Mutual Trust

My landlady and her husband just left from fixing my toilet. Well, he fixed it and she and I gabbed. She was quite impressed by my report about the Road and was devastated to see the state of the ceiling in the bathroom. I’d told her that rain came in and caused the paint to start flaking, but the impact of this didn’t hit her till she saw the damage.

My relation with my dueña has been very good. We don’t have any sort of written agreement, but with a bit of give and take on both sides, this business relationship works. She trusts me that the rent will show up at some point and I trust that repairs will be done in a timely manner. She pays the gas and power bills to make sure service isn’t cut off and I don’t balk and reimburse her as soon as I can. And, of course, she got internet in and handles all inquiries related to that while I do my best to keep her house clean and neat and alert her of problems.

Unfortunately, the yardmate situation has been terrible. I like the house, the location, the price, and get along well with my landlady, but I’ll confess that there have been many times since the yardmate arrived in December that I have thought of moving because of her. She is also the reason I hesitated in committing to the idea of coming back to this house, with the fear that the yardmate had the same thought.

But I’ve heard through the grapevine that the yardmate is going to look for other accommodation if she comes back to Isla next year and this makes me very happy. I’ve decided not to say much more about the yardmate because I don’t want to sink to her level.

I want to come back to this house because it works for me, the kinks with the landlady are worked out, and I’ll know I’ll have good internet within a few days of arrival. It just doesn’t seem worth my time to look for a more architecturally interesting building, something cheaper, or even something quieter.

I’ve been a homeowner for more than half of my adult life and I have to say that there are real perks to being a tenant — like not having to fix your own leaky toilet. 😀

Out and About In Mazatlán

I covered a lot of ground today!

Even though I had work to do today, I took the afternoon off to visit my friend Dale who has moved to the Mar Rosa trailer park in the Golden Zone. I left around 11:45, took the panga, and walked to the Malecón to catch a bus.

En route, I passed a licuado (milkshake) bar that also did fresh juices, so I stopped and bought a ‘small’ grapefruit juice. I think it had the juice of four whole grapefruits in it! It was really hot, I’d been walking for more than a mile, and the water I’d brought wasn’t cutting it. The juice did the trick!

A bus zoomed by me just as I arrived at Camarón Sabalo, the boulevard that parallels the Malecón, so I walked a few blocks to the first dedicated bus stop with shade and a bench to wait for the next one. It was a very long wait, more than 15 minutes, which surprised me.

After that, it was stop and go all the way to the RV park. I thought it was further past my cousin’s hotel than it was, so I would have missed it had a bunch of people not gotten off there, too. Not that it would have been a huge deal to miss it since I did see the sign for it as we passed, so I could have had the driver stop as soon as it was safe to do so and doubled back on foot.

Mar Rosa is a pretty nice RV park with a good location. It has high walls, so it’s not as noisy as you’d expect. The caveat is that it is super tight to navigate. It’s really a small rig park, although some bigger rigs wiggle their way in.

Dale's full-time home!

Dale’s full-time home!

What a gorgeous rig!

What a gorgeous rig!

This is the kind of RV I'm thinking of moving to, a rugged camper van that could handle rough roads.

This is the kind of RV I’m thinking of moving to, a rugged camper van that could handle rough roads.

Dale wanted to have lunch and suggested a nearby restaurant with cheap, basic, good food, which sounded fine to me. I am not going to name the restaurant because I want to share something funny and don’t want to get them into trouble. You see, they served us beer, but billed us for chocolate milks, which tells me they were not licensed…

And this what they served us for 30 pesos each:

This cup held TWO 355mL beers.

This cup held TWO 355mL beers.

It’s a good thing Pacific is a fairly low alcohol content beer or we would have fallen asleep!

I ordered their 30 peso hamburger and was served a cheeseburger (not complaining). That burger was SO GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I like hamburgers with seasoning in the patty and this one had plenty of flavour. The bun was also good and there was no pickle relish, but there were sweet pickles, and they had mustard. The Golden Zone still isn’t a place I’d want to stay, but it’s getting more and more worthy of a visit. 🙂

Meh fries and a burger worth going all the way to the Golden Zone for!!!

Meh fries and a burger worth going all the way to the Golden Zone for!!! I’ll skip the fries next time.

After lunch, we walked down to Rico’s Cafe so I could get coffee. I never did get used to the Looney Bean stuff, finding it too weak for my tastes. I bought a full pound of Rico’s Veracruz beans, coarse ground, for an absurd 128 pesos. I used to pay almost $20 per HALF pound of beans when I lived in Gatineau.

Then, Dale and I went back to Mar Rosa so I could see the beach. It is quite different from our Isla beach, especially in the sand. I think the difference is that we’re rather sheltered and this is more open ocean.

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The sand was black. Very curious.

The sand was black. Very curious.

I got in plenty of cuddle time with her Boys:

Chester, who is about seven, and very affectionate. He's always glad to see me. I just called his name and he posed for me.

Chester, who is about seven, and very affectionate. He’s always glad to see me. I just called his name and he posed for me.

Beamer (as in the car) is about twelve. He also turned his head when I called him.

Beamer (as in the car) is about twelve. He also turned his head when I called him.

Chester found shade under my legs, LOL. He's licking my ankles in this shot!

Chester found shade under my dress, LOL! He’s licking my ankles in this shot!

Dale offered to drive me back to the panga! Wow, what a treat! She’s been driving around and is comfortable going to certain places. I told her I wanted to hit the Ley and she said that was fine or she could take me to Mega or Walmart if I preferred. I accepted that offer and we headed off to Soriana. I’ve never been to a Mega, but I know that Soriana’s prices are better, and I prefer to support a Mexican company. Getting to Soriana was very easy since it’s on Rafael Buelna, which terminates at Camarón Sabalo, and more of a detour than Mega, but on the way to Walmart.

I didn’t have much money for groceries and hadn’t brought cloth bags or ice packs, so I wasn’t tempted to get a ton of stuff, but I did look at the offerings, marveling at seeing things like HUMMUS. Dale found my shock at the low prices hilarious. For example, 18 pesos for a giant box of peppermint tea?! I came home with it!

Navigating a Mexican grocery store now comes more naturally than the first time I tried it seven years ago in Tijuana. I remember being in the Gigante, famished, and wanting to buy some pan dulce, but not understanding how the process worked and being too overwhelmed to ask.

To buy baked goods in Mexico, you need to grab a tray and tongs. You then select what you want and bring the tray to a weigh station where it will be bagged and priced. Baked goods are so cheap that you will be tempted to get one of everything, but remember that they don’t use preservatives, so your goodies will only be good for a few days!

All I bought today were four rolls, but it was hard not to walk out with some pan chocolate (chocolate croissants)! 🙂

When we had come into the store, I took the sales flier, just like I would get in a CDN or US grocery store, and saw that the big Lala yoghurts were half price. So I headed to the dairy section next and got the last mango one!

I picked up a few more things, including Post-It notes from their office supply section because I way under packed my office! Unfortunately, they were out of paper clips. Dale was amused that I completely blanked out on the English word for those. I have no idea of the Spanish word either. I just knew I wanted trombones…

I came out of there loaded down with toilet paper, cheese, yoghurt, bacon, fresh bread, butter, and a few other goodies for 274 pesos. I continue to find prices here absurd. 🙂

And speaking of butter, I really do think I’ve solved the Mexican butter issue. As long as you buy it ‘sin sal’ (no salt), you will get butter like back home, not the movie popcorn tasting stuff!

Now comes a good example of what makes Dale and me such a strong team. I knew what road to take to get to the embarcadero, but not how to get to the road. Dale knew how to get to this road, but did not know it would take us to the embarcadero! So between the two of us, we made it to the panga easily. It’s wonderful to know my way around now!

My bags were awkward for the walk home when I arrived on Isla and I was really glad to get in. I really do want to do a big Soriana trip next week and while I had planned on a pulmonía ride to the panga on the Maz side, I think I will add one on this side, too. Yes, I could take my truck to the embarcadero, but getting it out of this yard is such a pain that I’d rather pay the 30 or so pesos instead!

Well, I’d better get to work. Going to be another late night, but I then I can sleep in tomorrow. I have work through the weekend, but they won’t be long days. I put in a lot of extra hours this week because I was paid bonus money, which really made taking the workload worth my time!

El Faro de Mazatlán (the Lighthouse)

Well, I got my exercise in today. Here’s a rough overview of the bit of walking I did, which does not highlight the fact that the trip included climbing 150m (492 feet), including 339 steps.

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Dale and I had wanted to climb El Faro (the lighthouse) since we first heard about it. She did it with a group of friends recently and was keen to show me how to get there. We waited this long to make sure we were in decent enough shape as it’s quite a hike up, never mind actually walking to the start of the trek and then back again. I’ve been walking the beach daily for weeks and have start running again, just two or three kilometres three times a week. So that in combination with how well I did hiking in Utah, I knew the Faro wasn’t going to be that much of a challenge.

I met Dale on the beach at 8:00 this morning and we walked to the beach panga. I only paid one way since I had errands to run downtown that would bring me closer to the village panga for the trip home.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Doesn't the lighthouse look imposing?

Doesn’t the lighthouse look imposing?

From the Maz side, it was a pretty quick walk by the docks to get to the start of the lighthouse trail. The streets were very busy and there weren’t really any sidewalks, so we had to watch where we were going. I found the start of the bus route that terminates in the Golden Zone.

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You'd work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You’d work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

The lighthouse trail starts of gently with an ascent along a rutty path. It then becomes challenging when you reach the first of the 339 steps. This is the only way to get to the Faro, on foot. It’s an incredible amount of work to get there if the point isn’t to get exercise. On the way down, we passed painters going up and they looked in pain, one carrying a huge bucket of paint, another the ladder, another the miscellaneous equipment!

Access to the Faro. Don't let it fool you, pedestrians only!

Access to the Faro. Don’t let the entrance fool you, pedestrians only!

The path gets rough very fast.

The path gets rough very fast.

I was in fine shape for the climb, but stairs are worse than slopes and my knee was not happy, creaking and shifting and swelling the more I progressed. I made sure to only step up with the left knee.

We paused periodically to take in the amazing view and take pictures, so we got to the top in about 20 minutes. There, you can compare your time to statistics to see if you are an elite, expert, sportive, excursionist, or recreational user of the trail. Even if we had done it without pauses, I’m pretty sure we could not have done better than the excursionist rating (11 to 20 mins)! The elites are the ones who run the trail.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I'm not sure as it's attached to the university.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I’m not sure as it’s attached to the university.

Looking out to Isla.

Looking out to Isla.

Goat Island.

Goat Island.

Funny cactus.

Funny cactus.

View of the docks.

View of the docks.

Starting the stairs.

Starting the stairs.

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

150 steps done!

150 steps done!

Lots more steps to go...

Lots more steps to go…

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. :)

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. 🙂

We made it!

We made it!

The view from the top of the world’s tallest natural lighthouse was amazing! I could see all of Maz and beyond laid out below me. It was a fantastic way to really get a lay of the land. Dale and I couldn’t stop pointing out landmarks, from the hotels on Isla to the cathedral to the resorts in the Golden Zone. She was amused that the first thing I spotted was the Pacifico Brewery. 🙂

Looks like the Isla police station!

Looks like the Isla police station!

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

I was there!

I was there!

Really, I was there! :)

Really, I was there! 🙂

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

All of Maz laid out below us.

All of Maz laid out below us.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third to the left.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third right in the middle.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I was dressed for that.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I wasn’t dressed for that.

We eventually headed down and walked to Paseo del Centenario, which took us to Olas Altas, because Dale had finally found the Looney Bean coffee house and wanted to show it to me since I’m almost out of coffee. I can now say I’ve walked just about the entire Malecón!

First time I've seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

First time I’ve seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Castle on a hill.

Castle on a hill.

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Crashing waves.

Crashing waves.

I liked the look of this building.

I liked the look of this building.

Sweet viewing platform.

Sweet viewing platform.

More waves.

More waves.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Their address plaque says 'No number.'

Their address plaque says ‘No number.’

Icebox Hill.

Icebox Hill.

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

I've now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

I’ve now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

When we got to the Looney Bean, much forehead smacking occurred. I’ve been by it dozens of time, but when it’s been closed! You can’t see the sign unless you are on the Malecón.

The Looney Bean at last!

The Looney Bean at last!

My hope was that the Looney Bean would have coffee beans as it is a much more convenient location than Rico’s. They do! They don’t have nearly the choice (only ‘house blend’ and Chiapas) and they are more expensive, but since I save the 20-peso round trip bus ride, it’s a better deal.

One pound of Chiapas, their strongest coffee, was 120 pesos. I bought a half pound and the cost was 70 pesos. So a pound is a better deal. It takes me about three weeks to get through half a pound, so I prefer to pay a bit more and have fresh coffee. I had them coarse grind it for me. The grinds smell divine, so I’m optimistic I will like it as much as I did the Veracruz!

Because we were so hot and sticky, neither one of us was in the mood for having a coffee there (!). I suggested we head to Panamá’s bakery because I honestly thought I was going to faint from low blood sugar (yes, I had breakfast before the climb. I’ll have more about that in a later post). There, I got one of their ham, cheese, and jalapeño sandwiches and a pineapple strudel thing for 24 pesos total, a cheap and yummy lunch!

After, Dale went to the HSBC bank. We then agreed to split up as she was ready to go home and wanted to take the beach panga while I wanted to go to Waldo’s and possibly Ley’s, which put me at the village panga.

I wasn’t 100% sure where Waldo’s was from the HSBC, but I knew the general direction and got there without any detours whatsoever. I’ve definitely got the lay of the land! Waldo’s had what I wanted, inexpensive laundry detergent, so I was good to go. I was not tempted to buy any groceries (future post again), so I began the long schlep down (and up and down and up and down) Leandro Valle to Emilio Barragán to the panga to Isla to home. I was exhausted when I got home, much more so than I would have normally been after such an excurison (future post again).

Dale is leaving Isla next week and moving to the Golden Zone. I will miss my friend. I know I will still go out and do things and it’s not like we won’t meet up again, but it’s not the same. For one thing, going out in the evenings will be more expensive since I’ll have to pay for the entire pulmonía rides. But her new RV park is right on the bus line, so I know I can go visit cheaply. And, best of all, she’s thinking of going to Montana this summer and so is seriously considering a stay at RV Park Chez Rae!

I’m so glad we had a chance to do the Faro together. I don’t think it’ll be my only time making that climb!

Good Coffee at Long Last

Rico’s Cafe is just a couple of block’s from my cousin’s hotel and is run by an American. My cousin is even more of a coffee snob than I am and raved about the coffee and all the beans she was bringing home, so I was eager try it out! Coffee was one place I was not too snobby or cheap to deal with in Gringoland because Mexicans just don’t have a coffee culture.

She had a 16 oz drip coffee with a shot of espresso and I went for just the drip coffee. They make it in a manner similar to a French press, so you get a mouthful of grinds at the end if you’re not careful, something I’m used since I’ve been doing French press coffee for so long.

The coffee wasn’t fantastic, but it was still the best coffee I’ve had since finishing up my Canadian coffee way back in October! It had so much potential, but there was a bit of a soapy taste to it, for lack of a better description, probably something to do with how they wash their cups. Not enough to be off putting or to stop me from enjoying it, but it wasn’t the perfect cup of coffee I’d been expecting this morning.  Still, it was a huge step above anything I’ve had in months and I savoured every mouthful!

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I then put in an order for beans, with my cousin recommending Veracruz dark roast. I got half a pound for about 68 pesos and had them grind them for me. The smell of the beans through the bag was divine. I couldn’t stop smelling it all the way home!

I’m enjoying a cup of it now and trying not to weep with joy. 🙂 Oh, real coffee at very long last. I hope that what I get at the more convenient Olas Altas café I was recommended will be just as good, but at least now I know that, worst case, I can get coffee for 28 pesos round trip! 🙂

Oh, and two giant coffees (one with a shot of espresso) and a bag of beans was just 142 pesos! I used to pay almost 20CAD for an equivalent amount of beans in Gatineau!

Taking the Bus in Mazatlán

Today, I took another step to becoming a Mazatleca, I took the bus! Finally!

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The water level was very high this morning!

I left home at about 7:00 and was to meet my cousin between 8:00 and 8:30 at her hotel, which gave me quite a bit of time to walk to a bus, wait for a bus, and then walk from wherever I ended up to the hotel. I was told to take the Sábalo-Centro route, which essentially goes between the Mercado Piño Suarez and the northernmost tip of Mazatlán, along the Malecón and through the Golden Zone.

It was the same distance to walk from the embarcadero to the mercado or to the Malecón at the fishermen’s monument using Gutiérrez Nájera, so I decided to go the later route, figuring it would be easier to identify a bus going towards the Golden Zone.

I’ve seen a few bus stops in Maz, but not many, and certainly not along the Malecón. It looks like a lot of people just hail them down wherever the bus can safely stop. I walked for a few minutes until I saw a bunch of people loitering around a pole and figured that that had to be a bus stop or, at least, a place where the bus could stop safely. Indeed. The driver was quite put upon to tell me the fare (10 pesos versus up to 120 to take a pulmonía!), so I was glad I didn’t have to rely on him to help me figure out where to get off.

The bus was just like any city bus, only a bit battered with torn seats. The suspension wasn’t great either! 🙂

My first point of reference in the Golden Zone was the Banamex, after which time I kept an eye out in the distance for the overhead pedestrian bridge attached to my cousin’s hotel. It was still quite far off (less than 10 minutes on foot) when a bunch of people got up, so I decided to get off with them, concerned that the bus driver might be a jerk and purposely make me miss my stop and leave me even further from the hotel.

This turned out to be a good plan because it allowed me to pass a Santander bank, which was recommended to me by a reader here (Kathe?). I’d tried before and it wouldn’t take my card, but this time I had no trouble. The fee was only about 30 pesos and, best of all, I got a few small bills!

My cousin’s room is quite deep into the hotel and I was there at 8:05 on the dot. My first Mazatlán bus trip was a success!