Savour the Moment

Semana Santa has come around again. Isla is so busy, but, again, it’s not rowdy. It’s a family friendly atmosphere ripe for entrepreneurs. Even yours truly joined in on the action and rented out parking spots in her yard! 😀

This was the beach this past Saturday (the 19th of March):

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And this was the beach on Friday (the 25th of March):

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This is an interesting time of the year where most of the Gringos have gone home and the beach belongs to Mexican nationals. But I live here and don’t feel like an interloper. I like to steal a moment a day to soak in the atmosphere on the beach, get a treat, and do some people watching. Because I know I can retreat to my quiet, almost secluded, home, I can be revitalised rather than drained by all the energy that comes here.

After visiting the botanical gardens on Friday, Sue and I went back to my place so I could pick up my wallet, then we headed to her place via the beach in search of a BBQed chicken to split. There were lots of stands along Calle Principal, but she prefers the shorter beach route and knew that there was a chicken stand along the ATV access route near her place. $100 got us a chicken that was divided up into two containers as well as a pile of tortillas each and a mountain of grilled onions (which Sue doesn’t like, so I got them all, yum!) and some grilled jalapeños. She offered to buy me a beer, so we went and sat at a little makeshift bar overlooking the beach. I’ve been on a light diet the last few days, so I tucked into my chicken so I wouldn’t be drinking on an empty stomach.

The moment was magic, with the sunlight hitting the water and bouncing off all the coloured umbrellas. This was a moment to savour. You never know the turns your life will make, when the bitter will turn sweet or the sweet bitter.

We talked about that and watershed moments of our lives. Ten years ago, I was living a perfectly ordinary life and starting to think of marriage and children with the man I was dating. But fate happened and we went our own ways. Now, he’s married with a child and I can’t imagine myself in that situation, but I don’t feel bereft or like I’ve lost anything. It’s just one of those moments of my life where I can clearly see the road diverging between the life I chose and the life that could have been. I own my choices, I accept that I can’t do everything, and as long as I keep moving forward and bettering myself, I refuse to mourn what could have been and instead focus on what I’ve accomplished.

Sue said that she couldn’t have imagined herself here eight years ago. Me neither. And yet where was I in March of 2008? On a gorgeous beach escaping the winter for the first time in my life… And then I spent three disappointing winters in British Columbia before running out of steam and wintering in Lethbridge. I couldn’t see the way forward then, thought I was at a pause, and yet, it was the beginning of the end of yet another chapter in my life. I bought Haven, had a major accident, and many meanderings later, found myself on yet another beach thinking the good times had finally come. A year later, I was wintering in an RV in Saskatchewan. It would have been easy to see that as a setback, to fall into depression and be convinced that there was nothing ahead of me. But I kept my focus and where did I end up spending the next two winters? Right here, on Isla de la Piedra, Mexico. Every setback that eventually led me here was worth it.

Who knows where I will be next winter. Right now, I’m thinking Greece, Portugal, or northern Africa, but I know better than to set my Path in stone. I have an idea of where I’m going and where I’d like to end up, but I’m open to what the vagaries of fate have in store for me. What’s important is that I’m excited about the journey.

It’s been a decade now since the last full year where I felt trapped, where I couldn’t see a way out of the mind numbing routine and ordinariness of my life. Where I was surrounded by people who liked their lives that way, so predictable that they could accurately guess where they would be ten, twenty, even fifty years out, and who made me feel like I was broken for wanting something different. I feel like I was born in the fall of my 29th year, that this is when I started to live the life that was meant for me. Even though I’m snowbirding now rather than RVing, I still very much feel like “Rae from Travels With Miranda,” like I’m still continuing on that same Path.

Leaving Ottawa in the RV in September of 2008 was another one of those major divergent points in my life and I rather feel like I’m on the cusp of another one. I know that if I go back to Europe for the first time in nearly twenty years, a floodgate of new opportunities will open that could derail my plan to move to Mérida. I recognise that. And much as I’m excited about the move to Mérida, I’m willing to jeopardise it for this new adventure I’m considering. Because I can’t do everything, but I must do something and that something cannot be another summer at Haven. That is all I know for certain right now.

Afoot and light-hearted, I take to the open road,
Healthy, free, the world before me,
The long brown path before me, leading wherever I choose.

Henceforth I ask not good-fortune—I myself am good fortune;
Henceforth I whimper no more, postpone no more, need nothing,
Strong and content, I travel the open road.

Stone Island’s Botanical Garden

Isla de la piedra/Stone Island has a secret, one I have known about since I got here, but which I have resisted exploring. It is called Amaitlán and is a proposed planned sustainable tourist city, the first in the world. What we have right now is the botanical garden, sample cottages, and a dream. I’ve been getting bits and pieces of the Amaitlán story and what I understand is that they are developing the project as people buy vacation property that hasn’t been built yet. The proposal is for a sustainable self-contained community that recycles its water, grows its own food, and lives in harmony with nature. It’s a grand idea and one that would dramatically change this peninsula and the surrounding communities. Will it come to pass? Who knows. But there has been tons of development away from the existing botanical garden, especially in the last few months.

My riding buddy Sue suggested we go to the botanical garden today. I thought that was a good idea. It’s Semana Santa again and Isla is hopping. I’ll have more about that in another post. But I know that Mexicans are not welcome in the botanical garden at this time of year for some reason while foreigners are, so it would be a chance to escape the crowds and the music for a spell. Here is the entrance, across from the RV park (I’ve included a crude map at the end of the post). There was a security guard and I asked if we could go in. Not a problem.

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The pathway stone work is exquisite!

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There are several styles of paths, each one more beautiful than the other.

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That wall of sticks you see in the back is against the road where Daniel, our riding guide, keeps his horses, just a short ways down. I’ve been passing this place regularly without ever assuaging my curiosity about it!

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First, we toured the cactus section. So many varieties!

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I was awestruck by how meticulously landscaped the garden is, with many species well labeled. I

I loved this contrast of the coconut palms with the cacti.

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Can you see the iguana against the wall? I’m pretty sure it lives in that hole.

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Hard to believe this is our Isla.

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Sue and I liked the contrast of the orange with the green here.

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And we both thought these shriveled things look mouldy and not particularly attractive.

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So many pretty colours.

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This ramp’s incline is very subtle and wheelchair accessible.

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This agave looks like an octopus.

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Oh, look at that. It’s called octopus agave!

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I thought these were particularly striking, with their dark outline.

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So pretty.
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Such bright contrasting colours.

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The ramp leading back down gently.

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The hummingbird garden, with lots of flowers with little tubes (imagine miniature dandelions) for them to stick their beaks into. The French word for hummingbirds is identical, hence why I understood the sign. I’m not quite yet at learning bird names in Spanish. Just not a priority. 🙂

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More of those fuschia ones.

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And now some coral ones with bigger petals.

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This red fluffy thing looked like it was covered in bird feathers.

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More stonework.

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The lake.

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Waterlilies. There were a lot of tadpoles hopping about.

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One of the cottages.

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More beautiful pink petals.

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And yellow ones. These grow in a tree.

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My first sighting of bananas growing in the wild!

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The butterfly garden.

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I liked these blue flowers, a nice change from all the warm colours.

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These looked like miniature daffodils.

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Bamboo. We’re just right by where our horses are tied up, on the other side of the wall.

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I wonder if this ever blooms into something magnificent.
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So much bamboo!

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Purple things.

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White things.

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More bamboo. There’s a whole forest of it.

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Relaxation area. Bring mosquito repellent!

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I was really impressed by the bananas. Notice the pod thing hanging from the bottom of the plant.

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Everything was so lush and inviting.
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Closeup of one of those banana pod things.

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For someone who loves and needs bright colours, this place was truly a feast for the eyes.

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Red is not a favourite colour, but I could appreciate these.

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Pretty spot for  wedding!

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The cottages were open, so Sue and I went exploring. The little one had an open air bedroom upstairs.
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Off of which was a split bath, with a shower on one side…

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Sink and vanity in the middle, and toilet on the other side. Notice the coconut toilet paper holder.

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There is a kitchenette of sorts by the bed.

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View to the larger cottage from the upstairs balcony.
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Beautiful wooden stairs up.

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Downstairs lounge.

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Next to the hot tub.

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Nice hot tub!

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Not a bad place to relax!

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The larger cottage had a full kitchen.

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Cozy dining area, all downstairs.

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Bedroom upstairs, still open air.

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Desk area.

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Wonderful deck.

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Outdoor shower.

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Check out the sink!

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Indoor shower. Notice that the plumbing was worked into that gorgeous wooden beam.

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View of the lake from the balcony:

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This one had a stone staircase, but it was also beautiful, with this pattern on the landing.

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We believe these are papaya.

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Heron.

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View of the larger cottage.

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The other side of the lake.

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We circled the lake and finished at the fruit garden, opposite the cacti.

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Limes.

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Pomelos. I was amazed to see all these fruits in their natural setting!

 

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Miniature/dwarf pineapple. I asked the guard about them when I came out and he said this is as big as they grow and they are ornamental.
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There was a bunch of them growing.

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More limes.

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New building project. Forgot to ask about it. I’m facing the ocean right now, with the RV park between us.

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Mushrooms grown in the damp soil.

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And just when I thought we were done, this spiral.

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Front gate.

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And these are at the entrance:

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map

A First Time For Everything

I noticed this morning that the charge cord for my phone was fraying, needing a repair with some electrical tape, which I didn’t have. So it was time for me to finally set foot in Isla’s small hardware store.

Isla de la Piedra hardware store

I thought I’d be able to poke around and so did not do any linguistic research ahead of time… As it turns out, the store really is tiny and you have to ask for what you want at the counter. So I told the gal behind the desk, “Busco cinta électrica para reparar alambre,” which was the best I could come up with off the top of my head. Literally, “I’m looking for electrical tape to repair wiring.” I knew cinta means tape in the context of sewing (cinta de contact is velcro) and alambre means wiring in the telecom world, but I had no idea if the words applied in this particular context. Well, the gal replied with the magical “¡Claro!”, which means you’ve been understood, and pulled out two different roll sizes. Woohoo!

As it turns out, the proper term for electrical tape is “cinta de aislar,” with aislar meaning isolation or insulation. The latter makes sense in an electrical context, in that you use the tape to insulate your wires.

The roll of tape was $7, or 0.54CAD. I’m pretty sure I pay a lot more than that back home.

So that was fun. Apple, please make better charging cables.

Luck of the Irish

I attended a St. Patrick’s Day themed potluck this evening. It was funny to see how everyone managed to wear some green. I was surprised by how green used to be my absolute favourite colour and yet the only thing that I had to wear tonight that came close to that shade was my new teal dress. I was rather pleased to have an excuse to wear it for the first time. 🙂

We were quite a large group, with lots of folks leaving in the next couple of days and weeks. There was tons of great food for both dinner and dessert. Someone passed around a bottle of Jameson Irish whiskey at one point and I ended up having two shots of it. One fellow commented that I didn’t choke on it and I told him that that’s because Jameson is pretty smooth. “Smooth?!” he exclaimed. We then got into a discussion about Irish whiskey and Scotch and how I acquired the taste while traveling around Scotland nearly 20 years ago. He was pretty impressed since he thinks whiskey tastes like lighter fluid. Depends on what you’re drinking. 🙂

The party was just the right length, two hours. Plenty of time to eat and socialise, but not so long as to mean I had to duck out when the fun started since I’m working tomorrow.

I came home to find a cute little gecko curled up on my computer. I didn’t have time to grab a picture before he was scurrying off in a panic. Those little critters are like ghosts; I usually only see them fro the corner of my eye. So it’s always a treat when I get a proper sighting!

Familiarity

After work today, I needed to go to town to get something desserty for a potluck tonight as well as do a decent shop since I hadn’t done so yet this month. I decided to go check out the Soriana on Insurgentes.

I had no sooner bought my lancha ticket that it blew away in a strong gust of wind! The captain called to me to not worry about it and to just get on board. Upon disembarkation he told me to tell the ticket guy that the ticket blew away. He used a new verb that I didn’t know, so I just said to the ticket guy, “He perdido mi boleto en el viento” (I lost my ticket in the wind). He waved me away saying, “My God, I know you, go on!” That’s one lovely thing about living somewhere for any length of time, people start to know you.

But there’s another point to my telling this story. I said “he perdido.” I had dinner at Miguel’s last night and said the same thing about my old pendant to Angela when she commented on my new octopus pendant. She commented on the fact that I had a “new” verb tense and used it correctly. And today, I had a very long and involved discussion with my landlady and she also commented on my using this verb form, although I can’t remember what I said. Think about it, two people I speak with a lot both noticed in the span of less than 24 hours that I’d had a linguistic breakthrough. Fascinating!

Verbs in English are conjugated very differently than they are in Spanish. But Spanish and French verbs are conjugated similarly. So when I’m writing in Spanish, the best way for me to get verb practice, I always think about how I would say it in French and look for the equivalent verb tense in Spanish.

This new verb tense I’ve started using is called the “passé composé” in French and is in French the most common tense to use when speaking about things you did in the past. There is a more formal way called the “passé simple” that is very commonly used in Spanish and my teachers encouraged me to use that tense rather than the “passé composé.” Instead of saying “he perdido” I could have said “perdí.” Because it was drilled into me to favour the simple form, I completely forgot about the composed form that is much easier to remember. All this time I thought I didn’t have a past tense, it was actually locked away tightly in my brain! Perhaps now that I’m not having to search for so many words, my brain is able to focus on conjugations. Whatever is going on with my grey matter, I am really pleased!

From the embarcadero, I headed off to Juan Carrasco to get a bus. There was one marked “Ley del mar” waiting at a red light that I knew would take me to a block of Soriana. Perfect! So much more convenient than going to the Soriana on Rafael Buelna. Too bad it took me so long to figure that out! 🙁

The ride was long, hot, bumpy, unpleasant, and cramped. The seats on the “local” bus are so close together that I cannot sit normally in them as my femurs are longer than the space to the back of the seat in front of me. If I have a row to myself, I have to sit at a diagonal. If someone sits next to me. I have to half stand. Not the most fun way to ride across town.

We finally made it to the corner of Insurgentes and a game of Frogger later, I was in the mall. This is one of the larger Sorianas that has a food court outside (Mexican, sushi, pizza, Chinese), so I grabbed a slice of pizza before doing my shopping. As I started to wander the aisles of this Soriana, I once again regretted how much time I’ve wasted at the much smaller one on Rafael Buelna. There were so many more food products, on top of everything you could need for your home, similar to Mega, but with better prices. I did a really good shop and marveled as I piled meat, cheese, and even kale into my cart that I had $1,200 on me and wasn’t stressed about having enough money not only to pay for my groceries, but to take taxis home. Sure enough, my total was only about $800 (62CAD), and that included the $110 worth of pastries I bought for the potluck.

The lineup at checkout was interminable. The lady in front of me did a lot of justified sighing and eye rolling. I finally said to her, “I think we’re sleeping here tonight,” and she roared with laughter. The ice broken, we chatted a bit until it was finally her turn to get processed.

I was able to get a taxi right away when I came out, another improvement, and was quoted $60, but I was able to get the ride for $50. The driver did help me a lot with my mountain of bags, so I paid him the $60 and he was very grateful for that. He took me through the expected Juárez route that never fails to make me realise just how small my Mazatlán is. Most Gringos stick to the Golden Zone, Centro, and Isla de la Piedra (circled in red below), using taxis and buses to go between those areas. My Maz also includes, roughly, the area circled in blue, and I walk between it and the red zones in addition to taking public transportation. But even so, look how much more Maz there is beyond. I could have extended the blue circle a bit to the yellow line that is Mex-15, since I do shop along there the odd time I’m out with the truck. I’m always happy when I meet other Gringos who go beyond the red areas and know about the other grocery stores, the market in Juárez, and the local bus routes.

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The package guy at the embarcadero was available to help me get everything to the lancha and I was able to get everything up to the road on this side, where I got a taxi.

Upon arriving home, the driver noticed my truck and asked if it worked. I said yes, but it’s so much faster to go to Maz with public transportation (if I take a taxi both ways on the other side and walk both ways on this side, I can get groceries in an hour flat round trip provided I don’t have a long lancha wait. It would be at least an hour and a half to drive to a grocery store round trip, plus add in the time to shop!). He then asked if he could make me an offer on the truck! That is two people who have wanted to buy Moya this winter! It’s too bad that I can’t.

One of the two guys making an offer knows about the temporary import rules and told me, “Don’t worry. I will  give you a piece of the windshield with the hologram on it so you can report that your truck got totaled and you won’t be penalised for leaving it behind!” Yeah. I’m just not the kind of person who would take that sort of risk. I really don’t want to jeopardise my ability to return to Mexico with a vehicle.

But it tells me that if I bring my truck to Mérida, my favoured plan at this point, I won’t have any trouble selling it, even if just for parts or scrap. As it turns out, the nearby state of Quintana Roo is entirely a “free zone,” so I would be able to turn in my TIP and then legally dispose of my truck near the Belize border. So that opens my options considerably.

This was a really good shopping run, very smooth and efficient time-wise except for the long wait at the checkout. I look forward to starting over with this sort of education when I get to Mérida next year. 🙂