Feeling Safe

I’m still getting a lot of comments from people who think that I’m crazy to be in Mexico what with all the drug gang violence going on.

Hands up. How many of you would write off the entire country of Canada because of our recent terrorist attacks in Ottawa and Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu? How about the entire United States because of the events in Ferguson? Yes, there is bad stuff going on in Mexico right now, but it’s nowhere near where I am and I am not going to write off a whole country for events happening in a specific area.

Furthermore, I was in Surrey, B.C. in early 2009 when there was rampant drug gang shootouts in broad daylight in places I frequented. I was paralysed when I was there, afraid to leave the RV park. So I know what it feels like to be somewhere unsafe. Mazatlán just doesn’t have that vibe.

In just about all the cases of violence against tourists in Mexico over the last few years, there has been a drug connection. When there hasn’t been, it’s just an unfortunate case of random violence that happens anywhere. I lived through the biker gang wars in Quebec in the ’90s where innocents lost their lives. It was only a gut feeling that kept me from a movie theatre in Surrey at the time of a shootout in 2009. The odds of my getting mixed up in something like that in Mexico, especially in such a highly touristic area, are slim. Or, at least, no worse than in Canada and certainly much better than in the U.S.

Would I wander around Maz at night? No. Would I wander around most large Canadian and U.S. cities at night? No. The exception in all cases being if I was going somewhere specific and had my transportation lined up. Dale and I are still thinking of going to a club to listen to her friend play music one night and we’ll take a pulmonia from the panga to the club and back.

Wandering around Maz’s downtown today, I was struck by the lack of panhandlers and gang youth hanging around. I strongly suspect that the area is kept ‘clean’ because of the local economy being so dependent on the tourists. I found myself walking in circles holding my iPhone and didn’t have that gut feeling I get in the States or Canada that someone is going to try to snatch it.

After a year and a half in deep rural Saskatchewan, it is wonderful to be living so near to a large, vibrant, accessible, and clean city that I feel so comfortable exploring.

Home Is Just Missing Internet

I’m finally just about as settled as I can be in my new casa, the truck empty but for the cot, and things stowed away as neatly as possible given the storage options. My office is up and functional, including the 20″ TV I use as a monitor. I was practically chirping with happiness this morning bringing my coffee into the office to get started on my big day!

Around 9:00, I called the landlady and left a message asking her to please check with TelMex that they haven’t lost my order. I know this is Mexico and these things take time, but the contract said within five business days and we’re there, so I am going to start nagging. I did buy another 1GB (good for one week) from TelCel because the bar closes early and coming here is cutting into my work day. Plus, it’s hard to go back to work after having a beer. 🙂

I’m astounded at how well the apartment is working out for me. I do wish there was more storage in the kitchen, especially a drawer. The extra unit that was put in between the fridge and stove has one, but it smells mildewy. I Lysoled the heck out of it and will see if that helps. If so, I found a place in the Mercado that sells oil cloth and I’ll get a piece to fit the drawer. Otherwise, I’ll find a nice crock like I use at home. I would have had room for said crock and packed and unpacked it several times. 🙁

One thing that makes me laugh about the apartment is that it is essentially the same layout as my old house in the Gatineau Hills! Just put the front door on the opposite side of the living room, swap the living room with the kitchen and the bathroom with the master bedroom, and add a linen closet. I used to use the back bedroom as my office until I separated the kitchen and living room and made myself one heck of a gorgeous library, converting the old office into a den. So a lot of my movements in this house are very familiar and I’ve figured out why I often go into the bedroom when I’m aiming for the bathroom!

My only major complaint is the lack of HOT water in the kitchen. If I run the water a long time, I can get the water warm enough for dishes, but barely. If I have anything greasy, I have to heat water on the stove.

Otherwise, everything is good and I’m still convinced that this is the second best place I’ve ever lived, second only to Miranda!

I do have to wonder about Mexican windows. They have beautiful shapes, lots of arches, that perfectly match security grills. I wonder if they are bought as a set. Something ask at some point….

Visiting Mazatlán’s Centro Histórico

Before I get started about my day, I want to show off my new office space. I managed to get the legs off the table I’ve been using so I could relocate it to the back room and finally use the apartment as I intended to!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

I always imagined that my workstation would be between the two beds at this window!

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can't get them open, bars. :D

Pretty good view through the very unsafe, can’t get them open, bars. 😀

The table is working great as a desk, to my surprise. A chair is a much more pressing need and I probably won’t bother getting another surface! Tonight, I will finish the set up by adding my printer and storing supplies on the copious shelves in the closet.

Now, on to the main event! After getting up super early this morning to finish today’s work project, I met up with Dale at 9:00. We walked across the beach to get to the south dock, commonly known as the beach panga, to go visit Maz’s historical district.

The panga is a very short trip, less than five minutes. This panga is 30 pesos. The northern, or village, one is, I believe, 16 pesos for residents. Oh, and this is round trip! You pay on the Maz side. Don’t lose your ticket!

Once in Maz, you can walk about a mile to the historic district or take a pulmonía (open air taxi). Dale and I are walkers, so we did the whole day on foot. She’d been a couple of times and was a good guide.

My first impression upon landing was just how clean and well maintained everything was, not what I expected to be honest. I spotted a sushi restaurant minutes from the panga which means… I CAN WALK TO A SUSHI RESTAURANT. OMG!!!!!!

You can tell when you get to the historical district as it’s all beautiful colourful old buildings and very tight streets, not unlike New Orleans’ French Quarter. Off in the distance, I could see the bright yellow cathedral that told me that I really was in Maz!

Being a Sunday morning, it was very quiet and most businesses were closed, a nice introduction to this part of the city. Dale just had me walk up and down streets until I noticed the archeological museum, free for all on Sundays!

We went in and spent, oh, a half hour or so. It is a small museum, but has tons of history about the area and is very well laid out. I learned a lot. There are some English translations, but rudimentary Spanish will help you get more out of it. I want to go back on my own another Sunday to read through everything.

Dale then led me to the water to see part of the Malecon and to get a good view of Ice Box Hill. She then showed me the HSBC bank she was told is one of the more reliable ATMs in the city.

It was just past 11:00 by this point and I was ready for lunch since I’d had an early breakfast. Dale had had a big breakfast and wasn’t going to be particularly hungry again today, so she was happy to head to a bar/restaurant she’d been to a few times and have a beer whenever I was ready.

She directed me back to the waterfront and the little restaurant with tables on the sidewalk. We ordered beer and were given breakfast menus, LOL! I asked at what time the lunch menu started and was told it was just about that time. Minutes later, we got the lunch menus. Everything looked good and prices were reasonable. Beer was 5 pesos less than at Carmelita’s on Isla.

I looked through the offerings and Dale had mentioned at least twice by that point that she’d enjoyed the nachos there and would be interested in nibbling on some (not in a hint, hint sort of way, more of in an I was actively listening manner). That sounded good to me and even though she is sort of vegetarian, she’s off the wagon this winter and was okay with ordering nachos with chorizo (sausage) on them (as well as beans and chihuahua cheese). Our beers came with chips and salsa, so that with the nachos made a filling lunch for me and a good snack for Dale.

The bill didn’t make sense, though, 210 pesos. We were both sure the nachos were 85 pesos and that we’d been charged twice for them. My first instinct was to just swallow the 42.5 pesos each. Then I told myself that I have enough language to ask for the bill to be explained to me, dangnabit!

So I flagged down the server and said that I didn’t understand the bill because we only had one order of nachos. The server immediately agreed that there was an error and ran off to fix it, apologizing profusely, and returning with a new bill that had SORRY written on it. The new bill was just 125 pesos and I added 15 pesos for the tip, making lunch, including beer, just 70 pesos each!

We both wanted ice cream after that and started keeping our eyes peeled for helado signs when I noticed a guy at a cart serving something that looked like ice cream. I asked Dale what she thought and a Mexican couple that spoke good English explained that it was a Maz-specific hand churned fruit ice cream. They told us what the flavours were and recommended guava. That’s what I ordered and the guy asked if I only wanted guava. I asked for another flavour and that it could be a surprise. The other flavour he picked was vanilla.

Dale unintentionally got the exact same thing! We were both really impressed by how light and easy on the tongue the guava was. The vanilla was creamier and closer to real ice cream. Our small portions were exactly the right size for me and just 20 pesos. Very yum!

As we ate, Dale guided us to the very impressive cathedral, already decked out for Christmas. It was, oh, about 1:00 by this point and we weren’t quite done, so she proposed we walk a couple more blocks to the big mercado.

WOW, what an experience! This part of town was BUSY and a lot closer to my border town experiences. I was looking for a hat but the prices were higher than I was willing to pay so I gave up on that. I did find a lentil seller and bought enough for four or five meals for NINE pesos. 75 cents CAD! Dale was surprised to see me buy those and be so happy about them. She eats them, but does not cook and would have no idea what to do with them. I lived off lentils as a student and they will be a welcome protein source!

We were both pretty cooked and done by this point, so we headed back to the dock, stopping at a pharmacy so Dale could get a few things now that she had a translator. She also had me help her buy a few things in the mercado. I have apparently earned my cheese! 🙂

It was so neat to head HOME from Maz while traffic was going in the opposite direction, coming from Isla back to the city on a Sunday afternoon.

Our next trip across the bay will be on the village panga to find the Ley grocery stores. More adventures forthcoming, but, first, mucho trabajo (work) ahead for a couple of days! 🙂

My whole day to that point cost me 140 pesos. That’s the panga, lunch (with beer!), ice cream, lentils, and some hand soap for my bathroom!

Now, pictures… and more details. 🙂

Looking towards Maz.

Looking towards Maz.

One of these is Goat Island.

One of these is Goat Island.

The sea is the temple of life.

The sea is the temple of life.

You walk up this 'path' to get to the panga.

You walk up this ‘path’ to get to the panga.

Dock.

Dock.

On the panga!

On the panga!

Approaching Maz.

Approaching Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

First good glimpse of Maz.

pelicans

pelicans

Ticket, good for a round trip.

Ticket, good for a round trip.

You walk down this road until you see...

You walk down this road until you see…

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

The signs to follow to get to the historical district.

Pemex refinery station.

Pemex refinery station.

Just follow the blue line.

Just follow the blue line.

If you get loss, you're not paying attention.

If you get loss, you’re not paying attention.

Don't miss your turn!

Don’t miss your turn!

Such clean streets.

Such clean streets.

Love the building colours.

Love the building colours.

Pretty flowers.

Pretty flowers.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, 'hermosas endas'. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

So pretty the homeowners put up a sign telling us their name, ‘hermosas endas’. Not sure what endas are, but hermosa is beautiful or lovely.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

We stopped at this pharmacy on the way home.

SUSHI!

SUSHI!

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the theatre/opera house

the theatre/opera house

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it's a microfiber that breathes and doesn't wrinkle

wearing my absolute favourite dress, perfect for this weather as it’s a microfiber that breathes and doesn’t wrinkle

Plaza Machado

Plaza Machado

more sushi!

more sushi!

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

there are some accommodations here, despite the scary sidewalks

archeological museum

archeological museum

bones placed in a foetal position

bones placed in a foetal position

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giving birth

giving birth

beautiful pottery

beautiful pottery

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

I love this almost modern and cartoony style of drawing

more bones in a funerary thing

more bones in a funerary thing

alabaster

alabaster

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

scrap metal sculpture in the garden on the way to the very clean bathroom with toilet paper, paper towels, and soap!!!

PUSH

PUSH

PULL

PULL

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

one of the less scandalous paintings by a man with quite an eye for the world

remains of the old tramway system

remains of the old tramway system

beautiful

beautiful

I want to go to the art museum one day.

I want to go to the art museum one day.

on the Malecon

on the Malecon

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Ice Box Hill

Ice Box Hill

public pay phone

public pay phone

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Motorcycle ramp!

Motorcycle ramp!

at the base of Ice Box Hill

at the base of Ice Box Hill

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these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

these stairs reminded me of River Street in Savannah

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it's EVERYWHERE.

Dale and I joked that that lime green paint must have been on sale since it’s EVERYWHERE.

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Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

Grande Prairie AB to Mazatlan!

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Decaying building.

Decaying building.

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. :)

Dale insisted on taking a pic of me walking down the street, so I took one of her doing that. 🙂

reinforcement inside the derelict building

reinforcement inside the derelict building

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Yummy nachos!

Yummy nachos!

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interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

interesting graffiti inside a courtyard

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scooping out ice cream

scooping out ice cream

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

This was a very small cup. Perfect portion for me. The cream is vanilla and the pink is guava.

Maz cathedral!

Maz cathedral!

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Inside the mercado

Inside the mercado

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more sushi! :)

more sushi! 🙂

here's our ice cream guy again

here’s our ice cream guy again

towers on Ice Box Hill

towers on Ice Box Hill

back at the theatre

back at the theatre

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

nicest wheelchair ramp I have ever seen

beautiful theatre ceiling

beautiful theatre ceiling

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French's, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don't even have to look for it! :D

I was told that you cannot find mustard, much less French’s, in Maz. YES, YOU CAN and you don’t even have to look for it! 😀

A Temporary Work Station

After a day and a half of not being anywhere near halfway done a job that should have taken me a day at most, I finally conceded that I needed to get more serious about finding a temporary work station in my casita.

At first, I tried the kitchen table. It’s a round one with a pedestal base and legs that extend outward. There was no way to place my foot pedal that would allow me to sit naturally. I tried to sit with the table next to me, keyboard in my lap, feet extended. That was fine except for the crick in my neck from having to turn to see the screen!

The next setup was much better, but did not make me feel professional and therefore was not conducive to productivity. I dragged an end table into the living room from the second bedroom and set up my computer on it. I put the pedal inside the table so that it could be at a comfortable distance for my feet and sat on the couch. This was actually not horrible, but the computer screen was far away and the setup just felt messy and, again, unprofessional.

What I really needed was a set up like at the hotels I stayed at with a straight back chair and square table. And then I realised that I’d been staring out the door for more than a day at my square patio table!

I brought it in and tried to get it into the back bedroom, but the hallway was too narrow and the table legs did not come off. Dang. Next best place for it was under the window in the kitchen. I set up all my basics and success! I’ll be able to work here even though I would much prefer to be in the back room without all the distractions from the street.

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I’m glad I have all this sorted out. My best client is on holidays this month and even though I was told I’d have work, I haven’t heard from her yet and am therefore having to assume that I won’t get anything. So I’m going to let my lesser paying clients know that I can take absolutely as much as they have to give me.

So instead of six to eight hour days five to six days a week, I have to be ready to work twelve-plus hour days at least six days a week for the rest of November (provided clients have that much work for me…) to be on a good footing for December. Not a great position to be in in, especially in a foreign country, but I still think I’m better off here in that situation than I would be in an RV in SK since my expenses are now stabilized and I’ll have a pretty straightforward budget all winter, no worries about fluctuating electricity and propane costs.

Isla Apartment Pics!

Bilingual post for the sake of my family! 🙂 Article bilingue pour ma famille! 🙂

My street and the Entrance/Ma rue et l’entrée

Looking towards the ocean. Regardant vers la mer.

Looking towards the ocean. Regardant vers la mer.

My entrance. Mon entrée.

My entrance. Mon entrée.

The apartment building. Le bloc apartement.

The apartment building. Le bloc apartement.

The gate is not locked now, but will be when the other tenant moves in. I don't feel a need for that, but whatever. La clôture n'est pas barrée présentement, mais elle le sera pour l'autre locataire. Je n'en resens pas le besoin, mais en tout cas...

The gate is not locked now, but will be when the other tenant moves in. I don’t feel a need for that, but whatever. La clôture n’est pas barrée présentement, mais elle le sera pour l’autre locataire. Je n’en resens pas le besoin, mais en tout cas…

The Yard/La Cour

Front door to the neighbouring apartment (tiny studio). Entrée du l'apartement à côté (très petit studio).

Front door to the neighbouring apartment (tiny studio). Entrée du l’appartement à côté (très petit studio).

My entrance and parking spot. Mon entrée et espace de stationnement.

My entrance and parking spot. Mon entrée et espace de stationnement.

Palapa with hammock. Palapa avec hamac!

Palapa with hammock. Palapa avec hamac!

:) (See the clothesline? Voyez-vous la corde à linge?)

🙂 (See the clothesline? Voyez-vous la corde à linge?)

Washing machine. Laveuse.

Washing machine. Laveuse.

Little patio area with a table and chairs.. Aire de patio avec table et chaises.

Little patio area with a table and chairs. Aire de patio avec table et chaises.

Living Room and Kitchen/Salon et entrée

Entrance and living room area. Entrée et salon.

Entrance and living room area. Entrée et salon.

Looking to the kitchen. Not much storage, otherwise very nice with everything I need. Vers la cuisine. Il manque du rangement, mais c'est très bien et j'ai tout ce dont j'ai besoin.

Looking to the kitchen. Not much storage, otherwise very nice with everything I need. Vers la cuisine. Il manque du rangement, mais c’est très bien et j’ai tout ce dont j’ai besoin.

TV, DVD player, and stereo! Télé, lecteur DVD et stéréo!

TV, DVD player, and stereo! Télé, lecteur DVD et stéréo!

Looking to hallway. Vue vers le passage.

Looking to hallway. Vue vers le passage.


First Bedroom/Première chambre à coucher

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Bathroom (Looks More Green Than It Is!)/Salle de bain (elle n’est pas si verte!)

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Nice presentation on the towels! Belle présentation des serviettes!

Nice presentation on the towels! Belle présentation des serviettes!

HUGE shower. Douche TRÈS GRANDE!

HUGE shower. Douche TRÈS GRANDE!

Again, lacking storage. Encore, il manque du rangement.

Again, lacking storage. Encore, il manque du rangement.

Light switches are in weird places at random heights all over the apartment. Les commutateurs sont à des drôles d'endroits et différentes hauteurs dans tout l'appartement.

Light switches are in weird places at random heights all over the apartment. Les commutateurs sont à des drôles d’endroits et différentes hauteurs dans tout l’appartement.

Other Bedroom (Office)/Autre chambre (bureau)

I'll probably put the desk between the beds. Le bureau ira sûrement entre les deux lits.

I’ll probably put the desk between the beds. Le bureau ira sûrement entre les deux lits.

Same closet style. Même sorte de placard.

Same closet style. Même sorte de placard.

Both bedrooms and the living room have a fan like this. Really helps with the heat and humidity! Les deux chambres et le salon ont un ventilateur comme celui-ci. Ça aide vraiment avec la chaleur et l'humidité!

Both bedrooms and the living room have a fan like this. Really helps with the heat and humidity! Les deux chambres et le salon ont un ventilateur comme celui-ci. Ça aide vraiment avec la chaleur et l’humidité!

More Details/Autre détails

Drinking water: I have to put a five gallon bottle (provided) out on the curb with 12 pesos and it will be magically filled.

Eau potable: Je dois mettre une bouteille de cinq gallons (fournie avec l’appartement) dans l’entrée avec 12 pesos et elle sera magiquement remplie.

Garbage: I have to put my bags on out Tuesday and Thursday mornings. Do not leave it out because of dogs. (I feel right at home!)

Ordures: Je dois sortir mes sacs les mardis et jeudi matin. Ne pas laissez traîner à cause des chiens. (Comme chez moi!)

Cooking and Hot Water: With propane, just like an RV. The landlady’s husband will check on levels and have it filled with as much as I’m willing to pay for.

Cuisine et eau chaude: Avec propane, même chose qu’en VR. Le mari de la propio va vérifier les niveaux et fera le plein pour ce que je suis prête à payer.

Internet: I have been promised that an order for a DSL connection will be placed today (Friday) or Monday at the latest. In the meantime, it’s flaky cellular service or an internet café.

Internet: On m’a promis que la commande pour une connection par câble téléphonique ce fera aujourd’hui (vendredi) ou lundi au plus tard. Entre temps, c’est une connexion par cellulaire pas trop fiable ou un café internet.