Linguistic Breakthrough

Today marks day five (non-consecutive) of construction on the property. Work is suffering and I am getting fed up. However, I did get a hole though my office wall today for my booster cable, meaning I can shut the window and block out some noise, so I’m not as cranky as I was a few hours ago. 🙂

The man dealing with all the work just keeps speaking to me in rapid fire Spanish. One thing that has changed since I got here about six weeks ago is that I no longer go into “OMG, Spanish! Red alert! Tell them to slow down!” mode when this happens, which keeps me from hearing anything.

Instead, I now let the words wash over me and, guess what? I usually get the gist of what’s being said to me! If I really have no clue by the time they are done, then I ask for clarification. But nine times out of ten, I don’t need to get anywhere near the whole thing to understand what is being said.

For instance, this afternoon he knocked on the door, apologized for disturbing me, and then spoke for about a minute about something having to do with the wiring for the washing machine, its outlet (for which the word is caja, so no wonder the internet guy thought my Spanish is better than it is!), outside, and a wall in my office

The washing machine had been plugged into an extension cord that went through my office window and plugged into an outlet in here. I would say that I didn’t get 80% of what he said to me, but what  I understood was that he wanted to install an exterior outlet for the washing machine and needed to come into the office to make a hole and when he was done, I wouldn’t have the extension cord coming into the office anymore.

I brought him and his helper into the office, pointed to the extension cord, and told him that the cord was going outside to a new box, correct? Exactly.

He asked me to shut down my equipment while he got his drill ready. I ran for some towels to cover my desk!

It took about a half hour for them to do everything they needed to do, including drilling the hole for my booster cable and cleaning up all the dust.

When he was done, I got another big spiel from which I gathered that he was done in the office, still had five minutes of work to do outside and I’d have power back in about 10 minutes. Of that spiel, I’d say that I caught maybe 10% of the words, but that’s all I needed.

This feels like a linguistic breakthrough to me even though I’ve been doing the same thing when reading for years.  I really do need to find a conversation teacher to help me increase my vocabulary and correct my errors, but the leaps that I have made in oral comprehension in mere weeks is astonishing. My Spanish teachers were right. I didn’t need more private lessons. I needed to get immersed.

Monday Morning Shopping in Mazatlán

I had an early morning for some reason, awake just past 5:00 (might have to do with the fact that this was my third uninterrupted night of sleep in a row, yay!). I read for an hour then got up to do some chores, including taking the trash out. My Mexican life is no more glamourous than my Canadian one! 🙂

Dale came by at 8:00 to pick me up so we could go run some errands in Mazatlán. We arrived as things were opening up, so there weren’t too many crowds and it was still cool out. Good call!

We’re both much more orientated now, so the only question as we left the panga was which road we were going to take to the Mercado, Zaragoza or Leandro Valle. The latter is a bit shorter but has big hills, so we opted for it to get some extra exercise!

Imagine having to go up these stairs to your house every day?!

Imagine having to go up these stairs to your house every day?!

Or up this spiral staircase?!

Or up this spiral staircase?!

I wanted to hit Waldo’s and the Mercado before going to Ley. Dale wanted a bank. I led her straight to the one Grant and I were directed to a couple of weeks ago. I never even noticed that it’s right across from the cathedral!

Dale didn’t like the bank because there were no English instructions in the ATM, but is glad to know there’s one closer than the HSBC she favours if she gets stuck. She had her translator, so there were no issues with her withdrawal. 🙂

When she was done, she mentioned that she’d like to find a bakery. Lo and behold, there was one right in front of us! She sheepishly said that she wanted a pastry right then. Breakfast was already well behind me, so I was on board with her plan!

We were both awed by the rows and rows and rows of pastries, each more beautiful than the next. She went for an Oreo crumb topped doughnut and I selected a butter croissant with a drizzle of icing sugar and some sliced almonds on top. 22.50 pesos for both. Dale said her doughnut was great and my croissant was perfect for me, just enough sweet for a treat, but not enough to be sickening.

Waldo’s was just a block up and across the street, so we finished up our goodies, then headed into the store. I wanted a plastic basket for my kitchen counter into which I could store spices and found a nice one that was quite cheap, as well as a few other things for the apartment. I picked up some Stanley-brand Velcro ties for my computer cables that are something like 10CAD for 8 in Canada and only 14 pesos (1CAD) in Mexico!!!

Next was the Mercado, across the street, where I knew I was going to spend mucho dinero. I wanted to come out with two Mexican sundresses and a hat. I’d been to the Mercado twice before and knew exactly which vendor had the dresses I wanted, but I had no idea on prices.

The vendor is immediately on the right when you come in through the entrance across from Waldo’s. I made like I wasn’t sure about checking out the wares so I didn’t look like I was already determined to buy.

I picked up the dress that I wanted, a peasant style, and held it up to show Dale, whose eyes widened. She said “That’ll look good on  you!” The clerk brought out a screen so I could change and showed me where the mirror is.

My first thought before I even saw the dress on me was, “It fits!” I just grabbed a dress of a rack and it was exactly my size! Unbelievable! I checked it out in the mirror and gasped. I felt like a princess. The dress was so pretty and the exact shape that best fits my figure. When I was larger, styles like these felt like a costume, I just couldn’t get away with ‘girly’ clothes, but now I can.

I asked how much in Spanish and the lady told me 500 pesos. Oof. I was expecting something like that, but it was still a lot of money and I wanted two!

I asked how much for two and was told 480 pesos each. What kind of deal is that?!

I told Dale that I was going to think about it and the clerk said that she could go as low as 430 pesos for each dress if I bought two or 450 pesos for just one.

The price was getting better and I thought I might be able to get it lower, so I started discussing colour. I’d tried on a bright blue dress that I wanted (Dale said it brings out the colour in my eyes) and I pretended to waffle back and forth between the blue and the purple. “400 pesos for the purple one,” I finally said. The clerk looked aghast and said, “No! 450 pesos for one dress. You can have both for 800 but one is 450 pesos.”

I’m sure that all the Mexican haggling experts reading this are going to laugh at my timidity, but I was pretty sure I wasn’t going any lower at that point, so I agreed.

800 pesos is a huge sum of money, but I know I will wear the dresses a lot, not just on special occasions. They are made of heavy cotton and will last a long time. And perhaps most important, I feel so good in them!

My blue dress (I'm wearing the purple one and do not have a photographer handy!).

My blue dress (I’m wearing the purple one and do not have a photographer handy!).

Next, I wanted a hat. I’d shopped for hats before and haven’t been able find anybody willing to sell me one for what I wanted to pay (70 to 80 pesos) so I set my budget to 120 pesos.

One lady lured us into her shop waving hats and bags. I pointed to the hat she was holding and said I want something with a smaller brim. The next sized brim she held up was was still too big. She then pulled out the exact style of hat that I wanted and hadn’t yet seen at any other vendor!

I call it the ball cap style, because it basically has no brim in the back, but it does cover the ears. A wide brim all around is good for the back of the neck, but I’m a little hunched back and I prefer no brim back there. The hat was pretty and feminine, with a bow at the back, almost like a bonnet, and would look good with my dresses!

Unfortunately, all her hats were brightly coloured, though, and I wanted something more neutral. I pointed to a hat the colour I wanted, a light beige, and said that I wanted that hat style in that colour. And she had one! Finally, the perfect hat!

She wanted 150 pesos. I said I’d think about it. She said that I would be her first sale of the day, so 120 pesos. I countered with 100 and she thought about it then agreed. I doubt I could have gone any lower because the cheapest hat I’ve priced so far was 950 pesos, not a centavo less!

My hat.

My hat.

I was feeling pretty broke by this point, but I still needed groceries! I bought a mango (haven’t had one of those in months!) and a jicama at the market and Dale got a few things, too.

We were both ready to head to the Ley after. Back up Leandro Valle we went a couple of blocks and then a couple of blocks over to the Ley. We really are getting to know our way around!

Ley had almost everything on my list except coffee! We could only find instant. Unbelievable! Dale and I are going to Soriana or Mega or even Walmart on my next payday because we both take our coffee seriously. I looked into coffee shops that sell their own and they’re all in the Golden Zone and a million miles away. I guess Mexico exports all its coffee and Mexicans aren’t coffee snobs… I just opened up a bag I bought in the States that should last me a couple of weeks, but my coffee situation is going to get dire fast!

I came out of Ley after spending about 330 pesos. The most expensive thing I bought was the cheese, about 110 pesos worth (which would be about 30CAD worth back home…). I also bought Kikkoman soy sauce. Last time I bought some in Canada, I paid something like $10 for two on sale. I paid 450 pesos for one bottle here. I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but I should stock up on soy sauce in Mexico before going home!

Our shopping done, Dale and I arranged all our bags to make them more comfortable to carry and decided that we could walk rather than take a pulmonía to the panga.

We were just at the corner of Leandro Valle and Emilio Barragán when a tope (speed bump) that was the exact colour as the pavement and my shoes attacked me! I went down pretty hard, but managed to catch myself enough that I didn’t get my full weight on my knees. I scraped my right shin pretty badly but didn’t even skin the palms of my hands. My shopping was fine. I’m no longer the gal who hit a palm tree with her truck her first night here, but now the girl who tripped on a tope!

I was just glad I fell on a street, not while getting into the panga! I had no trouble getting myself and my shopping into the boat gracefully, thank goodness!

By the time Dale and I got back to Isla, it wasn’t even 11:00 a.m.! We were surprised! It was getting HOT and we were ready to get home. I had work to do, but, surprise, the power and internet at home were out for a few hours because of work being done to the house. The internet cafés don’t have power outlets, so forget working from there. Thankfully, my deadlines aren’t too pressing and I can make up the work later.

Lunch was guacamole and chips, quick and easy. I bought a different kind of avocado today, much bigger than that Haas ones, with a smooth light green skin and more expensive than the Haas variety. It wasn’t great, more water than creamy. It was fine with lots of onions, salt, and lime juice (forgot the jalapeños!), but I’m glad I only got the one.

Large smooth skinned avocado.

Large smooth skinned avocado.

The flesh and pit are lighter and the flesh is watery.

The flesh and pit are lighter and the flesh is watery.

Dinner With Friends

I got a last minute invitation to have dinner with Janet and Grant tonight, which was very much appreciated! They live at Stone Island Gardens, the hotel attached to Carmelita’s restaurant in a two-bedroom apartment. The space is lovely with a great view, but well out of my price range (which I feel comfortable saying because the prices are right on the website).

It’s quite a walk to the top floor! I’d get my exercise living there. We had dinner on one of their balconies looking over the water at all the lights. Just gorgeous! I can’t believe they are that far up and have no railings on the balconies, though! Oh, Mexico with its lack of building codes… 😀 I think this has been my biggest culture shock!

Janet and Grant are vegan, which means they eat absolutely no animal products. Dinner was hearty, healthy, and yummy, with three dishes, one of potatoes, one of quinoa, and one of rice featuring tons of veggies. I haven’t had quinoa in a while, so that was a nice treat.

I’m always amused when I get invited to dinner by vegetarians and vegans who then apologize for not having meat. 1) You’re vegan or vegetarian, I’m not expecting meat; 2) I was a vegetarian for 15 years; 3) I still make all my old favourite vegetarian recipes and don’t eat meat every day. 😀

I was introduced to jicama, a starchy turnip-like veggie with a raw potatoey flavour that you can just cut up and eat raw, perhaps with a little lime juice and chili powder. It’s a little sweet and very moist, a nice pick me up in a warm climate. I will look for it on the veggie truck next time it passes by!

We gabbed a bit after eating, then Grant, being the gentleman that he is, walked all the way down those steps to walk me home… after walking to the golf course and back today, about 24KM/15miles!!!

Goat Island (Isla de Chivas), Mazatlán

Goat Island (Isla de Chivas) is now attached to Stone Island (Isla de la Piedra), but used to be separate. Dale and I decided to hike out there today to accomplish four goals: 1) explore, 2) find Benji’s restaurant, 3) see the wild goats, 4) climb Goat Mountain to see if we’re in good enough shape to hike up to the Mazatlán lighthouse (hell yeah!).

We met on the beach and walked all the way out the absolute southernmost part you can walk on Isla, which involved a little clambering. We got a good view of the harbour and marveled that giant cruise ships can get through the narrow channel!

I kept teasing Dale that she had promised me goats and I wasn’t seeing any goats, so she took me a bit around the base of Goat Mountain until she spotted one. They’re big! Once we saw one, we saw a lot!

We then started up the path to the top of the mountain, avoiding as much goat poop as we could. There’s a pretty good path partway up, but then you have to scramble up rocks. It wasn’t particularly challenging and we weren’t even winded by the time we got to the top.

We headed home around 9:45 (yes, we climbed a mountain by 9:30 today!) and I asked a lady cleaning her yard if she knew the location of Benji’s restaurant. She explained to me how to find it. Benji’s is known for its pizza, so I’m curious about going there one day to see if the pizza is any good.

As we headed back to the beach, I asked Dale if she was interested in going for brunch at Carmelita’s, the only restaurant I know has other stuff besides eggs for breakfast. Oh, yeah!

When we got there, I really splurged and ordered a giant glass of fresh squeezed OJ (35 pesos, eep!), but I was really craving some good sugar after all that exercise. Dale had a veggie omelette that really made me wish I could do eggs. It came with refried beans and toast or tortillas. We both do tortillas at home, so toast is a treat!

I actually ordered pancakes! I added a side of ham (65 pesos, not bad!). The pancakes were just the right amount for me, two medium sized ones, and they came with a little plate that had butter, jam, and syrup on it. I like a schmear of strawberry jam on pancakes, so this was perfect for me and I really enjoyed them! The ham was pretty good, too, slice thin but seared to really bring out the flavour. I also finished Dale’s toast, loading it up with pico de gallo!

Dale lets me handle the money when we eat out. The bill was 180 pesos, with my portion being 100 pesos. I had her pay with a 200 peso note and added an additional 20 pesos of my own, then gave her a 100 peso note back.

The exercise this morning was great! I have some work to do this afternoon and think I’ll be able to concentrate now that I got the ants out of my legs. 🙂

map

Our destination was the top of that mountain!

Our destination was the top of that mountain!

This guy was just chilling in the sand. We thought he was injured, but he didn't seem to be in pain and was moving around.

This guy was just chilling in the sand. We thought he was injured, but he didn’t seem to be in pain and was moving around.

I like the path up to this hut.

I like the path up to this hut.

Maz in the distance.

Maz in the distance.

Maz lighthouse.

Maz lighthouse.

Big boat, with a little tug boat beside and behind it.

Big boat, with a little tug boat beside and behind it.

Looking up at Goat Mountain.

Looking up at Goat Mountain.

Heading out into the causeway.

Heading out into the causeway.

Dale compared these cement things to jacks (as in the game pieces).

Dale compared these cement things to jacks (as in the game pieces).

As far out on the causeway as we could go.

As far out on the causeway as we could go.

Looking at Goat Mountain from the causeway.

Looking at Goat Mountain from the causeway.

This lush rocky greenery with a stone croft made me think of hiking in Scotland!

This lush rocky greenery with a stone croft made me think of hiking in Scotland!

This igloo-type thing caught my eye.

This igloo-type thing caught my eye.

Goat!

Goat!

There were lots of these trees with exposed roots.

There were lots of these trees with exposed roots.

I'd come across tons of stone crofts like these when I was hiking in the Scottish Highlands.

I’d come across tons of stone crofts like these when I was hiking in the Scottish Highlands.

Lots of iron in the soil here.

Lots of iron in the soil here.

Looking towards Isla. You can clearly see Stone Island Gardens, the hotel attached to Carmelita's.

Looking towards Isla. You can clearly see Stone Island Gardens, the hotel attached to Carmelita’s.

The first part up had a path.

The first part up had a path.

Dale is a good role model for how I want to age.

Dale is a good role model for how I want to age.

Looking down at the causeway and the lighthouse.

Looking down at the causeway and the lighthouse.

This view reminded me so much of Point Bonita near San Francisco.

This view reminded me so much of Point Bonita near San Francisco.

Roots just clinging to rock faces.

Roots just clinging to rock faces.

Climbing higher!

Climbing higher!

I could see lots of familiar Isla landmarks.

I could see lots of familiar Isla landmarks.

This is where the hike turned into clambering.

This is where the hike turned into clambering.

Looking down again to the causeway and the lighthouse.

Looking down again to the causeway and the lighthouse.

Here we are at the top of Goat Mountain!

Here we are at the top of Goat Mountain!

What a view!

What a view!

If it wasn't for that tree, I could have mistaken that view for Scotland.

If it wasn’t for that tree, I could have mistaken that view for Scotland.

See the goats in the background?

See the goats in the background?

After all the sand on Isla, this red dirt was a welcome change.

After all the sand on Isla, this red dirt was a welcome change.

Love the colour of this house.

Love the colour of this house.

Sitting at Carmelita's, remembering that I earned my brunch!

Sitting at Carmelita’s, remembering that I earned my brunch!

That's a BIG glass of juice and I'd already had quite a bit!

That’s a BIG glass of juice and I’d already had quite a bit!

The pelicans were out in full force today.

The pelicans were out in full force today.

Hot Dogs

Yes, I know hot dogs are terrible, bla bla bla. I don’t care. Lots of things are terrible. A hot dog every once in a while isn’t going to kill me.

When I lived in the City of Kawartha Lakes at the turn of the century, one of my biggest treats on my occasional visits to nearby Toronto was getting a hot dog from a street vendor. When I was in Quebec in 2012, I fell back in love with a steamé all dressed, just about the epitome of the perfect hot dog in my book — cheap, savoury, and with a lovely mushy bun.

Tonight, I decided to walk into the village past 6:30 to get supper from a cart. I didn’t have to go far. There was a hot dog vendor set up next to where the chicken lady has her barbecue.

I decided to try one and was offered condiments and agreed to tomato, onion, and mustard. A spot of relish instead of tomato would have made this  the best hot dog I have ever had!!! The problem with a Quebec steamé is that the whole thing is steamed. I like the steamed bun. I’m not so crazy about the steamed dog. I prefer hot dogs seared in a little fat to give them extra flavour. This hot dog had a steamed bun and a seared wiener!

The cost was 13 pesos for a hot dog! Holy smokes! That brings me back to my dad reminiscing about the days he could buy a hot dog for a quarter and get change!

I’m going to get two next week. 🙂