Taking the Bus in Mazatlán

Today, I took another step to becoming a Mazatleca, I took the bus! Finally!

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The water level was very high this morning!

I left home at about 7:00 and was to meet my cousin between 8:00 and 8:30 at her hotel, which gave me quite a bit of time to walk to a bus, wait for a bus, and then walk from wherever I ended up to the hotel. I was told to take the Sábalo-Centro route, which essentially goes between the Mercado Piño Suarez and the northernmost tip of Mazatlán, along the Malecón and through the Golden Zone.

It was the same distance to walk from the embarcadero to the mercado or to the Malecón at the fishermen’s monument using Gutiérrez Nájera, so I decided to go the later route, figuring it would be easier to identify a bus going towards the Golden Zone.

I’ve seen a few bus stops in Maz, but not many, and certainly not along the Malecón. It looks like a lot of people just hail them down wherever the bus can safely stop. I walked for a few minutes until I saw a bunch of people loitering around a pole and figured that that had to be a bus stop or, at least, a place where the bus could stop safely. Indeed. The driver was quite put upon to tell me the fare (10 pesos versus up to 120 to take a pulmonía!), so I was glad I didn’t have to rely on him to help me figure out where to get off.

The bus was just like any city bus, only a bit battered with torn seats. The suspension wasn’t great either! 🙂

My first point of reference in the Golden Zone was the Banamex, after which time I kept an eye out in the distance for the overhead pedestrian bridge attached to my cousin’s hotel. It was still quite far off (less than 10 minutes on foot) when a bunch of people got up, so I decided to get off with them, concerned that the bus driver might be a jerk and purposely make me miss my stop and leave me even further from the hotel.

This turned out to be a good plan because it allowed me to pass a Santander bank, which was recommended to me by a reader here (Kathe?). I’d tried before and it wouldn’t take my card, but this time I had no trouble. The fee was only about 30 pesos and, best of all, I got a few small bills!

My cousin’s room is quite deep into the hotel and I was there at 8:05 on the dot. My first Mazatlán bus trip was a success!

New Faces

A little thing I’ve been doing since I got to Isla is giving printing services to a lovely couple who are teaching English to students in the Colonia (‘slum’). It’s just a few pages a week and helps them out a bit. I got an order from them last night, printed it this morning, and took it over to their place this afternoon.

They had friends visiting who have built a house in the Colonia part of town! Gringos can’t own land in communities along the water, so the land is held in their attorney’s name and they get a 99-year free lease that allows them to do whatever they want with the property, including selling it. They have been building a house and say they have all the services, including garbage pickup and at home deliveries of bread, water, and produce. I’ll have to go out there at some point to check out their place!

Not wanting to intrude, I had planned to just be in and out, but we all got talking and I finally got worn down enough to accept a beer. 🙂 Other topics covered included geocaching, something many people have told me I should look into, and buses in Maz. I’m really tempted to try the bus to go to my cousin tomorrow as it’s a 10th of the cost of taking a pulmonía, but I’m going to be on a tight schedule so I’ll probably save that for another day.

I’m always glad to meet other Gringos who prefer to live in Mexico than in expat communities as I get a lot of information about living here cheaply. For example, I was told that I really must try the weekend chicken lady’s offerings… 😀

Dead Silence on Isla

I went to bed around midnight to the sound of loud, but not obnoxious, partying. I was so tired I didn’t even need earplugs!

Next thing I knew, it was 9:30. I can’t remember the last time I slept straight through for that many hours! I know I’ve bee feeling run down, but didn’t think I was that sleep deprived!

Isla is eerily quiet this morning. We’ve had quiet mornings, but not like this when even the roosters are sleeping in!

I’m taking today off to take care of chores, watch movies, do a puzzle, read, and go for a walk. My state contract begins on or about Tuesday next week and will keep me busy full time with decent income till I get home, so a day or two to breathe (I do have work for the weekend) is well earned.

I try not to make a big deal over an arbitrary change in numbers, but I can’t help remember where I was this day 15 years ago, at the dawn of not just a new year, not just a new century, but a new millennium.I was on the cusp of making the first major change in my life’s direction (leaving university to go to trade school), the first step to asserting the person I wanted to be rather than the person I was told I should be.

That bright young thing of 20 would have still be in utter disbelief to know of all the places she would see in the next decade and a half, much less that she would be ringing in 2015 from Mexico.

Low Key New Year’s in Mazatlán

My cousin and I were planning to go to a gala for New Year’s tonight and had our outfits all ready, but a series of events made those plans fall through. I wasn’t disappointed since a late night of boozing and drinking and dancing isn’t really my thing (no, I didn’t get old, I’ve always been boring!).

Instead, we decided to meet up at their hotel and find something to do. I suggested we head down to the Plazuela Machado and see what was what. Neither one of us was particularly keen on being out to midnight, which suited me just fine because the panga home jumps from 8 pesos to 60 after midnight! I would have overnighted at the hotel had we done the gala, but that plan didn’t make sense if we were in the Olas Altas area.

So I headed out to the hotel early this afternoon. In a bid to get some exercise and to save money, I chose to walk from the embarcadero, a distance of 7.5km. If I have time, I don’t think twice about walking up to 10km in good conditions. These were ideal, a slightly cool and overcast day and I knew that I would be safe going through the bit from the embarcadero to the malecón.

Big cruise ships today!

Big cruise ships today!

The trip took me 2 hours door to door, and that included a detour to get a pastry to munch on!

Lamps shaped like seahorses.

Lamps shaped like seahorses.

Seahorse detail in a door.

Seahorse detail in a door.

Not sure what this coliseum is going to be...

Not sure what this coliseum is going to be…

My few minutes in the Golden Zone were enough to last a lifetime. That area is not for me, YUCK! It was teeming with Gringos, filled with NOB stores, and I kept getting harassed (in English, no less) to buy stuff. It was just as bad as being in a border town! Sure the downtown bit I walked through to get to Olas Altas wasn’t as shiny and pretty and there were no big name stores, but people only spoke to me to say hi, I was left to wander in peace and quiet, and the architecture was a lot more interesting!

Welcome to the Golden Zone! Don't worry, we have McDonald's!

Welcome to the Golden Zone! Don’t worry, we have McDonald’s!

Yes, that's a fully operational Blockbuster video store! LOL!!!

Yes, that’s a fully operational Blockbuster video store! LOL!!!

From the hotel, we took a pulmonía down to Plazuela Machado, 120 pesos, non-negotiable! We walked around there a bit, but it was early so restaurants were only starting to get set up. We headed back to Olas Altas, where several restaurants were already doing brisk business.

After perusing menus, we decided to try the quiet Copa de leche restaurant, which had good variety and reasonable prices. The boy had steak with a baked potato, my cousin picked a shrimp dish, I opted for enchiladas with a mole sauce, and we split an order of beef (carne asada) tacos.

Dinner was a Copa de leche, with a lovely view of the water and comfortable chairs!

Dinner was at Copa de leche, with a lovely view of the water and comfortable chairs!

I’d never had mole sauce before and had no idea what I was getting into. Turns out that it is a savoury cocoa sauce! Yes, chocolate! The enchiladas were filled with chicken, tomatoes, and onions, and absolutely smothered in the sauce. Really, there was too much sauce. So thank goodness I also got a basket of corn tortillas to mop up every last bit! 🙂 It was crazy good and I really appreciated the sprinkle of sesame seeds over top, a flavour I have been missing. My taste buds were thrilled to try something new.

The other dishes were apparently equally satisfactory. The steak plate was particularly impressive, with a huge steak topped with mushrooms, a loaded baked potato (bacon and crema), rice, and salad. The tacos were yummy, coming with avocado and a side of refried beans and fried onions.

Total bill, for the food plus two limonadas, one soda, a coffee, and a tip, about 500 pesos, or 167 per person. My meal was only 110 pesos (85 for the food and 25 for the limonada) and the steak was the most expensive item at only 120 pesos, plus 20 for the soda.

After dinner, we headed back towards Plazuela Machado. My cousin confessed that her sandals were rubbing her the wrong way and that she needed ideally both a change of shoes and a bandaid. I didn’t know what would be open at that time of night, but thought that if anything would, it would be around the mercado area.

We headed there, enjoying all the lights at the cathedral, and found an open shoe store! She found a cute and comfortable pair of slip on shoes that matched her outfit for only 79 pesos! I asked the gal at the till if she knew of a pharmacy that would still be open and was directed to one just past the Waldo’s, which I knew was in the middle of the next block.

So that was our next stop and I learned that you have to ask at the counter for bandaids in at least some pharmacies in Mexico! The first request didn’t go so well as we were brought tensor bandages, so I found a picture of a bandaid on my phone and that brought what we needed. I would have preferred to have been able to pick as I would have selected something bigger and sturdier, but my pleas for bigger ones fell on deaf ears and my cousin said she could make do.

She then spent a couple of minutes on a stool applying several bandaids to get the coverage and adhesion she needed. It was a rather absurd situation that we found rather funny. It’s just stuff that happens. I had a hard time with sore feet when I first got here, with the sand rubbing them raw, but my feet have thankfully hardened.

From the pharmacy, we headed across the street to a juice stand. They had strawberry and banana licuados (like a smoothie) while I opted for fresh squeezed grapefruit juice. It was incredibly filling since a small had the juice of THREE grapefruits with a little pulp, but it was very refreshing and tolerably sweet. I really enjoyed it. At just 17 pesos, I think that could be a treat when I go to mercado.

We then returned to Olas Altas to sit on the wall, listen to the waves, and make plans for the next couple of days. They were thinking of heading back to my place tomorrow, but the boy has been ill and they are both exhausted. It makes more sense for them to enjoy the resort for their last full day. I will head out to the hotel first thing Friday to meet my cousin for coffee (she found a roasting house with good coffee, so I plan to come home with some!) and then they’ll be off to the airport around 10:00.

Plans made, it was time for them to head home as they were just wiped. I got them into a pulmonía (again, a non-negotiable 120 pesos) and then walked back to Plazuela Machado to soak in a little New Year’s ambiance. It was just past nine and the partying was starting, with lots of loud music and full restaurants. Really not my scene. I was surprised that there weren’t more vendors.

I flagged down a pulmonía ready to argue that I wasn’t going to pay more than 60 pesos to get to the embarcadero and almost fainted when the driver said 40! Wow!!! I’m pretty sure that’s my cheapest ride ever from Plazuela Machado!

A panga was leaving the dock as I arrived at the embarcadero. The pilot saw me and redocked while I bought my ticket.

It was a quick ride over and then I was on Isla, which was thrumming with activity, with lots of music and some fireworks. Many ‘Feliz año’s were exchanged on my 10-minute walk home, making me glad that I took the time to Google how to say ‘happy new year’ in Spanish.

The neighbours across the street are having a loud party, so ear plugs will be in order for tonight. I just honestly don’t have a desire to be out partying, preferring small quiet gatherings.

Happy new year to all my lovely readers!

To Market, To Market

I didn’t want to keep stocked with too many groceries this week, not certain of my cousin’s plans and also being tight budgeted because of pulmonía expenses and the whole bank fiasco.

But after two mornings of crackers and almond butter for breakfast, it was beyond time to get some tortillas! And if I was going all the way ‘downtown’, I might as well get a few things to tide me over the next few days. In other words, I needed cheese. If I have cheese, my pantry’s full. 🙂

So my first stop was the other little grocer, Felipe, I think. He stocks Chihuahua cheese, very similar to a mild white cheddar or Monterrey Jack, which melts beautifully. 24 pesos for 200g (3 pesos CHEAPER than Ley!).

Next stop was the City Deli for two potatoes and a carrot. 9 pesos. (I wish the veggie guy wasn’t so hard to catch!)

Then, the tortillería. 5 pesos.

Finally, the butcher shop for a large chicken breast. 20 pesos.

Total spent, 58 pesos (4.57CAD). I can’t buy that amount of chicken OR cheese for that price in Canada!

Now, to figure out what I’m doing with the chicken tonight (probably my usual…). It’ll be nice to have the leftovers for breakfast tomorrow!