Dinner at La Chaya Maya, Mérida

I wanted to try Yucatán cuisine while I’m here (duh!) and yesterday Buzzfeed Mexico helpfully published a list of 12 of the best Yucatán restaurants in Mérida. Number two on the list, La Chaya Maya, was about 2KM away and really well reviewed, so I decided to go there for dinner. I must have walked close to 20km today, btw!

I’ve passed these former beauties several times today:

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There are two Chaya Mayas and the best reviewed is this one at the corner of Calles 62 and 57.

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I was given an English menu. It was actually pretty well translated, but not particularly helpful. I gave up trying to imagine what anything tastes like and zeroed in on this “Flavours of the Yucatán” deal that would give me four different items for just $95! I ordered it as “sabores del Yucatán,” though. 😉

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I ordered a XX beer, but the server said that the bartender wouldn’t sell me one because they weren’t cold enough. Dinner was off to a good start! I picked a beer at random, Montejo, and discovered that I have a new favourite Mexican beer! It is a pale lager that is incredibly smooth. I could have downed several of those!

Beer came with totopos, two kinds of refried beans, habanero sauce, and salsa mexicana (“pico de gallo”). The habanero sauce took out a layer of my taste buds. The brown beans had a strange flavour that was okay, but not really to my taste. The black beans were awesome and the salsa mexicana had an extra ingredient in it, possibly sweetened vinegar, that made it addictive!

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So here’s my meal. Isn’t it pretty?!

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The turkey on the left was soaked in a black sauce reminiscent of squid ink in appearance only. The middle one was also turkey and I’m pretty sure the other two were pork. Yucatán is not an agricultural state like Sinaloa and so the cuisine is very meat-heavy.

Using their online menu and my incredible powers of deduction, I think I had:

Top: vaporcito (not on the menu). It’s shredded meat with masa around it and a red sauce over top.

Bottom Left: relleno negro taco (black-filled taco). The black apparently comes from a mixture of a bunch of spices and chiles…

Bottom Middle: panucho (black beans smeared on a tortilla) with shredded turkey and veggies.

Bottom Right: cochinita (pulled pork marinated in sour orange and other things) and topped with purple stuff.

Everything was just delicious (and nothing was even remotely spicy!). It was all foreign to me and I’m having a hard time remembering what each individual thing tasted like. I know the panucho turkey tasted like a well roasted turkey that had been brined, but had no other seasoning. It was the best plain fowl I’ve had in Mexico. The black stuff was my favourite. I sampled everything, then worked my way around the plate to finish with the black taco. I left one and a half tortillas and the egg behind, but otherwise gobbled up everything. I really need to go back and try each thing individually. But, hey, now I know there are four things on the menu that I like!

The bill had a cute presentation:

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I found the beer very pricy at $31 (and I ordered off the cheap menu!), but even with a generous tip, my dinner came to only $150, or 12.35CAD. I know! If that’s the going rate for a gourmet meal in Mérida, I’ll be able to eat out like this every night!

Needless to say, I’d recommend La Chaya Maya!

I was pretty stuffed and actually looked forward to my walk home after. But I did mull over whether that was a good idea. I’m in a very residential neighbourhood that is very dark and quiet at night. It is well kept up, though, and the bulk of my walk was up a street with buses passing frequently, so I decided I was okay to walk. I passed three people on my walk home and they were all women about my age walking alone. There you go!

Not only does Mérida have street name signs and addresses, it actually let’s drivers know they are turning on a one-way street and which direction to go. *squints at Guamúchil*

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First Amble in Mérida

After this morning’s post, I headed down Mérida’s famed Paseo de Montejo, a beautiful boulevard, to find the nearby Waldo’s to get a few more things for my place. I was really hoping to find ice cream quickly and was delighted when I got to the corner of my street and the busier 35 that a man on a peddle cart was headed my way. Could I be that lucky? Yes! He had ice cream cones! I flagged him down and asked what he had. Coconut ice cream. Yum! A small cone was just $10. It looks quite melty in the picture, but it wasn’t at all.

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I had to make a few turns until I got to the Paseo de Montejo.

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And crossed my first of several scary intersections. I do have to give kudos for there being crosswalks showing exactly where to risk your life and I actually found the drivers here more respectful of pedestrians than what I’m used to in Maz.

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It was scorching out, so this short tree covered stretch was welcome!

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I am literally around the corner from Walmart. Pity I don’t like Mexican Walmarts at all. I always come out feeling that they don’t have anything and what they do have is expensive.

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The next roundabout had some amazing rock work:

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I was apparently in the “historic monument zone.”

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Other side of the roundabout:

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I passed an establishment called Delorean. How many famous faces can you spot in the picture below? Front centre are the Beatles and way above them is Edgar Allan Poe. I suppose the name of the place rather explains the strange cast of characters. 🙂

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This Ford dealership is very likely going to be where I buy my next vehicle! What I want is 10,000CAD cheaper in Mexico and has options, like a manual transmission, that I can’t even get back in Canada.

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This mosaic was gorgeous:

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This restaurant has a menu written on the door in French:

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Oh, look, a pub! I’ll have to see if they’re open one of these evenings! I’ve missed living near a pub that I can walk to.

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Two and a half kilometres from home, I found this trifeca: a huge Waldo’s, an Office Deport, and a good Soriana-style grocery store. Of course, I can’t remember the name of said store now! Starts with an A!

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I went into Waldo’s and got a few things, then went to the grocery store to buy a pot and see what they were selling. They had hummus, but it’s labeled as “botana arabe” (Arabic snack) here. No, I didn’t buy any to try it. 🙂

I took one road over from Paseo de Montejo to get part of the way home and came across this gem. Too bad the tree seems to have died on them!

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As I approached my turnoff on Paseo de Montejo, I remembered that I have a garrafón of water coming, so I popped into Walmart to get a pump for it. They’re just $40, so I don’t mind picking one up and this way I know it’s clean. I checked out the kitchen wares and they were dismal. The pot I’d picked up was super cheap ($65) and there was nowhere near anything at that price for that quality at Walmart.

I got in and made a quick lunch (using my new pot!). I failed at finding a potential spot to have dinner tonight, so I need to get on Google for that. I’ve already walked at least 10KM today, so I hope to find somewhere nearby!

It’s really hot, but no worse than in Maz, and I’m used to the sun now so I don’t burn as easily, even through sunscreen. I’m just going to hang out here at the apartment for a bit and relax since I’m beat. Time to research some touristy stuff I could possibly do tomorrow. 🙂

First Morning in Mérida

I didn’t sleep well last night, but that’s normal for being in an unfamiliar place. It was surprisingly quiet except for the odd train whistle that I think I could learn to live with. My street is a little cul-de-sac (calle cerrada/closed street) so there was no traffic and my apartment is well off the street anyway. The bed was surprisingly comfy, and very much so by Mexican standards, so that wasn’t a problem. I would have liked a blanket and not just a sheet because I prefer sleeping with some weight over me, but temperature-wise, I was comfortable. I went to bed just past midnight and gave up on sleep at 8:00.

First order of business was coffee. I’d brought my French press, pre-ground beans, and milk. The only thing available in which I could boil a small amount of water was an enameled pot, so I used that, knowing the handle would get really hot! I had to wash everything I used, mug, spoon, and pot, because they had been washed with a sponge that had seen better days. The water here smells pretty bad, almost mouldy. No idea if that’s because the tinaco needs a rinse or if it’s just a city water quality issue. I don’t drink it, so I’m not too concerned. I’ll do like at home (Isla) and make sure things are dry before I use them.

Coffee made, I enjoyed it on my deck off the bedroom. What a treat this space is! I’m going to spend a lot of time out here as it has the most comfortable chairs in the house. I have some proofing work to do while I’m here and what an office this space will make!

I had scoped out the neighbourhood using Google Maps, but was pretty sure that they didn’t have the exact apartment pinned down. I was right. What I saw on Google Map is Calle 36, the next street over, which is a main thoroughfare. This is where I live:

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You go through that door into a charming little courtyard with a tile floor and textured walls:

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I forgot to grab a picture of the courtyard, sorry. 🙂 There’s just a metal staircase leading up to an apartment.

My building is behind the one you see on the street. There’s a very narrow path leading to it. Much measuring would ensue if I had to buy furniture and appliances for this place!

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There are three apartments in my building. I’m on the second level and the third level has the roof as a terrace.

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My front door is at the top of the first flight of the spiral staircase.

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Inside, the layout is standard. Entrance/living room/kitchenette, short hallway with a bathroom behind the kitchen, and a huge bedroom at the back with an open closet.

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The little bit of orange in the kitchen and the dark brown mouldings make the white walls and floors a lot easier to stomach than my equally bland place on Isla. I’m surprised that I could see myself living in this space long-term! The bedroom is large enough to neatly separate into the two rooms I would need, but, of course, I wouldn’t have any guest quarters. But I’d consider coming back here when I start house hunting if I do end up doing so in this neighbourhood.

First order of business after coffee was getting some groceries. Both Google and Apple swore there is a Soriana five blocks away, but they both goofed. It was twenty blocks away. While they had the correct address, 514, they had the location at being around 415.

It was a pleasant enough walk there, the crowds increasing the closer I got to the 500 block. Getting around Mérida will be easy since all the streets are numbered. Odds go in one direction, evens in the other. All streets are well marked and most buildings have addresses on them.

Soriana was very small, just a food store, but it was adequate for my most immediate needs. I was glad to be in a familiar store where I could just grab the products I know and not have to over think things since it was very busy. I still need to go out to Waldo’s (which hopefully will be where Google says it is) to get some cheap cooking things since there isn’t even a decent spatula.

I schlepped home with only just what I could carry that far. I washed a few things and put together a very nice toasted ham, cheese, and tomato sandwich as my brunch. I had passed a few small loncherias where I could have grabbed breakfast, but I wasn’t that hungry until I’d worked up an appetite and was happy to baptise the kitchen I’ll be living with for a week.

One thing I need to sort out ASAP is water. I have some empty garrafons (5 gallon jugs), so I’m hoping there is an exchange system like on Isla. I go through a garrafon a week, so I’m much better off getting one of those than buying smaller water containers. I just sent my host a text asking about that and FINALLY added the Spanish keyboard to my iPhone. Should have done that sooner! Took only two seconds. *shakes head*

Oh, here’s a text from my host. Water can be bought from the tienda right at the corner, but if I can wait till 5:30, he’ll bring me one. I am not schlepping one of those things that far and up those stairs, plus I bought a litre for today, so I can wait! 🙂

First impressions of this part of Mérida? Quiet (quite a respite from bustling Isla, to be honest), clean, neat, walkable, with friendly locals. I’m just off of the main thoroughfare for this neighbourhood, Paseo de Montejo, and that’s where I’m headed next as I meander my way to where Waldo’s is supposed to be. I’m also going to scope out a spot to grab dinner tonight!