How I Taught Myself to Read Bulgarian Cyrillic Script In a Few Hours

I’m a visual learner and it’s easier to memorise lists of words than sounds when I’m learning a language. So I knew I had to learn Bulgarian Cyrillic script before I could even attempt to learn the language. I’d already successfully learned to read Japanese hiragana characters, so I knew I could learn Bulgarian Cyrillic.

Bulgarian Cyrillic wound up being much, much easier because I could understand so many of the words I could now read since they are similar to the equivalent word in French, English, or Spanish. There are a lot of French loan words in Bulgarian, which definitely gives me an edge. Also, Bulgarian is a phonetic language, so there is one way to pronounce sounds, with only a few exceptions. So once you know what sound goes with which letter, you can read anything.

I started to learn to read Bulgarian Cyrillic with the name of the town I would be living close to, Ябланица, Yablanitsa. That gave me 8 of the 32 letters suddenly representing sounds rather than just being squiggles on a page. This became my key word on which I built my knowledge, but I still had three quarters of the alphabet left to learn.

I started with the letters that look like Latin/Roman characters and sound the way an English speaker would expect them to sound: А, Е, К, М, Т, О. Remember these with the phrase, “O, make tea!”

The consonants K, M, and T are pronounced like in English. English vowels have different pronunciations, but that’s not the case in Bulgarian:

А is like the a in palm.
Е is like the e in best.
О is like the o in order.

Next, I learned the letters that look like Latin/Roman characters, but are pronounced differently, В, Н, Р, С, У, and Х.

В was easy for me because I speak Spanish, which pronounces the letter very closely to the English sound V. In Bulgarian, В is pronounced like the V in vet.

I used a mnemonic device to remember Н and Р, a three-letter English word that starts with what the letter looks like and ends with what it sounds like.

HEN reminded me that Н is pronounced like the N in normal.

РAR reminded me that Р is pronounced like the R in rabbit.

С wasn’t difficult. An English C can sound like an S or a K. Since Bulgarian already has a K sound, C has to be the S sound. So С in Bulgarian is pronounced like the S in sound.

У sounds like the “oo” in tool. So I used yoohoo to remember it.

X sounds like the Scottish ch as found in “loch,” a guttural sound that is difficult for English speakers. It is used in Bulgarian Cyrillic to represent the English H as in hell sound as that’s the closest to the Scottish ch we have in English. So when I think of the Bulgarian X, I think of hell!

Next come letters that kind of look like Latin/Roman characters if you squint, б, Г, З, И, Й, Л, П, Ц, Ч, Ш, Щ, Ъ, Ь, Я, and Ф.

Notice that Bulgarian has several letters that look like the Latin/Roman letter B? Yes, it is very confusing. No, I have not mastered telling them apart just yet!

б is the Bulgarian B, like baby. It looks enough like a B to be easily rememberable to me.

Ъ is a vowel that sounds like the U in turn.

Ь is a “soft sign” that I haven’t wrapped my brain around yet. It’s not always pronounced, but if it is, it’s like the Spanish ñ, or the yn in canyon.

I am learning to differentiate Ъ and Ь by the way the word sounds and also because the U-sounding one has a tail. T for tail leads me to T for turn and its U sound.

Г is a hard G sound, like great. I remember RAG.

З kind of looks like a Z if you squint (it helps that I put a line through my zeds). So it sounds like the Z in zoo.

И is another vowel, I like in machine. I remember IN. That’s backwards from my other mnemonic devices, but that’s the point. Backwards N sounds like EE and backwards IN gives me a word that sounds like “Nee.”

Й looks a bit like the Spanish Ñ and that’s all I need to remember it sounds like the Y in yoyo.

Л and П look similar, but I didn’t have any trouble with them because my association for Л is so strong.

Л Looks like my bottom half with my crooked leg. That’s all I need to remember that Л is L as in leg.

П sounds like the P in papa. It looks like an N, so I remember NAP.

Ц might look like a U, but it’s actually pronounced TS like in fits. I remember this one simply because it’s in Yablanitsa.

Ч still trips me up as it looks so much like У. It is the CH sound like in chip, which rhymes with yip.

Ш sounds like the sh sound in shod. I remember WISH.

Щ sounds like the sht sound in schtick or the end of the verb fished. Since it’s Ш with something more, I remember WISHED.

Я sounds like the ya in yarn. I remember it because it’s the first letter in Yablanitsa.

Ф might look like an O, but it’s F as in food. I remember OFF.

That leaves us with only three letters that look rather alien, Д, Ж, and Ю.

Д looks a bit like a shaky A, but is the D sound. So I remember AD.

Ж is a zh sound. The closest in English is the S in treasure. It is also used to make a soft G sound, like in gel. I don’t have a mnemonic device for this one.

And that leaves us with Ю, which is like the U in menu. I don’t have a mnemonic device for this one either.

Once you memorise the sounds, you will be surprised by how much you can understand.

супермаркет is s-oo-p-e-r-m-a-r-k-e-t — supermarket.

хотел is h-o-t-e-l — hotel.

ресторант is r-e-s-t-o-r-a-n-t — restaurant.

такси is t-a-k-s-ee — taxi.

бира is b-ee-r-a — beer.

натурален is n-a-t-oo-r-a-l-e-n — natural.

If you speak French, the number of words you will recognise will be even larger:

жилетка is zh-i-l-e-t-k-a — gilet (vest).

магазин is m-a-g-a-z-i-n — magasin (store).

екипаж is e-k-ee-p-a-zh — équipage (crew).

багаж is b-a-g-a-zh — bagages (baggage).

кафе is k-a-f-eh — café (coffee).

котлет is k-o-t-l-e-t — côtelette (chop (eg. pork)).

Once I learned the Cyrillic alphabet, I forced myself to use it. I do language exercises on my phone and insist on using Cyrillic rather than having the app transliterate for me. It is still very painstaking work, but it is getting easier and there are words that I now immediately recognise and don’t have to sound out. There are a few sounds that don’t seem to be as common, so when I get comfortable with a word that has one of those sounds, I use it as a key. I also force myself to read everything around me that I can, even if I don’t understand most of it!

Being able to read Cyrillic helps immensely, but, of course, I’m limited in what I understand. Also, like with Latin/Roman script, there are an infinite number of fonts and handwriting looks very different. For example, street signage in the area uses a peak, like of like an upside down V, for Л. But since the other letters look familiar, I was able to adjust to that.

I haven’t yet learned to write Cyrillic. The above script is what’s used in print. Handwritten Cyrillic is very different.

As a bonus, there are many languages that  look and sound very similar to Bulgarian. Don’t make the mistake of thinking they are interchangeable (ie. that you can learn Russian and you’ll be able to read Bulgarian or vice-versa fluently), but they are close enough that there is a measure of mutual intelligibility. You have no idea how excited I got the day I discovered I could read and understand some Russian! I’m planning to go to Serbia next and while its alphabet has a few differences from Bulgarian, the two are close enough that I’ll have an edge when I start looking at that language.

Learning Cyrillic was easy for me once I was motivated to do so. It really took only a couple of hours to learn the bulk of the letters and then I spent dozens of hours applying my knowledge. I carry a cheat sheet with me at all times and if I forget what a sound is, I look it up rather than skipping over it. I think anyone coming to countries that use Cyrillic would find it to their advantage to learn how to read it.

Ice Broken!

I tried going into the little village shop again today… and made it in. Amazing what an accomplishment that felt like! I was thrilled that they had beer as that was at the top of my shopping list. I hoped to be able to browse at my leisure, but it’s one of those places where everything is behind the counter.

I took a deep breath and asked the attendant for bread. It is a really tough word to pronounce and she didn’t get me the first time. I was going to dig for my dictionary and show her what I wanted when she clued in and said, “Bread?” “Da!” I replied. That was all the excitement I could handle for one afternoon and I made a “that’s it” type of motion with my hands. She told me my total and showed it to me on a piece of paper, 3.65BGN (2.92CAD). These are 0.5L containers of beer. The bread looks very fresh. I would have preferred whole grain, but it’s better than nothing.

IMG_1261

My nice neighbour, Vasa, wanted to chat as I was coming up the hill, but my Bulgarian was useless for that. I reminded her “No Bulgarian!” and then listed my pitiful list of words. She laughed. I did understand when she asked when Max is coming back and also when she said that Bulgarian will come if I work at it. I am, but it’s slow going. I wish there was an app like Duolingo for Bulgarian. I just haven’t found the app that’s making the language stick.

Well, there are two dogs clamouring for my attention, so I guess it’s walk time. Then beer! 😀

Chicken

No, I haven’t found a Bulgarian chicken lady. The chicken is me. Yesterday evening, I walked down to the village square with the intent of checking out the small shop in the hope that it carries beer and bread and… I chickened out. It’s a combination café and there were people outside and it was just too much. I came home resolute to learn how to say “good day” and “I don’t speak Bulgarian” in the next couple of days. “Good day” is problematic because there are so many ways and they depend on the time of day and who you’re speaking with because, like French and Spanish, Bulgarian has a polite form and I haven’t yet figured out the most generic and least offensive thing I could say to absolutely everyone.

On the way home, I ran into the owner of the guesthouse at the bottom of the hill, to whom I was introduced at the market on Friday. He speaks basic English and asked me where I’m from and how long I’m staying. When he learned that I came all the way from Canada to Bulgaria for the first time and am committed to three months, his eyes went wide and he said, “Good for you!”

I really should start thinking about getting back to work, even without a decent work station, so I can have a pay cheque on Friday. But I’m more focused on my Bulgarian studies now that I have good internet access now and can easily watch YouTube videos and interact with apps that require an internet connection.

I cannot believe what a difference it makes to be able to read Cyrillic! I am going to do a post about that later because it really wasn’t hard and helps so much. For example, when I got to the village square yesterday and looked to where the store was, I noticed a sign that said магазин — mah-gah-zin. Sounds almost exactly like the French magasin, which is a store. So I knew I was at the right place. When in Teteven the other day, I knew where the food store was before we went in because of a sign that said супермаркет, which literally sounds like supermarket. I’m discovering that there are hundreds, if not thousands, of written Bulgarian words I already understand that is making the language less intimidating.

I’m off to hang my laundry. I suspect I’ll be doing that a lot since I don’t have many clothes… I’m trying to fall into a routine before I get to work in earnest. I’ve been getting up, taking the dogs for their walk, and then coming back to have coffee and breakfast. I’d like to keep that up and then quit work around five to do the afternoon walk. I do have to get back into an earlier routine, though, as I’ve been getting up past nine!

Trying to Figure Out London’s Oyster Card

One thing I remember from Scotland that has not improved in 20 years is that there are a lot of different transportation agencies in the UK and they don’t place nicely with each other. So it’s a miracle, really, that London has such good public transportation considering how many players are in the game. They all operate under the name Transport for London (TFL), but they are very much separate entities (including Underground, Overground, National Rail, but there are many more!).

All of these companies servicing London agree to use a payment method known as Oyster. It’s a prepaid electronic card that offers big savings over buying individual tickets. UK residents (and visitors from some other countries, depending on their banks) can use a contactless credit card instead and get the same rates. There are other ways to pay for transport, including daily travel cards, but going with Oyster made the most sense for my trip because it offers a daily cap. That means that after spending so much, you get unlimited travel. Once I got to my Airbnb, I would only be traveling between zones 1 and 2, with a daily cap of £6.50.  I downloaded my journey history and see that if you make at least three trips in a day, the daily cap offers a lot of value.

I bought my Oyster card at Gatwick train terminal, paying a refundable £5 deposit and adding £30 of credit. It would cost me £8 just to get to Central London, plus however much to get to Kensal Green. This first day wound up being very expensive, transportation-wise, because I went back to Central London in the late afternoon, with my travel costs for the day being £15. But if I had not gotten my Oyster card and had instead taken the much better advertised “Gatwick Express” train, I would have paid £20 just to get to Central London. So I think this illustrates the value of going with Oyster.

Here is my travel history and the fares:

Saturday, June 25th:

Gatwick to Kensal Green: £10.20

Kensal Green to Regent’s Park: £2.40

Baker Street to Kensal Green: £2.40

Total: £15

Note: I did not reach any caps on this day.

Sunday, June 25th:

Kensal Green to Westminster: £2.40

Knightsbridge to Baker Street: £2.40

Baker Street to Kensal Green: £1.70

Total: £6.50

Note: My last trip was capped. If I had, say, taken a bus from Kensal Green to home, the bus ride would have been free.

Monday, June 26th:

Kensal Green to Euston (on National Rail): £2.40

Russell Square to Kensal Green: £2.90

Total: £5.30

Note: This day offered me the least value since I didn’t reach my cap.

Tuesday, June 27th:

Kensal Green to London Bridge: £2.90

St. Paul’s to Green Park: £2.40

Piccadilly Circus to Kensal Green: £1.20

Total: £6.50

Note: This is a day that if I hadn’t had a card with a cap, I would have likely walked from St. Paul’s to The Wolseley to save the £1.40 I would have spent on a full fare ride…

Wednesday, June 29th:

Kensal Green to London Victoria: £2.40

Note: This is where I cashed out my Oyster card and got my £5 deposit back, but still got to keep the card and the little wallet with three slots they’d given me to go with it. I was rather happy with the latter item since I only brought a change purse with me and was worried that my cards will get scratched up in it. Now, I have a solid and slim place to store my cards safely.

Total spent on Oyster while in London (not counting the deposit): £35.70 or about 65CAD.

Topping up Oyster is where things got really messy. There are self-serve machines at all stations where you can top up. I tried three times in one day and while TFL took my money, none of the credit was applied to my Oyster card. I knew that I had to tap my card a second time for the top up to “take,” but I never got the prompt for that. When I called my bank, they had London Overground and Southern Rail (I think) as having taken my money, not TFL. When I called the Oyster helpline, they were absolutely useless, something that makes a lot more sense now that I understand that many different companies take payment for Oyster. I’m monitoring my credit card and none of the failed Oyster charges have actually posted. Once I catch up on my bookkeeping, I will be able to confirm if Oyster released my funds or not.

How I ended up successfully topping up was going to a newsagent (convenience store/dépanneur) in Kensal Green with an “Oyster Stop” poster in the front window. She was very patient and guided me through the steps, giving me a receipt as proof that I’d added £10 to my card. I recommend topping up this way even if it’s not as convenient.

One final Oyster tip, how to use it! For rail travel, you have to touch in and out at the start and end of your journey. For buses, which I did not use, you just have to tap in. If you forget to tap out, you will be charged the largest possible fare. Also, note there are very steep penalties if you cannot provide proof of payment and that fares for some zones differ based on the time of day! I wish I had known Sunday that’s not the case for zones 1 and 2 because I would have left earlier instead of waiting for the “off peak” time to save a few pounds.

Even after using Oyster for four days, it still leaves me a little bewildered. But it was really nice to be able to pass through the gates so quickly like a local!

London Recap

My brief trip to London already feels like it happened in a dream. It might feel more real when I get my Visa statement… 😀

I decided that I would only be there a few days and that therefore I didn’t have a budget (within reason), a huge decision for me considering the price of food! I am so grateful that I happened to be in London at the first time in my life that I could make that decision, which was further aided, of course, by knowing I had almost no bills ahead of me in Bulgaria.

I got to London with very little knowledge of the city and even fewer expectations. I’m glad I made the decision to not take a London crash course that would have had me trying to cram even more into my brief stay, but rather explored at my own pace. I still managed to pack in a lot and am exhausted, so I can’t imagine have been to fit more in anyway…

Food and attraction prices not withstanding, I found London very accessible. It is very easy to get around in, the locals are incredibly friendly, and I felt safe.

Service in restaurants was always stellar. I liked that I didn’t have to tip since there was always a service charge included. The food was generally fantastic. My two favourite meals, not counting my ultra special afternoon tea, were, for a sit down meal, the curry platter in Kensal Rise, and, for takeaway, the falafel on Baker Street.

One of my big treats while there was that I took advantage of my body not knowing what time it was to wait to have coffee until I got to Central London and then buying espressos at proper sit down restaurants (except my last one at Victoria London). I didn’t have a single “fast food” drip coffee my whole time in London (even my last one was an espresso made just for me). My coffee expenditures averaged £2.50 per day. My best coffee was the cappuccino at Speedy’s and my worst (which was still excellent) was the Americano at Café Rouge.

The attractions I paid for offered good value even if they were expensive. I would have regretted paying for the admission to the aquarium, but since it was free, I’m glad I went. I still think Madame Tussaud’s wasn’t necessarily the best use of my time in London, but it’s something I’ve wanted to do at least one more time in my life and I got a good deal on my ticket. I don’t have a favourite attraction I visited, but have to say that the London Eye and St. Paul’s are must dos! The Eye should be done early in a visit to London to give an idea of the city’s layout. St. Paul’s is worth a visit for the architecture. If you’re fit enough to climb to the Golden Gallery, you will be rewarded with another amazing overview of London. The Roman amphitheatre is off the beaten path and not well-known, so I feel like I discovered a secret bit of London to call my own.

When I go back to London, because that feels like a certainty to me, I hope I will be able to afford to stay in Central London so I can check out the nightlife. But considering how little I knew of the city when I booked my Airbnb, I did a stellar job of choosing it. I would never have been able to enjoy London as much as I did had I paid much more than the 55.50CAD a night I ended up paying! I have to say that I enjoyed staying in a house in the suburbs as it felt like I was living as a local.

To sum up, London absolutely charmed the skirt off me!

Which reminds me of a funny story I forgot to tell. I don’t remember at which tube station this happened, but my skirt got caught in the escalator mechanism. It didn’t rip, thankfully (although it got very greasy), but I ended up flashing my drawers before I managed to rescue it!!! Needless to say, I was VERY careful to hold my skirt up on all future escalator rides!