Back to the Pier

This morning, I headed back to Aduana on the Progreso pier to give them the copy of my residency card. As a reminder, here is what the trip would look like if there wasn’t major construction going on on the Periférico. The red arrow points to the teeny detour I had to take the last two times I went up.

The teeny detour has ballooned into this. Thank goodness there was almost no traffic:

I finally made it to the pier entrance and presented my driver’s license and reason for being on the pier. The guy had no idea what to do with me and called his supervisor. The supervisor looked at the holograma (windshield sticker that serves as my permit) and asked for my “sello,” seal or stamp. I had no idea what he actually wanted so I pulled out the pile of paper an inch thick I have for aduana. Figuring he probably wanted the official-looking certificate I initially got at the border, I started to look for it while pointing out the paperwork I was given last time. I told him, “All that was missing last time was a copy of my new card, so I’m just dropping that off.” He gave me a big smile. “Oh! Okay.” Then, to his underling, “Just take her details and she can go.” I guess they’ve got new guys working security at the pier since last year and my first visits this year, I spent a lot less time explaining what I was planning to do. In fact, the first visit last year, the guard preempted my explanation.

I made it to the aduana office and again explained my reason for being there. The security guard got the lady whom I always deal with and she said the copies were good but I needed some more paperwork. She had me sit and then came back with three forms for me to fill out in triplicate and then she promised to be back. There’s nothing to boost one’s confidence in their level of fluency than to be given a bunch of blanks to fill in surrounded by very flowery legalese full of big words. I got it all filled out, ruing my super long name, the very long permit numbers, my extremely long address, and my terrible handwriting. But I got through it and the lady said everything looked fine… and to come back Thursday to pick up the final bit of paperwork. Gaaaaaaah.

Rather than go “straight” home, I decided to see if I could find the Chedraui supermarket all the expats rave about that has replaced the one near Costco as the “good” one. I’d exhausted all the usual sources for Heinz sweet pickle relish, hence my particular interest in going today. I vaguely remembered it might be near City Center, so when I found one in Monterreal, I figured that had to be it. It was pretty easy to get to even with the detour and it would be easy to get home, no navigation help needed.

Parking there was a nightmare. There’s only a bit of above ground parking and I don’t want to risk underground parking with Moya since the one time I did that (in Ottawa), my roof rack scraped the ceiling! I drove around in circles until a very tight (in terms of getting out — there was plenty of space on both sides) spot opened up. I’d seen some red flag guys on my many circuits so I knew I’d have help getting out again.

Soon as I stepped in, I knew I had the right store. It felt very posh and like the higher end supermarkets I’ve encountered in Europe, the US, and Canada that have islands or stations where food prep is done in the middle and products are stored all around. There were also some restaurants, including revolving sushi!

Chedraui remains my favourite of the Mexican supermarket chains and I can understand why expats love this particular store. You see, Chedraui stocks a lot of higher end and imported foods, but also has competitive prices on regular Mexican groceries. If I go somewhere like Superama or Soriana Híper, I’m almost guaranteed to walk out with good European butter, but Mexican staples are more expensive than at my neighbourhood Super Aki. At Chedraui, you get the best of both worlds. They even had the sachets of wet dog food I buy for Bonita at a regular price that is lower than I pay on offer at shops in my neighbourhood. They also had lamb, which she loves, but which few stores carry. You’re getting a treat tonight, luvvie!

I found relish without any problems, confirming that I know where to find it if a store stocks it, and, after checking the expiry date, put two bottles in my cart. I picked up a few more things, including a bottle of Pinot Grigio and a single bottle of Scottish ale that was on offer, plus some staples I’ve been meaning to pick up. The meat aisle wasn’t worth a second look although I did find some very nice prepared meatballs I’ve bought before at Superama that were less at Chedraui. Similar situation in the produce — it looked as tired and generally unappetising as at most supermarkets. I buy most of my fresh produce from the Chuburná market on the weekends, and what I can’t find there, I buy frozen. I did pick up half of a pineapple and a quarter of a watermelon as they smelled and looked very sweet and delicious.

So all told, while this was a very nice Chedraui, I don’t see any reason to go out of my way to shop there regularly as I have two others that are more convenient to me (and which have better parking), but it’s good to know where it is. Next time I can’t find a product like relish or good butter at my usual haunts, I’ll know exactly where to go.

I got in and played with Bonita a bit, then got done the work I had to do today. It was a struggle as my mind is mush from how much I’ve typed in the last five days! But it’s back to the grindstone in the morning. I just need to make a mental note to take half of Thursday off. If I have to go to the pier ever again after this, it will be too soon! 😀

Operation: Devolución – No News Is Good News?

Well, unless I missed a holiday in there somewhere, the initial 20-business-day waiting period for my INM refund has passed. I was told if I got through it without any contact by SAT, I’m in the clear and can expect my refund within a further 20 business days (end of June).

I’m no more optimistic than I was a month ago that I’m going to be getting this refund, but I’m hanging in there. I don’t feel there’s any point in going to SAT right now to ask for a status update since I’m only halfway through the 40-day window, but I will go the first week of July just to clear my mind that I did everything I could to get back the 7,518 pesos that INM “borrowed” from me.

At this time, I’m in the process of gathering all the paperwork to go to Cancún to replace my passport. I cannot believe the incredible amount of extra fees Passport Canada is tacking on beyond a reasonable $25 out of country processing fee. Add in that they’re making me go through extra hoops by making me completely reapply, including having to send in my irreplaceable birth certificate, and I’ve got a better outlet for venting my anger than the government of my host country. This whole process that could have been avoided by having an actually water resistant (not proof — I have low standards when it comes to the Canadian government and technology) plastified page is going to end up costing me, between fees and the trip, about 500CAD — the amount of the refund that I’m waiting for. 🙁

That said, I’ve got a sitter lined up for Bonita so I’m going to try to make limonada out of the passport fiasco. The plan at this point is to rent a car (Better gas mileage! Air conditioning!) so I have freedom to do some tooling around and take a few days of vacation at the end of this month. Croft, I’m planning on going to Chichen Itzá and Valladolid. If you can think of anything else between Mérida and Cancún that I need to see, speak now or forever hold your travel advice. 😉

I’m trying to remember what else I wanted to update you all on, but memories of last week have been lost to the melody of keystrokes. I took it rather easy at the end of May, but June came in like a lion and I’ve done about seven days’ worth of work in the last four.

This morning, the gardener came to do some yard cleanup and now that we’ve agreed to make this a monthly thing, we came up with a plan of attack for the weeds for him and a shopping list for me. We want to get to a point where he’s not spending a whole day working on weeds so he can do exterior cleaning, paint touchups, maintenance, etc. While he was here, I had him confirm that I have a termite infestation in the exterior kitchen door and that I should keep doing what I’m doing (ignore it so the termites don’t move to my furniture) and the answer was yes and yes. But he’ll talk to the landlady to see what she wants done as she may choose to have the house treated just in case. I hope not — termite treatment is extremely poisonous, which is why I had my landlady in Maz wait until until I moved out (her preferred choice as well) before treating the house there.

Even with the gardener here (we chat!), I finished much earlier than expected tonight and decided to dress for town and go enjoy the last few hours of Mérida en domingo, when there is always a lot of activity around Plaza Grande. I posted a video to Instagram that did not get posted here and that for some reason has no sound. 🙁 So you’ll just have to take my word for it that it was very lively!

I bought a banderilla for a quick supper. That’s what in my culture we call a “pogo” and is also known as a “corn dog,” a hot dog on a stick covered in a deep fried corn meal batter. Not a bad treat, especially since French’s mustard is readily available here, and it’s what just about everyone was eating.

For my second course, I decided it was high time I tried a marquesita, Yucatán’s unique in all of Mexico answer to the crêpe. It is a very thin dough that is rolled around a filling and becomes crispy I don’t have four hands to juggle food and a camera, so go visit this page to see a picture of what a marquesita looks like.

There were a lot of carts offering them and I went for this one that had a sign explaining the history of the marquesita and the origin of its name (mar for the ocean, the appearance of the dough, and quesita from the word queso, cheese). I also liked that I could see what the different combinations are.

Click to embiggen and make the sign legible!

I asked what is traditional and was told just with the “queso de bola” as a filling. That’s Edam Dutch cheese. It is very popular here in Yucatán and you will find it in varying degrees of quality from authentic to sad rip-off. Read your labels before buying this cheese, but when you find a good one, it’s like a treasure because it’s so much more flavourful than the fresh Mexican cheeses (which are all delicious, but sometimes you want a cheese with a smell that’ll knock your socks off — if you wore socks, that is, which you don’t since you live in the tropics, but I digress).

Here’s a closeup of the two-sided griddle, rather similar to a waffle iron.

So I had my first marquesita with just queso de bola, even though I knew that queso de bola with Nutella is very popular, and I was so happy with my choice. I got to really taste the slightly sweet dough and how it contrasted with the sharp salty cheese (browned and crisped up with the crêpe inside, then a generous pinch of it fresh added into the top opening). I can see how this treat could get very addictive if one were to go on a mission to try different fillings and combinations! I love that McCormick’s strawberry jam you can see above to the left of the Nutella and that with queso de bola will probably be my next pick. But Nutella and queso de bola has definitely got to happen some day as I can imagine the salty-sweet combo would work well.

I did a final tour of all the vendors before heading home and was very amused when a very proper looking jewellery seller made sure to out a selection of nose studs! I’m not fussy about what material my earrings are made of, but I only wear surgical steel in my nose and since I couldn’t confirm the material these studs were made of, I passed. But the encounter made me realise that I’m overdue for a change. 🙂

Tomorrow morning, I’m going to Progreso to file with Aduana the copy of my new residency card. I was hoping to have the rest of the day off after typing 28 hours in the last 72, but ha ha ha ha ha. Anyway, I’m getting time off in a few weeks!

Bonita sends a snore. She’s worn out from all the excitement of having a new two-legged friend who fawns over her. <3