Sometimes, You Gotta Run All Over Town

Today’s errands were to go to the bank, get coffee, and come home with chicken. Unless I wanted to bring my chicken back from the northern end of town (no), I had quite the route ahead of me. Red is what I walked, blue is the first bus I took, and green is the second bus I took. The whole thing represents 20KM of travel.

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I started by going up to Rico’s in the Golden Zone for coffee. This will likely be my last trip for that… 🙁 It was very slow going and standing room only on a very crowded bus that lurched through nearly standstill traffic. Thankfully, a gentleman offered me his seat. As we inched our way north, I was glad that I’d decided to postpone a trip to the Mercado first since I’d gotten a late start and would never have had a chance to get to the bank before it closed at 4:00.

The Golden Zone was hopping as there is a motorcycle rally this weekend. But, surprisingly, Rico’s was almost empty. I was out of there in record time. I then crossed the street to get a bus back, but thought to do a little window shopping instead.  That was a dumb idea. The vendors were way too aggressive, even worse than in the Mercado, and prices were inflated. I gave up and went to a bus stop to grab the bus back down to get off a block past the Domino’s and casino to reach to the Scotiabank on EjĂ©rcito MĂ©xicano, but…

I waited and I waited and I waited. And then I waited some more. Traffic was insanely slow, which didn’t help. When I saw a little local bus marked Plaza Ley, that was good enough for me as it would get me to within about 2.5KM of Scotiabank. I wasn’t saving any time by far, but it would at least get me away from the traffic and give me what might be my last nickel tour of Maz.

The bus did its lurching route and after we passed the Ley del Mar I suspected, correctly, that we would be turning left on Insurgentes, my cue to get off. I did, debated getting on another bus to get me to the bank, checked the time, and decided to hoof it. That would mean a hike of about 4KM to the embarcadero, plus another KM or so on this side, a perfectly reasonable distance.

I reached the bank at 3:38, 22 minutes to closing. There were two people ahead of me in line for the ATM, so by the time I got into the booth, it was almost 3:45. I had 12,000MXN in my account and could withdraw up to 700CAD, so I requested 8,000MXN. The machine would not give them to me. I’ve heard that there is a withdrawal limit of 7,000MXN per transaction, but Scotiabank won’t let you take out odd numbers. So I had to take out $6,000 and then another $2,000. Thankfully, I’m not paying for each transaction!

It was just pas 3:50 when I was finally able to queue inside to see a teller. There were 37 people ahead of me in line. Yes, I counted. I had a sneaking suspicion that the doors would shut at 4:00 and whomever wasn’t being served would be kicked out. I decided I didn’t need small bills that badly when I heard a teller call for the lady with glasses on her head. I looked around and realised that she very likely meant me! I pointed to myself and she mimed for me to go to her window!

She greeted me with “How much would you like to change today?” Then, she asked me for my name, gave me hers, and said that from now on, I can cut ahead and go to her as soon as she’s free! Wow! I probably only have one more withdrawal to make here, but I’ll definitely take her up on that when it happens. I have no idea why I was able to get ahead in the queue and judging from the stares I got, I don’t think this is normal… But I was very happy! It would have really sucked to walk away without my smaller bills after the trip and a half I took to get to the bank by closing time!

Then, I headed to the embarcadero, stopping to get two roasted chickens for $120 along the way. They smelled like heaven and I was happy to tuck into them when I got in. I hadn’t thought I’d be that late and hadn’t had lunch, silly me. I have plenty of leftovers for the next couple of days, too, of course!

El acuario de MazatlĂĄn (Aquarium), Redux

My friend Sue is leaving on Friday and hadn’t been to the aquarium yet, so I proposed that we squeeze in a visit this week. Thankfully, she found some time to do so! I really enjoyed the aquarium last year and looked forward to seeing how it had, or hadn’t, changed this year.

We met at the embarcadero on this side around 9:30 and grabbed a pulmonĂ­a since we would have had to walk fully halfway to grab a bus.

The admission price had gone up from $100 to $115. I thought $100 last year was decent value so I assured Sue that as long as we got in at least one show, we’d get our money’s worth.

The biggest changes I noticed were the addition of sharks and the deletion of most of the tortoises as well as the ostrich. There were also extra shows. We were able to take in all four, and they were in rapid succession! The aquarium was packed and you could only attend a show if you had the right coloured ticket.

We did a tour inside before the first show. The big skeleton was labeled this year and as it turns out, it’s a grey whale.

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I liked how all the bones were labeled to show the similarities with humans.

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I liked the detail of this pelican skeleton with a fish in its beak.

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Iguana with a long tail.

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Sharks.

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Lion fish.

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I was hungry and these guys looked delicious.

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Seahorses.

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This guy looked a little deformed…

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We went outside after so Sue could get a sense of the gardens and zoo pens. Crocodiles:

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Deer.

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We headed back inside for the first show, called “buceo,” which means dive. It was a quick thing of a guy going into the “shark tank” and swimming with the fish. He got hold of the shark and took it around for everyone to get a good look. He was quite entertaining and I learned a few things about sharks that I have, of course, forgotten already. 🙂 The audio was echoey and difficult to understand so I’m glad there was lots of visual entertainment!

We then went back out and passed these beautiful black swans. Hmm. I don’t think they were there last year!

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Sue’s highlight of the day was the tiger. We did a special trip back to his pen before heading home.

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I then showed Sue how to get into the two aviaries where you can walk around.

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We were impressed by what the animals were fed. Lots of fresh stuff.

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Imposing pelican.

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Ducks. I suddenly remembered that I got bitten by a duck when I was in Scotland. I do not recommend the experience. It didn’t break the skin, but I did get a big bruise!

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Magnificent peacock. They are starting to grow on me.

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Very chatty parrots.

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I think this was a prairie dog, or relative thereof.

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The next show was about predators. We saw snakes, lizards, and a variety of birds. I wanted to volunteer to go hold a boa, but I was way too far up in the crowd to be a viable candidate. 🙁 This one was a lot of fun even if I couldn’t understand a lot of the information presented.

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I liked the owl. The Spanish word sounds like their call, bĂșjo.

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A sign that I spotted before going into the parrot show. “If at night you cry for the sun, you will never see the stars.”

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Sue helpfully volunteered me at the parrot show. Here I am doing the chicken dance.

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And attempting to dance La Macarena (that takes me WAY back!).

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But I was rewarded with getting two hold TWO parrots! Blue guy on my shoulder, red guy on my head (sharp talons, both of them!). I had a red macaw when I was a kid. This was a cute show, with the parrots doing a few tricks.

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Next stop was the sea lion show, for which I didn’t get any pictures for some reason. While entertaining, it was nowhere near as long or as good as last year’s show, probably because they had to pack in more viewings. I would have been disappointed if that was all we got to see today, but when you add this show to the other three, we really got a lot of value for our tickets!

Sue went to see the tigers one last time and I spent some time with the snakes, iguanas, and and frogs. I’ll spare you the pictures. 🙂

Except of one of the meals… Again, I was really impressed by how well fed the animals are. I do have an issue with the idea of zoos, but they are a valuable tool for education. I think the Maz aquarium does a satisfactory job of taking care of its critters, with clean cages, toys, human interaction, and a good diet.

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We headed out around 1:00 and went up to Avenida del Mar for a sushi lunch! Sue doesn’t do raw fish, but was very open to cooked Mexican-style rolls. We split chicken teriyaki, a Miami roll (crab, cream cheese, mango), and a California roll (shrimp, cream cheese, cucumber). The server assumed we’d want the larger versions of the rolls, so there was a mountain of food! Since it’s a cool day and we were coming home straight away, I took the leftovers. I was pleased that Sue really enjoyed her meal since I’m always nervous about taking someone to eat sushi, even when I have no intention of passing the “real” stuff off to them. Even with the error of our rolls being super sized, we only paid $175 each, and that was with a very generous tip. I much prefer eating this stuff with another person since we can get more variety.

It was a great day out with a good friend. Thanks for coming along, Sue!

The Last Ride

Today was my last ride on the beach. 🙁 It was just Sue and me. We cantered a tiny bit, but were content to mostly just amble and talk. She leaves on Friday and we have one more activity planned before then.

I came in ravenous and with no pressing workload, so I pulled on a pretty dress and headed to town for lunch on the MalecĂłn. For the first time ever, I decided to take a pulmonĂ­a there. I almost burst out laughing when the driver quoted me $70, telling him he was crazy and that I could get to Mega for less than that. Suitably chastened, he dropped the price to $50, which still felt steep, but was acceptable. We had a nice conversation on the way there and when we pulled up to the restaurant, I had to gently refuse his marriage proposal. I think that was my fourth one this winter… 😉

El Fish Market impressed me so much the first time I went that there was nowhere else to consider today since I wanted something special. I opted for the “brochetas mixtas” (mixed brochettes) with sweet peppers, onion, shrimp, chunks of salmon and mahi-mahi, and “callos,” which turned out to be scallops! I declined the potatoes and asked for some tortillas instead. Not a problem and… the chef subbed a lovely salad of romaine, tomato, onion, cucumber, and lots of avocado! Wow! I hadn’t seen a salad on the menu that seemed “subbable” for potatoes, so I’m glad it’s an option. There was some of their really good coleslaw and, surprise, they make their tortillas in-house on a comal. I am certain of this because they are just like the ones I make at home, drier and charred around the edges, and puffy in the middle almost like a pita. The fish and seafood were fantastic and very generously portioned. Two people could have had a decent lunch of this if they had the potatoes instead of salad. I added a cold Pacifico and a generous tip to come out having spent $220 (17CAD). Might as well enjoy the good life while it’s affordable!

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I then meandered my way back to the embaracadero, popping in at Ley for a few sundries.

I’ve got less than a month left…

Savour the Moment

Semana Santa has come around again. Isla is so busy, but, again, it’s not rowdy. It’s a family friendly atmosphere ripe for entrepreneurs. Even yours truly joined in on the action and rented out parking spots in her yard! 😀

This was the beach this past Saturday (the 19th of March):

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And this was the beach on Friday (the 25th of March):

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This is an interesting time of the year where most of the Gringos have gone home and the beach belongs to Mexican nationals. But I live here and don’t feel like an interloper. I like to steal a moment a day to soak in the atmosphere on the beach, get a treat, and do some people watching. Because I know I can retreat to my quiet, almost secluded, home, I can be revitalised rather than drained by all the energy that comes here.

After visiting the botanical gardens on Friday, Sue and I went back to my place so I could pick up my wallet, then we headed to her place via the beach in search of a BBQed chicken to split. There were lots of stands along Calle Principal, but she prefers the shorter beach route and knew that there was a chicken stand along the ATV access route near her place. $100 got us a chicken that was divided up into two containers as well as a pile of tortillas each and a mountain of grilled onions (which Sue doesn’t like, so I got them all, yum!) and some grilled jalapeños. She offered to buy me a beer, so we went and sat at a little makeshift bar overlooking the beach. I’ve been on a light diet the last few days, so I tucked into my chicken so I wouldn’t be drinking on an empty stomach.

The moment was magic, with the sunlight hitting the water and bouncing off all the coloured umbrellas. This was a moment to savour. You never know the turns your life will make, when the bitter will turn sweet or the sweet bitter.

We talked about that and watershed moments of our lives. Ten years ago, I was living a perfectly ordinary life and starting to think of marriage and children with the man I was dating. But fate happened and we went our own ways. Now, he’s married with a child and I can’t imagine myself in that situation, but I don’t feel bereft or like I’ve lost anything. It’s just one of those moments of my life where I can clearly see the road diverging between the life I chose and the life that could have been. I own my choices, I accept that I can’t do everything, and as long as I keep moving forward and bettering myself, I refuse to mourn what could have been and instead focus on what I’ve accomplished.

Sue said that she couldn’t have imagined herself here eight years ago. Me neither. And yet where was I in March of 2008? On a gorgeous beach escaping the winter for the first time in my life… And then I spent three disappointing winters in British Columbia before running out of steam and wintering in Lethbridge. I couldn’t see the way forward then, thought I was at a pause, and yet, it was the beginning of the end of yet another chapter in my life. I bought Haven, had a major accident, and many meanderings later, found myself on yet another beach thinking the good times had finally come. A year later, I was wintering in an RV in Saskatchewan. It would have been easy to see that as a setback, to fall into depression and be convinced that there was nothing ahead of me. But I kept my focus and where did I end up spending the next two winters? Right here, on Isla de la Piedra, Mexico. Every setback that eventually led me here was worth it.

Who knows where I will be next winter. Right now, I’m thinking Greece, Portugal, or northern Africa, but I know better than to set my Path in stone. I have an idea of where I’m going and where I’d like to end up, but I’m open to what the vagaries of fate have in store for me. What’s important is that I’m excited about the journey.

It’s been a decade now since the last full year where I felt trapped, where I couldn’t see a way out of the mind numbing routine and ordinariness of my life. Where I was surrounded by people who liked their lives that way, so predictable that they could accurately guess where they would be ten, twenty, even fifty years out, and who made me feel like I was broken for wanting something different. I feel like I was born in the fall of my 29th year, that this is when I started to live the life that was meant for me. Even though I’m snowbirding now rather than RVing, I still very much feel like “Rae from Travels With Miranda,” like I’m still continuing on that same Path.

Leaving Ottawa in the RV in September of 2008 was another one of those major divergent points in my life and I rather feel like I’m on the cusp of another one. I know that if I go back to Europe for the first time in nearly twenty years, a floodgate of new opportunities will open that could derail my plan to move to MĂ©rida. I recognise that. And much as I’m excited about the move to MĂ©rida, I’m willing to jeopardise it for this new adventure I’m considering. Because I can’t do everything, but I must do something and that something cannot be another summer at Haven. That is all I know for certain right now.

Afoot and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.

Henceforth I ask not good-fortune—I myself am good fortune;
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more, need nothing,
Strong and content, I travel the open road.

Familiarity

After work today, I needed to go to town to get something desserty for a potluck tonight as well as do a decent shop since I hadn’t done so yet this month. I decided to go check out the Soriana on Insurgentes.

I had no sooner bought my lancha ticket that it blew away in a strong gust of wind! The captain called to me to not worry about it and to just get on board. Upon disembarkation he told me to tell the ticket guy that the ticket blew away. He used a new verb that I didn’t know, so I just said to the ticket guy, “He perdido mi boleto en el viento” (I lost my ticket in the wind). He waved me away saying, “My God, I know you, go on!” That’s one lovely thing about living somewhere for any length of time, people start to know you.

But there’s another point to my telling this story. I said “he perdido.” I had dinner at Miguel’s last night and said the same thing about my old pendant to Angela when she commented on my new octopus pendant. She commented on the fact that I had a “new” verb tense and used it correctly. And today, I had a very long and involved discussion with my landlady and she also commented on my using this verb form, although I can’t remember what I said. Think about it, two people I speak with a lot both noticed in the span of less than 24 hours that I’d had a linguistic breakthrough. Fascinating!

Verbs in English are conjugated very differently than they are in Spanish. But Spanish and French verbs are conjugated similarly. So when I’m writing in Spanish, the best way for me to get verb practice, I always think about how I would say it in French and look for the equivalent verb tense in Spanish.

This new verb tense I’ve started using is called the “passĂ© composĂ©” in French and is in French the most common tense to use when speaking about things you did in the past. There is a more formal way called the “passĂ© simple” that is very commonly used in Spanish and my teachers encouraged me to use that tense rather than the “passĂ© composĂ©.” Instead of saying “he perdido” I could have said “perdĂ­.” Because it was drilled into me to favour the simple form, I completely forgot about the composed form that is much easier to remember. All this time I thought I didn’t have a past tense, it was actually locked away tightly in my brain! Perhaps now that I’m not having to search for so many words, my brain is able to focus on conjugations. Whatever is going on with my grey matter, I am really pleased!

From the embarcadero, I headed off to Juan Carrasco to get a bus. There was one marked “Ley del mar” waiting at a red light that I knew would take me to a block of Soriana. Perfect! So much more convenient than going to the Soriana on Rafael Buelna. Too bad it took me so long to figure that out! 🙁

The ride was long, hot, bumpy, unpleasant, and cramped. The seats on the “local” bus are so close together that I cannot sit normally in them as my femurs are longer than the space to the back of the seat in front of me. If I have a row to myself, I have to sit at a diagonal. If someone sits next to me. I have to half stand. Not the most fun way to ride across town.

We finally made it to the corner of Insurgentes and a game of Frogger later, I was in the mall. This is one of the larger Sorianas that has a food court outside (Mexican, sushi, pizza, Chinese), so I grabbed a slice of pizza before doing my shopping. As I started to wander the aisles of this Soriana, I once again regretted how much time I’ve wasted at the much smaller one on Rafael Buelna. There were so many more food products, on top of everything you could need for your home, similar to Mega, but with better prices. I did a really good shop and marveled as I piled meat, cheese, and even kale into my cart that I had $1,200 on me and wasn’t stressed about having enough money not only to pay for my groceries, but to take taxis home. Sure enough, my total was only about $800 (62CAD), and that included the $110 worth of pastries I bought for the potluck.

The lineup at checkout was interminable. The lady in front of me did a lot of justified sighing and eye rolling. I finally said to her, “I think we’re sleeping here tonight,” and she roared with laughter. The ice broken, we chatted a bit until it was finally her turn to get processed.

I was able to get a taxi right away when I came out, another improvement, and was quoted $60, but I was able to get the ride for $50. The driver did help me a lot with my mountain of bags, so I paid him the $60 and he was very grateful for that. He took me through the expected JuĂĄrez route that never fails to make me realise just how small my MazatlĂĄn is. Most Gringos stick to the Golden Zone, Centro, and Isla de la Piedra (circled in red below), using taxis and buses to go between those areas. My Maz also includes, roughly, the area circled in blue, and I walk between it and the red zones in addition to taking public transportation. But even so, look how much more Maz there is beyond. I could have extended the blue circle a bit to the yellow line that is Mex-15, since I do shop along there the odd time I’m out with the truck. I’m always happy when I meet other Gringos who go beyond the red areas and know about the other grocery stores, the market in JuĂĄrez, and the local bus routes.

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The package guy at the embarcadero was available to help me get everything to the lancha and I was able to get everything up to the road on this side, where I got a taxi.

Upon arriving home, the driver noticed my truck and asked if it worked. I said yes, but it’s so much faster to go to Maz with public transportation (if I take a taxi both ways on the other side and walk both ways on this side, I can get groceries in an hour flat round trip provided I don’t have a long lancha wait. It would be at least an hour and a half to drive to a grocery store round trip, plus add in the time to shop!). He then asked if he could make me an offer on the truck! That is two people who have wanted to buy Moya this winter! It’s too bad that I can’t.

One of the two guys making an offer knows about the temporary import rules and told me, “Don’t worry. I will  give you a piece of the windshield with the hologram on it so you can report that your truck got totaled and you won’t be penalised for leaving it behind!” Yeah. I’m just not the kind of person who would take that sort of risk. I really don’t want to jeopardise my ability to return to Mexico with a vehicle.

But it tells me that if I bring my truck to MĂ©rida, my favoured plan at this point, I won’t have any trouble selling it, even if just for parts or scrap. As it turns out, the nearby state of Quintana Roo is entirely a “free zone,” so I would be able to turn in my TIP and then legally dispose of my truck near the Belize border. So that opens my options considerably.

This was a really good shopping run, very smooth and efficient time-wise except for the long wait at the checkout. I look forward to starting over with this sort of education when I get to MĂ©rida next year. 🙂