Tacos Al Pastor At Last

Ellen: All I want to know, I just want to know one simple thing. When do I get to become an Islander?
Councilwoman: Ellen, never! Never! You’re not born here — you’re not an Islander.

When reading up about tacos early in my Mexican stay, I became obsessed with finding al pastor tacos. They are made of pork meat marinated in pineapple juice (and other yummy stuff) and roasted on a spit like gyros meat. Since I have been in Maz, I have been looking for these elusive tacos, chasing dead internet leads and finding places that claim to have al pastor tacos, but the meat is merely cooked on the barbecue. I know I could have probably asked and been directed to some, but this was my own little treasure hunt for the winter!

I had the right idea on how to find them, walk and walk and walk and follow my nose, but I found them in the last place I would have expected… the Golden Zone, right on Camarón Sábalo!

So  I’ve been working myself to the bone the last few days because a client is injured and her other main subcontractor is ill. If this company goes down, I go down, so like the little Dutch boy, I stuck my finger in the dam and typed, typed, typed.

I was finally done the project by 11:00 today and was done for the day, needless to say! I have work for tomorrow and through the weekend, but it’s a normal amount. I haven’t been to town in a full week, so I decided to head out for lunch and to pick up a few groceries.

All the pangas now have these brand new life jackets with their names on them.

All the pangas now have these brand new life jackets with their names on them.

Cruise ship in dock. I saw some of the guests on a 'topless tour' of Maz. Get your head out of the gutter, topless refers to no roof on a double decker bus!

Cruise ship in dock. I saw some of the guests on a ‘topless tour’ of Maz. Get your head out of the gutter, topless refers to no roof on a double decker bus!

I think this is a graveyard.

I think this is a ship graveyard.

I did my normal route to the bus stop, picking up a grapefruit juice on the way.

Ooh!

Ooh!

So purty!

So purty!

Delivering mail in style!

Delivering mail in style!

Then, I rode the bus to just past the Rafael Buelna roundabout. The taco places I’d seen advertising tacos al pastor were all in a row on the southbound side of Camarón Sábalo and I went into the first one as it looked very clean, but not as Gringoified as the others. I had a good feeling I made the right choice when the server did a double take as a I came in and told me, in a very thick accent, “Sorry, no menu English.”

The restaurant is right across the Deloitte building on Camarón Sábalo.

The restaurant is right across the Deloitte building on Camarón Sábalo.

Ah, deliciousness on a spit!

Ah, deliciousness on a spit!

Ta'Locos

Ta’Loco

The prices were typical for authentic Mexican fare. The al pastor tacos were something like $13 each or four for $40. I ordered two and a limonada that, at $35, was more expensive than my food!

Before my tacos arrived, I was presented with four bowls of salsa (pico de gallo, avocado, spicy pimento, and brown deliciousness, as well as a plate of limes and cucumbers and another of chips. I’m glad I only ordered two tacos! And I’m also glad that I called the server back to specify corn tortillas because he had told the cook flour ones, which, by the way, were double the price! Crisis averted! 🙂

The cucumbers were really good... especially dipped in salsa. :)

The cucumbers were really good… especially dipped in salsa. 🙂

I liked all of these salsas. The avocado, pico de gallo, and brown one at the top right were not particularly spicy. The creamy orange one on the top left was HOT but add flavour, like pimento cheese, and I actually made some inroads in it!

I liked all of these salsas. The avocado, pico de gallo, and brown one at the top right were not particularly spicy. The creamy orange one on the top left was HOT but had flavour, like pimento cheese, and I actually made some inroads in it!

And behold tacos al pastor! Marinated pork, pineapple, onion, and cilantro:

I finally found a dish where cilantro felt like it belonged...

I finally found a dish where cilantro felt like it belonged…

They were everything I hoped they would be and so worth the search! I loaded on the salsas and dug in. I didn’t get any utensils, so I used chips to scoop up what fell out!

When I was done, I worked my way through the rest of the chips, cucumbers, and limonda, then paid the $62 tab (plus a $10 tip).

I am getting used to being served toothpicks after a meal.

I am getting used to being served toothpicks after a meal.

I decided to brave the bathroom and was surprised to find a rather nice very recently redone bathroom with everything but toilet seats. By the way, navy blue toilets seem to be the rage in Mexico!

On the way to lunch, I had seen something I haven’t seen since San Carlos, a Thrifty’s ice cream parlour! So that’s where I headed after lunch!

Hey, a Thrifty's ice cream place!

Hey, a Thrifty’s ice cream place!

I love nieve de garrafa, but sometimes you want a real proper chocolately ice cream and that is surprisingly difficult to find in Maz. I ordered a scoop of chocolate brownie in a regular (galleta) cone. I remember thinking in San Carlos that $29 was cheap for an ice cream cone, but I don’t think that anymore. 🙂

Then, I headed to Mega and took a picture of a restaurant that has caught my eye a few times:

Killer sushi, huh? Might want to rethink the name...

Killer sushi, huh? Might want to rethink the name…

I was just at the Mega parking lot when I realised I didn’t want to get my groceries there. I didn’t need anything I couldn’t get at the little Ley and lugging stuff home from Mega would be a huge pain unless I took a pulmonía, which would have been the best thing to do since I wanted mostly cold stuff.

So I went back to Avenida del mar to catch the bus and just missed it. I waited about 15 minutes for the next one.

I did see something that made up somewhat for the wait. A car inched its way down Avenida del mar and there was an old man in the back seat practically hanging out the window yelling, “It’s the ocean! It’s the OCEAN!!!”

The car was plated in Chihuahua, a non-coastal state, so I’m thinking this was the man’s first trip to the sea. I am choking up thinking about how joyful he sounded.

I finally got on a bus and did some research on my phone about reliable web hosts since I’ve decided to move the blog to a better provider after uskeba.ca was down for about an hour this afternoon.

I put the phone away as we turned into Centro as this was only my second time riding towards the Mercado and I wanted to get a better sense of the route. The (Mexican) lady sitting next to me then asked if the Mercado was coming up, telling me she just moved to Maz and doesn’t know the buses yet.

I look so much like a tourist in my sundresses that I’m shocked she asked me, but I guess that since I did the bulk of the route buried in my phone, I must have appeared to be an experienced bus rider. I told her we were about four blocks from the Mercado and to just wait for a huge crowd to stand up to know where to get off!

After we passed Zaragoza and turned onto Aquiles Serdan, I realised that I didn’t need to go all the way to the Mercado (I was exhausted and ready to get home). I got up and the bus stopped at the corner of Melchor Ocampo, the street the Ley is on!

So I only had a couple of blocks to walk and there was the store. I really like the little Ley as it’s so compact that you can get in and out very quickly when you know what you want. My top priority was powdered milk, which I use in my coffee. It was on sale again and about a quarter the cost of what I pay in Canada, so I picked up two bags and that should get me through until I get back in November.

WOW. A bag like this is about $12 (4x the cost) back home!

WOW. A bag like this is about $12 (4x the cost) back home!

I’ve figured out the shortest route from the Ley to the panga, so I was at the dock in short order. There, a family was crowding the ticket booth debating whether or not to go over and the ticket seller took pity on me and told them to move aside. I paid my $8 and as I was putting away my change, I heard the man complain about the cost of the fare ($30 round trip x 4 people=$120) and the fact that I hadn’t paid that much. I then heard some very sweet words, “¡La chica es una Isleña!” (the girl is an Islander). 😀

Semana Santa: Sunday On the Beach

I was thrown for a loop by the time change today. So by 2:00, I’d done what I’d done by 1:00 the previous days and felt soooo far behind even though I technically wasn’t! I almost didn’t go out, then I decided that I wasn’t going to punish myself for not realising there would be a time change this weekend or the fact that the only reason I’m so swamped is that I’m doing a favour for a client who injured herself last week. It’s not like I’ve been procrastinating on work.

It’s been another quiet day on Isla, but not as much as yesterday because my neighbours, who share the office wall, are working on their roof. Much banging and house shaking ensues every few minutes, which makes it even more amazing that I’ve managed to stay on track with production today!

I headed down to the beach for a quick walk and there really weren’t that many more people there than on an average gorgeous weekend.

Great kite flying weather.

Great kite flying weather.

The beach always has lifeguards, but there were extra for this week.

The beach always has lifeguards, but there were extra for this week.

Still a good crowd.

Still a good crowd.

I picked a nieve de garrafa vendor at random and she had nut, vanilla, lime, and cheese. I asked for half lime and half cheese because I was curious about it. What an awesome combination, kind of like key lime pie! The lime was very runny, but the cheese was solid and had toothsome bits of cream cheese chunks in it. 25 pesos, though. ¡Caramba!

A very runny treat.

A very runny treat.

At the end of the beach, I cut through a restaurant parking lot to get to the road the parallels the water instead of climbing up to the main road and then circling back as I really didn’t have much time.

Coming around the dangerous curve before my street, this sign caught my attention:

Let's play what's wrong with this picture.

Let’s play what’s wrong with this picture.

Do you see why I noticed it?

And since I had my camera out, I finally got a few shots of the Hobbit house that never fails to make me smile:

The hobbit house is lovely.

The Hobbit house is lovely.

This place always makes me smile.

This place always makes me smile.

So I guess Semana Santa is over. What a lot of fuss of nothing. And by that, I mean that I was warned repeatedly that the week would bring chaos and hordes to Isla and that I’d be best to hunker down at home and never come out until the crowds leave. Oh, and I shouldn’t plan to get any work done because of excessive noise levels.

Well, there was neither hordes nor chaos this week, never mind excessive noise levels. A lot of people, yes, but not to uncomfortable levels. It was wonderful to be out and about, try various treats, talk to people, and even give directions. I really felt like I was part of the Isla community this week and I am so glad I soaked in some of wonderful the Semana Santa vibes!

A Disturbing Trend

I’m reading a lot of border crossing stories this month on blogs and social media and I’m noticing a disturbing trend: bragging about pulling one over the border guards, sneaking in illegal things, divulging hidden spots that were not discovered, etc.

It boggles me that people think that they are writing in a vacuum.

My first significant crossing into the US was in 2011. After talking with me, the guards went into the motorhome, did a search, and found my ebook CDs (some were out in plain sight). This gave them the name I use on a daily basis and they used that information to do a Google search on me. They were open about this and showed me what they had found — my blog, my two Facebook accounts, my professional website, everything. And everything they found corroborated what I had told them and after some more chatting, they let me go on my merry way.

My people’s social activity is under their legal name (ie. the name in their passport) and therefore much more easy to find than mine. Governments use social media to corroborate things you tell them. Every provincial healthcare insurance plan admitted to me in 2011 when I was doing my research for the full-timing ebook that they use things like Facebook and blogs to see if people really were in the province when they said they were.

This doesn’t affect just you, but everyone else in line behind you. All it takes is one bored officer searching the web to realise that, hey, people are hiding stuff in their garbage/dirty laundry/plant pots , and next thing you know, searches become more invasive.

This is not paranoia. This is the government being savvy and people being naïve. Please think about what you post online.

Semana Santa: Saturday On the Beach

It was eerily quiet on Isla this morning, to the point that it, ironically, made it difficult to concentrate! By 2:00, I’d done 60% of my work for today, so it was time to go out and see if the world had ended overnight. I’m not being facetious. It was that quiet!

I guess that Friday is the big day on the beach for Semana Santa because today, to my surprise, was no busier than Wednesday. It is overcast with a cool breeze, but the sun is hot, so I can’t imagine the Mexicans find this too cool for their taste, or maybe they do…

This part of the beach was teeming with people yesterday!

This part of the beach was teeming with people yesterday!

This is practically empty!

This is practically empty!

Sabritas, another word to look up!

Sabritas, another word to look up!

Well, that was anti-climatic. Sabritas are a brand of snack food similar to Frito-Lays.

Clusters of colourful parasols near the climb to the panga.

Clusters of colourful parasols near the climb to the panga.

Still quite a few people in the water.

Still quite a few people in the water.

Ride on top kayaks are fun. I've never tried one in the ocean, though.

Ride on top kayaks are fun. I’ve never tried one in the ocean, though.

These banana ride on top boats are very popular here.

These banana ride on top boats are very popular here.

Instead of a raspado, I decided to approach one of the nieve de garrafa vendors and ask what flavours he had. I remember strawberry, nut, lemon, and chocolate chip, but I know he had more than that. I picked strawberry and even opted for a cone since it was going to be lunch. 🙂 It was a huge portion, and only 15 pesos, but not nearly as good as the stuff I get in Maz. But again, 15 pesos! And I have to say the cone was probably the best part! 🙂

So pretty and yummy!

So pretty and yummy!

He asked if I wanted syrup on it. I wasn’t sure what it was and asked for a little bit. It turned out to be strawberry, too, and super tasty!

Heading to Google to figure out what agua de cebada is.

Heading to Google to figure out what agua de cebada is.

Agua de cebada, or barley water, is a refreshing non-alcoholic drink of Spanish origin.

Another empty and CLEAN section of beach.

Another empty and CLEAN section of beach.

Unexpected art.

Unexpected art.

Semana Santa: Friday On the Beach

I was done with half my work for the day  by 1:00, which considering the amount I have to do was quite a feat. I headed out to see what was happening on the beach. We’d woken to overcast conditions, but it was now very hot and sunny, with a wonderful breeze.

More cones at the end of my street.

More cones at the end of my street.

I said hello to the police officer at the end of my street and he asked why I wasn’t dressed for swimming. I told him I was just going for a quick peek at the beach, this being my first winter on Isla and therefore my first Semana Santa. He then asked how I am liking Semana Santa so far and I struggled to articulate that the atmosphere is pleasant, settling on “the soul of the beach is so peaceful”, and, from the expression on his face, that got my point across. I said that no one’s drinking to excess, the children are having fun, the music is lovely, etc.

The guy doing the parking next to the bright pink house piped up and said that it was nice to see a Gringa out and about enjoying the festivities and asked how come I haven’t left with everyone. Well, I sure wasn’t going to go into the real reason (ie. I got an extension on my healthcare coverage to be out of the province for eight months), but rather said that I’m not in a hurry. 🙂

And with that, I bid them farewell and headed down to the beach, avoiding all the vehicles, motorbikes, bikes, and ATVs hell bent on running me over. 😀

Lineup coming from The Road.

Lineup coming from The Road.

That end of the beach is getting more crowded.

That end of the beach is getting more crowded.

About the same this way.

About the same this way.

I ran into the blanket guy, as I expected I would, as I put in an order with him last week and told him I’d be looking for him the first week of April. I wanted a blanket with more yellow and he had a couple, but the only one that I liked was just like my first one, only with yellow instead of pink. I wanted something different and picked a traditional ‘rainbow’ pattern instead.

The light in the bedroom sucks and doesn't do justice to this blanket!

The light in the bedroom sucks and doesn’t do justice to this blanket!

This one will go on my bed at home and the other one will be for the bed in the back. I told him flat out that I’m done with blankets for this year and hope that he won’t harass me buy more. I’m very pleased to have picked these up as I’ve been looking for something for the bed in the back for ages.

I then continued on in search of raspado and came upon the same guy as Wednesday. I have never seen anyone so excited to see me without the words ‘It’s Rae from Travels With Miranda!’ being uttered! He had his wife with him to handle the money and he said, “That’s her! That’s her! That’s the Canadian gal! She bought a pineapple one from me, no caramel, no milk!” Then, to me, “Right? Am I right?” I laughed and said yes. The woman shook he her head and said, “My husband’s crazy. What do you want today?” I picked guava and, OH! So yummy! I got an extra scoop each of syrup and fruit compared to my last two raspados. And then, he said, “She pays a special price, 20!” I felt like a celebrity, LOL!

Strawberries with crema. I love how Mexicans turn fruit into fairly healthy snacks.

Strawberries with crema. I love how Mexicans turn fruit into fairly healthy snacks.

There were more hot food vendors today.

There were more hot food vendors today.

Rather than return home by the beach, I decided to go up and check out what was going on at this end of the village. It was probably a dumb idea to climb up when the foot path is so narrow and there was a long column coming down, but I hugged the wall and barreled my way up.

Enterprising person renting out the bathroom in their house.

Enterprising person renting out the bathroom in their house.

The beach panga was going non-stop.

The beach panga was going non-stop.

Big tanker in dock.

Big tanker in dock.

The Doric Breeze.

The Doric Breeze.

Campsite in the shade.

Campsite in the shade.

This would be a nice location to live.

This would be a nice location to live.

And it's for rent!

And it’s for rent!

Throngs of people coming off a tour boat.

Throngs of people coming off a tour boat.

It’s definitely busier today than the other days and I can feel it from the house, with more music and traffic. But it’s not overwhelming in the least and I don’t feel a need to hunker down in my house, like I was advised would probably be the best thing to do. I’m just concerned about the noise levels going up. Right now, there’s very loud music very close by and I am going to have to shut the office window. Hopefully, the fan will keep me cool!