Finnigan’s Point to Canyon City

The rest of the first day of hiking was quite easy and we reached Canyon City mid-afternoon, covering a total distance of about 12km (7.5mi). This was my favourite campground, with private sites along the Taiya River. Camp routine hadn’t set in yet, but was starting. After setting up our tents, we all stripped down to wash off the day’s grime while our guides boiled hot water for afternoon drinks.

We had a pleasant afternoon at Canyon City and after dinner we hiked a few more klicks (without our packs!) to the site of the gold rush era Canyon City to see a few artifacts. This involved crossing a suspension bridge, something that I can now do without any fear or hesitation whatsoever. How far I’ve come since last September!

During each hiking segment we would take one 'packs off break.' This afternoon, the weather was tropical, so many of us dipped our head coverings in this glacial water!

During each hiking segment we would take one ‘packs off break.’ This afternoon, the weather was tropical, so many of us dipped our head coverings in this glacial water!

Our first taste of alpine-like geography, but it didn't last long and we were soon back in rain forest.

Our first taste of alpine-like geography, but it didn’t last long and we were soon back in rain forest.

A cabin built by Canadian inmates in the late 60's and 70's; most campgrounds had one of these. The inmates were responsible for creating most of the modern trail and a lot of its current infrastructure.

A cabin built by Canadian inmates in the late 60’s and 70’s; most campgrounds had one of these. The inmates were responsible for creating most of the modern trail and a lot of its current infrastructure.

The bedroom.

The bedroom.

The bathroom.

The bathroom.

The living room (in the cabin).

The living room (in the cabin).

All but one of the campgrounds now has these bear-proof lockers so hikers no longer have to swing their food bags over high poles.

All but one of the campgrounds now has these bear-proof lockers so hikers no longer have to swing their food bags over high poles.

Mark and Victor making our first dinner. They were good cooks! Here, they're making creamy garlic pasta with fresh bell peppers and broccoli.

Mark and Victor making our first dinner. They were good cooks! Here, they’re making creamy garlic pasta with fresh bell peppers and broccoli.

Composting outhouses, hence why they're up high.

Composting outhouses, hence why they’re up high.

Crossing a very wobbly suspension bridge while holding on to a mug of tea in one hand and taking a picture with the other. How far I've come acrophobia-wise in a year, LOL!

Crossing a very wobbly suspension bridge while holding on to a mug of tea in one hand and taking a picture with the other. How far I’ve come acrophobia-wise in a year, LOL!

This stove would have been in a restaurant at Canyon City during the gold rush. A typical menu was bread, beans, and bacon.

This stove would have been in a restaurant at Canyon City during the gold rush. A typical menu was bread, beans, and bacon.

close up of a baking pan (so neat that such details survive!)

close up of a baking pan (so neat that such details survive!)

This boiler operated an aerial tramway from Canyon City to an area past the pass called the Stone Crib. Goods could be transported easily over the pass using this system that was put out of use when the White Pass rail road was constructed. The cost of using the air tram was competitive to that of using packers to get over the pass on foot. (Oh, and I was having fun with the sepia setting on the camera!)

This boiler operated an aerial tramway from Canyon City to an area past the pass called the Stone Crib. Goods could be transported easily over the pass using this system that was put out of use when the White Pass rail road was constructed. The cost of using the air tram was competitive to that of using packers to get over the pass on foot. (Oh, and I was having fun with the sepia setting on the camera!)

Chilkoot Trailhead to Finnigan’s Point

Last post left us at the trailhead in Dyea. Let’s pause for a bit and talk about who ‘we’ are. ‘We’ are a group of seven, five guests and two guides, Mark and Victor, from Sea to Sky Expeditions, based in Delta, BC (near Vancouver). There are only a handful of outfitters with permits for the Chilkoot Pass and I picked Sea to Sky for two reasons:

1) They are the only outfitters who start in Whitehorse and return guests to Whitehorse. All others start in Skagway and return to Skagway;

2) Their itinerary provides an extra night on the trail so the trip is less rushed.

I was extremely pleased with my experience with Sea to Sky and look forward to taking another trip with them in the future!

Back to Dyea:

Our guides made sure we started off on the right foot by feeding us a fabulous breakfast of fresh blueberries topped with vanilla yoghurt as well as muffins. Hot drinks were up to us, with hot water provided first thing each morning. When filling out our pre-trip paperwork, we had to state what sorts of hot drinks we wanted and I had asked for coffee in the morning and herbal tea in the evening so I did not have to go into caffeine withdrawal on this trip. 🙂

We set off at about 8:30, with a quick stop at the Chilkoot trailhead sign for a group photo and then the adventure finally began!

The meanest miles in history show their true colours just a few feet from the trailhead with challenging ‘Saintly Hill’ (ha!) that tests hikers even before they are warmed up. Once up that slippery mass of earth, roots, and rocks, it’s fairly easy trekking through marshland to the first campground, Finnigan’s Point, where we had lunch.

the group, minus our guide Mark who has hiked this trail at least 19 times!

the group, minus our guide Mark who has hiked this trail at least 19 times!

the summit of Saintly Hill

the summit of Saintly Hill

walking on water

walking on water

obviously not a gold rush relic :)

obviously not a gold rush relic 🙂

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typical shelter at a US Chilkoot campground (used only for eating or getting warm in bad weather, not for sleeping)

typical shelter at a US Chilkoot campground (used only for eating or getting warm in bad weather, not for sleeping)

Irene Glacier seen from Finnigan's Point

Irene Glacier seen from Finnigan’s Point

Dyea, Alaska (Chilkoot Trailhead)

Gold rushers had a choice of two land routes to the Klondike, the White Pass from Skagway and the Chilkoot Pass from Dyea. Thanks to the White Pass Railroad, Skagway has survived while Dyea has passed quietly into history. Today, there is little to see in Dyea and we arrived too late to explore the area.

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a hint of the scenery to come

a hint of the scenery to come

another hint of the scenery to come

another hint of the scenery to come

Home sweet home. There were two of us in that thing. At least, we each had our own door and covered porch. :)

Home sweet home. There were two of us in that thing. At least, we each had our own door and covered porch. 🙂

Getting water, probably my favourite 'chore' on the trail

Getting water, probably my favourite ‘chore’ on the trail

the biggest and most beautiful outhouse I've ever seen (also one of the stinkiest)

the biggest and most beautiful outhouse I’ve ever seen (also one of the stinkiest)

Fraser to Skagway on the Whitepass and Yukon Railroad

The Whitepass and Yukon Railroad spelled the end of the Chilkoot trail’s usefulness, providing an easy route into the Klondike. Today, the railroad is renowned the world over for its gorgeous vistas.

We boarded the WPYR in Fraser, British Columbia, and rode it all the way into Skagway, Alaska, 40 odd miles through some of the biggest and most beautiful country I’d seen so far.

Fraser train station right across from US customs

Fraser train station right across from US customs

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This thing weighed about 40lbs when we started and only about 30lbs when we reached Bennett. Losing all that weight was motivation to EAT. :)

This thing weighed about 40lbs when we started and only about 30lbs when we reached Bennett. Losing all that weight was motivation to EAT. 🙂

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this narrow-gauge track is unique in North America

this narrow-gauge track is unique in North America

the Whitepass trail of '98 (scary! look at how narrow it is!)

the Whitepass trail of ’98 (scary! look at how narrow it is!)

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this bridge was in use until the 60's

this bridge was in use until the 60’s

it's obviously no longer in use now

it’s obviously no longer in use now

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entering Skagway

entering Skagway