Hot!

It’s been really warm for the last week or so, even through the night, and the house hasn’t been cooling off at all. Except for the few days when I first arrived, house has always been a cool oasis, so it’s been pretty shocking to come in the last few days and have the house feel like a furnace.

Last night, I woke up gasping around 11:30 and had to not only turn on the overhead fan, but also the very large boxed floor fan that I have thus far not felt a need for. Unfortunately, noise and light here made opening a window not an option. But with the fans on, I was afterwards able to sleep well.

I’ve always done well in cold weather, but since my weight loss, I’m not handling cold at all and much more tolerant of heat.

So all that to say BEST EARLY SPRING EVER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pozole

My friend S introduced me to pozole today, a traditional Mexican pork stew made with hominy. She said she gets it from a lady here on Isla who makes it every Wednesday. I’ve been curious about it, but the last two Wednesdays since I heard about it didn’t work out schedule-wise for going on a pozole exploration expedition.

Here’s the stew as I received it:

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I don’t know what I was expecting, but what I got really wasn’t it. I think I was expecting something really spicy. Instead, you get a really savoury and meaty broth, with tender pork and the chewy bits of corn that is really a blank canvas for toppings. I’d never had hominy before (other than as grits) and I have to say that it was really satisfying and more filling than regular corn.

S said that when she buys it, she gets a bag of lettuce and onions and another of hot sauce to mix in. You can add in lots of other things like cilantro, cabbage, crema, and/or avocado. I was too famished after my walk to mess with it, so I just cubed up a whole avocado and added it over the hot stew, then squeezed in the juice of a lime. I think a little onion was missing, but otherwise this was incredibly satisfying and nourishing. The flavours were subtle and the pork very tender. The avocado broke down into the sauce and made it very creamy while the lime added a note of brightness.

I have enough for one more meal and I’m pretty sure I am going to hunt down the pozole lady on Wednesday. S says it’s 50 peso for a container of the stew and she usually gets four meals out of it!

A Long Beach Walk

S, one of my riding buddies, suggested we do a long beach walk today. We were originally going to make a full day of it by going to the Estrella del mar golf course (about 20 miles/32KM round trip), but she’s leaving this week and didn’t have time. Instead, she suggested we do the four hour round trip walk to ‘the washrooms.’ I’d heard about them as being the turnoff point for people driving the beach to get to town, but hadn’t seen them so I figured that was a good destination. Yes, walking to the bathrooms in the middle of nowhere. Do I know how to have fun or what?!

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These helicopters are scouting for tuna!

Very low in the sky.

Very low in the sky.

Very, very low!

Very, very low!

We took off barefoot at 10:30, with the tide starting to come in and just walked and gabbed and walked and gabbed till we got to the washrooms. They were open and I really needed to pee, so I decided to check them out. To my immense surprise, they were clean (albeit grungy), with paper, soap, water, and brand new seats! 😀

The waves were carving out the beach.

The waves were carving out the beach.

Bathroom oasis in the distance.

Bathroom oasis in the distance.

The walk back seemed quicker and the waves were really coming in fast and furious, nearly knocking us off our feet a few times. On the way in we had met a Mexican friend of S who explained that the waves get like this every year around this time and that it has something to do with the rotation of the earth. It happens between the end of March and the beginning of June and announces the start of the rainy season, although there’s always a few weeks reprieve before that happens. Fascinating! I love meeting people who have lived in a place all their lives and know the climate so well. So if what he said is true, I might have rain before I leave…

I love this grove of short and plump coconut palms.

I love this grove of short and plump coconut palms.

A few more high tides and this one will be done.

A few more high tides and this one will be done.

When S and I got back to the populated part of the beach, we ran into our horse guide, who greeted us with a big hug. We told him about our adventure and he laughed and called us his crazy Canadian gals for walking to a bathroom of all places for no reason but exercise. A lot of the Mexicans I’ve met don’t seem to get the idea of walking for the sake of walking and I wonder if that’s a cultural thing or if I just met a cluster of people who get enough exercise in their daily life to not need to seek it out.

It was a great walk, but the bit from the beach to home on the HOT sand was very ouchy! I could have put my flip flops in a backpack, but I really didn’t feel like carrying them. My feet are much tougher than they were when I got here, though.

I came in and took a shower to wash the salt and sand from between my toes, then made lunch. Which will be the subject of my next post later today since S brought me a Mexican delicacy!

Hitting the Bank

I posted on Facebook today that I might go to town to ‘hit the bank’ and my friend L replied that I should perhaps rethink my choice of words. I’m still giggling about that. It’s rather like the time I told my boss I was gone such a long time making the daily deposit ‘because there was a hold up at the bank.’ The English language never ceases to amuse me!

I wound up giving my landlady my last 500 peso bill to get gas for my last month here and do an advance payment on the final light bill. I have a pretty light work queue for the next few days, so I decided to run to town today for cash rather than wait. I was due for a break anyway. What with emotions running high in the first part of the week, I didn’t get much work done and really paid for it Wednesday and Thursday. It was really nice to have a slow morning, start on a project, then break for a long while in Maz.

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A common sight at home, but not here on Isla! Rabbits are conejos, not cojones. You only make that mistake once.

The exchange rate is bad/good, depending on how you look at it and I was FINALLY able to make an 8,000 peso withdrawal! That’s always been just above 700CAD since I’ve been here, my daily withdrawal limit. Today, it was just $687 with the fees!

After months of saying I would do this and not doing it, I finally went into the bank to change my 500s for smaller bills. I had lots of time in a very long line to work out what I would say. This is how I handle new situations, by anticipating potential questions and answers, so that I don’t get to a teller and go ‘Uh…’ The teller was friendly and I told her, “The machine gave me a lot of 500s and my landlady doesn’t like them. Can I change them for smaller? 200s and 100s would be good.”

She understood and said that she could do that. I handed her nine 500s, she counted them, and then asked me to confirm that it was 4,500 pesos. She then counted the money out in 200s and 100s and handed me a big wad without counting it out for me the way a Canadian and US teller does. I wasn’t worried, so I stepped out of line and found a quiet corner in the bank to confirm that I had 15 of each.

Then, I went to Beach Burger for lunch and splurged on not only a limonada mineral (I find it hilarious that beer is cheaper), but also the ‘Wipe Out’ burger with BBQ sauce and avocado. It also had cheese, mustard, ketchup, onions, and pickles, in addition to Montreal steak spice, and was probably the most amazing burger I have ever had. OMG! And I forgot to say no mayo but the server remembered and told the cook for me! That’s amazing considering the fact that the hot dog lady I see every week doesn’t remember that! For some reason, I also got chips and pico de gallo with this meal, so I came out of there stuffed!

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Nowhere near sick of pico de gallo yet and a meal without it is lacking! I can even handle a little heat now without crying!

The server always insists on speaking English to me and I always insist on speaking Spanish, this way we both practice! We chatted a bit and it came out that I’m renting a house here on Isla. He told me what he pays in Centro histórico for a one-bedroom with a bathroom, a mere 2,000 pesos! I was thinking of looking for a deal like that to be in town next year, but am not feeling that adventurous even if I know I am paying a Gringo premium on my place.

I headed to the Mercado next and look what I noticed kitty corner from the cathedral?

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Main Maz post office!

Am I blind???!!! How could I have gone by there so many times and only now noticed the post office?!

I then passed Panamá’s and resisted the call of the pastries, but I happened to notice this:

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What the heck is Canadian cream?!

Before getting veggies at the Mercado, I wanted to price a final (?) dress. I’ve seen it for months, since just after Christmas. It’s of a similar style to my Christmas dresses, but has a bit more embroidery, and it’s that gorgeous orangey pink I have on my dressing room walls at home that made me fall in love with some shades of pink.

The clerk pulled it down for me and I was rather disappointed to find that it looked a little small. Then the clerk said something to me (in English) I have never in my life heard, “I think it might be a bit big on you. Maybe you try it on over your dress and see?”

Um, okay. I tried it on and the fit was good! Woohoo! She wanted 350 or 360 and I got it for 330, which I knew was a very good deal. I wouldn’t have paid more than 350, though, as I’m really starting to stretch my clothes budget! I had planned to come home with a closet full of Mexican dresses, though, so these really are planned purchases. I just think it’s time to say I’ve hit the limit. But they’re so inexpensive and high quality it’s hard to stop!

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This picture doesn’t do justice to the colour or exquisite details of this dress.

Then, veggies and a quick Ley stop for yoghurt and ham. I was hoping they’d have some of that granola I found at Mega, but nope. The only ‘no sugar’ granola was three times the cost and sweetened with agave. Sugar is sugar, people. Read the labels!

I then took the shortcut I’ve discovered to reach the panga, where there was just one other passenger besides me. It was a quick ride since we didn’t have to go to the Colonia dock.

Now, I should probably try to get a little work done…

A Great Day in Mazatlán

Even though I didn’t need to be up early today, I was wide awake at 6:00. I am absolutely exhausted, but it’s not the sleep deprived kind at all as I’ve been getting plenty of sleep. So I didn’t try to get another oouple of hours and instead read for about an hour.

I put on a load of laundry while the water heated for coffee, then I breakfasted on my leftover tacos. They were surprisingly good cold! I had planned to reheat them in a pan with cheese, but they didn’t need any work at all, besides the addition of a little avocado. 🙂

Laundry takes a while since the machine is slow to fill, so I did a little clothes mending before I left. I didn’t think to bring sewing supplies from home, but I found a very adequate little kit at Waldo’s for just 12 pesos that had everything I needed, even the right colour threads!

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

A surprisingly decent little travel sewing kit for just 12 pesos.

After finally putting the laundry on the line, I headed to town. I have a birthday coming up so my first stop was the dress shop to put in an order for a dress. 🙂 It was going to take a while since the seamstress wasn’t in yet, but I wasn’t in a hurry as I had some errands to run in the area. I paid and said I’d be back in about an hour.

I head to Panamá’s, where there was a lineup out the door and up the block for its mediocre food! I grabbed an almond croissant to go (no wait for this), went back to the Mercado to get a grapefruit juice, and found a bench in the square opposite the cathedral to have my snack. This was the first time a juice vendor asked me to confirm my order. It surprised me that it took this long since orange and grapefruit have the same last syllable.

Next, I went to the fabric/craft store as I have a craft project I want to do. I was looking for felt and completely struck out. I used Google to translate, describe what felt is, spoke to a clerk who is fluent in English, showed a picture, and still we could not figure it out. I found something else that will make do.

I then asked for ‘cinta de contact’, remembering that Velcro didn’t work last time, and the guy looked at me funny and said, “You mean Velcro?” I said yes, but that the last clerk I asked had no idea what Velcro is. He shook his head and said he knew exactly who I meant. Interesting.

He left me in the capable hands of the notions counter and I asked for black Velcro. They only had white left and I could have a whole metre or a rather wrinkled remnant a few inches long that was exactly as much as I needed for my project! Finally, I wanted ribbon and they had rolls and rolls and rolls of the stuff, but I quickly spotted exactly what I wanted and got a metre of that.

Total cost of my purchases at the craft store: 2.5 pesos. I love this country.

Then, I went to Waldo’s to pick up a few things and then I went back in search of the earring lady. There are tons other vendors in the Mercado selling 10-peso pairs of earrings, but they look really cheap and/or gaudy. She has the nicest ones and I found her again! I picked out a pair that she says is made of green quartz.

I finished my errands by getting some avocados, wandered around the Mercado a bit to continue getting my bearings in it, and figured out where I needed to catch the bus to the Golden Zone, my next stop. As it turns out, it’s on Benito Juarez, in front of Waldo’s and just outside the dress shop.

My dress was ready and the seamstress had remembered that I needed to have the straps shortened on the last dress, so she put shorter ones on this one. I tried the dress on the minute I got home and the straps on it are perfect!

My new dress. I don't like the fabric as much as it is going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

My new dress. I don’t like the fabric as much as it is a thin jersey-type material that is likely going to catch and create runs, but the pattern was the prettiest they had.

I know I already have a purple dress, but there really wasn’t much I liked today in terms of patterns and fabric weight. I wound up making a compromise with a lighter weight fabric that I wasn’t sure would drape well (thankfully, it does!). I almost went with the orangey red dress in the same fabric as my pink dress, but the clerk said to me (in English), “I really don’t think that’s the best colour for you,” so that was that. I really like the pattern (flowers) and colour of this dress and the fabric feels very light and climate-appropriate.

My business in the area done, I wanted to head to the Golden Zone. It was frankly time to get over my annoying derision for the area and get to know it a bit better.

It was incredible to stand on the curb outside the Mercado with all the crowds and traffic, not be even remotely overwhelmed, and recognize the bus I needed as it pulled up. I have just about mastered the basics of this wonderful city!

I decided to ride the bus a good long way, just to see what was what and then either walk or bus it back to the Golden Zone to get coffee and lunch. I settled in and off we went. Traffic was light and there was almost no one on the bus. We passed the Golden Zone, hit the marina, and continued on to Nuevo Mazatlán and Cerritos. The only other passenger besides me got off near the Crown Plaza Hotel and I decided I was done, too, and got off as well.

Crowne Plaza Hotel

Crowne Plaza Hotel

map

I started to head back the way I came, stopping at an Oxxo for a bottle of water. I used to carry a full 1L bottle of water with me at all times until I realised just how much weight that is. Yes, buying a small bottle of water at a convenience store is about 4x the price of the water I buy at home, but I walk a lot and my bag gets heavy! Plus, buying water throughout the day means I always get cold water. Even if I start with half a bottle of ice, I have warm water within a few hours.

I walked all the way from the Crowne Plaza Hotel to the Marina.

Another great translation -- bottom of the sign, "Only registers."

Another great translation — bottom of the sign, “Only registers.”

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it's better for my bum leg. :)

I appreciated the choice of sidewalk, choosing smooth, as it’s better for my bum leg. 🙂

I'm not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

I’m not sure what this plant is. It has very thick waxy leaves.

Looks like a new residential complex.

Looks like a new residential complex.

It's rather in the middle of nowhere.

It’s rather in the middle of nowhere.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

Mexicans use their roofs and I love how many houses use spiral staircases to access them.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There's a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

This is a big mall with expensive stores like Liverpool. There’s a Walmart across the way that I have shopped at.

A marina.

A marina.

I love the colour of the water down here.

I love the colour of the water down here.

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. :D

See, I told you yesterday that there is always a toilet nearby in Mexico. 😀

Can you imagine mooring here?

Can you imagine mooring here?

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. :)

This almost makes me wish I was a boater. 🙂

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

I was just praising the quality of the sidewalks and walkability of the area when the sidewalk just ended. Thankfully, there was more on the other side of the road!

At the Marina, I found a proper bus shelter with shade and waited for some time for a bus. A taxi pulled up and offered me a ride, which I declined politely, as I had declined all the other offers I’d been giving along my long walk. “Why not?” the driver asked me in English. I replied in Spanish, “Bus to the Mercado, 10 pesos, taxi 120 pesos!” He laughed and said in perfect English, “Yeah. Can’t argue with that! Have a great day!”

There were folks across the street waiting for a bus going in the opposite direction (no shelter) and they came running across the street to me, asking if I’d ever taken the bus before. Yes… As it turns out, the buses kept going past them. I told them to stick out their arm to as a signal to the driver. As I said this, my bus showed up, so I was able to demonstrate.

This turned out to be one of the smaller ‘local’ buses (as opposed to the ‘tourist buses’). There really wasn’t much difference in the comfort level, but this bus was only 7 pesos instead of 10! BTW, the bus drivers have change!

It really wasn’t very far to get to Rico’s from the Marina, but I was glad for the lift. I got up just after the El Cid Resort and the driver asked me where I wanted him to stop exactly. I said Rico’s and he dropped me off kitty corner from the café.

To my surprise, Rico’s upped their coffee prices significantly since the last batch I got, from 124 pesos to 147 for a pound of Veracruz! Still a great deal, though! I was happy to use their bathroom while I waited for my order, but was surprised that it was not very clean.

It was coming onto 1:00 when I left and I was ready for lunch. I wanted sushi, something I haven’t had since November 29th, but I knew better than to have my heart set on it. There are tons of sushi restaurants in Maz, but they never seem to be open when I need them to be!

I walked down the street towards Rafael Buelna, looking at my food options and doing a bit of window shopping.

See these little squares in the pavement?

See these little squares in the pavement?

Super cute tiles! This one's a cat.

Super cute tiles! This one’s a cat.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A fish. There were birds and loads of other designs.

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

A want a basin like this for the bathroom sink in my cabin!

I was nearly at Rafael Buelna when I found an open sushi place, Yoko’s! Heading south, it’s just after Panamá’s and before the Burger King on your left. The entrance is set back from the road, so it’s not evident that the place is open. I’m glad I investigated!

To my immense surprise, I was not only served in Spanish, but the menu was bilingual Japanese-Spanish with no English! I had no idea what half the Spanish words were and my Japanese was much needed and appreciated. 🙂

I ordered pretty much my usual, octopus nigiri and spicy tuna.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

A lunch to behold! Non-spicy spicy tuna and octopus nigiri.

The octopus came with a sweet and salty sauce that I was worried would mask the delicate flavour of the flesh, but there was only a small dab of it and it wound up being very good!

The tuna was not spicy in the least, but was very fresh and generously portioned. This was a 10 out of 10 sushi meal! The bill was a bit shocking, 210 pesos with the tip, a very average price for this quality of sushi meal if converted to both USD and CAD, but quite high for Mexico! Totally worth it, though!

Looking out the window, I saw the Post and Ship mail service location. This is a great service for Gringos here long-term. You get a US shipping address in Texas and every so often, your items are brought to Mexico to be picked up at this location, with all customs processes and fees done for you. I couldn’t justify the cost of the service for just six months, but I bet the ex-pats love it!

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

Lots of gringos who live here long-term have a PO box here that uses a Texas address.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

See what I saw? Burger King with HOME DELIVERY.

After lunch, I decided to go to Panamá’s for cake and coffee, something a few people have told me I need to do just once, even if I don’t eat a lot of sweets anymore. I ordered the ‘coffee and slice’ special, asking for a ‘cafe Americano’ to get real black drip coffee to which you can add milk and sugar (as per my friend’s tip). I was brought a huge multi-tiered tray on wheels from which I could pick any dessert I wanted. There was tons of choice, but I really wanted chocolate and found a slice that looked like devil’s food cake with caramel, which is exactly what it was.

The cake was really good, but I wish I’d had someone to split it with as I could have easily been satisfied with just half of the huge slab. The coffee was excellent! So now I know that I can use Panamá’s for coffee, too! I don’t know if they do take out coffee, but I always a mug with me when I’m traveling, so there’s that option.

I was quite tired by this point, so it was time to wrap up my day with a visit to the Mega supermarket that I have heard so much about. It wasn’t far from Panamá’s; one or two blocks to Rafael Buelna and then perhaps one or two blocks down.

It had a lot, but, really, I think it’s over rated. I didn’t see much there that you can’t find at Soriana and the bigger Leys and the prices were generally a little higher for everything. They did have more imported foods, though, I’ll give them that, and more English signage and staff, which explains why Gringos like them so much and think that groceries are super expensive in Mexico! But I did get a few good deals and they had hummus! Reader Sandy left a comment yesterday about Mega having hummus, so I knew I wasn’t going to leave without some!

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

The Maxi in Gatineau had a ramp like this for the people and carts.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

This is the exact brand of olive oil I buy in Assiniboia. I buy a bottle half that size and it costs me about $6. I was told olive oil is expensive in MX. BS, once again.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

A jar of Dijon like that is about $4 in Canada, again a better deal in MX.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And this is where I burst out laughing in Mega.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn't stop giggling.

And then I saw more colours and I couldn’t stop giggling.

COLOURED rice!

COLOURED rice!

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

All it is is sushi rice and colouring. Yes, I was tempted, no I did not come home with it.

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

500mL of Canadian maple syrup=OUCH pesos

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

This is the kind of jam my mother likes. I think it comes from France. The price seems similar to what I paid in Quebec.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

Huuuuuuuuumus.

That should last me a bit.

That should last me a bit.

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the 'gourmet' imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

At Mega, the expensive sweet relish is with the ‘gourmet’ imported stuff. The sweet relish of the people is with the olives and tuna. Ours not to question why..

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish -- aceituna. Aceite is vinegar and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of marinated fish. :)

Olives is a word that trips me up in Spanish — aceituna. Aceite is oil and tuna is atún so aceituna makes me think of sardines. 🙂

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

I know I just had lunch, but yum!

Now, this was a find! It's no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

Now, this was a find! It’s no sugar added granola made with ancient (high protein) grains. It will be great with yoghurt for breakfast!

I’m glad I went to Mega because now I know that I haven’t really been missing out on anything by going primarily to Ley and occasionally to Soriana. There were a few things that might make it worth popping into Mega occasionally, but going there won’t be a habit.

I’d promised myself a pulmonía for the ride home and was quoted 70 pesos. I talked him down to 65… but still paid the 70. 🙂 A panga was pulling out as I arrived, but came back to the dock for me!

The walk home from the panga was just about all the extra work I needed to do today as my bags were getting heavy. I’m cooked and beat, but what a great day off! Now, to decide if I want wine or beer!