Colonial Williamsburg, Part One: Introduction and the Hopes Plantation

It is a very weary and happy time travel who posts tonight! My day in Colonial Williamsburg was much too full to do it justice in just one post, so I will be breaking it up into several.

Williamsburg is known as the Revolutionary City. It was the first capital of Virginia and the centre of political activity that would lead to the United States declaring its independence from England.

The historical part of the city, Colonial Williamsburg, is a huge living history museum set circa 1774, just before the American Revolution and the ratification of the Declaration of Independence. I’ll get a little more into some of the history as I work my way through the exhibits.

While Colonial Williamsburg is a living history museum, it is not like so many others I have visited where the costumed interpreters play a part and pretend they are actually living in that era. While they may take on the persona of an 18th-century whatever, they are still their 21st century selves and can answer questions as such.

In order to visit all the exhibits, you must purchase a ticket, which is $39.95 for one day. I got lucky and was able to buy my ticket through Groupon for $19.95. But, spoiler, $39.95 is a bargain!

My tips for Colonial Williamsburg: wear comfortable shoes, bring your own water and a picnic, don’t think you’ll find one-of-a-kind souvenirs, and if you absolutely want to pay huge prices for dinner, reserve very early to eat at one of the taverns. Yes, much of Colonial Williamsburg is a giant tourist trap, but one that is still well worth doing!

Plan a lot of time to visit Colonial Williamsburg properly. I arrived at 9AM and by noon I hadn’t even set foot in the core of the city yet! Many visitable buildings include tours of 20 to 45 minutes in duration and you can easily spend 10 to 15 minutes in each of the other ones watching demonstrations. I decided to work my way through the city, devote myself wholly to the activity in which I was engaged, and not bemoan missing anything when the day ended.

One interpreter gave me a valuable tip. While the town buildings and tours close at 5PM, the museum closes at 7PM. A good way to organize you day is to travel clockwise around the city, finish with the museum, and then hop on the free shuttle to get back to the Visitors’ Centre.

I don’t take notes, so the following pictures provide information I remember, but in no way encompass the whole of what I learned during my visit. You’ll just have to come to Colonial Williamsburg one day!

Fort Chambly (and a Bonus Side Trip to Downtown Montreal)

Canadian history is a bloody mess of conquests, racial tensions, thrilling battles, crushing defeats, and centuries-long grudges. How anyone can call our history boring is beyond me. It is such a shame that many Canadians know about, say, the battle of the Alamo or Custer’s Last Stand but know nothing about the raid on Deerfield or why the political situation in Quebec is as it is.

Canadians need to go to places like Fort Chambly and read the placards or to sites like Fort Lennox where history is brought to life. Our country was born here, along the Saint-Lawrence, Ottawa, and Richelieu Rivers. You can’t understand what it is to be Canadian today without understanding how it is that we got here. I believe that if more Canadians knew and appreciated their history, we would be able to get over our linguistic and cultural grudges and form a strong, united, country. But as long as we keep this nearly four-century year old resentment alive without understanding its basis, there can be no resolution.

Fort Chambly sits at the heart of Canadian history, rooted in the French-Indian Wars of the 17th century, the English conquest of New France of the 18th century, and the 1812 war against the United States.

Located on the banks of the Richelieu River, an important north-south link with New York state, Fort Chambly is now a park where families come to picnic and I used to spend long hours up a tree writing, reading, and day dreaming. I spent my late childhood and adolescence just a few blocks away and the grounds of the fort were like my second home

I’d been meaning to return to the fort all summer. Since I was due for a date with my grand-mother, I proposed that we go to Fort Chambly today. I felt a little trepidation at coming back for the first time in 15 years, but I was glad to see that it was the same place. The trees have grown a little, but that’s it.

I’ll put all the information in the photo captions, but will say that after we toured the fort, we enjoyed a picnic under the trees. Then, we drove to Saint-Lambert to drop off something for my aunt and I got spirited away on a short jaunt to downtown Montreal to see my cousin’s loft; hence the bonus Montreal pictures.

Merci pour la belle journée, grand-maman!

Fort Chambly from the parking lot. You used to actually see the Fort; the trees have grown!

Fort Chambly from the parking lot. You used to actually see the Fort; the trees have grown!

The bridge from the parking lot to the Fort, looking towards the Bassin

The bridge from the parking lot to the Fort, looking towards the Bassin

Looking up towards Bourgogne Avenue (I took the bus to high school up there for a year).

Looking up towards Bourgogne Avenue (I took the bus to high school up there for a year).

I couldn't believe how much the trees have grown!

I couldn’t believe how much the trees have grown!

the Bassin de Chambly (a large spot in the Richelieu River), with the marina (the water is FILTHY, so while there is boating, there's no swimming)

the Bassin de Chambly (a large spot in the Richelieu River), with the marina (the water is FILTHY, so while there is boating, there’s no swimming)

The Bassin de Chambly

The Bassin de Chambly

approaching the entrance to the fort

approaching the entrance to the fort

approaching the entrance to the fort

approaching the entrance to the fort

looking up river

looking up river

entrance to the fort

entrance to the fort

names of some of the major military leaders who commanded the fort in the 17th and 18th centuries (names added at the end of the 19th century)

names of some of the major military leaders who commanded the fort in the 17th and 18th centuries (names added at the end of the 19th century)

inside the fort

inside the fort

map of New France

map of New France

most of the exhibits are about the fort in the late 17th century at the time of New France before the British conquest

most of the exhibits are about the fort in the late 17th century at the time of New France before the British conquest

Fort Chambly was built along the Richelieu between Albany and Montreal

Fort Chambly was built along the Richelieu between Albany and Montreal

map of the Iroquois Wars/French-Indian Wars, 1641 to 1701

map of the Iroquois Wars/French-Indian Wars, 1641 to 1701

looking downriver from Montreal to Albany

looking downriver from Montreal to Albany

at the time, it took four hours to go from Chambly to Longueuil (now about 20 minutes!)

at the time, it took four hours to go from Chambly to Longueuil (now about 20 minutes!)

I remember this pottery

I remember this pottery

Fort Saint-Jean was the next fort south of Chambly

Fort Saint-Jean was the next fort south of Chambly

Fort Chambly was the last defensive outpost of Montreal

Fort Chambly was the last defensive outpost of Montreal

I remember this pottery

I remember this pottery

Albany and Montreal were rivals in the fur trade but Canada never attacked the city. In the 18th century, it took eight to make the journey by canoe. I made this route in just a few hours northward this spring.

Albany and Montreal were rivals in the fur trade but Canada never attacked the city. In the 18th century, it took eight to make the journey by canoe. I made this route in just a few hours northward this spring.

from Albany looking up towards Montreal

from Albany looking up towards Montreal

Albany, 1760

Albany, 1760

Montreal, 1760

Montreal, 1760

looking out towards the middle of the fort

looking out towards the middle of the fort

Lake Champlain

Lake Champlain

I still love the plank floors

I still love the plank floors

wow, this place hasn't changed!

wow, this place hasn’t changed!

fierce Iroquois warriors

fierce Iroquois warriors

his tattoos are impressive!

his tattoos are impressive!

He was a Mohawk chief known as Brant

He was a Mohawk chief known as Brant

the fur trade was the pillar of the New France economy

the fur trade was the pillar of the New France economy

reasons for Fort Chambly: in short, to prevent invasion and to provide a staging ground for invasion

reasons for Fort Chambly: in short, to prevent invasion and to provide a staging ground for invasion

a tomahawk

a tomahawk

a variety of snowshoes

a variety of snowshoes

remnants of a shovel

remnants of a shovel

The population of New France was 4,415, of which the split was 30% soldiers, 30% women, and 40% civilian men. In other words, women were a commodity in short supply!

The population of New France was 4,415, of which the split was 30% soldiers, 30% women, and 40% civilian men. In other words, women were a commodity in short supply!

a musket

a musket

the raid on Deerfield was in 1704

the raid on Deerfield was in 1704

New England prisoners from the raid were forced marched back to Fort Chambly with the woman forced into arranged marriages and the children given to French Canadian families

New England prisoners from the raid were forced marched back to Fort Chambly with the woman forced into arranged marriages and the children given to French Canadian families

18th century wedding bands

18th century wedding bands

18th century children's clothing

18th century children’s clothing

children were stolen from their families and brought back to Canada to be raised French

children were stolen from their families and brought back to Canada to be raised French

17th century toys

17th century toys

a key

a key

17th century tools

17th century tools

the existing fort was rebuilt from 1750 plans

the existing fort was rebuilt from 1750 plans

how the fort was constructed

how the fort was constructed

powder magazine

powder magazine

view from the powder magazine

view from the powder magazine

view from the powder magazine

view from the powder magazine

powder magazine

powder magazine

we're now on the second story and I am showing how the wooden turrets seen from outside are decorative (save one)

we’re now on the second story and I am showing how the wooden turrets seen from outside are decorative (save one)

looking out over the Richelieu

looking out over the Richelieu

the fort is square with loopholes and other defense mechanisms at each corner

the fort is square with loopholes and other defense mechanisms at each corner

I've always loved his sneer!

I’ve always loved his sneer!

soldiers at work

soldiers at work

that drum looks heavy!

that drum looks heavy!

sword

sword

a 17th century screwdriver!

a 17th century screwdriver!

17th century personal effects of a soldier

17th century personal effects of a soldier

a 17th century shoe

a 17th century shoe

soldiers having dinner (the corn still looks good, the stew still looks like dog food)

soldiers having dinner (the corn still looks good, the stew still looks like dog food)

in the 17th century, the daily ration was about 2,000 calories while today the military rations are about 2,500 calories

in the 17th century, the daily ration was about 2,000 calories while today the military rations are about 2,500 calories

modern rations have changed!

modern rations have changed!

soldiers grooming (there's even one sleeping in the bed)

soldiers grooming (there’s even one sleeping in the bed)

soldiers with families billeted in the village

soldiers with families billeted in the village

soldiers at rest

soldiers at rest

a soldier "enjoyed a good life and a bad reputation"

a soldier “enjoyed a good life and a bad reputation”

tobacco

tobacco

an imposing commander

an imposing commander

Fort Chambly was surrendered to the English in September of 1760, just before the capitulation of New France

Fort Chambly was surrendered to the English in September of 1760, just before the capitulation of New France

In1763, the King of France conceded defeat and handed New France to the British. Two hundred years later, the French would take back their country during Quebec's Quiet Revolution. Two centuries of English oppression cannot be forgiven and now the English in Quebec are paying for the sins of their ancestors. How many generations will it take for this rift to be healed?

In1763, the King of France conceded defeat and handed New France to the British. Two hundred years later, the French would take back their country during Quebec’s Quiet Revolution. Two centuries of English oppression cannot be forgiven and now the English in Quebec are paying for the sins of their ancestors. How many generations will it take for this rift to be healed?

"All conquests go deep -- they are among the deepest of human experiences."

“All conquests go deep — they are among the deepest of human experiences.”

a dormer window looking into the courtyard

a dormer window looking into the courtyard

comparison of the population in different years

comparison of the population in different years

lovely window

lovely window

a typical French Canadian homestead (seigneurie) was 10 times as long as it was wide and was set against the river

a typical French Canadian homestead (seigneurie) was 10 times as long as it was wide and was set against the river

sample 18th century homestead

sample 18th century homestead

bread was a staple food, with wheat comprising 50% of the diet

bread was a staple food, with wheat comprising 50% of the diet

other grains, like rye and corn, comprised 10% each of the diet

other grains, like rye and corn, comprised 10% each of the diet

toys

toys

we are about to go up to the watchtower (watch your head!)

we are about to go up to the watchtower (watch your head!)

it's very claustrophobic up there!

it’s very claustrophobic up there!

gorgeous view from the watchtower

gorgeous view from the watchtower

gorgeous view from the watchtower

gorgeous view from the watchtower

gorgeous view from the watchtower

gorgeous view from the watchtower

I always thought this model of a bird was pretty

I always thought this model of a bird was pretty

entering the Albany room (named for the singer Albani), which holds temporary exhibits (currently about the War of 1812)

entering the Albany room (named for the singer Albani), which holds temporary exhibits (currently about the War of 1812)

"For Canadians, the War of 1812 was about the successful defense of a small colony against attack by a much larger neighbor."

“For Canadians, the War of 1812 was about the successful defense of a small colony against attack by a much larger neighbor.”

a cocky 13-year-old boy did not believe the Americans would win

a cocky 13-year-old boy did not believe the Americans would win

"For the United States, the War of 1812 was a second successful war of independence from Britain."

“For the United States, the War of 1812 was a second successful war of independence from Britain.”

I am really amused that the US thinks it won the War of 1812 because Canada didn't conquer it.

I am really amused that the US thinks it won the War of 1812 because Canada didn’t conquer it.

Tony Blair apologizes for the British/Canada burning down the Library of Congress during the War of 1812.

Tony Blair apologizes for the British/Canada burning down the Library of Congress during the War of 1812.

Tony Blair apologizes for the British/Canada burning down the Library of Congress during the War of 1812.

Tony Blair apologizes for the British/Canada burning down the Library of Congress during the War of 1812.

While US and British relations normalized after the War of 1812, Native Americans were left vulnerable.

While US and British relations normalized after the War of 1812, Native Americans were left vulnerable.

modern Britain has almost completely forgotten the War of 1812

modern Britain has almost completely forgotten the War of 1812

back in the courtyard, we're heading towards the luxurious (for the time) privies

back in the courtyard, we’re heading towards the luxurious (for the time) privies

this luxurious privy was over fast moving water, meaning no smells or diseases

this luxurious privy was over fast moving water, meaning no smells or diseases

looking up the rapids

looking up the rapids

looking towards the rear of the fort

looking towards the rear of the fort

Grand-maman packed lunch. It doesn't look like much, but it got me to dinner, which is no small feat! We had crackers, cheese, almonds, a fig, half a banana, and a couple of bite-sized oatmeal chocolate chip cookies each, plus water. We ate on the grass in the shade of a big tree.

Grand-maman packed lunch. It doesn’t look like much, but it got me to dinner, which is no small feat! We had crackers, cheese, almonds, a fig, half a banana, and a couple of bite-sized oatmeal chocolate chip cookies each, plus water. We ate on the grass in the shade of a big tree.

the watchtower we visited

the watchtower we visited

the watchtower we visited

the watchtower we visited

the rear of the fort (with fake watchtowers)

the rear of the fort (with fake watchtowers)

In 1775-1776, during their War of Independence, the Americans invaded Canada. In 1812, we finally had enough and burned down their White House. :)

In 1775-1776, during their War of Independence, the Americans invaded Canada. In 1812, we finally had enough and burned down their White House. 🙂

Saint-Jean was favoured over Chambly for defense starting in 1840

Saint-Jean was favoured over Chambly for defense starting in 1840

I used to climb this tree and read in its branches for hours!!!

I used to climb this tree and read in its branches for hours!!!

The big hole was smaller back then, but the seat-like branch where I'd make myself comfy is still there

The big hole was smaller back then, but the seat-like branch where I’d make myself comfy is still there

the tree looks a lot worse for wear now!

the tree looks a lot worse for wear now!

:(

🙁

the father of one of my high school friends was the reverend of this church

the father of one of my high school friends was the reverend of this church

the guard house (closed to visits)

the guard house (closed to visits)

my grand-mother thought it was hilarious that my best memory of this park and community centre was of the time I stepped in dog doo there!

my grand-mother thought it was hilarious that my best memory of this park and community centre was of the time I stepped in dog doo there!

The Ducharme residence (formerly a garrison, then converted to a stately home)

The Ducharme residence (formerly a garrison, then converted to a stately home)

it's for sale!

it’s for sale!

the house was bought in 1908 and used as a saddlery, then was converted to a residence in 1938

the house was bought in 1908 and used as a saddlery, then was converted to a residence in 1938

Fort Chambly is a National Historic Site

Fort Chambly is a National Historic Site

intersection of Bourgogne and Langevin, the street where I grew up. I took my bus here one year and resented it badly since I lived on the opposite end of the street (quite a distance) and the bus passed just a block from my house.

intersection of Bourgogne and Langevin, the street where I grew up. I took my bus here one year and resented it badly since I lived on the opposite end of the street (quite a distance) and the bus passed just a block from my house.

looking down Langevin street

looking down Langevin street

I lived here from 1987 to 1998 (age 8 to 19). It's not a mansion! There are three apartments; we lived in two and rented the third. The joke was that the guy who built it was missing only two tools: a level and a square. The house was a bunch of rooms added to each other and we actually discovered a secret room off the garage (cold cellar) and there was a secret passage going from my room to the downstairs apartment!

I lived here from 1987 to 1998 (age 8 to 19). It’s not a mansion! There are three apartments; we lived in two and rented the third. The joke was that the guy who built it was missing only two tools: a level and a square. The house was a bunch of rooms added to each other and we actually discovered a secret room off the garage (cold cellar) and there was a secret passage going from my room to the downstairs apartment!

Bourgogne Avenue (further back, the street has really been developed into a touristy strip)

Bourgogne Avenue (further back, the street has really been developed into a touristy strip)

downtown Montreal, place Ville-Marie (building that looks like a carpenter's pencil)

downtown Montreal, place Ville-Marie (building that looks like a carpenter’s pencil)

Place Bonaventure (the train depot, mega shopping centre, and the hub of underground Montreal)

Place Bonaventure (the train depot, mega shopping centre, and the hub of underground Montreal)

the hideous Palais des congrès

the hideous Palais des congrès

the hideous Palais des congrès

the hideous Palais des congrès

we're on the roof terrace of my cousin's loft (shared space) looking at the Hôtel Inter-Continentel

we’re on the roof terrace of my cousin’s loft (shared space) looking at the Hôtel Inter-Continentel

church from the terrace

church from the terrace

water tower?

water tower?

National Bank headquarters (on the right, behind the crane)

National Bank headquarters (on the right, behind the crane)

close up of the Hôtel Inter-Continentel

close up of the Hôtel Inter-Continentel

closeup of the church

closeup of the church

I like churches :)

I like churches 🙂

Hydro-Québec headquarters (they have the monopoly to create and provide electricity)

Hydro-Québec headquarters (they have the monopoly to create and provide electricity)

Weekend in the Kootenays

I just got in from a great weekend visiting with Donna and Ken who are staying at a lovely RV park just outside of Cranbrook, BC. This was my first time driving through the Crowsnest Pass area on my own and the four hour trip was much longer with just the radio for company, but still as beautiful!

The wind was terrible along the entire stretch out of the Prairies and into the foothills. I stopped in Pincher Creek for coffee and fuel and it was just as bad as the last time I was there.

Pincher Creek

I was glad to cease my white-knuckle driving by the time I hit the Crowsnest pass, and by Blairmore a few speckles of rain had replaced the wind. It was then a smooth and easy drive to Fort Steele, 10 minutes north of Cranbrook. I arrived around five and quickly made myself at home. I was impressed by how much progress Ken and Donna had made in turning their new rig into an organized and functional home!

We didn’t do much Friday evening because I was running on very little sleep and exhausted. I did walk around the park a bit

the Ark 2.0

and check out their emu neighbours!

emu

We hit the sack pretty early, but made up for it with a very full Saturday!

When I planned this weekend, I sort of thought of doing the Kootenay circuit to make up for missing the stretch from Banff to Cranbrook after my engine troubles.

Kootenay circuit–Lethbridge to Cranbrook to Radium Hot Springs to Banff to Calgary to Lethbridge

But that would have meant an eight-hour trip home, most of it through familiar territory. I instead proposed that we drive up to the village of Radium Hot Springs, gateway to Kootenay National Park, about 300km round trip from Cranbrook. Ken and Donna thought that was a great idea and Midnight was happy to come along for the ride.

One of the most interesting things we came across on the drive to Radium was Columbia Lake, which is the source of the Columbia River, along the banks of which I spent quite some time this spring. It’s very beautiful!

Columbia Lake

Radium is the typical hot springs resort town. We drove through quickly and turned around at the gate to Kootenay National Park since we wouldn’t have gotten our money’s worth out of the admission fee.

There’s a sign in the video for This is Our Home that piqued my curiosity because I had no idea where it’s located. Well, I found it in Radium!

We also saw the very strange house of the Radium woodcarver:

strange house in Radium

The Kootenays were beautiful on this crisp autumn afternoon, with snow on the higher peaks and lots of amber. It was a great drive!

vista just south of Radium village

Today’s agenda was for me to get to know the emus. Here’s a video of Donna feeding them:

Lots more pictures of my trip are in the gallery below!

I left Fort Steele around 2 and was in Lethbridge by quarter to six where I was expected for dinner! Gary made sure to send me home with leftovers of the perfectly normal variety. You know, a few roasted sweet potatoes, a couple of muffins, some fresh baked bread, a container of homemade soup, and two whole roasted chickens. You read that correctly. I adore that man! 😀

Pincher Creek

Pincher Creek

Pincher Creek

Pincher Creek

emu

emu

emu

emu

emu

emu

emu

emu

daddy emu

daddy emu

the Ark 2.0

the Ark 2.0

Pepe in overflow

Pepe in overflow

Kootenay sky

Kootenay sky

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

Columbia Lake, source of the Columbia River

Columbia Lake, source of the Columbia River

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

Columbia Lake

my favourite dog, Midnight

my favourite dog, Midnight

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

north towards Radium Hot Springs

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

strange house in Radium

entrance to Kootenay National Park

entrance to Kootenay National Park

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

vista just south of Radium village

Donna taking a picture of the vista just south of Radium village for her blog :-)

Donna taking a picture of the vista just south of Radium village for her blog 🙂

you'd swear my car was in the Okanagan!

you’d swear my car was in the Okanagan!

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

heading south from Radium

emu coming for a snack

emu coming for a snack

emu snacking

emu snacking

emu snacking

emu snacking

emu hoping for more snacks

emu hoping for more snacks

Kootenay sky

Kootenay sky

approaching Fernie

approaching Fernie

approaching Fernie

approaching Fernie

back to the Prairies

back to the Prairies

The Commissioner’s Residence

After the Robert Service program I headed back to Front Street for an ice cream, then went to visit the Commissioner’s Residence.

Territorial administration is a little different from that of the provinces and I’m not quite up to speed on it. If I understand correctly, the Commissioner of Yukon is the Queen’s representative in the territory, similar to the role of the Governor General.

At the time when Dawson was the capital of the Yukon territory, the commissioner resided in a grand house on Front Street. It was grander once upon a time, but burned down during a Christmas fire and was rebuilt much more simply.

Today, it’s possible to tour the house and grounds at your leisure. There isn’t much information provided, so it’s not the best value attraction in Dawson. I’d do it as part of the Pick-a-Pack and consider it the ‘free’ option.

Like many buildings in Dawson, the gorgeous bright yellow exterior of the house is a façade belying the fact that most of the interior is a wreck. The front bottom half of the house was restored to Edwardian splendour and reminds me of Rutherford House in Edmonton, decorated in the same era. The back bottom and top halves of the house are almost in ruins. This actually adds a level of interest to the visit. In the second incarnation of the home, it was used as a hospital run by nuns, so wandering through the house you can see all the layers of history associated with it. I loved that I could open just about any door and peak inside, but was disappointed that the third story is off limits. My favourite part of the house was the huge second story porch. I can just imagine sitting up there with binoculars and watching steamboats go up and down the Yukon River.

A notable resident of this home was the Honourable Martha Black, Canada’s second female Member of Parliament (MP) who took on the mantle after her husband died in office. Mrs. Black came over the Chilkoot Pass with her brother and is one of the most famous women associated with the golden age of the Klondike.

the Commissioner's Residence, all decked out for the tea on Saturday afternoon

the Commissioner’s Residence, all decked out for the tea on Saturday afternoon

Entrance

Entrance

study

study

drawing room

drawing room

parlour

parlour

I fell in love with this chair

I fell in love with this chair

interesting wallpaper pattern on the ceiling

interesting wallpaper pattern on the ceiling

dining room

dining room

dining room

dining room

sideboard in the dining room

sideboard in the dining room

lamp in the dining room

lamp in the dining room

servants' stairs

servants’ stairs

kitchen

kitchen

this was a makeshift confessional for the nuns who turned the top of the house into a hospital

this was a makeshift confessional for the nuns who turned the top of the house into a hospital

bathroom (hospital era)

bathroom (hospital era)

there are several fuse panels like these throughout the house

there are several fuse panels like these throughout the house

original wallpaper discovered after paneling was taken down

original wallpaper discovered after paneling was taken down

pictures of a fire and water damage that gutted the house in the early 1900's

pictures of a fire and water damage that gutted the house in the early 1900’s

view of the Yukon River from the upstairs porch

view of the Yukon River from the upstairs porch

wicker furniture on the upstairs porch

wicker furniture on the upstairs porch

door detail

door detail

overlooking the grounds

overlooking the grounds

second story porch

second story porch

water damage in an upstairs room

water damage in an upstairs room

water damage in an upstairs room

water damage in an upstairs room

rear exterior

rear exterior

CIMG0102

CIMG0104

CIMG0105

rear exterior

rear exterior

door going nowhere...

door going nowhere…

window details

window details

Thus ended by mostly free day and off to work I went. I still have several attractions to visit!

Pierre Berton Home and the Robert Service Cabin

After touring the Jack London cabin, I ambled a block down 8th Avenue, plunked myself down on the boardwalk in the sun, and enjoyed my picnic of a sandwich, apple, and iced tea. I made some notes about London and contentedly waited the half hour or so before the start of the 1:30 Robert Service program. It had rained, hard, during the London presentation and more dark clouds were rolling in, so I savoured the brief moment of sunshine.

Lunch finished, I took some discrete shots of the Berton home. Pierre Berton is Canada’s best known writer of Canadian history, with his most famous books being Klondike and The Last Spike. He spent some of his childhood years in Dawson and had that home opened up and turned into accommodation for Dawson’s writer in residence. The unassuming green and white structure can be seen across from the Robert Service cabin and one block from the Jack London cabin, but there is nothing to visit.

Robert Service is known as ‘The Bard of the Yukon.’ A Scottish banker of English origin who came to Canada to be a cowboy and retired in the south of France a millionaire poet, he had an incredibly colourful life. While his best known poems, such as ‘The Shooting of Dan McGrew’ and ‘The Cremation of Sam McGee’, are about the Klondike gold rush, Service did not come to the north until a full decade past the rush.

After being transferred to the CIBC bank in Dawson, he quit and became a full-time writer. He spent some time living in a cozy log cabin on 8th Avenue. The cabin is just as it was back then and in the same location, and it is only the roof and birch steps which are not original. Or so our interpreter claims. 🙂

The program lasts an hour and is a mixture of fanciful retelling of Service’s life mixed in with a recital of his poetry. Our interpreter was perfect for the job. He was funny, obviously knew his stuff, and delights in it. This attraction is well worth the admission cost and makes for a fun afternoon.

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Robert Service cabin

Robert Service cabin

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not quite what I expected; very pretty and homey!

not quite what I expected; very pretty and homey!

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birch twig steps

birch twig steps

sod roof

sod roof

path leading to 9th Ave trail

path leading to 9th Ave trail

Service's desk (or a replica thereof)

Service’s desk (or a replica thereof)

our Parks Canada interpreter who knew the poems by heart

our Parks Canada interpreter who knew the poems by heart

This was written by Service on a piece of wall paper

This was written by Service on a piece of wall paper

the Pierre Berton home, now used as private accommodation for the writer in residence

the Pierre Berton home, now used as private accommodation for the writer in residence

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Here’s my favourite Robert Service poem, which could have been written for me if you take the word ‘man’ as meaning ‘people of both genders. 🙂

There’s a race of men that don’t fit in,
A race that can’t stay still;
So they break the hearts of kith and kin,
And they roam the world at will.
They range the field and they rove the flood,
And they climb the mountain’s crest;
Theirs is the curse of the gypsy blood,
And they don’t know how to rest.

If they just went straight they might go far;
They are strong and brave and true;
But they’re always tired of the things that are,
And they want the strange and new.
They say: “Could I find my proper groove,
What a deep mark I would make!”
So they chop and change, and each fresh move
Is only a fresh mistake.

And each forgets, as he strips and runs
With a brilliant, fitful pace,
It’s the steady, quiet, plodding ones
Who win in the lifelong race.
And each forgets that his youth has fled,
Forgets that his prime is past,
Till he stands one day, with a hope that’s dead,
In the glare of the truth at last.

He has failed, he has failed; he has missed his chance;
He has just done things by half.
Life’s been a jolly good joke on him,
And now is the time to laugh.
Ha, ha! He is one of the Legion Lost;
He was never meant to win;
He’s a rolling stone, and it’s bred in the bone;
He’s a man who won’t fit in.