, but I really wanted chocolate and found a slice that looked like devil’s food cake with caramel, which is exactly what it was.

The cake was really good, but I wish I’d had someone to split it with as I could have easily been satisfied with just half of the huge slab. The coffee was excellent! So now I know that I can use Panamá’s for coffee, too! I don’t know if they do take out coffee, but I always a mug with me when I’m traveling, so there’s that option.

I was quite tired by this point, so it was time to wrap up my day with a visit to the Mega supermarket that I have heard so much about. It wasn’t far from Panamá’s; one or two blocks to Rafael Buelna and then perhaps one or two blocks down.

It had a lot, but, really, I think it’s over rated. I didn’t see much there that you can’t find at Soriana and the bigger Leys and the prices were generally a little higher for everything. They did have more imported foods, though, I’ll give them that, and more English signage and staff, which explains why Gringos like them so much and think that groceries are super expensive in Mexico! But I did get a few good deals and they had hummus! Reader Sandy left a comment yesterday about Mega having hummus, so I knew I wasn’t going to leave without some!

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn't stop giggling.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn’t stop giggling.

COLOURED rice!

COLOURED rice!

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

That should last me a bit.

That should last me a bit.

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the 'gourmet' imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the ‘gourmet’ imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish -- aceituna. Aceite is vinegar and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of marinated fish. :)

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish — aceituna. Aceite is oil and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of sardines. 🙂

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

Now, this was a find! It's no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

Now, this was a find! It’s no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

I’m glad I went to Mega because now I know that I haven’t really been missing out on anything by going primarily to Ley and occasionally to Soriana. There were a few things that might make it worth popping into Mega occasionally, but going there won’t be a habit.

I’d promised myself a pulmonía for the ride home and was quoted 70 pesos. I talked him down to 65… but still paid the 70. 🙂 A panga was pulling out as I arrived, but came back to the dock for me!

The walk home from the panga was just about all the extra work I needed to do today as my bags were getting heavy. I’m cooked and beat, but what a great day off! Now, to decide if I want wine or beer!

Public Toilets in Mexico

I am surprised by how easy it is to find a bathroom in Mexico when you need one. I’ve seen everything from dedicated rest areas to people actually giving access to their own personal bathroom in their home! Look for a sign that says baño or servicios. I have yet to come across a Pemex gas station that doesn’t have a public bathroom

Bathrooms are often a little worn and grotty but still clean. I have yet to find a Mexican bathroom that is as scary as some bathrooms I’ve encountered in the US and Canada. Sometimes, there will be an attendant and you will need to pay a token amount to this person (usually 5 pesos), who will give you a few squares of toilet paper and possibly paper towels.

Of particular interest to ladies, often toilets do not have seats. I think this is because seats and toilets are sold separately in Mexico (don’t quote me on this, but I’m sure I read it in someone’s blog about building a home in Mexico). Today, both the bathroom at Pemex and at Soriana were luxurious — free to use and stocked with toilet paper, paper towels, and hand soap, but they had no seats. You can’t have everything, right?!

Ladies will also want to carry tissues and sanitizer in their purse, or, even better, wet wipes, as sometimes there is no toilet paper and/or water and soap to wash your hands. Always check the stall before sitting/squatting to make sure there is paper. Sometimes, as I learned at Ley this week and Soriana today, the paper dispenser is actually by the door (either inside or out!) and you have to grab some on the way in!

If there is a bin by the toilet, you need to put the paper in there, not into the bowl (ie. do not flush it). Please, please, please, cover your paper if it is messy. I really wish I didn’t have to say this…

Mazatlán Centro Histórico bathroom tip: pay admission at the Museo Arqueológico (less than 30 pesos and free on Sundays!) on Sixto Osuna (just past Plazuela Machado en route to Olas Altas). They have super clean newly renovated bathrooms with toilet paper, paper towels, water, hand soap, AND SEATS.

Today Was an Expensive Bust

I was up early to get L&N’s friend to the airport and was on the road heading to Maz by about 8:15. I had planned to spend part of the day at village called El Quelite a little north of Maz, but made an irreversible and expensive mistake: I got on the cuota (toll road) instead of the libre (free road). It doesn’t matter that it took me ages to realise that I wouldn’t be able to access the town from the cuota, I still ended up having to practically go halfway to Culiacán before I could turn around. This meant I had to go through the toll booth in both directions, which cost 109 pesos EACH WAY!!! 🙁

The Pole Palace night club sounds like a very classy establishment.

The Pole Palace night club sounds like a very classy establishment.

Mexican open top double decker bus... Yes, those are people poking out of the top of it!

Mexican open top double decker bus… Yes, those are people poking out of the top of it!

When I was finally able to turn around, it was at an oasis along the barren road, a Pemex/OXXO combo, where I was very glad to have access to a bathroom (which had paper, water, and soap, but no toilet seat) and to be able to get a coffee (which tasted not great; I’ve been so spoiled by Rico’s!).

Turning around, I thought I could salvage the day by visiting some petroglyphs L&N had mentioned and the access road for which I had passed on the way north, but this being the first day of spring, there were massive crowds. I was almost 5KM down the dirt track to the location when a cop signaled for me to pull over. I did so and he spoke very quickly to me.

I said, ¿Mande? and he looked at a loss for words and managed to get out in English that he doesn’t speak English. I shook my head and said that if he spoke slowly and used simple words I would understand. He tried again and I repeated what I had understood: I had to go to the end of the road, go around the parking lot, come back up the track, and park at the head of a long queue of cars. The cop grinned and said exactly.

So that’s what I did and let’s just say I had no desire to park almost 6KM from the entrance and hike down to something I had no details about when it was obviously a special day and people were heading out for the whole of it, with parasols and coolers.

I made it back to the cuota and drove straight to the Soriana off Mex-15 that I went to in December. I actually wanted to check out Mega, but did not have the energy at this point to brave the traffic down Rafael Buelna.

Soriana didn’t have much or, rather, I’m not in the mood to cook, so I pretty much just stocked up on paper goods, crackers, sliced ham, and kielbasa. Something told me to check my email before going into the store and I had a tiny order from Contessa, that I was able to fill. I am always glad to do that for people! When I would do my supply runs to  Whitehorse, I would often have full huge lists of shopping for people, hundreds of dollars’ worth… and I would have the favour returned when others did their supply runs.

I dropped Contessa’s things off and got in around 2:30. I had a beer while I read a bit, then I decided I was hungry and moved my reading to the El Velero restaurant where I made the mistake of filling up on chips (damn their awesome pico de gallo!) and limonda, not leaving me much room for my chicken tacos. So I brought most of the tacos home and will have a nice breakfast tomorrow.

Not counting any expenditures from Soriana onward, my day cost me about 500 pesos in tolls and fuel with absolutely nothing to show for it. Very disappointing. If I wasn’t driving such a gas guzzler, I would have enjoyed the drive, something I haven’t done much this winter, but all I could focus on was the gas gauge needle dipping lower and lower and lower. If El  Quelite had had anything really remarkable to see, I might have made a point to find my way to the libre and gone there after all, but there was really nothing that spectacular to see to justify the extra mileage.

I wish I had a navigator.  You can’t drive and navigate here, it’s too dangerous. A navigator would have been looking at the map for me and telling me to stay in the left lane while I worked at avoiding getting into an accident.

To be honest, I wish I had done what I wanted to do today: come home from the airport and go back to bed with a book. 🙁

Mutual Trust

My landlady and her husband just left from fixing my toilet. Well, he fixed it and she and I gabbed. She was quite impressed by my report about the Road and was devastated to see the state of the ceiling in the bathroom. I’d told her that rain came in and caused the paint to start flaking, but the impact of this didn’t hit her till she saw the damage.

My relation with my dueña has been very good. We don’t have any sort of written agreement, but with a bit of give and take on both sides, this business relationship works. She trusts me that the rent will show up at some point and I trust that repairs will be done in a timely manner. She pays the gas and power bills to make sure service isn’t cut off and I don’t balk and reimburse her as soon as I can. And, of course, she got internet in and handles all inquiries related to that while I do my best to keep her house clean and neat and alert her of problems.

Unfortunately, the yardmate situation has been terrible. I like the house, the location, the price, and get along well with my landlady, but I’ll confess that there have been many times since the yardmate arrived in December that I have thought of moving because of her. She is also the reason I hesitated in committing to the idea of coming back to this house, with the fear that the yardmate had the same thought.

But I’ve heard through the grapevine that the yardmate is going to look for other accommodation if she comes back to Isla next year and this makes me very happy. I’ve decided not to say much more about the yardmate because I don’t want to sink to her level.

I want to come back to this house because it works for me, the kinks with the landlady are worked out, and I’ll know I’ll have good internet within a few days of arrival. It just doesn’t seem worth my time to look for a more architecturally interesting building, something cheaper, or even something quieter.

I’ve been a homeowner for more than half of my adult life and I have to say that there are real perks to being a tenant — like not having to fix your own leaky toilet. 😀