May 6, 2010 by Rae

Sawtooth Mountains to Watson Lake (!)

The rig was cozy this morning, belying how bloody cold it was outside. The day promised to warm up, though, and the sun was shining brightly. I refused to be rushed, enjoying a leisurely breakfast and reading for a couple of hours with Tabitha happily curled up on my lap.

When I did hit the road, finally, it was with excitement at the treat that waited for me an hour or so down the road, a soak in the hot springs!

As I did that final mountainous stretch, with grades reaching 9% and curves hugging Muncho Lake nearing ninety degrees I realised with a shock that somewhere between Hope and Summit Lake I went from being a novice full-timer wannabe to a seasoned RVer. I could do longer and more difficult stretches now because I was comfortable at the wheel of my rig and confident in my abilities. Even the boondocking thing has improved over last year as I’ve learned how to manage my batteries.

With this realisation came the fact that I am out of that grey zone where I was no longer housebound but not yet firmly rooted to my nomadic existence. I belong to the road now and my destiny is in the wind at my back. Second star to the right and straight on till morning, and all that.

Liard Hot Springs hasn’t opened for the summer season yet, so admission was free! I had a leisurely soak in Beta Pool and was just about to float off into a nap when a fish thought it would be funny to come tickle my armpit! I didn’t even know there are fish in the hot springs! Needless to say, my torpor was broken and I decided it was time to head out. The fish’s timing was pretty good since a couple approached Beta Pool just as I headed out.

It was an easy drive to Watson Lake after with very few grades or curves. I drove down the main drag until I saw a spot in front of the defunct Chinese restaurant where I felt I could stop for a couple of hours if I could get online, which I obviously am. 🙂 I’ll be pulling out shortly, will get gas, and then will complete the final schlep to Nugget City for the night.

Most of the following pictures are of buffalo, my obsession with which I discussed in depth last year. 🙂

approaching Muncho Lake

that black bear darted across the highway faster than you can say lickety split!

red light just shy of Watson Lake

April 15, 2010 by Rae

Boots in the Juan de Fuca Strait

There is no logical or explainable reason for this, but one of my bucket list items was to one day touch the waters of the Juan de Fuca Strait, one of the most contested boundaries between the US and Canada. There is a mythical quality to such places as they provide truly clear borders. Here I am in Canada; there I am in the US. It doesn’t feel like political whim because there is a flowing fence between the two nations.

Even though you can see the Strait from Victoria, I decided to push west a bit to get a clearer shot of it, so Mrs. H suggested we drive to French Beach Provincial Park, where the cobblestone beach is unique. It was a perfect idea and I am once again grateful to have had a local guide.

rest area between Jordan River and French Beach

walking down to French Beach

skunk cabbage

salmon berry flower

April 14, 2010 by Rae

A Coastal Drive and the Ross Bay Cemetery

The final thing Mrs. H wanted to show me today was her old stomping grounds along the water front. It was a beautiful drive and exactly the sort of thing I miss out on when I don’t have a local guide. She also recommended I check out Ross Bay Cemetery, where many prominent Victorians are buried, including Emily Carr a writer and painter. I didn’t find that grave, but I did photograph quite a few interesting ones.

Today was a rich, full day. Thanks, Mrs. H!

April 14, 2010 by Rae

Butchart Gardens

Butchart Gardens is probably the best known Victoria attraction. They were planted in the early 20th century in what used to be a limestone quarry. While this sounded ‘nice’, I knew it would not be my best use of nearly $30, so I was going to skip it, but Mrs. H insisted on taking me there.

We had a wonderful time and I greatly enjoyed myself, more than I would have had I gone on my own since Mrs. H was able to tell the names of a lot of the flowers.

My favourite gardens were the Japanese and the Sunken and my least favourite was the Italian. I like Japanese gardens because they feel very natural for all their formality, with soft ground covers, ponds with bridges, and rocky paths. The Sunken Garden was a formidable feat of horticulture; transforming the lunar landscape of a limestone query into a Technicolour world straight out of a fantasy. I don’t like Italian gardens because they are too stiff and formal, very hard with stone underfoot and statues all around.

These are the best pictures I took:

Mediterranean garden

angeliques (type of tulip)

trillium (the provincial flower of Ontario)

the snail fountain

forget-me-nots

you walk along this dark path only to emerge…

in a whole new world! I was *awed*!

camelias

this chimney is all that is left of the cement factory that used to be on the property

camelias

pansies

these are wire animals covered with moss

checkered or snake lilies; the petals have a snakeskin pattern

more moss-covered wire animals

hyacinthes

a moss-covered wire frog

English daisies

seed field

look closely; this yellow tulip has a red petal!

the frog fountain

approaching the entrance to the Japanese garden

sturgeon fountain

the two ravens were breaking off twigs to build their nest

these lamps made me smile

moss-covered ground

a wall of bamboo

bamboo walkway

Butchart Cove

crane fountain

magnolias

another frog fountain, this time at the star pond

star pond

Mr. and Mrs. Mallard taking a nap in the star pond

entrance to the Italian garden

Italian garden

Visiting Butchart Gardens was a pleasant way to wile away a few hours, but it still feels way overpriced to me, impressed as I was by the way the old quarry was completely transformed.

February 3, 2010 by Rae

Hiking Near Ucluelet

I checked out of the hostel this morning and headed to nearby Ucluelet to hike the Wild Pacific Trail. Here’s a map that shows the Tofino and Ucluelet peninsulas well, including some of the hiking stops I made on my trip:

http://www.tofinotime.com/maps/tofino-map-long-beach-ucluelet.gif

There was nothing else to do in Ucluelet, and this was confirmed by the visitors’ centre. The detour wasn’t a waste of time, however, seeing as the Wild Pacific Trail was one of the most beautiful trails I have ever seen! It takes you through rain forest and along the water front, past gorgeous beaches and rocky shore. The contrasts in landscapes were inspiring.

The trail is an easy 2.5km loop that I think could be considered ‘accessible’ as it is entirely on a gravel path. There are some steep uphill and downhill sections, but I’d consider the trail a ‘stroll’ rather than a ‘hike.’

I headed home around noon and pulled in around 3, driving straight through. It’s been a great weekend!