Lucky’s Hamburgers

Tonight, I was in one of my I don’t feel like cooking and I’m bored with my food moods. I could have whipped up a Moroccan spiced lentil stew that would have cured that, but instead I decided to see if any of the food carts had set up for the evening.

Having been on a diet of corn tortillas for ages, I’ve been eating a lot of ‘Mexicany’ food for a while now and it’s pretty mundane for me. I’ve already had my fill of chips and salsa. There’s lots of wonderful options at sit down restaurants for seafood and the like, but when it comes to fast food, none of the options are super appealing to me.

So when I saw that the only cart that was up and running so early (Mexicans eat late) was the hamburger one, I decided to take a chance on it.

The cart was very new looking, better condition than many food carts I’ve bought food from in the U.S. I watched the lady work and she was very sanitation conscious. I hesitated to agree to lettuce and tomatoes, but eventually did so and saw her handle the veggies the way I would have handled mine at home.

The resulting burger had an absolutely forgettable patty of something unidentifable as even being related to beef, a nice thick layer of ham that gave me the protein feel I was craving, American-style cheese (both white and yellow and better than the stuff I get back home), really lovely fresh tomatoes and crisp lettuce, a wonderful buttered bun (bread is SUCH a treat!), and, most importantly FRENCH’S MUSTARD. I can’t believe I bought into the bull about mustard being AWOL in Mexico. There was no relish, so I used their very drippy Del Monte ketchup for a little sweetness.

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Despite the hamburger patty itself being absolutely bewildering, having the texture of a veggie patty, the sandwich as a whole was just what I needed tonight apparently as it really hit the spot!

I had a nice conversation with the cook, who just prattled on at me and patiently repeated each time I apologized and said that I wasn’t understanding her. Her husband came by and was excited to find someone with whom he could practice English (seriously, he’s having trouble finding people with whom he can practice English?!) and in the end, I paid 25 pesos for a 35 peso burger.

I’m not convinced that I’ll be going back for another burger anytime soon, but I’m glad I ventured out tonight and took a chance. Next week, I need to find the ‘crazy potato’ stand…

Visiting Mazatlán’s Centro Histórico

Before I get started about my day, I want to show off my new office space. I managed to get the legs off the table I’ve been using so I could relocate it to the back room and finally use the apartment as I intended to!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can't get them open, bars. :D

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can’t get them open, bars. 😀

The table is working great as a desk, to my surprise. A chair is a much more pressing need and I probably won’t bother getting another surface! Tonight, I will finish the set up by adding my printer and storing supplies on the copious shelves in the closet.

Now, on to the main event! After getting up super early this morning to finish today’s work project, I met up with Dale at 9:00. We walked across the beach to get to the south dock, commonly known as the beach panga, to go visit Maz’s historical district.

The panga is a very short trip, less than five minutes. This panga is 30 pesos. The northern, or village, one is, I believe, 16 pesos for residents. Oh, and this is round trip! You pay on the Maz side. Don’t lose your ticket!

Once in Maz, you can walk about a mile to the historic district or take a pulmonía (open air taxi). Dale and I are walkers, so we did the whole day on foot. She’d been a couple of times and was a good guide.

My first impression upon landing was just how clean and well maintained everything was, not what I expected to be honest. I spotted a sushi restaurant minutes from the panga which means… I CAN WALK TO A SUSHI RESTAURANT. OMG!!!!!!

You can tell when you get to the historical district as it’s all beautiful colourful old buildings and very tight streets, not unlike New Orleans’ French Quarter. Off in the distance, I could see the bright yellow cathedral that told me that I really was in Maz!

Being a Sunday morning, it was very quiet and most businesses were closed, a nice introduction to this part of the city. Dale just had me walk up and down streets until I noticed the archeological museum, free for all on Sundays!

We went in and spent, oh, a half hour or so. It is a small museum, but has tons of history about the area and is very well laid out. I learned a lot. There are some English translations, but rudimentary Spanish will help you get more out of it. I want to go back on my own another Sunday to read through everything.

Dale then led me to the water to see part of the Malecon and to get a good view of Ice Box Hill. She then showed me the HSBC bank she was told is one of the more reliable ATMs in the city.

It was just past 11:00 by this point and I was ready for lunch since I’d had an early breakfast. Dale had had a big breakfast and wasn’t going to be particularly hungry again today, so she was happy to head to a bar/restaurant she’d been to a few times and have a beer whenever I was ready.

She directed me back to the waterfront and the little restaurant with tables on the sidewalk. We ordered beer and were given breakfast menus, LOL! I asked at what time the lunch menu started and was told it was just about that time. Minutes later, we got the lunch menus. Everything looked good and prices were reasonable. Beer was 5 pesos less than at Carmelita’s on Isla.

I looked through the offerings and Dale had mentioned at least twice by that point that she’d enjoyed the nachos there and would be interested in nibbling on some (not in a hint, hint sort of way, more of in an I was actively listening manner). That sounded good to me and even though she is sort of vegetarian, she’s off the wagon this winter and was okay with ordering nachos with chorizo (sausage) on them (as well as beans and chihuahua cheese). Our beers came with chips and salsa, so that with the nachos made a filling lunch for me and a good snack for Dale.

The bill didn’t make sense, though, 210 pesos. We were both sure the nachos were 85 pesos and that we’d been charged twice for them. My first instinct was to just swallow the 42.5 pesos each. Then I told myself that I have enough language to ask for the bill to be explained to me, dangnabit!

So I flagged down the server and said that I didn’t understand the bill because we only had one order of nachos. The server immediately agreed that there was an error and ran off to fix it, apologizing profusely, and returning with a new bill that had SORRY written on it. The new bill was just 125 pesos and I added 15 pesos for the tip, making lunch, including beer, just 70 pesos each!

We both wanted ice cream after that and started keeping our eyes peeled for helado signs when I noticed a guy at a cart serving something that looked like ice cream. I asked Dale what she thought and a Mexican couple that spoke good English explained that it was a Maz-specific hand churned fruit ice cream. They told us what the flavours were and recommended guava. That’s what I ordered and the guy asked if I only wanted guava. I asked for another flavour and that it could be a surprise. The other flavour he picked was vanilla.

Dale unintentionally got the exact same thing! We were both really impressed by how light and easy on the tongue the guava was. The vanilla was creamier and closer to real ice cream. Our small portions were exactly the right size for me and just 20 pesos. Very yum!

As we ate, Dale guided us to the very impressive cathedral, already decked out for Christmas. It was, oh, about 1:00 by this point and we weren’t quite done, so she proposed we walk a couple more blocks to the big mercado.

WOW, what an experience! This part of town was BUSY and a lot closer to my border town experiences. I was looking for a hat but the prices were higher than I was willing to pay so I gave up on that. I did find a lentil seller and bought enough for four or five meals for NINE pesos. 75 cents CAD! Dale was surprised to see me buy those and be so happy about them. She eats them, but does not cook and would have no idea what to do with them. I lived off lentils as a student and they will be a welcome protein source!

We were both pretty cooked and done by this point, so we headed back to the dock, stopping at a pharmacy so Dale could get a few things now that she had a translator. She also had me help her buy a few things in the mercado. I have apparently earned my cheese! 🙂

It was so neat to head HOME from Maz while traffic was going in the opposite direction, coming from Isla back to the city on a Sunday afternoon.

Our next trip across the bay will be on the village panga to find the Ley grocery stores. More adventures forthcoming, but, first, mucho trabajo (work) ahead for a couple of days! 🙂

My whole day to that point cost me 140 pesos. That’s the panga, lunch (with beer!), ice cream, lentils, and some hand soap for my bathroom!

Now, pictures… and more details. 🙂

Looking towards Maz.

Looking towards Maz.

One of these is Goat Island.

One of these is Goat Island.

The sea is the temple of life.

The sea is the temple of life.

You walk up this 'path' to get to the panga.

You walk up this ‘path’ to get to the panga.

Dock.

Dock.

On the panga!

On the panga!

Approaching Maz.

Approaching Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

pelicans

pelicans

Ticket, good for a round trip.

Ticket, good for a round trip.

You walk down this road until you see...

You walk down this road until you see…

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

Pemex refinery station.

Pemex refinery station.

Just follow the blue line.

Just follow the blue line.

If you get loss, you're not paying attention.

If you get loss, you’re not paying attention.

Don't miss your turn!

Don’t miss your turn!

Such clean streets.

Such clean streets.

Love the building colours.

Love the building colours.

Pretty flowers.

Pretty flowers.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, 'hermosas endas'. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, ‘hermosas endas’. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

SUSHI!

SUSHI!

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the theatre/opera house

the theatre/opera house

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it's a microfiber that breathes and doesn't wrinkle

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it’s a microfiber that breathes and doesn’t wrinkle

Plaza Machado

Plaza Machado

more sushi!

more sushi!

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

archeological museum

archeological museum

bones placed in a foetal position

bones placed in a foetal position

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giving birth

giving birth

beautiful pottery

beautiful pottery

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

more bones in a funerary thing

more bones in a funerary thing

alabaster

alabaster

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

PUSH

PUSH

PULL

PULL

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

remains of the old tramway system

remains of the old tramway system

beautiful

beautiful

I want to go to the art museum one day.

I want to go to the art museum one day.

on the Malecon

on the Malecon

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Ice Box Hill

Ice Box Hill

public pay phone

public pay phone

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Motorcycle ramp!

Motorcycle ramp!

at the base of Ice Box Hill

at the base of Ice Box Hill

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these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it's EVERYWHERE.

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it’s EVERYWHERE.

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Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

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Decaying building.

Decaying building.

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. :)

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. 🙂

reinforcement inside the derelict building

reinforcement inside the derelict building

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Yummy nachos!

Yummy nachos!

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interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

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scooping out ice cream

scooping out ice cream

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

Maz cathedral!

Maz cathedral!

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Inside the mercado

Inside the mercado

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more sushi! :)

more sushi! 🙂

here's our ice cream guy again

here’s our ice cream guy again

towers on Ice Box Hill

towers on Ice Box Hill

back at the theatre

back at the theatre

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

beautiful theatre ceiling

beautiful theatre ceiling

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French's, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don't even have to look for it! :D

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French’s, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don’t even have to look for it! 😀

Chickenday

I’m now on emergency bandwidth and have no idea when the internet guy is going to show up, but otherwise life on Isla continues to be wonderful, especially since today is Chickenday!

First, I got an email from reader Janet (*waves*) who read about my earplug plight and offered to give me a pair of waxy ones (thank you!). I tried foamies last night and they weren’t great, so I hope these are better! She and her husband Grant stopped in to introduce themselves and drop off the earplugs.

I learned that there are Leys grocery stores walking distance (by my standards) from the panga in Mazatlán and that prices aren’t that much better than our little market here, but, of course, the selection is better. This is excellent news! I had a hard time believing that the only grocery options were to take a panga then a pulmonia to Walmart, Soriana, or Mega.

Around 2:00, I gave up on the idea of internet installation today and headed down to the chicken stand. I passed a few people holding chicken bags, so that put a spring in my step!

On the way, I stopped at the small convenience store just a block from me to see if they sell newspapers. I had to wait to speak with the clerk, so I perused the wares. They were similar to what’s available at the Super Deli. No idea about prices, but good to know there’s much closer option for basics if I’m stuck needing something.

As it turns out, there are no newspaper sellers on Isla. 🙁 I’m told to go up and down the main road betwen 7:00 and 8:00 in the morning to catch the paperboy. If he has any left over, he sells them to the little store next to the chicken stand, but I shouldn’t count on finding one there. I am going to try to find the newspaper boy tomorrow since I love reading local papers to get a feel for what’s going on in the area.

Next, chicken! I only got one today because I’m still trying to stretch my pesos (doing okay in that regard, I won’t be going hungry!) and going to Mazatlán tomorrow. I again had to wait quite a long time for the chicken to be deemed sufficiently cooked because a guy ahead of me bought FIVE. Croft told me to try bargaining for my chicken prices, but this local guy paid 500 pesos for his five chickens, so I don’t think the price is negotiable.

They were running low on rice in one pot by my turn and the gal scrapped the pot very well, giving me lots of lovely crunchy tomato bits as well as fluffy rice from the middle of the pot. She asked if I liked the rice and would eat it all if she just gave me what was left in the pot. YES! So I got quite a big mountain of rice in addition to my entire chicken!

There were a couple of funny moments while I was waiting for my chicken. One, there was a chicken roaming around looking for stray bits of rice. I said to it (in Spanish), “Careful, chicken, or you’ll be coooked next!” and two people heard me and laughed. Then, a little girl started twirling her hair around and her mother said, “Careful! The lady won’t like hair in her chicken!” I said that no, I wouldn’t, but it would be a small price to see such a happy child. The mother relaxed and the girl just beamed at me.

As I headed off, just steps from the chicken stand, I saw something shiny in the dirt and found a 2 peso coin. That’s enough to tip someone!
On the way home, my neighbour across the street was standing in her doorway seeing her child off. She saw my bag and asked if it was chicken. Yes. Were there a lot of people? Just one person behind me. She then yelled to her girl to run as fast as she could to the chicken stand!

I know I keep going on about this, but I am so ecstatic about my language skills! One thing I have to say about Mexican Spanish is that it is MUCH easier to understand as it is spoken slower than South American or European Spanish. I have only once or twice had to ask a person to slow down. Just think of the lady at the convenience store explaining to me how to buy a paper, where to buy it, and when. Lots there and while I didn’t catch every word, I got what she was saying.

I am convinced I wouldn’t have been able to do that in Spain or South America. I also appreciate that no one is trying to simplify their speech with me either, no dumbing down for the turista, just talking to me normally, albeit probably a little slower.

With my grammar and syntax being so solid, I’m adding more verb tenses and vocabulary daily, not worrying about formally adding this knowledge like I would in a classroom, but rather absorbing it as a child would. I’ve got a long, long way to go to fluency, but I’ve been in Mexico for about two weeks now and am conversing comfortably and doing what I need to do, so I imagine I’ll be very close to a level of fluency by the spring.

In fact, one of my clients is hoping to be able to use me for very basic and small Spanish transcription projects starting next year. He’s had me transcribe the odd phrase in the past and said that I got good feedback on that from a Spanish speaker, so this is quite realistic and would mean I could increase my rates! 🙂

I’m going back to work now, trying to get ahead on tomorrow’s project so I can take off with Dale without a deadline looming over my head. I know I have work incoming for Monday and Tuesday and hope it will be in tomorrow so I can go to the bar to download the files since I won’t want to leave home again on Monday. I’m debating whether to get a small (1GB) Banda Ancha package or not for this week…

The Chicken Lady!

I actually first heard about The Chicken Lady from my neighbours Charles and Caroline! Contessa and Croft confirmed that she exists. It was then up to me to find her.

I’m still behind on work, but needed a walk. Instead of going straight to the beach, I decided to go up my street and turn to emerge on the paved road right by the basketball court. I could then circle back around and come home by the beach. Well, I didn’t get that far. Soon as I reached the basketball court, I could smell chicken roasting!

So here’s the scoop on Isla’s chicken lady. She is set up on the paved street in a stand across from and right between the basketball court and the police station. She only sells chickens Saturdays and Sundays. BOO. I was hoping the days would be spaced out a bit more. Half a chicken is 50 pesos, a whole one is 100 pesos, not much better than I pay for a pre- roasted bird in Assiniboia, but still not expensive!

HOWEVER her birds are MUCH tastier and they are a full meal, coming with tomato rice (wonderful!), tortillas, and salsa. This is what 50 pesos (4.18CAD/3.69USD) gets you from Isla’s chicken lady:

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She had me confirm how much I wanted and that the quantity was worth 50 pesos. She then hacked my half of the bird into smaller pieces to see if they were cooked and put the pieces back on the grill since they weren’t.

I had time to watch the process since it took about 10 minutes for my half chicken to be deemed sufficiently cooked. She takes raw chickens (that looked perfectly fine with good colour) and soaks them in a brine, which gives them an amazing flavour throughout (not spicy, just a little salty and yummy). They then go on a HOT charcoal grill, eliminating most of the worries about her not washing her hands between touching raw and cooked chicken.

Once the chicken is cooked, she plates it with tongs and passes the plate to a non-chicken handling helper who adds a generous scoop of rice, several tortillas, and a bag of salsa (which I haven’t tried and am going to save for the bean burritos I’ll have tomorrow instead of tonight). The meal is then double bagged and passed to the customer who pays.

I came straight home with my treasure, or at least tried to, somehow making a wrong turn. I followed the sound of my neighbours’ dang roosters and eventually emerged near the RV park, about two Isla blocks from my place.

So my first Mexican street food!

And I must reiterate how yummy that dang chicken was. It was all I could do to only eat half while it was hot and put the rest in the fridge for later!

 

Beach and Town Scenes

I’m back at work full-time tomorrow for at least the weekend (YAY), so I imagine my rate of posting is about to go down. In the meantime, enjoy some more pictures of Isla!