Relocating the Hurt

There is a québécois expression that says, “changer le mal de place.” Literally, it means relocating the hurt. More figuratively, it means taking a break from a tedious routine. Having had a few tough work days, knowing that the week ahead is going to be brutal, and being blessed with easy files for today, I decided to take a long lunch break in Maz.

How wonderful it is for the city to be so close by that I can get there, meander around, have a meal, shop, and be home in just two and a half hours!

This was the first time that I went out with several stops in mind and didn’t at least glance at a map before leaving. I know where everything is now and actually getting quite good at finding the most direct route between A and B.

My first stop was the Santander bank in front of the Cathedral on Angel Flores. A few donations and an unexpected prepayment on a translation project meant that I could take out 1,000 pesos, which will go a very long way if this past month is any proof of that. I still had 200 pesos from my early January withdrawal!

From the bank, I went to Olas Altas to get sushi, but, alas, they were closed. 🙁 It was past 1:30, so I was quite surprised. I decided to instead check out a recommended burger joint, but they, too, were closed! Since I was in the Plazuela Machado area and have been craving chocolate for days, I decided to get dessert first and stopped in at the gelateria where 25 pesos got me a teeny scoop of craving busting goodness.

I then headed out towards the Mercado and decided to try lunch at Panamá’s bakery, which looks a lot like a Smitty’s restaurant or a Denny’s, a very Ameri-dian diner-style spot. I was given both a Spanish and English menu and had time to compare them.

As suspected, they were quite different, with the English menu omitting many of the Mexican dishes and adding more American dishes. The average price point on the English menu was also higher than on the Spanish one. I ordered the chicken enchiladas with creamy green sauce from the Spanish menu, hoping that they would be similar to the ones I had in Texas.

Unfortunately, no. And the Texas ones were actually much more authentic Mexican fare than Panamá’s version, which were rather bland and featured processed American cheese!

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Now, don’t get me wrong, the meal was fine. The sauce, while not super flavourful, was good and the roasted chicken filling was incredibly satisfying. Add in the huge helping of beans and I was stuffed. The meal was worth the 83 pesos I paid (plus tip), but it wasn’t one I’ll repeat.

It was getting close to two by this point, so I decided to head home by way of Ley. I really didn’t need anything, but I keep going to Ley in the hopes that they’ll have restocked an incredible all natural pineapple-coconut yoghurt I got there way back in late November or December. Today, they finally had some!

My knee was really bothering me today, so I decided to go home by Zaragoza rather than Leandro Valle, but then decided to instead meander through the small streets to create a more direct route to the embarcadero. That worked splendidly and I really enjoyed making my way through a warren of narrow cobblestone streets, so reminiscent of ancient Scottish cities, to emerge right in front of the entrance to the dock.

I spent just under 200 pesos today on public transportation, lunch, dessert, and groceries. Mexico continues to be incredibly affordable and I have succeeded in ‘changer le mal de place.’ Now, back to work. It’ll be a bit of a marathon session!

Low Tide

The tide was especially low today, giving us a lot more beach!

I love shoals like these that have just a shimmer of water over them.

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You can see how high the tide came today.

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I live here!

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When I came in, Dale popped over so I could print some things for her and then we went to the El Velero restaurant so she could buy me a beer as a thank you.

Two beers were only 30 pesos! I covered the tip and also bought an empanada from a beach vendor. They were fresh out of the oven, still warm, and smelled heavenly. A pineapple one was just 20 pesos. The crust was flaky like pie and the filling was akin to pineapple jam. I hadn’t had much lunch, so it really hit the spot. I’m glad I took a chance on one and supported a local business!

Tomorrow is Dale’s last day here before she leaves for Gringoland. I will miss her. 🙁 I’m glad I’ve learned how to ride the bus because I can get to her door and back home again for a mere 36 pesos total. It’ll also be easy for her to meet me at the Mercado or Plazuela Machado. We’re not ready to say farewells just yet!

El Faro de Mazatlán (the Lighthouse)

Well, I got my exercise in today. Here’s a rough overview of the bit of walking I did, which does not highlight the fact that the trip included climbing 150m (492 feet), including 339 steps.

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Dale and I had wanted to climb El Faro (the lighthouse) since we first heard about it. She did it with a group of friends recently and was keen to show me how to get there. We waited this long to make sure we were in decent enough shape as it’s quite a hike up, never mind actually walking to the start of the trek and then back again. I’ve been walking the beach daily for weeks and have start running again, just two or three kilometres three times a week. So that in combination with how well I did hiking in Utah, I knew the Faro wasn’t going to be that much of a challenge.

I met Dale on the beach at 8:00 this morning and we walked to the beach panga. I only paid one way since I had errands to run downtown that would bring me closer to the village panga for the trip home.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Doesn't the lighthouse look imposing?

Doesn’t the lighthouse look imposing?

From the Maz side, it was a pretty quick walk by the docks to get to the start of the lighthouse trail. The streets were very busy and there weren’t really any sidewalks, so we had to watch where we were going. I found the start of the bus route that terminates in the Golden Zone.

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You'd work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You’d work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

The lighthouse trail starts of gently with an ascent along a rutty path. It then becomes challenging when you reach the first of the 339 steps. This is the only way to get to the Faro, on foot. It’s an incredible amount of work to get there if the point isn’t to get exercise. On the way down, we passed painters going up and they looked in pain, one carrying a huge bucket of paint, another the ladder, another the miscellaneous equipment!

Access to the Faro. Don't let it fool you, pedestrians only!

Access to the Faro. Don’t let the entrance fool you, pedestrians only!

The path gets rough very fast.

The path gets rough very fast.

I was in fine shape for the climb, but stairs are worse than slopes and my knee was not happy, creaking and shifting and swelling the more I progressed. I made sure to only step up with the left knee.

We paused periodically to take in the amazing view and take pictures, so we got to the top in about 20 minutes. There, you can compare your time to statistics to see if you are an elite, expert, sportive, excursionist, or recreational user of the trail. Even if we had done it without pauses, I’m pretty sure we could not have done better than the excursionist rating (11 to 20 mins)! The elites are the ones who run the trail.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I'm not sure as it's attached to the university.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I’m not sure as it’s attached to the university.

Looking out to Isla.

Looking out to Isla.

Goat Island.

Goat Island.

Funny cactus.

Funny cactus.

View of the docks.

View of the docks.

Starting the stairs.

Starting the stairs.

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

150 steps done!

150 steps done!

Lots more steps to go...

Lots more steps to go…

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. :)

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. 🙂

We made it!

We made it!

The view from the top of the world’s tallest natural lighthouse was amazing! I could see all of Maz and beyond laid out below me. It was a fantastic way to really get a lay of the land. Dale and I couldn’t stop pointing out landmarks, from the hotels on Isla to the cathedral to the resorts in the Golden Zone. She was amused that the first thing I spotted was the Pacifico Brewery. 🙂

Looks like the Isla police station!

Looks like the Isla police station!

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

I was there!

I was there!

Really, I was there! :)

Really, I was there! 🙂

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

All of Maz laid out below us.

All of Maz laid out below us.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third to the left.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third right in the middle.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I was dressed for that.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I wasn’t dressed for that.

We eventually headed down and walked to Paseo del Centenario, which took us to Olas Altas, because Dale had finally found the Looney Bean coffee house and wanted to show it to me since I’m almost out of coffee. I can now say I’ve walked just about the entire Malecón!

First time I've seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

First time I’ve seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Castle on a hill.

Castle on a hill.

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Crashing waves.

Crashing waves.

I liked the look of this building.

I liked the look of this building.

Sweet viewing platform.

Sweet viewing platform.

More waves.

More waves.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Their address plaque says 'No number.'

Their address plaque says ‘No number.’

Icebox Hill.

Icebox Hill.

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

I've now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

I’ve now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

When we got to the Looney Bean, much forehead smacking occurred. I’ve been by it dozens of time, but when it’s been closed! You can’t see the sign unless you are on the Malecón.

The Looney Bean at last!

The Looney Bean at last!

My hope was that the Looney Bean would have coffee beans as it is a much more convenient location than Rico’s. They do! They don’t have nearly the choice (only ‘house blend’ and Chiapas) and they are more expensive, but since I save the 20-peso round trip bus ride, it’s a better deal.

One pound of Chiapas, their strongest coffee, was 120 pesos. I bought a half pound and the cost was 70 pesos. So a pound is a better deal. It takes me about three weeks to get through half a pound, so I prefer to pay a bit more and have fresh coffee. I had them coarse grind it for me. The grinds smell divine, so I’m optimistic I will like it as much as I did the Veracruz!

Because we were so hot and sticky, neither one of us was in the mood for having a coffee there (!). I suggested we head to Panamá’s bakery because I honestly thought I was going to faint from low blood sugar (yes, I had breakfast before the climb. I’ll have more about that in a later post). There, I got one of their ham, cheese, and jalapeño sandwiches and a pineapple strudel thing for 24 pesos total, a cheap and yummy lunch!

After, Dale went to the HSBC bank. We then agreed to split up as she was ready to go home and wanted to take the beach panga while I wanted to go to Waldo’s and possibly Ley’s, which put me at the village panga.

I wasn’t 100% sure where Waldo’s was from the HSBC, but I knew the general direction and got there without any detours whatsoever. I’ve definitely got the lay of the land! Waldo’s had what I wanted, inexpensive laundry detergent, so I was good to go. I was not tempted to buy any groceries (future post again), so I began the long schlep down (and up and down and up and down) Leandro Valle to Emilio Barragán to the panga to Isla to home. I was exhausted when I got home, much more so than I would have normally been after such an excurison (future post again).

Dale is leaving Isla next week and moving to the Golden Zone. I will miss my friend. I know I will still go out and do things and it’s not like we won’t meet up again, but it’s not the same. For one thing, going out in the evenings will be more expensive since I’ll have to pay for the entire pulmonía rides. But her new RV park is right on the bus line, so I know I can go visit cheaply. And, best of all, she’s thinking of going to Montana this summer and so is seriously considering a stay at RV Park Chez Rae!

I’m so glad we had a chance to do the Faro together. I don’t think it’ll be my only time making that climb!

Last Minute Lunch Date

I’ve been working on a file from hell the last couple of days that took almost twice as long to do as it should have. Even though I have another big job due tomorrow night, I’ve been typing since 6AM and decided to quit at 1:00.

I emailed Dale mid morning to see if she wanted to go for a walk on the beach. She was more in the mood to go for a beer and wanted to try the Puesta del Sol restaurant because it advertised 15 peso beers, the cheapest price we’ve seen outside a grocery store. I had planned to get chicken for lunch, so I decided to instead get food at the restaurant.

Puesta del Sol is the Gringoest restaurant on the beach in that it’s where all the tour groups go. So I don’t know why I was shocked by the English menu in U.S. dollars. I asked if they had one in pesos and was told it’s only in Spanish. Not a problem. I just like to know how much I’m spending!

Dale ordered her usual, nachos with cheese, and they were terrible! They were covered in viscous bright orange processed ‘Nacho cheese’ like you’d get at a cinema back home. Yikes! What a waste of 60 pesos!

I ordered their fish ceviche for 85 pesos and was very happy with my lunch! Thank goodness! The portion was huge, almost more than I could eat, with the fish being mixed with grated carrots and ‘cooked’ in what I think was a mixture of both lime and orange juice. It was fresh, zesty, and dang good with a pile of chips! 85 pesos felt like a good deal and not just for a Gringo restaurant, so I’m pleased.

Our Pacificos were, indeed, only 15 pesos. So we would definitely go back to Puesta del Sol for a drink, but not for nachos!

Monday Night at La Chupiteria in Mazatlán

Dale’s friend Rob plays at La Chupiteria on Paseo Claussen, just north of Angel Flores, on Monday nights. Long-term Mazatlecos would know this location as being the former Canucks bar.

We left my place just past six and took our time getting there, winding and wending our way through the historical district so that we could stick to well populated areas. I was thrilled to pass ‘my’ ice cream guy, whom I haven’t seen in ages because I’ve been going to Maz too early or too late. I tried a new flavour, green, and can’t remember what he said it is. I’m not sure why, but I only got charged 15 pesos!

La Chupiteria is a lovely location across from the Malecón. The decor is splendid. I took lots of photos, but I haven’t mastered my iPhone camera since these two were the only ones that sort of came out. 🙁

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The ceiling was gorgeous!

The band was playing sock hop/rock 'n roll stuff from the '50s and '60s.

The band was playing sock hop/rock ‘n roll stuff from the ’50s and ’60s.

Before the music started, we walked around the back part where there were a few vendors. I’ve been looking for a certain style of apron and found exactly what I wanted for only 120 pesos (handmade by a group of 11 women sewing their way out of poverty, so I would not haggle), but I hadn’t brought that much cash with me. I doubt they are going to sell out and I’ll try them again another week.

The music was really good and lots of people got on the dance floor. Dale and I tapped to the beat, but did not venture out. I’m used to being the youngest in the crowd, but it was particularly noticeable last night!

Dale is a very slow drinker and I like my beer cold. So I drank two to her one. Total cost for three beers was 75 pesos! While I had a good evening at La Chupiteria, it would not be my first choice of place to get a beer in Maz since they charge 25 pesos. It’s been my experience that a beer is 20 pesos in Maz and 25 on Isla, so La Chupiteria is a more expensive place to drink. I know, I know, five pesos isn’t much, but it’s the principle of the thing.

We then walked down to Olas Altas to look for the Looney Bean coffee shop and can’t find it. Dale is sure she’s seen it. We are confused.

From Olas Altas, we headed to Plazuela Machado and stopped en route at the Panamá bakery to get some treats for the road. I got a savoury jalepeño-y bun thing that had a thin layer of ham and cheese in it, very yummy!, and a pineapple filled thing. 24 pesos for a small late supper, not bad! Dale and I are huge fans of Panamá’s as the pastries are super cheap, always fresh, and we’ve never had a bad one! This was our first time at this location; we usually go to the one between the Mercado and the cathedral.

My night soured when I got home to find no internet, hence the lateness of this post. More on that in my next post!