Critters

Today was hot and sunny enough for me to turn my beach walk into an excuse to play in the surf.

There were paddle boarders having what looked like lots of fun. I’d like to try that. And surfing.

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I love walking in the super shallow water, especially when I stumble into a dip that soaks me to my hips!

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The skies were alive with birds of prey… and airplanes.

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I always forget to not wear a long skirt when I’m going to play in the surf. This type dries really well, but wraps around my legs while it’s wet and rather hobbles me.

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This stingray did not fare as well as the last one I saw.

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I saw several of these dark blue jelly fish, too.

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Well, It Finally Happened

Since Monday evening, I have been… unwell. Unwell of the sort that is associated with Mexico. You know, involving digestion, commonly known as la turista or Montezuma’s Revenge. My digestion is always terrible, but this was exceptional and obviously food related.

It took three days to identify the culprit.

Was it something from a restaurant or a food cart? Nope.

Chicken from the butcher shop? Nope.

Vegetables or fruit? Nope.

Oh, I’ve got it! Bad water! Nope…

As it turns out, the culprit was a bad jar of almond butter from Trader Joe’s purchased in the United States! While this specific batch was not mentioned in the recent recall, I guess it should have been. I’ve contacted Trader Joe’s to let them know.

I’m fine, just feeling a little weak, hence my exhaustion after climbing El Faro yesterday. I’m sticking to bland foods (lots of tortillas, rice, and plain pasta) and drinking gallons of Electrolit, a rehydration solution that is very easy to find and which I know I need because I’m not finding it sweet in the least (my favourite flavour is pineapple).

I have to appreciate the humour and irony that I came to Mexico and got a mild food poisoning that I could have had in Canada or the U.S!

The moral of the story is, leave scary mass produced food back home and come enjoy the fresh and unprocessed local delicacies Mexico has to offer!

El Faro de Mazatlán (the Lighthouse)

Well, I got my exercise in today. Here’s a rough overview of the bit of walking I did, which does not highlight the fact that the trip included climbing 150m (492 feet), including 339 steps.

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Dale and I had wanted to climb El Faro (the lighthouse) since we first heard about it. She did it with a group of friends recently and was keen to show me how to get there. We waited this long to make sure we were in decent enough shape as it’s quite a hike up, never mind actually walking to the start of the trek and then back again. I’ve been walking the beach daily for weeks and have start running again, just two or three kilometres three times a week. So that in combination with how well I did hiking in Utah, I knew the Faro wasn’t going to be that much of a challenge.

I met Dale on the beach at 8:00 this morning and we walked to the beach panga. I only paid one way since I had errands to run downtown that would bring me closer to the village panga for the trip home.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Goat Island and the Lighthouse.

Doesn't the lighthouse look imposing?

Doesn’t the lighthouse look imposing?

From the Maz side, it was a pretty quick walk by the docks to get to the start of the lighthouse trail. The streets were very busy and there weren’t really any sidewalks, so we had to watch where we were going. I found the start of the bus route that terminates in the Golden Zone.

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Ah, this is where the Titanik boat I saw the other week docks. What a name for a boat!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You'd work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

Restaurant atop Paseo del Centenario. You’d work up quite an appetite climbing those steps!

The lighthouse trail starts of gently with an ascent along a rutty path. It then becomes challenging when you reach the first of the 339 steps. This is the only way to get to the Faro, on foot. It’s an incredible amount of work to get there if the point isn’t to get exercise. On the way down, we passed painters going up and they looked in pain, one carrying a huge bucket of paint, another the ladder, another the miscellaneous equipment!

Access to the Faro. Don't let it fool you, pedestrians only!

Access to the Faro. Don’t let the entrance fool you, pedestrians only!

The path gets rough very fast.

The path gets rough very fast.

I was in fine shape for the climb, but stairs are worse than slopes and my knee was not happy, creaking and shifting and swelling the more I progressed. I made sure to only step up with the left knee.

We paused periodically to take in the amazing view and take pictures, so we got to the top in about 20 minutes. There, you can compare your time to statistics to see if you are an elite, expert, sportive, excursionist, or recreational user of the trail. Even if we had done it without pauses, I’m pretty sure we could not have done better than the excursionist rating (11 to 20 mins)! The elites are the ones who run the trail.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Starting to climb, but still fairly level with the higher parts of Maz.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I'm not sure as it's attached to the university.

Dale thinks this is a sewage plant, but I’m not sure as it’s attached to the university.

Looking out to Isla.

Looking out to Isla.

Goat Island.

Goat Island.

Funny cactus.

Funny cactus.

View of the docks.

View of the docks.

Starting the stairs.

Starting the stairs.

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

Goat Island again, starting to look tiny!

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

This one shows how much manoeuvring the cruise ships have to do to enter the port of Maz.

150 steps done!

150 steps done!

Lots more steps to go...

Lots more steps to go…

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. :)

Lots of garbage cans along the way. I liked the Comic font. 🙂

We made it!

We made it!

The view from the top of the world’s tallest natural lighthouse was amazing! I could see all of Maz and beyond laid out below me. It was a fantastic way to really get a lay of the land. Dale and I couldn’t stop pointing out landmarks, from the hotels on Isla to the cathedral to the resorts in the Golden Zone. She was amused that the first thing I spotted was the Pacifico Brewery. 🙂

Looks like the Isla police station!

Looks like the Isla police station!

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

Stats about the climb and a way to evaluate your fitness level.

I was there!

I was there!

Really, I was there! :)

Really, I was there! 🙂

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

Goat Island looked so insignificant from up there!

All of Maz laid out below us.

All of Maz laid out below us.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

The cathedral is right smack in the centre of this one.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third to the left.

You can really see the Pacific Brewery in this one; just look in the upper third right in the middle.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Looking towards the Golden Zone.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Modern electrical lighthouse with Fresnel lenses.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I was dressed for that.

Some people use these shortcuts that requiring clambering. Looked like fun, but I wasn’t dressed for that.

We eventually headed down and walked to Paseo del Centenario, which took us to Olas Altas, because Dale had finally found the Looney Bean coffee house and wanted to show it to me since I’m almost out of coffee. I can now say I’ve walked just about the entire Malecón!

First time I've seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

First time I’ve seen anyone lock up a bike, much less of the motor variety, here.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

Heading towards Olas Altas.

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

I love sidewalks in Mexico. Notice the pole right in the middle of it?

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Looking back at the lighthouse.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Clean bathrooms for 5 pesos.

Castle on a hill.

Castle on a hill.

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Can you imagine having a front door and garage right onto a busy road with blind curves?!

Crashing waves.

Crashing waves.

I liked the look of this building.

I liked the look of this building.

Sweet viewing platform.

Sweet viewing platform.

More waves.

More waves.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous tile work.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Gorgeous brickwork.

Their address plaque says 'No number.'

Their address plaque says ‘No number.’

Icebox Hill.

Icebox Hill.

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

That is a PERSON floating in the water. He was very much alive and did not appear to be in distress, just happily bobbing along in the water. HUH?!

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

The first bronze statue on this end of the Malecón.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

Official start of the Malecón at this end.

I've now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

I’ve now seen and photographed all the statues along the Malecón.

When we got to the Looney Bean, much forehead smacking occurred. I’ve been by it dozens of time, but when it’s been closed! You can’t see the sign unless you are on the Malecón.

The Looney Bean at last!

The Looney Bean at last!

My hope was that the Looney Bean would have coffee beans as it is a much more convenient location than Rico’s. They do! They don’t have nearly the choice (only ‘house blend’ and Chiapas) and they are more expensive, but since I save the 20-peso round trip bus ride, it’s a better deal.

One pound of Chiapas, their strongest coffee, was 120 pesos. I bought a half pound and the cost was 70 pesos. So a pound is a better deal. It takes me about three weeks to get through half a pound, so I prefer to pay a bit more and have fresh coffee. I had them coarse grind it for me. The grinds smell divine, so I’m optimistic I will like it as much as I did the Veracruz!

Because we were so hot and sticky, neither one of us was in the mood for having a coffee there (!). I suggested we head to Panamá’s bakery because I honestly thought I was going to faint from low blood sugar (yes, I had breakfast before the climb. I’ll have more about that in a later post). There, I got one of their ham, cheese, and jalapeño sandwiches and a pineapple strudel thing for 24 pesos total, a cheap and yummy lunch!

After, Dale went to the HSBC bank. We then agreed to split up as she was ready to go home and wanted to take the beach panga while I wanted to go to Waldo’s and possibly Ley’s, which put me at the village panga.

I wasn’t 100% sure where Waldo’s was from the HSBC, but I knew the general direction and got there without any detours whatsoever. I’ve definitely got the lay of the land! Waldo’s had what I wanted, inexpensive laundry detergent, so I was good to go. I was not tempted to buy any groceries (future post again), so I began the long schlep down (and up and down and up and down) Leandro Valle to Emilio Barragán to the panga to Isla to home. I was exhausted when I got home, much more so than I would have normally been after such an excurison (future post again).

Dale is leaving Isla next week and moving to the Golden Zone. I will miss my friend. I know I will still go out and do things and it’s not like we won’t meet up again, but it’s not the same. For one thing, going out in the evenings will be more expensive since I’ll have to pay for the entire pulmonía rides. But her new RV park is right on the bus line, so I know I can go visit cheaply. And, best of all, she’s thinking of going to Montana this summer and so is seriously considering a stay at RV Park Chez Rae!

I’m so glad we had a chance to do the Faro together. I don’t think it’ll be my only time making that climb!

Culinary Differences

I use a lot of soy sauce and quickly went through the bottle I brought here (because I had an opened one left when I was packing). Thankfully, Kikkoman soy sauce is easy to find in Mexico.

In fact, it seems that Mexicans are as particular about soy sauce as I am. I overheard a couple arguing at Ley a couple of trips there ago. Another brand was on sale and much cheaper, so that’s what the husband wanted to buy. The wife insisted on Kikkoman! They could have been filming a commercial. They were cute. The wife won!

Mexican Kikkoman sauce soy tastes exactly like the Canadian and U.S. versions. But there is one notable difference that makes me wish I still had my Canadian bottle: the recipe on the back.

The label looks very similar to the one I’m used to, only it’s in Spanish instead of French and English. I really wish I’d gotten a comparison. The red strip at the top has text that says, “for all uses.”

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Now, here’s the recipe, for beef fajitas. My first thought was, oh, Mexi-Asian fusion!

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But look at the ingredients:

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Beef, soy sauce, lemon or lime juice, onion, garlic, chiles, tortillas.

Soy sauce excepted, those are all ubiquitous Mexican ingredients. I can’t remember what the Canadian recipe was exactly, but it was definitely for an ‘Asian-inspired’ dish with ingredients many folks would have to go out and buy especially for the recipe.

Soy sauce is a savoury salty sauce, well suited to a variety of dishes, not just ‘Asian-inspired’ ones, something I know well, and yet I find myself humbled that I haven’t thought about adding it to the ‘Mexicany’ meals I make.

Tonight’s dinner was a chicken, rice, and veggie stir fry flavoured with soy sauce. I think I’ll add lime juice and jalapeños to the leftovers!

Changing Landscapes

I’m trying to make it a habit to go for an hour-long walk on the beach in the afternoon. I go sometime between two and four and have found that the beach is always changing. Sometimes, it is very smooth and hard packed with barely any wave action. Once, it had a lot of shoals and deep tidal pools. Today, it was one tiny dune after another, just enough slope to add a bit more effort.

I’ve been listening to podcasts on my iPhone while I walk. I don’t mind being alone with my thoughts, but like when I was delivering fliers in Lethbridge, having something to listen to gives me added motivation. It also helps me time my walks to make sure I’m getting at least an hour. Right now, I’m listening to BBC Radio’s ‘Cabin Pressure‘ series. I hope the waves are drowning out the sound of my laughter. The series is hilarious!

An episode is 28 minutes, so I when I get to the end of one, I turn around. I start them when I get to a more isolated part of the beach, so I’m actually getting in a walk that is longer than an hour, having about another ten minutes or so each way to get home from where I stop and start the podcasts.

While I usually resist the urge to collect seashells, I couldn’t help myself yesterday and brought home proof that Mexico has unicorns:

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