An Odour, a Sound, a Colour, a Taste

After work today, I headed to the big Waldo and Ley on Ejército Mexicano to get some household things as well as groceries.

I stopped at the bank first and discovered that the exchange rate is just getting worse when I only managed to squeeze $4,600 out of the ATM, instead of the $4,800 I was taking out each time I went in November… For once, there was no wait for a teller so I could change my bills, and the one I got was very impressed that I had a Post-It note laying out how many of what denominations of bills I want.

Waldo’s had nearly everything I wanted and a few things I hadn’t realised I could get there. Love shopping there. It’s like Dollar Tree!

By this point, it was very late and I wanted food!  I was looking forward to pizza at Rin Rin, but they were out when I got there so back to the Chinese place I went. This time, I got a server who was very sympathetic to my not being a native Spanish speaker and she spoke slowly and did a lot of pointing and pantomiming, which was appreciated, if not entirely needed. They were out of hibiscus water, so I tried their ‘lime tea,’ which was bizarre… I also tried a new main, pork with veg and potatoes, and it was pretty good (liked the hint of lemongrass), but not as much as the mango chicken since some of the pork was gristly.

Look what I came across in the Ley parking lot:

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Those are Christmas trees, folk. And right there, in the sweltering heat of Mexico, I was transported back to a northern forest, the sharp scent of pine in my nose and the crunch of snow under my feet. It was unexpected and delightful. It did not make me ‘homesick’ one bit, but it did make me realise that much as I love my rolling Prairie hills, I do miss the black pine forests and granite cliffs of the Canadian Shield.

I did an epic grocery shop (dropping $1,200 at one time!), including taking advantage of a 3 for 2 sale on wine (which, spoiler alert, was a bit sweet but delicious!), so I was loaded down to go home and willing to accept any help I could get. I’d also been up since 4:00 a.m., so I was eager to get home. But it was an odd sort of day. I waited forever to cross to Maz on the lancha, long enough that I could have practically walked to the bank from the embarcadero between the time I bought my ticket and the time we actually took off. Well, on the way home, I learned that those tracks separating the parking lot from the ticket booth and dock are actually in use!

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There was a very, very, very long train chugging along very slowly, making that sound trains make (cue ‘Folsom Prison Blues’). The wait by the time I got there was 10 minutes, and someone said she’d been waiting for 10 minutes before I showed up and she hadn’t seen the beginning of it!

The package carrier guy took the opportunity to tease me about my very heavy and clinky bag, asking if I was hooked on Mexican tequila. I told him about the wine sale and that I’d also stocked up on beer. “Oh, you have all the essentials, then,” he replied in heavily accented English with a twinkle in his eye. I did, seeing as I’d also cleaned out Ley of its plain and roasted red  pepper hummus. 🙂

I did a bit of impulse shopping today, remedying some impulse shopping from several years ago, when the size and price of this really dull bath towel overrode my common sense about buying something so bland:

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It’s not too bad in my colourful Miranda, but here it is pretty much the same colour as the floors. 🙁

By the way, I rented the house through photos I’d seen and in them, it was painted with bright colours. But by the time I got here, it had been painted bright white because my landlady realised that “Canadians don’t like colour.” 🙁 I told her she could paint with colours for me if she painted over the summer, but in the offer chance that I wasn’t going to come, she went with white again. At least, I got the purple and yellow curtains in the kitchen!

But I digress. Ley was having a sale on towels and when I saw this, I just had to have it:

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It goes with the lime green walls in the bathroom (a colour I normally dislike, but, in this house, it’s like an oasis in the desert), as well as with the blues in the office. It’s just so bright and beautiful and now I’ll smile when I go into the bathroom instead of staring at more beige!

The only further purchases I want to make are a few area rugs. I’m glad to be spending a little money on the casita this year. Last year, the purchase of a terrible computer chair was really the only expense I could afford at first, and then it was too late for it to be worth buying anything.

I wouldn’t go so far as to say the house feels ‘homey,’ but this year it’s comfortable and a bit softer around the edges, and that’s a huge improvement! I still can’t believe my landlady listened to my suggestion and because of that, I had a comfy place to sit down tonight, put my feet up, and enjoy some vino!

A Chile Effect

I wound up missing lunch today because of Work Stuff and my blanket date. By the time I was done with work at 5:45, I was quite shaky with hunger (despite some quickly inhaled raisins and cheese upon return from my date) and I needed a walk. So I decided to get some takeout (para llevar) from Osuna, clear across Isla. I ordered and asked for extra pickled chiles (curtidos).

There were a few people waiting for food, so I knew it would be a long wait. There was an older lady sitting alone at the table across from me, with a clear view to the kitchen. At one point, I heard her mutter to herself, “Someone likes those pickled chiles!”

I laughed and said that was me.

She turned in shock and said, “You speak Spanish! Thank God! We can chat! Waiting alone is so boring!”

We must have chatted for over 20 minutes about her grandkids, weather, travel, our long and exhausting day, our hunger, what I do for a living, and more. And we also talked about chiles curtidos. Too spicy for her. 🙂

When I got home, I found my extra chiles sealed in a plastic bag sitting on top of my torta, which held the usual amount of chiles. The gal who put them together for me must have remembered me well because her extra was just the right amount! I have to say my favourite part is the carrots. Yes, those same carrots I was terrified of last year! Palates change!

No picture of the torta, sorry. Told you I was hungry!

A Solution to a Sticky Situation

I really appreciate my landlady’s effort in putting some comfier seating in the house this winter. But faux leather is rather sticky in this climate. So I’ve been meaning to cover the chair with something. I priced sheets, fabric, table cloths, even curtains.

Finally, I decided that I wanted one of the rougher machine woven traditional Mexican blankets, preferably in purple, to sort of match my kitchen curtains. I laughed when I priced one in the Golden Zone at a whopping $200, best price $170. I was offered a slightly better price of $160 firm at the Mercado here and $140 firm in Durango. So yesterday, I ran into the beach blanket vendor here on Isla and made an appointment to check out his wares today.

I came home with this for $100:

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Who you know is important!

I almost peed myself laughing when another vendor ran up to him and told him to stop bothering me because I’m an Islander and he retorted, “She’s my friend! We made a date for this!”

Driving El Espinoza del diablo (Devil’s Backbone) from Durango to Mazatlán

I dragged myself out of bed as early as I could Sunday morning since I was planning to drive the libre from Durango back to Mazatlán and I’d been warned it could take up to eight hours, twice as long as the cuota had taken! I was going to gain an hour with the time change, though, which helped. I decided that I would keep an eye on my arrival time and if it looked like I was to get to the start of the Isla road later than 3:30 p.m., I would leave the libre and take the cuota. I was worried about the condition of The Road since Maz had a horrible weekend, weather-wise. Poor Contessa and Colin had to evacuate! Contessa had blogged that The Road was in decent condition with no further rain expected, but nevertheless, I approached my day with the mindset that the last hour could be very, very hellish…

I checked out of the hotel at 8:00, with the plan being to drop my stuff off at the truck and then go get breakfast. The hotel clerk stamped my parking ticket, signed it, and put the time of checkout on it.

The parking lot gates were padlocked shut, so I rang the bell. The attendant came out and I asked if I could just drop off my things. No problem. He let me in and then back out again.

I then wandered a bit around and was disappointed to find that almost nothing is open before 9:00 or 10:00 on Sundays! I had to settle for crappy Oxxo coffee (should have just had the hotel coffee!). The one restaurant that was open didn’t want to serve me. I went in and said hello to the ladies behind the counter (diner-style restaurant). They completely ignored me. I took a table and after being ignored another minute, I went back up to the counter and asked for a menu. I was ignored again. So I left. *shrugs* I’ve had this happen a lot NOB, but it’s usually in small towns, where the restaurants don’t like tourists and prefer to only serve their regulars. I ended up buying some pastries from a lady on a street corner! Not quite what I wanted ahead of a long drive, but better than leaving on an empty stomach and I figured that my last banana would balance things out, nutrition-wise!

The parking lot gate was locked again when I returned, but this time I didn’t even have to ring the bell. The man examined my ticket and confirmed that I didn’t have to pay anything, then wished me a good trip. Since he was waiting for me to get out so he could close the gates again, I didn’t dawdle and was glad that I had programmed Isla as ‘home’ on my GPS, so it was very quick to get that set up. But the GPS wasn’t keen to route me on the libre, so I knew that the 11:30 (Sinaloa time) ETA would not be reality!

I had no trouble navigating my way out of Durango until I got to this intersection.

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It was very bewildering, with poor signage. I wasn’t even sure if I was in the correct lane to make a left turn. The longer I sat there, the less certain I was about when it was my turn to turn and there was a surprising amount of traffic for early on a Sunday, too much for me to feel comfortable just taking my chance of not getting into an accident. I was able to make a discreet U-turn and then pulled over to wait for someone else to get to that intersection with the intention of turning left, which took only a few minutes. When this car turned left, I still had no idea of what prompted the driver to decide it was time to do so, but we made it without getting creamed!

I started on the libre at about 9:00 after getting fuel. Almost immediately, there was a scenic lookout!

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The road was very twisty. You can see a bit of that here (sorry, the phone takes such horrible pictures, but I’d forgotten my camera charger!):

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We occasionally would pass or cross the cuota.

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This was around a military checkpoint. There was one on the libre, too, but I was completely ignored and rolled through it. I had one more checkpoint a few hours later where I had to make a brief declaration.

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I found a rest area with a really fancy bathroom entry system: a coin-operated turnstile! I had no idea how much to put in, so I tried $5 and that got me in, then I heard the clang of coins being returned. I got $3 in change. $2 was a bargain for such a clean bathroom with as much paper as I wanted, soap, doors, running water, etc. My previous rest stop had had a toilet with no door (great view to the road!) and no seat, with a bucket of water by it for flushing… Bathrooms in Mexico run the gamut!

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At one point, the libre and cuota run side by side, with a divider between them:

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I could have rejoined the cuota here, but was making okay time:

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The variety of the landscapes I encountered during the day was dizzying. This felt like I was driving through New England!

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I thought that this was a rather nasty and twisty bit of the road…

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The air here was just so clean and fresh. The sign isn’t important (slow down, your family is waiting for you). I just liked the waterfall behind it. 🙂

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Welcome to the Sierra Madres!

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The Espinazo del Diablo/Devil’s Backbone section is just a tiny part of Mex-40. The start of it is well marked!

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The road started getting a little twisty…

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Just a tad…

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Back in Sinaloa!

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Go home, road, you’re drunk! By this point, I had slowed to a crawl and was coasting in 1st gear to save my brakes. I had a lot of impatient drivers going around me!

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Passing one of the bridges on the cuota:

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The road leveled out at a small town called Concordia, just before Villa Union, and then it was super fast going to Mex-15.

I was exhausted by this point. The road really is challenging, especially when “les gens te pousses dans’l cul” (when other cars are riding your bumper). It was very scenic and fun to drive in a standard, though! I’m glad I drove it once, but the $500 in tolls is worth the time and effort saved if going to Durango regularly. I don’t think I’d want to do the libre in an RV, but a lot of RVers I know prefer that route because the RV tolls are insane. RVers break up the day by overnighting partway.

I stopped at an Oxxo just before the turn to get an Electrolit since I was parched, then braved the two lefthand turns in Villa Union to get some snacks at Panamá’s. It was then just a short drive to the airport turn off.

The first bit of the Road was muddy, but not bad at all and I actually thought, “I’m already at the paved section?!” when I got there! The last unpaved bit was fine. I got through in about 20 minutes! Door-to-door, the trip home had taken six hours, fully two more than the trip to Durango.

I’m really glad that I drove both the cuota and the libre. I can see how the cuota is going to change the life of people living around Durango as it is cutting down on their isolation. But I also feel bad for the folks along the libre who are losing their livelihoods, judging from the number of businesses that have shut down.

But since neither road is great, I’m taking the bus to Durango the next time I go!

Driving the Mazatlán-Durango Cuota

I left home around 9:30 on Thursday, with my ETA in Durango being about 2:30 with the one hour time change. The Road out of Isla took me 28 minutes, but that’s only because I was taking my time. It was in surprisingly good shape!

I stopped for fuel in Villa Union, where there was also, very conveniently, an Oxxo (coffee) and a Panamá (goodies for the road)! I started on Mex 40D (cuota) at about 10:30.

To my surprise, the brand new road was in terrible shape and huge sections were under construction. It was very slow and tedious going. I didn’t take a lot of pictures because there weren’t many places to stop, including on the Guinness Record-holding Baluarte Bridge, which wound up being very underwhelming from the point of view of driving over it. There are tons of spectacular photos of it on the web showing it off from better vantage points than I ever had!

The drive was very, very, very scenic:

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I had plenty of time to admire the scenery:

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I liked how this tunnel is open to the world:

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Sometimes, I felt like I was on top of the world:

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I did not like this super, super, super long tunnel with lots of glaring lights. I drove it almost blind:

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A miniature version of the Baluarte Bridge:

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Here, you can see the tunnel with windows in it:

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Coming to the Baluarte Bridge. Lots of signs saying no stopping, no parking!

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At the end of it, I crossed over into the state of Durango. Another state for my visited Mexican states map!

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Welcome to the state of Durango!

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Weather conditions were perfect, increasingly cool as well as overcast, so I wasn’t baking in my truck:

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Coming into the city of Durango, there was a long downhill stretch. You can see a red stripe in the picture above. It leads to a runaway lane:

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First glimpse of the city of Durango!

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Stopped at a rest area just before the final toll booth and was amused by the bathroom door signage:

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Made it to Durango!

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Considering what a disaster the road is, quality-wise, even all the feats of engineering in the form of tunnels and bridges did not make the $500 I spent in tolls seem reasonable for how tedious this road was to drive. I looked forward to possibly revising that opinion on the road back!

Unlike Mazatlán, Durango believes in street signage, so with the help of my GPS, I found my hotel without a single wrong turn. The parking beside it wasn’t attached to the hotel, though, so I took some street parking to go check in and find out where to stash my truck. When I came back, I had a warning on my windshield that I was in a pay parking zone (metres) and would get a ticket if I didn’t move ASAP. That’s when I knew for sure I was in a very different world from Mazatlán, but more on that later. First, let’s get settled in the hotel!