July 11, 2009 by Rae

Weekend in the ‘Big City’

WOW. My cousin lives about 40km from Whitehorse at the end of a well-graded dirt road. She can see a neighbour on one side of her house, but otherwise she is well set in trees as far as the eye can see. That’s not what I’m ‘wowing’ about but rather the fact that she is fully ‘on the grid’, with electricity, phone, and high speed cable internet. I lived an equivalent distance from Gatineau in a much less remote area and I was stuck on 28kbs dial up internet! There is also cell service out here!

The drive from Dawson was quite easy as I had some company.

Thursday evening, I noticed two young guys trying to hitch a ride to Whitehorse in the first pouring rain we’ve had in weeks. They eventually came into Bonanza dripping wet and were quickly adopted by the manager who rented them a trailer for a cheap rate for the night so they wouldn’t have to set up their tent and take it down wet in the morning. This enabled me to get to know them a tad and to see that they were clean and respectable English blokes with gas money who would have been happy to take a bus had there been a bus. There is NO bus service between Dawson and Whitehorse! I felt bad for them, but was committed to enjoying a solo drive. Plus, I doubted I could fit all my gear and theirs in the car.

Friday, I saw them in front of the entrance at 8:30. I had errands to run in town and as I did them, I decided that if the ‘boys’ were still there when I went back past Bonanza I would take them no matter how much ‘scrunching’ was involved. I remembered what it was like to have to rely on hitching to get around and that I still had many rides to ‘pay forward.’

They were still there at 9:30 and had been there since 5:30, hoping to get to Whitehorse for 2 to catch the bus to Edmonton since the next one wouldn’t be for another three days. I pulled up to them, told them they were pathetic ( 😀 ) and to get in. We somehow managed to stuff everything and everyone into my small three-door hatchback and took off to waves and clapping.

They turned out to be fantastic company, regaling me with tales of their sixteen day canoe trip up the Yukon River. We also compared the ‘wilderness’ experience in Britain vs. that in Canada and my tales of hiking and hitching through Scotland made them decide that their next holiday was going to be in the northern part of their island. They had never been to Scotland! So many people explore the world but forget to check out the wonders of their own country…

We stopped for lunch at the very decent Gold Panner restaurant in Carmacks, where we all tucked into ‘real’ chicken sandwiches and fresh salad. My companions paid for my meal.

We were making decent time into Whitehorse when we hit some construction that stopped us for almost a half hour. I had thought to get to my cousin’s by 4PM, but by this point, my arrival was going to be closer to 5. Thankfully, we were in cellphone range by this point and I was able to call.

I was very impressed that my companions knew exactly where they wanted to be dropped off in Whitehorse, with no driving around in circles. They gave me some money; combined with lunch they paid for the gas to come down here. All hitchhikers should be so responsible. 🙂

Whitehorse was overwhelming after a month in Dawson! There are a lot of ‘pray and close your eyes’ left turns here and the traffic was impressive. I was glad to get back onto the Alaska highway and eventually into the ‘bush.’

This morning, I went into town fairly early to complete my shopping for the trip. I managed to do so in only two stops, Coast Mountain Sports for trekking pants and Walmart for everything else, which delighted me to no end since shopping exhausts me. I had quite a varied list of things to find and circled the store and various departments several times to find some items. The toughest to find were Duck tape and gloves. While looking through the Ziploc bags, I found a roll of Duck tape behind a box of baggies! As for gloves, they were the only thing left on my list as I headed to the cash, disappointed that there is no ‘off-season’ stuff in the clothing department when I had a flash of genius. I’d need the gloves for climbing the pass, so they’d have to be thougher than regular winter gloves. So, I detoured over to the hardware aisle and found good, warm pair of work gloves that will be perfect!

My shopping done, I called the number the tour group had given me to make sure that my guide knows where I’m staying and how to reach me. I didn’t talk to him, but was able to give the information to someone else who confirmed our 7PM meeting tomorrow (but who did not know where it is being held) and that, yes, we’re leaving Monday morning!

I’m now off to properly pack my pack and hope that there’s enough place left for the communal gear I’m supposed to carry. 🙂 And, good news, according to the Chilkoot information board at the corner of the Alaska and Klondike highways, the pass is open. 🙂

July 10, 2009 by Rae

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

I will be leaving for Whitehorse within the next couple of hours. Monday is the big day when I meet up with the tour group and head for Skagway. I can’t wait!!!

My assumption is that I will not have access to the ‘net in Whitehorse. So, my next post might not be for another two weeks.

(Packing sucks; I’d forgotten what it’s like to not have all my personal effects with me at all times! 😀 )

July 5, 2009 by Rae

Larger Than Life

Yesterday afternoon, I made plans with a friend to hike up the Midnight Dome. We thought the hike would take two to three hours, but became emboldened the higher we went and ended up taking the incredibly long, hard, and dangerous route that involved some mountain climbing. Departure was 6PM and we made it back to my car at MIDNIGHT!!!

Being the idiot with lack of foresight that I am, I didn’t bring my camera, figuring that, heh, I’ve been to the top of the Dome before. AUGH!!! My friend had her camera, so hopefully I’ll be able to snag some pics from her. If that’s the case, I’ll publish an update to this post.

So, the first part of the hike was easy, one I’ve done several times before; Ninth Ave trail to the Lookout. From there, we proceeded to the Slide, which is where things became ‘fun’ (depending on your definition of fun. We had a jolly good time. 😀 ).

Crossing the Slide first meant picking our way across a huge field of loose boulders that took out a part of the trail. My friend took point and we would periodically stop to reassess our position and make sure we were still heading for the proper trail. We finally made it across and eventually came to a sign that said “Alternate route (straight up), original route with slide area (ahead). My friend decided she wanted to do the ‘original’ and I was just glad to get some real hiking under my belt, the kind that is foolish to do on your own.

We picked our way across the trail, which was very narrow and loose in parts, and reached the first of what turned out to be two slides. Imagine a wall of dirt that is practically at 90 degrees with just a few solid foot and hand holds lost among loose rock forming a very narrow ledge across. My friend got across very quickly and I ventured out there. Halfway, I ran out of obvious holds and my acrophobia started to take over. I was advised to go up and around, but there was no way I was going up; it would just mean a longer fall! I don’t know how long I clung to the cliff purposely sending rocks down until I got to a solid layer. I then took a leap of faith and before long found myself back on solid ground. I felt very accomplished, but that was not fun and I won’t pretend it was. We agreed that it was foolish. At the same time, though, I was glad to have had such an experience since it taught me that I am master of my acrophobia and not vice versa.

Not long after, we noticed people up on a point of land above us waving. My friend joked: “I wonder if they came this way or if they’re wondering what the heck we’re doing here!” When we came to another slide area, almost as bad as the first, we were glad to have witnesses who could quickly report our demise if necessary. 🙂 We made it across that second slide and continued picking our way along until we reached the point of land where the group was resting. We gave them a proper warning about going the way we came and also got advice on the correct route to the summit.

The rest of the way up sucked. 🙂 It was just a very steep, never ending trek up one mountain, across a ridge, and up a second to the top of the Dome. Thankfully, all the reading I’ve been doing about the Chilkoot made the pessimist in me expect a false summit when the trail leveled off, so I wasn’t shocked when we started to climb back up. 🙂 I am grateful for this climb, though, because it was the longest I’ve gone without reaching any bit of flat, allowing me to discover that my boots and socks are capable of giving me blisters (on my heels). I didn’t develop any there (just hot spots), but I now know that a blister kit won’t be excess weight on the Chilkoot!

Reaching the summit was very satisfying. 🙂 We had a snack, a conversation, and a rest, then we headed back down the road. We would have been happy to hitch a ride, but no one was out and about that late in the day. It was midnight when we got back to the car and I took a few extra minutes to drop her off at the pub. I would have loved to go in for a pint and a dram, but I needed to be up at 6:30 today!!!

Now that I know that I am in good enough shape for the Chilkoot, I am going to seriously ease off the training. We leave for Skagway a week from tomorrow (!!!) and I don’t want to risk injuring myself. Moreover, I am absolutely exhausted so it will be good for me to rest a bit beforehand. Work is keeping me limber enough. 🙂

July 4, 2009 by Rae

The Dawson City Thrift Store

Today, my manager suggested I check out the Dawson City thrift store at St. Paul’s church. The first Saturday of the month (2pm to 5pm), they have an ‘all you can stuff in a grocery bag for 5$’ sale.

: St Paul’s church, Dawson City

I scooped up quite a few skirts and some blouses, several not being wearable right now but which I will be glad to have if I end up with an office job in Campbell River this winter. I also found a fleece jacket for the Chilkoot trip. I had not bought one at MEC back in Vancouver because I have a fairly good one, albeit with a temperamental zipper. I decided that if I found a cheap replacement, I would get one, but otherwise I would endure with the jacket I have even if it clashes with the rest of the clothing I’m taking on the trek. The jacket I found this afternoon is in perfect condition, is my size and is of a colour (olive-ish) that matches or complements the rest of my Chilkoot gear! Sweet!!! I also picked up several books. My bag was bursting at the seams, but I didn’t get a sarcastic comment from the cashier, so I don’t think I was excessive. 😀

Then, I checked out the Saturday market on Front Street and bought a mountain (okay, a pound) of basil from my manager’s husband before going to the general store where I found mozzarella on mega sale. Looks like I’m having pizza again for dinner. 😀 I am so excited to have so much sweet-smelling basil in the house! Whatever I can’t eat in the next few days will get frozen and enjoyed in the next few weeks. Yum!

June 21, 2009 by Rae

Into the Tundra

This post is a bit out of order as I have two other outings to write up, but this was the most exciting. 🙂 The internet has been misbehaving (a territory-wide issue), hence why I’m behind in my posting. Believe me, a lot has been going on and I’m making the most of my nightless summer in Dawson City!

Today is the solstice, the longest day of the year. Up here, the sun sets for just a short moment; it is the night where we come as close to 24 hours of daylight as possible. True 24 hour daylight is found further north, past the Arctic Circle.

Last year, I set as a goal that I would spend this solstice on the Dempster Highway at the Arctic Circle. I didn’t think it was a realistic goal, but it motivated me to at least be north of 60 by June 21st.

Sunday is a short work day for me, 7AM to 9AM, so I decided that a day trip onto the Dempster was in order. I drove 100km up the highway to Two Moose Lake and celebrated the solstice a ‘few’ hours early (I have to get up at 6 tomorrow!) at the southern limit of the tundra, 300km shy of the Arctic Circle. Wow! 😀

My original plan for the day was to just go hiking in Tombstone Territorial Park, but my manager told me to go 30km further north to Two Moose Lake so I could see the tundra. Great advice! I drove straight to the Lake, then did my planned hike on the Grizzly Creek Trail.

The Dempster has a reputation for being a very rough road, but the 100km I drove were easy. There were perhaps two sections with really bad potholes, but, otherwise, it was very smooth going on a road that was more dirt than gravel. My average speed was 70kph, but my return was more at 80 and 90kph since I knew what to expect. If the road is like that all the way to Inuvik, I am not worried about taking Miranda on it. I was disappointed that the first 30km or so are incredibly boring and that there are far too few turnoffs once you start to hit the incredible views! Small quibbles. 🙂

I only drove one seventh of the Dempster and was already struck by the sheer isolation of the land I was driving through. I saw a homestead or two that were obviously self-sufficient, but, otherwise, there is nothing but mountains and tundra as far as the eye can see. It was land a person could disappear in.

The Milepost guide has a section about the Dempster and includes the following helpful information about Two Moose Lake:

Moose can be seen at twilight.

What about the season when there is no twilight?! 😀

Even though I wanted to keep going after the lake, I knew I had a long drive home and an even longer hike planned, so I turned around and headed back into Tombstone Park. I stopped at the campground and information centre to get the latest trail report and to find out if there had been recent bear sightings on the trail (nope).

The day had dawned very grey with heavy clouds and they let loose during the time I was the information centre. By the time I reached the Grizzly Creek trailhead, the sun was out in full force. I always have ‘luck’ with the weather the day I decide to climb a mountain. Hopefully, that streak will hold up with the Chilkoot!

The trail leads to a backcountry campground, but my goal was the observation deck, about halfway. I hadn’t done any reading on the trail, so I didn’t know what to expect and was prepared for anything. My pack had everything I needed to take care of myself if ‘anything’ happened in the bush. I set off at 2PM with an ETA back at the car of 4 or 5 based on the little information the Milepost gave me.

The trail starts off gently, meandering through thick forest and lush vegetation, following the eponymous Grizzly Creek. The going is a bit treacherous as the trail is composed almost entirely of exposed tree branches, which are very slippery. The path slowly and sneakily starts to climb until you reach a staircase. From there, the slope is obvious and it’s a hard haul to the summit, with a patch of rock scrambling. Without exaggeration, the bit leading from the stairs to the top of the rocky area could be described in the same way as the trail from Sheep Camp over of the Chilkoot Pass is described in books, only in extreme miniature.

What impressed me the most was how the trail takes you up above the treeline to fantastic views of the valley below. Standing up at the summit was very humbling; I felt very small and insignificant, but, ironically enough, very much part of the world around me.

The hike down was much harder, jarring my poor knees. I would have twisted my ankles in a couple of spots had I not been wearing proper hiking boots with high tops. But what great practise this was for my next backcountry hike!

At the trailhead, there is a box with forms for ‘voluntary self-registration.’ The purpose is to find out how many people go into the park and for what reason so that the Yukon government can best manage the land. I filled in some of the info, such as where I was going and how long I planned to be there, but did not fill out the personal information as I am growing a bit paranoid in my older age ( 🙂 ). Upon returning to the trailhead, there is a second form to complete, which asks if there were changes made to the itinerary or length of journey. One of the last questions is “Did you encounter any wildlife?” I replied “Yes, mosquitoes.” Next question was “Why do you think this encounter occurred?” To which I replied “I didn’t wear bug spray.” I’m such a smart ass. 😀

I was back at the car by 4, where I inhaled a snack of yoghurt and a granola bar before heading back home, about an hour and a half away. I am very amused by the fact that I had to stop halfway and take a short nap! I haven’t had a real solid night’s sleep in weeks and have been surviving on catnaps, which explains my exhaustion. 🙂

What a fantastic day it was! I am so thrilled that I got a ‘taste’ of the Dempster this year; it will tide me over until next year, when I will finally go to Inuvik.