Quantifying Linguistic Progress

One of my goals for this winter was to improve my Spanish and gain more fluency. I really didn’t know what that meant because I had no idea what level I was starting at. After four months or so, I was able to use Berlitz’s linguistic proficiency level scale to not only figure out where I started, but also to quantify my progress.

I started shakily in functional level 2. “At the functional level, you have a basic command of the language needed in a limited range of simple, routine, and familiar tasks and situations.” This is evident from the fact that I was able to negotiate the apartment, deal with TelCel, and do basic business interactions immediately upon arriving, but had a difficult time when going ‘off script.’

I am now hovering between intermediate levels three and four.  This is reflected in the fact that I can now following simple conversations and discuss more complex topics, but am still struggling with verb tenses, vocabulary deficiencies, and understanding idle conversation.

Yesterday, I got chicken for the first time in weeks, if not months, and for the last time this winter (there’s nothing wrong with it, I just got bored!). I got there late and the line up was long. All the chatter made me realise oral comprehension really needs to be my focus for next winter.

I have  good comprehension in one-to-one situations, but put me in a middle of a crowd and I only catch the odd word or phrase. I also rarely understand two Mexicans talking to each other. I know that watching simple Spanish programming with Spanish subtitles this summer will go a long way to helping me hit the ground running on this issue next year. It would unlock a lot of mysteries of Mexican social mores to be able to sit on a bench and eavesdrop on conversations!

But I do get some of what I hear and what I understood yesterday at the chicken stand was further evidence of the progress I’ve made. After the vendor took money from a little girl, I clearly understood, “Tell your mother she owes me five pesos” from a few rapidly fired words.

And guess what I was able to do? As soon as the vendor had a moment to breathe, I asked her if the price had changed for a half chicken and she said, “Yes, to 55 pesos.” I know for a fact that when I got to Mexico in November, I wouldn’t have been able to understand her comment to the little girl in any way that would relate to me, much less be able to formulate a related question and be able to understand the response!

I helped some friends move today and they hired two Mexican movers. I warned the guys that I understand Spanish in case they wanted to say anything negative about my friends or the move or whatever, all of which I didn’t want to hear. They said a few things to me in Spanish as we did 50 billion trips down a very, very, very, very long flight of stairs (I got my exercise today!), but mostly stuck to quite good English for my friends’ benefit.

Later, at the new house, the two movers and I flopped down for a break while my friends settled things with their landlord. The guys started chatting with me in Spanish and the conversation was really quite in depth, almost to the level of what I would share with my riding guide. Once again, their English, like my landlady’s, is excellent, much better than my Spanish, and they chose to speak to me in Spanish. That tells me I’m not bumbling along with the language as badly as I think I am!

(They find the dogs and roosters as annoying as I do, by the way. I’m glad to know that!)

Finally, there’s another thing I’ve been able to do this winter, simple translations, like I did from my riding guide to my riding buddies. I’m also doing simple Spanish transcription when I have extra time. I’m not getting paid for this, but it’s experience for which I’m getting good feedback. So who knows, I might be able to add Spanish proficiency to my resume in a year or two!

Enchilaprovisation

I think it’s on record that I’m one of those annoying cooks so comfortable in the kitchen that she doesn’t need recipes or special equipment to make a satisfying meal from rather disparate ingredients. I’ve been cooking for so long that I don’t even remember learning to cook.

I’m trying to use up the odd bits and pieces that friends left me before departing for northern climes. One of the things was a small tin of green enchilada sauce. I needed a quick dinner tonight, have had green enchiladas on the brain for a while, and had the follow bits to use up in addition to the sauce:

-chicken, rice, and tortillas from lunch;

-two tortillas in the freezer that were about to go off;

-a small hunk of Chihuahua cheese;

-a spoonful of crema.

Even if I trusted my oven, I don’t have any ovenware here, so I made dinner in my cast iron skillet, layering tortillas and a chicken and rice mixture, then drenching the whole thing in green sauce, reserving a little. I reduced the heat, popped a lid on the pan, and let the whole thing simmer until the sauce reduced and the bottom tortilla went from soggy to crispy.

Then, I flipped the whole thing over, cut the heat, added more sauce, and put shredded cheese over top, replacing the lid to melt the cheese with the residual heat from the pan.

I plated half of the dish and served it with half of the crema.

Dang this was good! The green sauce is quite spicy, but very flavourful, and the cream and cheese cut through the heat. It will be even better tomorrow once all the flavours have melded together.

It’s really not pretty to look at, but here tis:

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I’ve been really curious about this sauce, but wasn’t willing to spend the few pesos to try it because I’m stupid that way (and was worried that it would be too spicy). But now I know I will be adding it to my pantry next winter. I may even bring a tin or two of it home!

Next, I have to try the red sauce by the same brand, of which I also have a tin.

I’d like to add to the mothers out there that I had a small head of broccoli as an appetizer. 😉

Burger, Fries, and a Beer

Well, what do you know, I’ve been passing a gem of a restaurant most of the winter on the way to ‘downtown’ Isla and I never knew it! Most of the way to the City Deli, there is a restaurant that seems to be located in an old garage because it has a huge roll down door. It always has chicken going on the BBQ, the signs are handwritten on fluorescent-coloured stock, and the inside seems spotless and newly renovated.

I had a hankering for a burger at noon one day and knowing that this is the only place besides the beachfront restaurants that are open most days at midday, I decided it was time to check it out. I’m glad I waited that long because, DANG. I’ve only had their hamburgers and really want to go back for their Mexican food!

Like all hamburgers I’ve had on Isla, it’s not a hearty beef burger. But unlike the other burgers, it actually tastes meaty. I suspect the patty is pork since there’s fat in it, but I suppose it could be chicken. The burger comes with a really good bun (I have to say Mexicans know how to do burger buns) that is grilled and has just enough charring to give it flavour without tasting burnt. It comes topped with cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion, ketchup, mayo, and jalapeños. I ordered without mayo and they told me they subbed crema. I have no idea why, but I find that hilarious. I add mustard and sweet relish at home. It’s a super messy and very flavourful sandwich unto its own right, not a sad excuse for a hamburger.

But it’s the fries that make this place stand out. They are made from fresh potatoes, the only place I’ve seen that done since I got to Mexico, and have the skin on. They were really good the first time and that’s why I went back there tonight for dinner instead of going to Miguel’s for a shrimp burrito. But guess what? Tonight they were ‘overcooked’ by the standards of anyone born outside of Quebec who has no idea what a French fry can actually taste like (delicious beyond all imagining) and tasted like my childhood. That’s the best way I can put it.

Hamburger and fries: 40 pesos.

Beer pairing: Tecate

Route North

So many people are traveling in the next month that I have a feeling paths could cross if itineraries were coordinated. This is what I’m looking at:

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The first thing to address is that I am adding a full 400KM to my trip by going through Nogales rather than doing a straight shot to Ciudad Juarez. I’ve asked both RVers and a couple of neighbours who know my familiarity with the language and the consensus is that going on through Ciudad Juarez is too dangerous for anyone to do, much less for me as a solo female traveler. Locals fully agree with the current travel warnings for the northern part of the country. The bulk of the additional mileage will be within the US in states with very low fuel costs, even taking into account the terrible exchange rate right now. So all of that added together means that I am taking the same route north within Mexico as I took south.

Another point to make is that I found the two weeks on the road in the fall surprisingly long and I’m planning to do a full four weeks this time because I do not want to get home till the end of May because of weather and things I want to see in Wyoming and SD. So I have budgeted to spend up to three weeks total in motels with weekly rates in areas where I can do day trips. So I’m open to suggestions on what three cities I could pick for that.

Also, I have my Interagency Pass and am going to route myself through as many attractions covered by it as I can!

Finally, I know this is a mountain route and that I’ll need to monitor the weather closely. My alternative plan is go way east to Kansas to visit my friend L and then take the very familiar route home from there. But I really want to add NM and Wyoming to my visited maps list, so I’m hoping my route will work out.

So here’s my rough itinerary at this point:

April 25th: travel to San Carlos. It’s a long haul and I have decided to take the toll road the whole way. RVs can do the trip in about ten hours, so I’m thinking I’ll be able to do it in eight.

April 26th: travel to Nogales/border crossing. Overnight in or near Nogales at a motel.

April 27th: travel to Las Cruces, New Mexico, or the environs, and spend a full week in southern NM, putting me to May 3rd.

First week of May: more NM travel, heading north to Albuquerque and Santa Fe.

Second week of May (to the 14th: traveling through Colorado (I welcome all suggestions for getting around Denver!)

Third week of May (to the 21st): traveling through Wyoming and visiting Devil’s Tower.

Memorial Day Week: South Dakota Black Hills, including visiting with reader Vicki and Mount Rushmore.

May 25thish: begin the final push north. Deadwood is on the way and I’ll spend a split day there (afternoon and the next morning).

May 26thish: travel to Scobey, MT, and spend the night ahead of the border crossing. Resist the urge to just push through and get home so that…

May 27thish: arrive home late morning, with plenty of time to open up the rig, assess damage (if any), air the place out, start the fridge, set up internet, and, hopefully, have happy hour with C&C!

Yes, I am looking forward to this trip and getting home. No, I am not sad about leaving Isla. I have had an amazing winter and I’ll have an amazing summer at home and I’ll have another amazing winter here next year. I remember how reluctant I was to get to SK in 2013, and look how that turned out. I have so many plans for the summer and we’ll see how many I can squeeze into the few short months I’ll be there. Because if the summer is anything like the winter has been, next thing I’ll know, it’ll be late October and I’ll be wondering where the time went!

Recovery

I always crash after a huge transcription marathon as it is both physically and mentally exhausting. I was blessed with a quiet night and morning and slept nine hours straight through, which was amazing! I didn’t do much this morning, just caught up on emails to friends and puttered around the house.

After I did the minimum amount of work I wanted to get done today, I headed out. First stop was my landlord’s. The tailgate on my truck is busted again and with the border crossing coming up, I knew I had to deal with it! My landlord is the local handyman and has a ton of tools. I explained the problem to him (he teased me when I called my truck a ‘camion’, making it clear that’s only used for BIG trucks) and promised to come by tomorrow to have a look. Just about every truck on Isla is a Ranger, so I bet a suitable part will be easy to come by.

Then, I went to L&N’s to drop off something, then I headed to the beach, where I saw something promptly made me turn around and scurry home for some money: raspado vendors! The only food vendors on the beach earlier this week were for savoury snacks. I felt bad that I didn’t have any change smaller than $100 when my vendor had to ask a few people for some, but hey, she made a sale! I went with guava again. So yummy! The quartered fruit looks a lot like tomatoes.

It’s quite overcast again today and very, very, very humid. I’ll be leaving for my dry and sunny (well, hopefully) home in the nick of time. I’m not keen to experience tropical coastal summer weather!