Saskatchewan

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Salad

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This extremely simple salad would be such a big treat at Haven. I can’t get decent veggies in Assiniboia most of the year and when the lettuce and tomatoes are decent, I’m going into town so rarely that a salad can be had maybe one or two days a month. I’m always ecstatic when Caroline and Charles have enough produce to share!

Here, fresh veggies are easily accessible and super cheap so I’m making an effort to make salads more regularly. This one is super basic and really doesn’t have much in it; romaine lettuce, tomato, red onion, turkey ham, and Oaxaca cheese. I don’t buy salad dressing, so I made one with oil, apple cider vinegar, honey, salt, pepper, and a little garlic powder. Not as good as the one I make with balsamic vinegar and honey Dijon, but still tasty!

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Mazatlán Suits Me

One of the biggest compromises I made when I purchased my property was that I can’t walk to anything, like a bar, food store, or coffee shop. I was really hoping to find something on the outskirts of a town about the size of Assiniboia, but still within walking distance, but Haven was just too good of a deal with big investment potential.

Isla de la Piedra, early morning noise notwithstanding, is pretty dang close to what I was hoping to find in Canada, but even better because there is also a very large full service city right at my door step. I have life in a small vibrant village with most of the basic services I need, but I can also walk and take public transportation to everything that I’m missing on Isla.

I work at a desk all day and try to get out to walk several times if I can. At Haven, that means a walk to the post office or around the block or perhaps mowing the lawn when I have grass. It’s very limiting and not particularly fun. Isla has miles of beach, tons of small streets to explore, and if I have time for a longer break, Maz is less than 15 minutes away. I don’t really bother stocking up on anything because stores are so close that a 10-minute break from my desk can mean picking up tortillas or a block of cheese at the store.

Maz feels like a very approachable city for its size. The downtown core is very walkable and there is tons of inexpensive public transportation. I think pulmonias would be great when I’m carrying heavy groceries to the panga, but I plan to learn the bus route to go to Walmart, Soriana, and the cinema. The city is clean and the parts I have visited do not have many panhandlers or homeless people. There are some sellers who will approach you, but it’s not at all a gauntlet like the ones you have to pass in border towns.

I doubt I would like Maz in summer (too hot and humid!), but the winter climate is wonderful. Today was really hot, but the nights are cool and comfortable for sleeping. My house does not retain heat, so it’s always cooler inside than out.

A lot of people told me that I would not like Maz because it is such a gringo destination, but living in the village next to Mexicans, shopping as they do, and speaking Spanish really makes we wonder how much more real Mexico can get. I have no regrets about my winter destination and am pretty sure I’ll end up spending another winter here…

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Grocery Prices in Mazatlán

My friend Grant met me this morning to take me to Maz to show me where the Ley grocery store is. We left around 8:30, it’s 11:30 now (feels so late!), and we walked around for a bit looking for an ATM, so, really, getting groceries isn’t even a half-day thing.

We took the village panga and he showed me the most direct main street to take. It’s the street I took last time, but I turned too soon. So I really was very close, pretty much skirting around the store. If we had gone straight there, it would have taken about 15 minutes to get to the store.

But we both needed an ATM. He had done research ahead of time and thought he knew where there was a ScotiaBank, but we struck out. We thought we might have better luck around the Mercado and found a bank that wouldn’t accept our debit cards. I asked someone in uniform for another option and he said, I was pretty sure, ‘go a block that way, turn left, and there’s a bank a block or two down.’

That’s what we did and by the second block, we hadn’t seen a bank. I figured that I hadn’t understood correctly when Grant noticed that the building we were standing in front of was an under renovation bank, so little signage, but it was open! I understood the directions just fine!

My card once again got refused and I was getting a little nervous, but I decided to try one more time and instead of requesting a specific amount, I chose their highest pre-selected amount, 2,000 pesos. Success!

The Ley was just a couple of blocks away and, dang, there’s a Banamex ATM right there! I wouldn’t want to take out a large withdrawal there (rent), but it would be good for a smaller amount.

The store was wonderful! It’s just a small ‘express’ Ley and I know that stores like Soriana, Mega, and Walmart would have a lot more choice, but this was a million times better than what I’m used to back home with our crappy Co-Op grocery! I was able to get some brands that I’m more particular about (I don’t eat a lot of pasta, but when I do I favour Barilla), prices were cheap, and the produce was so fresh and more varied than what I can get on Isla. I will want at some point to take a pulmonia to a larger store to get more variety, but I am thrilled to have this Ley within walking distance!

Now that I have a proper receipt, I can give some exact prices for those who are curious about such things. I prefer to buy things on sale when possible, so the following are discounted prices unless I put an F in front of the price for full price. Prices are in pesos/CAD/USD.

(I am amused that the receipt is in alphabetical order, btw!)

Avocado (3 Hass): 8.06/0.65/0.57

Almond milk (one carton, purchased as a gift for Dale): F33.90/2.74/2.40

Red onions (two medium): F7.32/0.59/0.52

Jalapeño pepper (one small): 0.20/0.02/0.01

Crema (Mexican sour cream, medium tub): F21.60/1.75/1.53

Saladitas crackers (big box): F36.70/2.97/2.60

American-style turkey ham (two packages): 39.00/3.15/2.76

Romaine lettuce (small head): F14.90/1.20/1.06

Key limes (about a dozen): 1.65/0.13/0.12

Butter (small stick): 11.00/0.89/0.78

Barilla pasta (two bags): F32.60/2.63/2.31

Bananas (about six): F11.40/0.92/0.81

Oaxaca cheese (2 400g packs): 99.60/8.04/7.06

Philadelphia cheese (one brick): 19.90/1.61/1.41

Ramen noodles (4 packages): 10.00/0.81/0.71

Bacon (small package): 34.90/2.82/2.47

Tomatoes (4 small): F8.82/0.71/0.63

Red grapefruit (2 big): 6.55/0.53/0.46

Yoghurt (large tub): 22.90/1.85/1.62

Beer (8x355mL cans at the Super Deli on Isla): F90.00/7.27/6.38

I think it’s obvious that dairy prices are the best deal in Mexico. I don’t know about meat prices yet (still waiting to be able to cook…) but my biggest luxury item in Canada is a staple item here. Full price, a brick of Philly cream cheese is about four times more expensive in Assiniboia and the tub of yoghurt would have been easily 7 or 8CAD! I’m trying a different brand, one that has fewer ingredients (ie. more natural). It’s coconut pineapple and I’m itching to get into it. 🙂

Bacon was the last thing I picked up. I didn’t go in with a list, not being certain of what I’d be able to find, and I’m glad I did a final sweep of the store and stopped at the deli counter. Bacon is tocino, BTW.

I came to the store with my own bags, including an insulated one that my friend L gave me. I filled one of my Nalgene water bottles about two thirds full last night, stuck it in the freezer, and topped it off this morning. This gave me not only cold water to drink while we walked around, but an ice pack to keep things cold in my insulated bag. I was able to tell the bagger to put the cold things in the insulated bag and the rest in the cloth one and she understood me perfectly. You have to tip baggers, so I gave her 2 pesos plus all the small change (centavos) that I’ve been collecting since it doesn’t seem to be any good for anything else.

Grant was a gentleman and insisted on carrying my heaviest bag all the way back to the panga and then home! It was nice to have a pack mule. 😀 I stopped at the City Deli for beer, we both went next door to get a fresh batch of tortillas, and I met Dale on the way home so I was able to give her the almond milk (the look on her face made me glad I thought to do that for her).

I came home and made wraps from my lovely warm fresh tortillas, Philly cream cheese, wonderful tomatoes, and some ham. Yum!

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Taking the Village Panga

I really needed a day off today and knew that I’d most likely spend it at my computer surfing aimlessly if I stayed home. Even though I didn’t have many pesos left for a shopping trip to Maz, I decided to head over there anyway to get a better lay of the land and figure out where the Ley grocery store is.

Rather than taking the beach panga like I did last time, I took the one from the village. This panga is 16 pesos round trip for residents, just a little less than half of the 30 peso fare for the beach panga. For this one, you pay on both sides, so 8 pesos each time, and you don’t have to worry about losing your return ticket.

This panga drops you off at the docks downtown. It’s actually not that much farther from the historical district than is the beach panga, but it’s closer by a hair to the Ley and the big mercado.

I’d printed out a map showing the location of the Ley, but I didn’t know where I was going to land and my map wasn’t detailed enough for me to figure out where I was. I tried my phone. Google Maps could find the Ley, but could not route me there. Apple Maps (Siri) knew exactly where I was, but couldn’t find the Ley.

I walked around in circles (literally) for a full hour and found the street the Ley was supposed to be on, but I couldn’t find the store. This was fun for the first 45 minutes, then, it wasn’t and I spent the last 15 minutes trying to locate the cathedral, my only real landmark. I really didn’t have enough pesos for a shop and lunch, so I decided that I’d try again next week now that I have a starting point on the Maz side (Pemex 1760).

And, yes, I could have taken a pulmonia to get there, but that didn’t seem like a good use of today’s tight budget. Asking for directions would have also not helped seeing as I doubt I could have followed them.

Despite all that frustration, I did have one bright moment when I found myself standing outside the Pacifico beer brewery! (Why am I not drinking a beer right now? BRB!)

Once I could see the cathedral, finding the mercado was easy. I went in to look for avocados. Everyone had some and there didn’t seem to be much difference in product quality, so I picked a vendor at random and pointed to the avocados, which I could not reach.

She picked one up and said, ‘ripe.’ I didn’t want super ripe ones because I want to have some for a few days, so I shook my head, trying to figure out how to say that I wanted them firmer. I settled on English and said, ‘harder.’

She frowned and then comprehension dawned. ‘Oh, eat tomorrow!’ She touched a few and found one that was nice and firm. I asked for one more, plus the ripe one. Total cost for all three, 20 pesos, which was a bit shocking. I’ve paid less in Assiniboia for good avocados in the dead of winter by watching the specials!

From the mercado, I wanted to go to Waldo’s, the Mexican version of a dollar store, to get a few things for my casita. I knew there was one right there by the mercado on the way to the cathedral. So I circled around the mercado until I saw a stand I recognized and which told me I had to take the next left and the Waldo’s would be across the street.

The Waldo’s was exactly like a dollar store and felt very familiar. I found all but one thing on my list. I picked up a small plastic wastebasket to use as a utensil crock in the kitchen, a square flower pot to hold bathroom items, dish cloths and scrubby pads for the kitchen, a colander, plastic storage containers for leftovers, and plastic wrap. The only thing I couldn’t find was a cheese grater. Total cost was 107 pesos. Plastic wrap is called ‘meat film’, by the way…

It was coming onto 1:00 by this point and I was ravenous, so I headed off to the sushi place, the closest one to the mercado that I knew I could find on my own since it’s right on the water and next to where I had the nachos with Dale.

I knew that it would be a bit of a walk, so I decided to see if the fruit ice cream stand was open today. Yes! There was no guava today, so I got strawberry and ciruela, which is a new word I learned earlier this week, in a cup. I was asked what I wanted for a third flavour (I can get three flavours at once?!) and asked for a surprise, which turned out to be walnut or pecan.

Like the vanilla, the nut was more like real ice cream and quite rich with big pieces of nuts. Very lovely in a small quantity.

As far as I knew, ciruela is plum, so I was a bit surprised to discover to bite into prune ice cream.  I would have expected them to say ciruela seca, or something along those lines, the way that you’d say dried plum in French. At any rate, I absolutely adore prunes and am not so nuts about fresh plums, so this was a wonderful surprise! I could have had a whole cup of just the prune flavour!

Strawberry was on the bottom and exactly as expected, very fresh and sweet and nummy!

I meandered my way down to the water front and turned left on Olas Altas to get to Akita Sushi. I perused the wall menu and decided that while it didn’t look great, it was fine, so I agreed to sit down with a menu.

Every single one of their rolls comes with Philadelphia (cream cheese), which I absolutely abhor in sushi. It’s not just me being a snob, I simply don’t find that the greasy creamy texture that is so great on bagels works that well with vinegared rice. I decided to order three pieces of octopus nigiri from their starter menu (40 pesos!) and a tuna roll if I could get it without Philadelphia, otherwise I’d just do the nigiri and get something else somewhere else. Thankfully, there was no problem with skipping the cheese.

The meal was quite good except for one key ingredient: the soy sauce. I have no idea if that’s what passes for soy sauce in Mexico, but it was very citrusy, with none of the salty umami flavour that is such an integral part of what makes sushi so delicious.

Because of this, the meal was probably a 5 out of 10. It would have been a 7 or an 8 with Kikkoman soy sauce. The rice was surprisingly bland and they were skimpy with the octopus and tuna, but the fish and seafood were extremely fresh and the presentation beautiful. With the tip, lunch came to 125 pesos, about ten bucks. Totally worth it!

I’m going to try at least one other sushi place to get a point of comparison, but I’d definitely come back to Akita with my own bottle of soy sauce!

I was pretty beat by this point and decided to head home. Yes, I already had ice cream before lunch, but I knew I was going to pass a gelataria and I was still peckish. 🙂 I went in and got a cup of gelato for 20 pesos. I saw one flavour that I suspected would be chocolate hazelnut and the lady said it was ‘Ferrero’, which confirmed it. Yum! Ice cream portions in Mexico have so far been very small, closer to a child’s size in Canada or the US, which is absolutely perfect for me.

Returning to the panga was easy from the gelataria, which is just by the Plaza Machado. Apple Maps knew where I was and could find the Pemex, so I had no trouble making my way through the warren of streets to emerge on Emilio Barragán, and then it was a short walk past the docks and the naval base to the panga.

I went to the ticket booth and asked for residente ticket. The woman literally sneered at me and said suspiciously, ‘Residente?’ I held up my bag of shopping and said that I rent a house on Isla. She rolled her eyes and accepted my 8 pesos. Wow. I don’t know what the rules are, but I think that renting a house in the village for the winter should qualify me for the resident rate, especially if folks staying just for a month or two in the RV park get said rate!

I enjoyed the bumpy ride home and stopped off at the tortilla factory to get a fresh batch. I used my thumb and index finger to show the size of the stack I wanted and paid just 5 pesos for it.

Isla panga dock.

Isla panga dock.

Maz dock in the distance.

Maz dock in the distance.

The village panga has a nice handhold to get on.

The village panga has a nice handhold to get on.

Pelican on a panga.

Pelican on a panga.

I haven't been to this part of Isla yet.

I haven’t been to this part of Isla yet.

This is another panga stop for 'colonia', which I understand is the slums...

This is another panga stop for ‘colonia’, which I understand is the slums…

Heading to Maz!

Heading to Maz!

Maz getting closer.

Maz getting closer.

Pacifico brewery!

Pacifico brewery!

Maz panga dock entrance.

Maz panga dock entrance.

Pemex 1760 is a good landmark on the Maz side to find the panga.

Pemex 1760 is a good landmark on the Maz side to find the panga.

I remember turning here in my truck! I can't believe it was about 1.5 hours (not counting stops) to get to Isla from here when I made it in less than 20 minutes on foot and panga!

I remember turning here in my truck! I can’t believe it was about 1.5 hours (not counting stops) to get to Isla from here when I made it in less than 20 minutes on foot and panga!

Pacifico brewery!

Pacifico brewery!

After a very frustrating hour of walking around in circles, a familiar landmark at last! See the cathedral spires in the distance?

After a very frustrating hour of walking around in circles, a familiar landmark at last! See the cathedral spires in the distance?

Found him! (ha ha ha ha ha I crack myself up sometimes)

Found him! (ha ha ha ha ha I crack myself up sometimes)

I have this exact colander, only in pink, at Haven! I didn't buy this one because the holes are too big for rinsing rice, but the find amused me.

I have this exact colander, only in pink, at Haven! I didn’t buy this one because the holes are too big for rinsing rice, but the find amused me.

I came out feeling like I bought the whole store. :)

I came out feeling like I bought the whole store. 🙂

Strawberry, prune, and nut ice creams.

Strawberry, prune, and nut ice creams.

Octopus nigiri. Yuuuuuum. I was told I could mix it up and have my choice of four different kinds of seafood (forget what else), but I just wanted pulpo!

Octopus nigiri. Yuuuuuum. I was told I could mix it up and have my choice of four different kinds of seafood (forget what else), but I just wanted pulpo!

This is NOT soy sauce. Not sure what it is. I just took a picture because I was so shocked by the viscous texture and wanted to remember my reaction. :)

This is NOT soy sauce. Not sure what it is. I just took a picture because I was so shocked by the viscous texture and wanted to remember my reaction. 🙂

Tuna roll, very light on the tuna. The inside is a bit like a California role, with shrimp, avocado, and cucumber (pepino).

Tuna roll, very light on the tuna. The inside is a bit like a California role, with shrimp, avocado, and cucumber (pepino).

Hazelnut and chocolate gelato.

Hazelnut and chocolate gelato.

Part of my Waldo haul. Yes, I got another pink colander. :D (Bonus shot of my stack of tortillas behind the 'meat wrap.'

Part of my Waldo haul. Yes, I got another pink colander. 😀 (Bonus shot of my stack of tortillas behind the ‘meat wrap.’

This little waste basket will make a decent utensil crock, although it is a little tippy.

This little waste basket will make a decent utensil crock, although it is a little tippy.

The flower pot is perfect for the bathroom!

The flower pot is perfect for the bathroom!

I only have about 80 pesos left to get me through to a PayPal deposit I initiated on Friday, so I decided not to get a chicken today even though I was really tempted to for dinner. I might get one tomorrow.

But add in 10 pesos for a bottle of water tomorrow and 8 pesos for a trip back to Maz early in the week to get an ATM, that would leave me pretty flat broke if the PayPal deposit is delayed (which they tend to be when I’m eager for them!). So I’m likely to skip chicken this week. 🙁

I have to pay a hefty sum for a withdrawal, so it didn’t make sense to get cash today with what I had in the bank. I’ll make a decent sized withdrawal next week, then go back and get the rent the following week after I get the balance of my payments for December.

I am absolutely thrilled with how far I was able to stretch my pesos this month! I know that 80 pesos (6.50CAD/5.75USD really doesn’t sound like much to get me through up to a week, but I am not concerned in the least! I’ve got plenty of food and know that I can get, at minimum, a bottle of water, a block of cheese, a beer or two (at the grocery store), and another stack of tortillas with that and still have enough change left to take the panga to Maz.

It was a bit more of a trek to Maz than I thought it would be, but I think that once I figure out the shortest route between the panga and the Ley and mercado, it’ll feel much closer. Just based on the trip home, it looks like it’ll be just about the same amount of time that it takes me to go to Assiniboia, only I get exercise!

I’m really enjoying my life here and feel secure and comfortable both on Isla and walking around Maz. Now that the budget is loosening up, I suspect I’ll be in Maz more often. I’d sure like to find a movie theatre with afternoon showings (being optimistic?) and there are a few more museums I’d like to tour.

Loud early mornings withstanding, I remain absolutely thrilled with my choice of destination for this winter and continue to be in awe of the fact that I am in Mexico!

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Pensive

I had a really brutal work day yesterday (Monday) and am running on way too little sleep for way too many days in a row. So today is ending up to be pretty much a write-off. I have tons of work for the rest of the week, due late Friday, but the amount will still be manageable if I skip today. I’m looking at my hammock and wondering if I might actually be able to fall asleep if I crawl into it…

When I started to seriously think about Mexico for this winter, I was still very much in the working extremely hard for little money stage of my life. I envisioned my Mexico winter to be pretty much what November has been and what last winter was like, being housebound, typing madly, and occasionally emerging for the odd meal out and a bit of sunshine. I was okay with that and I am okay with how my first few weeks in Mexico have been. I mean, I am in Mexico.

One of my good friends is at a resort at an exotic location right now. When the pictures starting showing up in my feed, I felt a momentary pang of jealousy that I can’t afford to take vacations like that. And then, I remember where the heck I am! I can’t afford to take vacations like that, but I can afford to port my life to amazing destinations!

I didn’t get to eat much yesterday, what with the schedule being as crazy as it was, and December money is going to be coming in very quickly. So I decided this morning that I had earned a splurge and went to Carmelita’s for lunch. I didn’t bring a book or device, choosing to instead sit outside and watch the ocean and the beach crowds and let my thoughts go any way they wanted.

My life is so simple and yet it affords me the luxury of being at a beach resort location on a gloriously warm and sunny day when it is grey and absolutely freezing back home. I might not be able to afford to vacation here, but I can live here and have an authentic experience of what it means to live in a country that is quite different from my own. I have no regrets.

I ordered a mineral water limonada (it was sweet this time, but not so much so as to be undrinkable), and one of the most expensive things on the menu, the shrimp quesadillas. They turned out be more like my idea of a shrimp taco, but in flour tortillas, with the shrimp so sweet and chewy and non-fishy that I was momentarily overwhelmed by their succulent flavour. I actually wondered if I had ever in my life tasted something so incredibly delicious. Seriously. I must be really bored with my cooking!

I took my time savouring each delightful bite, worked my way through most of the bowl of pico de gallo as well as sides of rice and beans, and sipped my drink slowly enough that the ice had time to melt.

The server has seen me a few times and we talked a little today about where I’m staying here and where I’m from. He tries to serve me in English, but I’m adamant about responding in Spanish.

My meal came to a hefty 160 pesos and left a 25 peso tip. I could feed myself for a week on that, so I won’t be eating out again at a Gringo place for a while, but, really, it was just $15.25 and I pay exactly that for lunch at 121 in Assiniboia without batting an eyelash because it’s such good value.

December will be quite different from November if work keeps up the way it has. I’ll be able to get back into a more normal routine with evenings and days off. I’m planning to take the village panga to Maz on Saturday to find the Ley grocery store and I’d like to get into the habit of going to Maz at least once, if not twice, a week. It’s an inexpensive trip (just 16 pesos for residents on the village panga), so there’s no reason not to expand the boundaries of my Mexican home.

Six months sounds like such a long time, but I’m already about to start the first of only four complete months here on Isla. Time is going to go really, really fast. I know how easy it is to settle into a groove somewhere, thinking that there is plenty of time to see everything, and then it’s suddenly time to leave.

Speaking of Saturday, I will be going to the airport in the afternoon to pick up my new neighbour in the little suite. She is flying in from… Saskatchewan! I’ve had a good laugh about that! She has negotiated the use of the palapa and the washer, so my not-so-quiet existence here is about to come to an end and I may end up having to change my office setup since I look right out onto the palapa. But my new neighbour sounds great (we’ve been emailing) and she was here in my suite last year, so it’ll be nice to have someone who knows the ropes and her way around my landlady. 🙂

I feel so grateful to be here, to be bone tired while looking at coconut palms and iguanas running across the top of the garden wall instead of staring at my neighbour’s garage. I doubt I will ever stop being amused at having to dodge lizards in the hallway while en route to another part of the house, unlike having to chase mice hell bent on killing me (hantvirus!). I miss the quiet of my home back north, but otherwise am quite content here and not really missing anything.

My RVing years taught me to be at home everywhere. They have reduced a lot of the awe at being in a new exotic location because being somewhere new has become my new normal. I worry sometimes that I’m becoming a little jaded, but then I find myself spotting my first wild iguana or nearly getting clocked by a coconut falling out of a palm tree and I am so giddy and happy about the event that I know that I have not lost the ability to look at the world with a child’s eye.

I love my life.