Out and About in Truth or Consequences, NM (and the Geronimo Springs Museum)

Truth or Consequences is a tiny town. There really isn’t much here besides the hot springs. I am rather embarrassed to admit that I have no desire to explore the hot springs even though several people have briefed me on the various places to go have a soak.

So I’m really not disappointed that I only really had today to go out and explore, or that just about every restaurant and shop in town is closed on Mondays. I didn’t come here for tourism, but to work. If I had been in a more happening community, it would have been much harder for me to focus on work this past week. I did about eight days of work in five and I am exhausted, but now I can take a few days off this week without worrying about it. I am going to be very busy with work soon enough and have actually turned out work for today through Wednesday!

So Truth or Consequences is a spa town that used to be called Hot Springs. Its tourism industry hinged on the healing qualities of their water. In 1950, radio host Ralph Edwards announced a contest that he would do a show at the first town that changed its name to Truth or Consequences, the name of his program. Hot Springs won.

I read some really interesting info about the name change today, mostly that it was rather contested and the town was polarized about it. But it really sounds like it was a major win for the town because of all the free advertising Edwards’ program would bring. Plus, there are hot springs everywhere, but there is only one Truth or Consequences.
So that’s the very brief history of the town. I left home around 10:00 this morning and hit the visitors’ centre about two blocks away. The main core of T or C is very walkable.

The exterior of my apartment. There's a bunch in a row and I have a corner unit.

The exterior of my apartment. There’s a bunch in a row and I have a corner unit.

The supermarket. Quite good for a town this size. Locals apparently prefer it to the Walmart. There was a good selection of international foods.

The supermarket. Quite good for a town this size. Locals apparently prefer it to the Walmart. There was a good selection of international foods.

T or C's original name was Hot Springs.

T or C’s original name was Hot Springs.

Downtown feels like walking through an episode of Mad Men.

Downtown feels like walking through an episode of Mad Men.

These little medallions appear several times in the sidewalks.

These little medallions appear several times in the sidewalks.

Impressive flower cacti.

Impressive flower cacti.

The lady at the visitors’ centre was friendly and helpful. She confirmed that the museum, hot springs, lunch, and visiting whatever boutiques were open were all there was to do today. She gave me a map and off I went to the museum.

In front of the museum.

In front of the museum.

The building is rather nondescript.

The building is rather nondescript.

The post office is more impressive.

The post office is more impressive.

Water feature next to the museum.

Water feature next to the museum.

Cute little bridge.

Cute little bridge.

More of the water feature.

More of the water feature.

The Geronimo Springs Museum is the nearly ubiquitous small town museum, filled to bursting with local artifacts arranged as logically as possible. Admission on the website said $6, but it was just $5. Staff was very cold and unfriendly and so I have no idea why since they took my money and ignored me for the rest of my visit.

I spent a little over an hour in the museum, but could have stretched that out a bit more if I had read more of the historic documents presented. It’s a very good little museum and I learned a lot about the local history and colourful folk inhabiting the area, including the famed Apache warrior Geronimo. Here are some highlights:

The town voted to change its name.

The town voted to change its name.

Collection of brands used by local ranchers.

Collection of brands used by local ranchers.

And the various types of barbed wires. I saw a wall like this in Tombstone.

And the various types of barbed wires. I saw a wall like this in Tombstone.

Geronimo was rather short.

Geronimo was rather short.

Heaps and heaps of beautiful pottery.

Heaps and heaps of beautiful pottery.

And loads of arrow heads.

And loads of arrow heads.

Open the door and...

Open the door and…

... step back in time.

… step back in time.

The person sleeping in the top bunk is a nice touch.

The person sleeping in the top bunk is a nice touch.

The old miner.

The old miner.

Old tins of products we still use today.

Old tins of products we still use today.

Gorgeous... tabletop?

Gorgeous… tabletop?

That's how I would have likely dressed in the day. :)

That’s how I would have likely dressed in the day. 🙂

Mammoth skull.

Mammoth skull.

Mastodon skull.

Mastodon skull.

This police officer was killed in 1999.

This police officer was killed in 1999.

She was killed by a prisoner she was transporting.

She was killed by a prisoner she was transporting.

There was an exhibit about the Truth or Consequences radio show.

There was an exhibit about the Truth or Consequences radio show.

There were lots of pretty dresses on display.

There were lots of pretty dresses on display.

I like this one. It has prints of newspaper articles on it.

I like this one. It has prints of newspaper articles on it.

Five cents for beer!

Five cents for beer!

A ladies saddle designed for the rough trails of the area not suited to a side saddle.

A ladies saddle designed for the rough trails of the area not suited to a side saddle.

Windmill outside.

Windmill outside.

The white pin is mine.

The white pin is mine.

Most of the visitors are from the local area. There were separate maps for the rest of the world and I'm pretty sure every major country was represented!

Most of the visitors are from the local area. There were separate maps for the rest of the world and I’m pretty sure every major country was represented!

Rear of the downtown library.

Rear of the downtown library.

So beautiful!

So beautiful!

More ho-hum front of the library.

More ho-hum front of the library.

This car fit right in.

This car fit right in.

Another impressive cactus.

Another impressive cactus.

I'm definitely in the southwest!

I’m definitely in the southwest!

Old pickup not hitched to the Airstream.

Old pickup not hitched to the Airstream.

Old Ford hitched to the trailer.

Old Ford hitched to the trailer.

It was too early for lunch when I came out, so I went back home to research restaurant options since the most appealing place, serving Asian-fusion (!), that was recommended by the visitors’ centre lady was was closed. I went back out about an hour later and decided to try the downtown burger joint, A&B, since reviews for their burgers were really good. It wound up being a rather disappointing and expensive meal at $7.42 for a cheeseburger, fries, and drink combo. The burger was okay, with a good bun, but I prefer the meat to be seasoned a bit and this was just a ground beef topped with lettuce, tomato, mustard, and pickles. Very juicy, though, I’ll give it that. The fries were disappointing. For my beverage, I rediscovered the wonderful U.S. offering of real brewed non-sweetened iced tea.

After lunch, I walked down Broadway and window shopped. There were so many cute little vintage and antique shops I would have liked to stop in, but, alas, they were shut tight. Then, I saw an oasis in the desert, the Moon Goddess shop, with its door open, so I went in. Aaaaah. My kind of shop, New Agey and smelling of patchouli and full of treasures. I was there for ages, going through all the racks when I realised that prices were reasonable! Unfortunately, there was almost nothing in my size, but I did get a really good deal on a long black skirt, so my digging wasn’t for naught.

The owner and I had a nice chat about the quirks of small towns and she was surprised when I told her that Mondays are a very common day off in all sizes of communities because so many places are now open on Sundays. She rang and packaged up my skirt and off I went home.

I’m tired and still fighting a cold, so I hope that this post doesn’t sound like I have any negative feelings about T or C. Museum people notwithstanding, the folks here are really friendly and it’s a lovely little community with all the services, much like Assiniboia. I’m really glad that I stopped in.

A Shock

The garage in Assiniboia that did the out of province inspection on my truck in late ’13 claimed that everything was good. I specifically asked about the state of my brakes as the garage in New Orleans had said I should start thinking about them and I’d done quite a bit of mileage since then. The guy in Assiniboia said, “Oh, your pads are newish, you’ve got over 30,000KM to go before you need to think about them.” Well, I haven’t done nearly that much driving since then, but I thought that I might as well get them checked here before going into the mountains for peace of mind, right?

I’m not a mechanic and even I could see that everything was NOT GOOD with the truck with the tires off today. Like, really not good. The mechanic said he was shocked and that the brakes needed FULL service ages and ages ago. I need completely new brakes. I went through this with Miranda and know from what I saw that they’re not exaggerating.

Let’s just say I’m glad this was discovered before I had an accident. And that I just busted my truck maintenance/repair budget. 🙁

The brake service will be 4,500 pesos (363CAD), which, frankly, sounds like a bargain to me, plus 1,200 for the oil change and tailgate handle and an undetermined amount for the windshield wiper pump. So I’m at 5,700 and it’ll probably be closer to 6,200 when I’m all done, putting me 1,200 pesos over budget, or about 100CAD. This isn’t dramatic, but that means that if anything else goes wrong with the truck on the trip home, I am going to have to dip into other buckets to cover the deficiency.

I’m so glad this happened before I got underway as it’s a really good reminder that I will need to firmly tighten the purse strings for this very long trip home. I planned to do a lot of motel stays along the way so I could work, but I’m trying to come up with creative solutions to avoid doing that, like taking a campsite with electricity and working from my front passenger seat (which is more comfortable than working at a hotel table anyway!).

I also need to make a run to town before picking up the truck on Friday because I don’t have enough cash to pay the bill. So that throws off my work schedule somewhat, but I’ll figure it out.

Needless to say, I’m not having my air conditioner looked at!

(By the way, a lot of the mechanical terms in Spanish are close to those in French, so that’s why I had no trouble understanding the mechanic.)

A Great Day in Mazatlán

Even though I didn’t need to be up early today, I was wide awake at 6:00. I am absolutely exhausted, but it’s not the sleep deprived kind at all as I’ve been getting plenty of sleep. So I didn’t try to get another oouple of hours and instead read for about an hour.

I put on a load of laundry while the water heated for coffee, then I breakfasted on my leftover tacos. They were surprisingly good cold! I had planned to reheat them in a pan with cheese, but they didn’t need any work at all, besides the addition of a little avocado. 🙂

Laundry takes a while since the machine is slow to fill, so I did a little clothes mending before I left. I didn’t think to bring sewing supplies from home, but I found a very adequate little kit at Waldo’s for just 12 pesos that had everything I needed, even the right colour threads!

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

After finally putting the laundry on the line, I headed to town. I have a birthday coming up so my first stop was the dress shop to put in an order for a dress. 🙂 It was going to take a while since the seamstress wasn’t in yet, but I wasn’t in a hurry as I had some errands to run in the area. I paid and said I’d be back in about an hour.

I head to Panamá’s, where there was a lineup out the door and up the block for its mediocre food! I grabbed an almond croissant to go (no wait for this), went back to the Mercado to get a grapefruit juice, and found a bench in the square opposite the cathedral to have my snack. This was the first time a juice vendor asked me to confirm my order. It surprised me that it took this long since orange and grapefruit have the same last syllable.

Next, I went to the fabric/craft store as I have a craft project I want to do. I was looking for felt and completely struck out. I used Google to translate, describe what felt is, spoke to a clerk who is fluent in English, showed a picture, and still we could not figure it out. I found something else that will make do.

I then asked for ‘cinta de contact’, remembering that Velcro didn’t work last time, and the guy looked at me funny and said, “You mean Velcro?” I said yes, but that the last clerk I asked had no idea what Velcro is. He shook his head and said he knew exactly who I meant. Interesting.

He left me in the capable hands of the notions counter and I asked for black Velcro. They only had white left and I could have a whole metre or a rather wrinkled remnant a few inches long that was exactly as much as I needed for my project! Finally, I wanted ribbon and they had rolls and rolls and rolls of the stuff, but I quickly spotted exactly what I wanted and got a metre of that.

Total cost of my purchases at the craft store: 2.5 pesos. I love this country.

Then, I went to Waldo’s to pick up a few things and then I went back in search of the earring lady. There are tons other vendors in the Mercado selling 10-peso pairs of earrings, but they look really cheap and/or gaudy. She has the nicest ones and I found her again! I picked out a pair that she says is made of green quartz.

I finished my errands by getting some avocados, wandered around the Mercado a bit to continue getting my bearings in it, and figured out where I needed to catch the bus to the Golden Zone, my next stop. As it turns out, it’s on Benito Juarez, in front of Waldo’s and just outside the dress shop.

My dress was ready and the seamstress had remembered that I needed to have the straps shortened on the last dress, so she put shorter ones on this one. I tried the dress on the minute I got home and the straps on it are perfect!

My new dress. I don't like the fabric as much as it is going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

My new dress. I don’t like the fabric as much as it is a thin jersey-type material that is likely going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

I know I already have a purple dress, but there really wasn’t much I liked today in terms of patterns and fabric weight. I wound up making a compromise with a lighter weight fabric that I wasn’t sure would drape well (thankfully, it does!). I almost went with the orangey red dress in the same fabric as my pink dress, but the clerk said to me (in English), “I really don’t think that’s the best colour for you,” so that was that. I really like the pattern (flowers) and colour of this dress and the fabric feels very light and climate-appropriate.

My business in the area done, I wanted to head to the Golden Zone. It was frankly time to get over my annoying derision for the area and get to know it a bit better.

It was incredible to stand on the curb outside the Mercado with all the crowds and traffic, not be even remotely overwhelmed, and recognize the bus I needed as it pulled up. I have just about mastered the basics of this wonderful city!

I decided to ride the bus a good long way, just to see what was what and then either walk or bus it back to the Golden Zone to get coffee and lunch. I settled in and off we went. Traffic was light and there was almost no one on the bus. We passed the Golden Zone, hit the marina, and continued on to Nuevo Mazatlán and Cerritos. The only other passenger besides me got off near the Crown Plaza Hotel and I decided I was done, too, and got off as well.

Crowne Plaza Hotel

Crowne Plaza Hotel

map

I started to head back the way I came, stopping at an Oxxo for a bottle of water. I used to carry a full 1L bottle of water with me at all times until I realised just how much weight that is. Yes, buying a small bottle of water at a convenience store is about 4x the price of the water I buy at home, but I walk a lot and my bag gets heavy! Plus, buying water throughout the day means I always get cold water. Even if I start with half a bottle of ice, I have warm water within a few hours.

I walked all the way from the Crowne Plaza Hotel to the Marina.

Another great translation -- bottom of the sign, "Only registers."

Another great translation — bottom of the sign, “Only registers.”

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it's better for my bum leg. :)

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it’s better for my bum leg. 🙂

I'm not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

I’m not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

Looks like a new residential complex.

Looks like a new residential complex.

It's rather in the middle of nowhere.

It’s rather in the middle of nowhere.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There's a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There’s a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

A marina.

A marina.

I love the colour of the water down here.

I love the colour of the water down here.

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. :D

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. 😀

Can you imagine mooring here?

Can you imagine mooring here?

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. :)

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. 🙂

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

At the Marina, I found a proper bus shelter with shade and waited for some time for a bus. A taxi pulled up and offered me a ride, which I declined politely, as I had declined all the other offers I’d been giving along my long walk. “Why not?” the driver asked me in English. I replied in Spanish, “Bus to the Mercado, 10 pesos, taxi 120 pesos!” He laughed and said in perfect English, “Yeah. Can’t argue with that! Have a great day!”

There were folks across the street waiting for a bus going in the opposite direction (no shelter) and they came running across the street to me, asking if I’d ever taken the bus before. Yes… As it turns out, the buses kept going past them. I told them to stick out their arm to as a signal to the driver. As I said this, my bus showed up, so I was able to demonstrate.

This turned out to be one of the smaller ‘local’ buses (as opposed to the ‘tourist buses’). There really wasn’t much difference in the comfort level, but this bus was only 7 pesos instead of 10! BTW, the bus drivers have change!

It really wasn’t very far to get to Rico’s from the Marina, but I was glad for the lift. I got up just after the El Cid Resort and the driver asked me where I wanted him to stop exactly. I said Rico’s and he dropped me off kitty corner from the café.

To my surprise, Rico’s upped their coffee prices significantly since the last batch I got, from 124 pesos to 147 for a pound of Veracruz! Still a great deal, though! I was happy to use their bathroom while I waited for my order, but was surprised that it was not very clean.

It was coming onto 1:00 when I left and I was ready for lunch. I wanted sushi, something I haven’t had since November 29th, but I knew better than to have my heart set on it. There are tons of sushi restaurants in Maz, but they never seem to be open when I need them to be!

I walked down the street towards Rafael Buelna, looking at my food options and doing a bit of window shopping.

See these little squares in the pavement?

See these little squares in the pavement?

Super cute tiles! This one's a cat.

Super cute tiles! This one’s a cat.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

I was nearly at Rafael Buelna when I found an open sushi place, Yoko’s! Heading south, it’s just after Panamá’s and before the Burger King on your left. The entrance is set back from the road, so it’s not evident that the place is open. I’m glad I investigated!

To my immense surprise, I was not only served in Spanish, but the menu was bilingual Japanese-Spanish with no English! I had no idea what half the Spanish words were and my Japanese was much needed and appreciated. 🙂

I ordered pretty much my usual, octopus nigiri and spicy tuna.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

The octopus came with a sweet and salty sauce that I was worried would mask the delicate flavour of the flesh, but there was only a small dab of it and it wound up being very good!

The tuna was not spicy in the least, but was very fresh and generously portioned. This was a 10 out of 10 sushi meal! The bill was a bit shocking, 210 pesos with the tip, a very average price for this quality of sushi meal if converted to both USD and CAD, but quite high for Mexico! Totally worth it, though!

Looking out the window, I saw the Post and Ship mail service location. This is a great service for Gringos here long-term. You get a US shipping address in Texas and every so often, your items are brought to Mexico to be picked up at this location, with all customs processes and fees done for you. I couldn’t justify the cost of the service for just six months, but I bet the ex-pats love it!

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

After lunch, I decided to go to Panamá’s for cake and coffee, something a few people have told me I need to do just once, even if I don’t eat a lot of sweets anymore. I ordered the ‘coffee and slice’ special, asking for a ‘cafe Americano’ to get real black drip coffee to which you can add milk and sugar (as per my friend’s tip). I was brought a huge multi-tiered tray on wheels from which I could pick any dessert I wanted. There was tons of choice, but I really wanted chocolate and found a slice that looked like devil’s food cake with caramel, which is exactly what it was.

The cake was really good, but I wish I’d had someone to split it with as I could have easily been satisfied with just half of the huge slab. The coffee was excellent! So now I know that I can use Panamá’s for coffee, too! I don’t know if they do take out coffee, but I always a mug with me when I’m traveling, so there’s that option.

I was quite tired by this point, so it was time to wrap up my day with a visit to the Mega supermarket that I have heard so much about. It wasn’t far from Panamá’s; one or two blocks to Rafael Buelna and then perhaps one or two blocks down.

It had a lot, but, really, I think it’s over rated. I didn’t see much there that you can’t find at Soriana and the bigger Leys and the prices were generally a little higher for everything. They did have more imported foods, though, I’ll give them that, and more English signage and staff, which explains why Gringos like them so much and think that groceries are super expensive in Mexico! But I did get a few good deals and they had hummus! Reader Sandy left a comment yesterday about Mega having hummus, so I knew I wasn’t going to leave without some!

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn't stop giggling.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn’t stop giggling.

COLOURED rice!

COLOURED rice!

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

That should last me a bit.

That should last me a bit.

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the 'gourmet' imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the ‘gourmet’ imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish -- aceituna. Aceite is vinegar and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of marinated fish. :)

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish — aceituna. Aceite is oil and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of sardines. 🙂

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

Now, this was a find! It's no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

Now, this was a find! It’s no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

I’m glad I went to Mega because now I know that I haven’t really been missing out on anything by going primarily to Ley and occasionally to Soriana. There were a few things that might make it worth popping into Mega occasionally, but going there won’t be a habit.

I’d promised myself a pulmonía for the ride home and was quoted 70 pesos. I talked him down to 65… but still paid the 70. 🙂 A panga was pulling out as I arrived, but came back to the dock for me!

The walk home from the panga was just about all the extra work I needed to do today as my bags were getting heavy. I’m cooked and beat, but what a great day off! Now, to decide if I want wine or beer!

Not So Big Spender

I got an email from Dale this morning asking me to meet her at the Mercado noonish. I hadn’t planned to go out, but I had time, so why not?! She had also invited Janet, so Janet and I met up at the police station here on Isla and made our way to Waldo’s together, where we met up with Dale, who had taken the bus for the first time.

I was down to my last 150 pesos (putting 8 aside for the panga ride tomorrow or Wednesday to hit the bank), so you would think I just went for the conversation. Ha ha ha. I love Mexico.

We hit Waldo’s and a craft store for Dale first, then went upstairs above the Mercado to find a restaurant where Janet could eat. She’s normally vegan, but will sometimes have cheese. I found a restaurant that would make her a cheese quesadilla, so that’s where we went. The menu was small, very ‘Mexican’, and the most expensive thing on it was 50 pesos…

I had literally the best enchiladas of my life, for 30 pesos, plus 6 pesos for a bottle of water (forgot to bring my own), plus a small tip.

IMG_0447

The sauce was light and zippy, but not actually spicy. It was very flavourful. The chicken filling was moist and a dollop of crema brought everything together. I now have a go-to spot for lunch in that part of town!

Next, I went to go to Panamá’s where I spent a whopping 30 pesos on a ham, cheese, and jalapeño sandwich for tonight, a savoury cheese and jalapeño bun thing for lunch tomorrow, and an almond croissant for breakfast.

So I’ve now spent 70 pesos, covered four meals, and have 72 pesos left (remember, I spent 8 pesos to get to Maz!). We stopped at an ice cream stand for gelato, leaving me with 52 pesos.

We walked around the area for a bit, then split up with Dale because I needed to get home. Janet asked to stop in at Ley. I wasn’t going to get anything, but my favourite yoghurt was on mega sale and they had one left of my preferred flavor, so I snagged it. After the tip for the bagging lady, I had 22 pesos left.

And then, I took the panga home, leaving me with a whole 14 pesos.

Gas one way to Assiniboia from home costs roughly 150 pesos…

More Thoughts About Mazatlán

I remember doing some research about Maz this past summer and getting a figure of over 1 million for its population. I have no idea what I was looking at. The population of the city is about 440,000 and if you add in the metro area, it’s still less than half a million. That puts it at twice the size of Regina, but fully half the size of Calgary.

In terms of actual landmass, the city feels very compact. I’ve covered most of the core of the city. It’s a very easy city to get around in, thanks to great public transportation and high walkability, so you can quickly and cheaply find yourself from one end to the other. I would do very well here without a vehicle. In fact, I am toying with the idea of flying to Maz next year since I really do not miss driving this winter.

I’m already playing the ‘could I live here?’ game that I played through my travels in the U.S. and Canada. I do intend to live in Mexico for a few years if I can get a long term residency visa, so I think that getting a start on answering that question is worthwhile. It certainly paid off in Canada because it enabled me to buy property smartly.

I know myself really well now, know what is important to me in a long term home and what is a trade off I’m willing to make. Maz has a lot going for it, being a so evocative of the central core of Ottawa, which I still maintain is the perfect Canadian city for me except for one key detail. I’ll get into that in a moment. If I were to choose Maz as a permanent residence, I’d probably want to live on Isla to continue getting the best of both worlds.

But Maz has one big ugly issue that would make it utterly unsuitable for me as a permanent residence: its climate. I can hear all of you say WHAT?! Maz has a humid tropical climate. I do not ever again want to live long term in a humid climate. Humidity makes the cold colder and the heat hotter. You also have to deal with food spoilage, mould, odours, condensation, rust and a host of other issues. I cannot believe how much of my stuff, including bags in storage, the top and sides of my fridge, clothes hanging in the closet, and even computer parts are getting fuzzy with mould! Soon as I get half a day off, I really need to empty everything out of the closets and cabinets to make sure I’m on top of the mould issue.

I didn’t buy property in the back end of nowhere Saskatchewan just because it was cheap or because I had easy access to a lovely city (which I don’t…). I bought property there because of a generally dry and sunny climate, year round. As it turned out, my biggest priority wasn’t being able to walk to a bar or coffee shop or a movie theatre or a good grocery store, but to be in a climate that doesn’t make me want to curl up in a ball and sob three quarters of the year and keep me glued to an AC vent the rest of the time. Climate came first, cost of living second, and everything else was negotiable. That was as shocking revelation.

I love Maz very much and look forward to returning next year, but after that, I’m going to seek a different location to try to find that magical combination of hot and dry winter weather. Being near the ocean isn’t important to me (rather obvious if you look on a map where Haven is located, about as far away from an ocean in all directions as is possible anywhere in North America!), so I wouldn’t mind venturing further inland, although I will have to watch the elevation!