Corpus Christi Detour and Harlingen

From Port Aransas, I drove about 45 minutes to the small city of Corpus Christi. I just wanted to have a look at it, so I didn’t plan to do much, especially since I still had a two-hour drive to make to get to my hotel in Harlingen.

I stopped in at the vistors’ centre and was told that the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and History across the street could fill a few hours and give me a sense for the city. Perfect!

Admission to the museum is $12.50, unless you happen to be a lucky blogger and get there on FREE admission day! What a gift!

This museum MUST be experienced. It’s a treasure trove of varied exhibits, each beautiful planned and executed. From gem stones to the discovery of the new world passing by terrariums filled with turtles, alligators, and giant spiders, this museum is definitely worth a visit! I had a wonderful afternoon there.

Coming into the visitor’s centre, I noticed a class B rig in the parking lot that I had also seen parked next to me a few days before. It had Ontario plates. When I saw it at home, I thought that it had to be Marianne and Randy Edwards, but told myself that would be too much of a coincidence. When they saw my truck at the visitors’ centre, they put two and two together and waited for me to return to see if I was me that truck belonged to. We had a lovely chat and Randy gave me instructions for getting to the waterfront.

I took his advice and wound up at the Corpus Christi Marina. It was 4PM by this point, I was beat, and I had a long drive ahead of me, so I was done. I headed out towards Harlingen and stopped at the Kingsville Walmart where I ran into the Edwards again! There I FINALLY found a good pair of sandals (I love the Earth Spirit brand; very good quality, leather, inexpensive, only available at Walmart) so I have comfortable shoes this morning.

The drive to Harlingen was exciting. I had the radio on and wasn’t really paying attention to much besides the road so I failed to notice not only that my gas gauge needle was racing towards empty but also the ‘no fuel for 60 miles’ sign!!! When my gas gauge light came on, I was shocked to discover that the next gas station was 80KM ahead of me, so the only option was to turn back the way I came to go back to the last gas station I had passed. It was a very long 20KM, but I wasn’t completely empty when I got there. I really need an audio signal at the quarter tank mark!!!

That 40KM detour meant that I didn’t get into Harlingen until 7:30. I don’t like driving in the dark, but it’s easier in the truck, probably because I am higher up than car headlights and I don’t get blinded as much (even in pickup truck land). The hotel was right off of I-77 and very easy to find. It’s adequate for a one-star; shabby but clean with a lumpy bed.

There is a Chili’s restaurant literally next door. Chili’s is a huge treat for me. I’ve only been there four times before (I’m averaging once a year) and I only go if I stumble onto one (so I never ate at the one in Chesapeake). So I decided that fate was telling me I needed a good dinner! I always get their margarita grilled chicken, which comes on a bed of rice, black beans, and tortilla strips. Incredibly delicious. I ordered a beer, the server said okay, then he came back and said, “Sweetie, you are old enough to drink, aren’t you?”

I still can’t get over the fact that people think I am in my late teens to mid-20s. I look at myself in the mirror and I just see the deepening lines and fading scars that remind me that time is marching on…

It was almost 9:00 when I got in from dinner. I had hoped to update the blog, but my internet connection kept cutting out and was slooooooooooow. It was so frustrating that I shut down and went to bed around 11.

Breakfast is included, but I didn’t even bother to check it out. Instead, I went across the street to Starbucks for a bagel and coffee. Except for a coffee on the NY Thruway coming south, I have not had Starbucks since early May of 2012!

I’m getting mixed signals about how easy it will be to fill a few hours in Nuevo Progreso, so I’m in no hurry this morning. I’ll be heading out in a few minutes and should be there for 10:00, 10:30, giving me a couple of hours to find the dentist and have lunch.

Nuevo Progreso will be the furthest south I have ever wandered!

Entering Corpus Christi.

Entering Corpus Christi.

Entering Corpus Christi.

Entering Corpus Christi.

Entering Corpus Christi.

Entering Corpus Christi.

'Whataburger Field' made me laugh. Whataburger is a chain of Texas hamburger restaurants.

‘Whataburger Field’ made me laugh. Whataburger is a chain of Texas hamburger restaurants.

The visitors' centre on Chaparral street.

The visitors’ centre on Chaparral street.

Behind the museum of science and history there is this wonderful fountain garden.

Behind the museum of science and history there is this wonderful fountain garden.

Can any of my readers identify this tree?

Can any of my readers identify this tree?

It's like a cactus tree!

It’s like a cactus tree!

With pink flowers.

With pink flowers.

More cacti in the xeriscape garden out front.

More cacti in the xeriscape garden out front.

Xeriscaping is landscaping for arid conditions.

Xeriscaping is landscaping for arid conditions.

Bridge.

Bridge.

Corpus Christ Museum of Science and History. It heavily features Chrisopher Columbus and Spanish explorers, hence the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria on the sign.

Corpus Christ Museum of Science and History. It heavily features Chrisopher Columbus and Spanish explorers, hence the Nina, Pinta, and Santa Maria on the sign.

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entrance to the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and history

entrance to the Corpus Christi Museum of Science and history

Wonderful exhibit about gems and stones.

Wonderful exhibit about gems and stones.

Another sampling of this exhibit.

Another sampling of this exhibit.

There were TONS more gems and stones to look at!

There were TONS more gems and stones to look at!

I enjoyed the exhibit about snakes.

I enjoyed the exhibit about snakes.

This is a hog nosed snake. You can actually find these in Ontario.

This is a hog nosed snake. You can actually find these in Ontario.

Loved this bench!

Loved this bench!

Harmless milk snake on the left, dangerous coral snake on the right.

Harmless milk snake on the left, dangerous coral snake on the right.

Red on black, friend of Jack.

Red on black, friend of Jack.

Red on yellow, kill a fellow.

Red on yellow, kill a fellow.

Carvings of many of earth's mammals.

Carvings of many of earth’s mammals.

Tips for being a collector.

Tips for being a collector.

Harsh words on the difference between being a collector and being a hoarder.

Harsh words on the difference between being a collector and being a hoarder.

Where is a turtle's spine?

Where is a turtle’s spine?

Inside the shell.

Inside the shell.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Beautiful detail on the shipwreck exhibit.

Plaque glorifying Columbus's 'discovery' of the Americas.

Plaque glorifying Columbus’s ‘discovery’ of the Americas.

The Aztecs had a civilization that compared to that in Europe.

The Aztecs had a civilization that compared to that in Europe.

market day

market day

typical Texas ranch house made of limestone

typical Texas ranch house made of limestone

You would have seen these houses in 1776, when Texas was still part of Mexico.

You would have seen these houses in 1776, when Texas was still part of Mexico.

Potatoes and sweet potatoes are not related, but they are new world crops.

Potatoes and sweet potatoes are not related, but they are new world crops.

The Spanish say maiz, the English say corn, the French say maïs, the French-Canadian say blé d'inde (Indian wheat)

The Spanish say maiz, the English say corn, the French say maïs, the French-Canadian say blé d’inde (Indian wheat)

New world crops fed Europe and led to a population explosion.

New world crops fed Europe and led to a population explosion.

There is evidence that syphilis is a new world disease that was brought back by Columbus and his men.

There is evidence that syphilis is a new world disease that was brought back by Columbus and his men.

What would our world be without corn and potatoes?

What would our world be without corn and potatoes?

The Texas cowboy's lament.

The Texas cowboy’s lament.

Exquisite dress.

Exquisite dress.

Exquisite dress.

Exquisite dress.

A gal would wear this if she was 'queen' of bucaneer days.

A gal would wear this if she was ‘queen’ of bucaneer days.

"We are all explorers seeking the meaning of the present in the past."

“We are all explorers seeking the meaning of the present in the past.”

Entrance to a Montserrat-style general store.

Entrance to a Montserrat-style general store.

The general store would also be a social centre.

The general store would also be a social centre.

You can get all the necessities, from beer to toilet paper and KD.

You can get all the necessities, from beer to toilet paper and KD.

There were no words to describe how exquisite this exhibit was. It was like entering a palace, with beautiful tiles on the ground and one more gorgeous detail after another.

There were no words to describe how exquisite this exhibit was. It was like entering a palace, with beautiful tiles on the ground and one more gorgeous detail after another.

The domed ceiling must have taken a lot of work!

The domed ceiling must have taken a lot of work!

I liked this exhibit that showed how a typical daily menu would have been prepared.

I liked this exhibit that showed how a typical daily menu would have been prepared.

Pterodactyl

Pterodactyl

Buffalo hunt.

Buffalo hunt.

There's a whole section devoted to the history of Corpus Christi.

There’s a whole section devoted to the history of Corpus Christi.

The Corpus Christi bayfront was conceived and developed after the devastating 1919 hurricane.

The Corpus Christi bayfront was conceived and developed after the devastating 1919 hurricane.

Marina

Marina

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Corpus Christi from the Marina

Corpus Christi from the Marina

Corpus Christi from the Marina

Corpus Christi from the Marina

Columbus-style ship.

Columbus-style ship.

It's gas-powered.

It’s gas-powered.

Corpus Christi from the Marina

Corpus Christi from the Marina

impressive structure

impressive structure

it's named the Nina

it’s named the Nina

Columbus-style ship.

Columbus-style ship.

Delicious dinner at Chili's.

Delicious dinner at Chili’s.

Checking Out Port Aransas

Thursday promised to be grey, not the best weather to go out gallivanting, but off I did go, leaving around 8AM. I got fuel and then drove straight to Aransas Pass to catch the free ferry to Port Aransas.

One of the goals of this trip was to see what it would be like in an RV and to scope out the boondocking spots. I’d already made the decision not to move Miranda there, but I wanted to know what I would be missing.

The ferry was very tight. I did see a ginormous fiver come off the ferry ahead of me, but I would not feel comfortable taking my rig on there as there is zero room for error.

Port Aransas is bigger than I thought it would be and full of colourful unique storefronts (see the gallery below). First stop was the Marine Science Institute, where there are a few free displays. They sometimes have free educational lectures and movies, too.

I met a wonderful lady traveling from Minnesota. We gabbed for ages and she was delighted that I’ve been through her state a few times and could easily point out her town on a map. We talked a little about my travels and she asked me if I’d ever been to Alaska, wondering how hard it is to get there. I explained that the Alaska Highway is super easy to drive and that there’s no need to over prepare to go north. She actually took some notes. I hope she gets up there some day!

Next, I came upon one of the many RV boondocking beaches in the area. You need to pay to boondock and you can only stay three nights out of every three weeks.

I drove out to another beach south of town. Both locations were lovely, but the ground was very soft and the tides more likely to come up very high. I really don’t feel like I’m making a mistake not detouring to Port Aransas to boondock, but I’m glad I checked it out.

I’d asked S for a lunch recommendation and she told me to try the pizza at The Gaff, so that’s where I went. Woah, what a place… It’s a shack (and that’s a kind way of putting it) with a pirate theme. It didn’t feel too clean and I’m not convinced the pizza maker washed her hands once between everything she was doing. That said, the experience was worth it and the pizza not bad! I was only able to eat a couple of slices and I took the rest with me. I knew it wouldn’t survive the trip to Harlingen, what with the truck sitting in the sun, but I was able to snack on another couple of slices and found that this is a pizza that’s best served lukewarm. I loved the sauce and cheese, the crust was so-so. The server had just started working there and had everything under control. We had a nice chat and she said that I should come on a Saturday night when they have beltsander races! I would never have tried this place had it not been recommended to me and I’m so glad I did!

It was coming on to 1:00 when I came out from lunch, so it was time to move on. Next stop, Corpus Christi.

Aim Low Insurance in Aransas Pass; the name struck me as funny.

Aim Low Insurance in Aransas Pass; the name struck me as funny.

Driving towards the Port Aransas ferry.

Driving towards the Port Aransas ferry.

The road to the ferry is lined with instructional signs for using the 'ferryboat.' My favourite was 'the ferryboat's capacity is whatever it can safely carry.'

The road to the ferry is lined with instructional signs for using the ‘ferryboat.’ My favourite was ‘the ferryboat’s capacity is whatever it can safely carry.’

Good thing there is a little boat on the instructions, or I would have serious doubts about my GPS!

Good thing there is a little boat on the instructions, or I would have serious doubts about my GPS!

Waiting in line at the ferry. I was signaled to go 'thataway' with two fingers waving, so I deduced (correctly) that I had to go into the outer lane.

Waiting in line at the ferry. I was signaled to go ‘thataway’ with two fingers waving, so I deduced (correctly) that I had to go into the outer lane.

VERY tight squeeze on the ferry.

VERY tight squeeze on the ferry.

Leaving Aransas Pass.

Leaving Aransas Pass.

Port Aransas

Port Aransas

Ferry heading for Aransas Pass

Ferry heading for Aransas Pass

Port Aransas

Port Aransas

Desserted Island Ice Cream

Desserted Island Ice Cream

Marine Science Institute.

Marine Science Institute.

Sculpture outside the Marine Science Institute.

Sculpture outside the Marine Science Institute.

I really enjoyed this display that showed the teeth of sharks that swim in these waters and offered humorous commentary on their diet.

I really enjoyed this display that showed the teeth of sharks that swim in these waters and offered humorous commentary on their diet.

There were a few aquariums with live fish.

There were a few aquariums with live fish.

Cute grumpy fish.

Cute grumpy fish.

Nearly invisible flat fish.

Nearly invisible flat fish.

Yummy red snapper.

Yummy red snapper.

You are so delicious smoked!

You are so delicious smoked!

More hiding fish.

More hiding fish.

"Come on, inner peace. I don't have all day!"

“Come on, inner peace. I don’t have all day!”

I had never heard of 'sea beans' before today. They are seeds that are carried to far away lands by sea currents.

I had never heard of ‘sea beans’ before today. They are seeds that are carried to far away lands by sea currents.

More about sea beans.

More about sea beans.

A variety of sea beans.

A variety of sea beans.

More sea beans.

More sea beans.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

One of the RV boondocking beaches.

View from one of the RV boondocking beaches.

View from one of the RV boondocking beaches.

I missed a turn on the GPS and came upon this. Best store entrance ever.

I missed a turn on the GPS and came upon this. Best store entrance ever.

Second best store entrance ever.

Second best store entrance ever.

Another boondocking beach.

Another boondocking beach.

Another boondocking beach.

Another boondocking beach.

Another boondocking beach.

Another boondocking beach.

Sea turtles are endangered.

Sea turtles are endangered.

Rules for boondocking here, including have a permit and stay only three days.

Rules for boondocking here, including have a permit and stay only three days.

The sand was a little soft in spots.

The sand was a little soft in spots.

The Gaff Pirate Bar

The Gaff Pirate Bar

I wouldn't have ventured in this place if it hadn't been recommended to me.

I wouldn’t have ventured in this place if it hadn’t been recommended to me.

Decent pizza with good conversation.

Decent pizza with good conversation.

Like Being At An RV Park

I am inexplicably exhausted and lethargic today. I think it’s because I’ve been getting up too early after not quite enough sleep. I always have that problem when I go to bed before midnight. I wake up super early and cannot fall back asleep. At least, I go out for exercise when I’m up that early, so the exhaustion isn’t for nothing.

Late morning, I headed into Port Lavaca for some produce. I had a disappointing lunch special at La Antigua. My special was a cheese enchilada (minus ‘beef gravy’), rice, beans, and a chicken flauta (which was a fried corn tortilla with yummy seasoned chicken in it). The enchilada was lukewarm and smothered in plasticky cheese sauce. I was really not impressed. They do serve their meals with a really nice salsa and chips so I was able to brighten up my lunch a little and give it some kick by drizzling the salsa all over everything. I’d go back there, but I’ll be sticking to their full priced menu next time as those items seem much fresher and have pico de gallo and guacamole.

I then got my groceries and headed straight home… to find this:

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Goliad and Presidio La Bahia

The only thing of note in Port Lavaca is a museum that is closed on Mondays. My own reason for going into town was to mail two packages that could have waited another day or two, so I almost stayed in.

Instead, I decided to take Pam’s advice and go on a drive to Goliad, one of the oldest towns in Texas. Its name is an anagram, minus the H, of Hidalgo, a Mexican priest and leader of the Mexican War of Independence.

Most of the town was shut down,  so I just followed my nose to the Empresario Restaurant, a sliver of a building with a warm decor. It had a simple menu with burgers and the like as well as a few Mexican dishes. I chose the cheese enchiladas and was a little surprised that they came smothered in BEEF. I didn’t send it back since the rice, beans, and corn tortilla enchiladas were fantastic. The little beef I took in was nicely seasoned. It’s not their fault that beef does nothing for me. Lunch was gigantic and I wound up leaving a bit of everything (well, a lot of the beef) and I still came out at $9 with the tip! Service was great, too. No regrets on my lunch choice! Amusingly enough, I checked my email on my phone while waiting for my food and there was an email from Pam recommending the fried chicken and iced tea at Empresario!

Then, I found an ATM of the drive-through variety (I got an odd look from a few people because I walked to it). That’s one thing about the US that boggles me; people just about never need to get out of their cars. You have drive through banks (not just ATMs, you can deal with a teller from your car!), drive through pharmacies, drive through restaurants (and not just fast food), and even drive through liquor stores.

THANK GOODNESS I took out cash because a few hours later my credit card was denied at a gas station. Not declined, denied. I haven’t been able to get through to them as the lines are busy, but I did my work around (called the main CIBC number instead of the Visa number) and got an automated message that they were having a problem with authorizations on their credit cards. I thought I might have a security hold, but it looks like the problem has nothing to do with me specifically. Ah, I just got a message from a friend while writing this post and the ENTIRE VISA SYSTEM ACROSS CANADA WAS DOWN THIS AFTERNOON. OMG. Anyway, it’s all restored now and I’m not stranded anywhere!

Next, I walked around the courthouse that features a hanging tree where justice was expediently served. From there, I strolled a block to the post office. I got a really nice lady who told me not to miss Presidio La Bahia, which I was planning to head to. She told me that that and the state park were pretty much the only things open at this time, so that was good info.

It was misting when I got out of the post office and walked the few blocks to my truck, but the weather cleared somewhat by the time I got to Presidio La Bahia. Presidio is my Spanish word of the week; it means fort.

Presidio La Bahia was founded in 1721 on the ruins of a French fort, moved several times, and was restored to its original state in the 1960s. It is now the best preserved presidio in the U.S. Until today, if you had asked me how much I know about Texas history, I would have replied, “Not much.” Now, I know I actually had a very good colouring book out line of it! I knew the general gist of events and the names of the main players involved. Very surprising! Who says you can’t learn anything from a TV mini-series like True Women?

This fort was at the centre of many sieges and battles in the Mexican War of Independence and ensuing Texas Revolution as well as the site of the Goliad Massacre.

The Goliad courthouse.

The Goliad courthouse.

The Hanging Tree

The Hanging Tree

Goliad Courthouse

Goliad Courthouse

Market Street

Market Street

Another angle of the Goliad courthouse

Another angle of the Goliad courthouse

Empresario Restaurant

Empresario Restaurant

Empresario Restaurant

Empresario Restaurant

First view of Presidio La Bahia

First view of Presidio La Bahia

Nine flags have flown over Goliad

Nine flags have flown over Goliad

U.S., Confederate, Republic of Texas

U.S., Confederate, Republic of Texas

First Independence (Bloody Arm), Second Republic, Mexican

First Independence (Bloody Arm), Second Republic, Mexican

First Republic, French, Spanish

First Republic, French, Spanish

The nine flags of Goliad

The nine flags of Goliad

entrance

entrance

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entrance

entrance

lobby

lobby

The area was settled by tejanos, cattle ranchers.

The area was settled by tejanos, cattle ranchers.

There was a caste system depending on the mixture of your blood, from pure Spaniard to Indian, African, born in the colonies, and several mixtures and mixtures of mixtures.

There was a caste system depending on the mixture of your blood, from pure Spaniard to Indian, African, born in the colonies, and several mixtures and mixtures of mixtures.

There were reproductions of all the flags over the doorways.

There were reproductions of all the flags over the doorways.

The decor felt quite warm.

The decor felt quite warm.

I like that terra cotta colour that's close to my dressing room!

I like that terra cotta colour that’s close to my dressing room!

List of the men who were killed in the Goliad Massacre.

List of the men who were killed in the Goliad Massacre.

Distant relative of mine?

Distant relative of mine?

The bathroom hallway was impressive!

The bathroom hallway was impressive!

The Angel of Goliad was the wife of a soldier who saved some men from the Goliad Massacre.

The Angel of Goliad was the wife of a soldier who saved some men from the Goliad Massacre.

The Angel of Goliad.

The Angel of Goliad.

Whether the killing of the soldiers was a massacre or not depended on which side you were on!

Whether the killing of the soldiers was a massacre or not depended on which side you were on!

Santa Anna called the massacre the legitimate execution of outlaws.

Santa Anna called the massacre the legitimate execution of outlaws.

The doors are very narrow. You only go through half of one of these.

The doors are very narrow. You only go through half of one of these.

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Courtyard

Looking out towards the main road.

Looking out towards the main road.

Our Lady of Loreto chapel is the original construction from 1779 and services are still held there! That church is exactly 200 years older than me and in better shape!

Our Lady of Loreto chapel is the original construction from 1779 and services are still held there! That church is exactly 200 years older than me and in better shape!

Our Lady of Loreto chapel

Our Lady of Loreto chapel

church bell

church bell

statue

statue

Soft music played. You could feel every soul who ever prayed here. Look at that ceiling!

Soft music played. You could feel every soul who ever prayed here. Look at that ceiling!

Window.

Window.

Arch

Arch

balcony

balcony

pews

pews

It was possible to restore the fort because of a detailed lithograph that was based on a detailed drawing made by a solider posted at Presidio La Bahia (when it was called Fort Defiance).

It was possible to restore the fort because of a detailed lithograph that was based on a detailed drawing made by a solider posted at Presidio La Bahia (when it was called Fort Defiance).

Courtyard

Courtyard

The Fannin memorial in the distance (more on that).

The Fannin memorial in the distance (more on that).

the barracks

the barracks

Life at the presidio. It was a lifetime commitment to remain in the area. Soldiers farmed and ranched. They had their families with them.

Life at the presidio. It was a lifetime commitment to remain in the area. Soldiers farmed and ranched. They had their families with them.

Window.

Window.

Living quarters with a corner fireplace.

Living quarters with a corner fireplace.

The diet was mostly corn and beef.

The diet was mostly corn and beef.

Women brought a touch of civilization to the frontier.

Women brought a touch of civilization to the frontier.

Beautiful beamed ceiling in the barracks.

Beautiful beamed ceiling in the barracks.

More courtyard.

More courtyard.

More courtyard.

More courtyard.

More courtyard.

More courtyard.

Lots of nearly identical doors. Which one is the entrance?!

Lots of nearly identical doors. Which one is the entrance?!

Ah, the one with a little ramp!

Ah, the one with a little ramp!

Memorial to James Fannin, a leader of the Texas Revolution, and his men who were massacred at Goliad.

Memorial to James Fannin, a leader of the Texas Revolution, and his men who were massacred at Goliad.

OMG, is that an ORANGE TREE??!!

OMG, is that an ORANGE TREE??!!

If I had an orange tree, you wouldn't catch me wasting any of the fruit!

If I had an orange tree, you wouldn’t catch me wasting any of the fruit!

Visitors From Houston

Reader Pam and her mom drove out here all the way from Houston today to visit Miranda and then take me out to lunch! Two and a half hours each way! They also brought some packages that I had shipped to them.

It was really great to get company and to be able to show off my rig at a time when it is in the best shape it’s ever been in.

We had lunch at La Antigua (formerly La Parilla) in Port Lavaca, a Mexican and seafood restaurant with really good reviews. My chicken and shrimp fajitas were delicious and I have enough leftovers for at least one more meal.

Pam convinced me that my decision to skip Houston and Galveston is a good one and that I should be focusing on San Antonio and Austin. She also gave me some ideas of places near here that I could day trip to.

Thank you for a lovely visit, ladies!