Hunkering Down

I have somehow managed to find myself swamped with work through the weekend. Because of this and my needing to make a withdrawal at the bank, I decided not to do any overtime today and instead go to Maz after my shift ended at 2:00, then hunker down and work for the next three days.

The nearest Scotiabank to me is the one on Ejercito Mexicano, about 1.5KM from the embarcadero. I walked there and on the way noticed several stores, even hole in the wall abarrotes, that said ‘recarga TelCel aquí’ (recharge TelCel here). I’ve been meaning to put money on my phone so I can make and receive calls, but the website has been so terribly slow that I haven’t had the patience to do so. I’d never put money on the phone from a vendor before and decided to see if that’s easier than using my credit card on the website. Is it! I gave my number to the clerk, told her I wanted to add $100 to my account, and she punched it into what I assumed is a cell phone, although it looked like a big old Nokia from 10 years ago.

After about 30 seconds, her phone dinged and I got five text messages confirming that I’d added the $100, what my rates were, special promotions, etc. Super easy! That’s all I had to do because I was going to use the money for calls and texts. If I had wanted to buy bandwidth, I would have needed to send a text message to that effect.

I just checked the text messages and one of them says that my $100 got me $100 in bonus time (saldo regalo/gift balance)!!! I can use that for calls, texts, and bandwidth at full price. Wow! I remember from last year that I pretty much spent the winter making calls on only saldo regalo, but don’t remember it being that generous.

The Amigo plan (pay-as-you-go) rates are also pretty amazing. Get this, I only pay $2 per minute… to Mexico, the U.S., and Canada. I have been staring at those numbers for the last five minutes trying to figure out what I’m reading wrong. That’s 0.16CAD per minute. There has got to be a catch. I am going to have to call someone in Canada to see if this is true! Skype is free, of course, but it’s good to know that I have the phone as a backup! I just skimmed the fine print and it looks like I can use my phone in the U.S. as though I was in Mexico, which is very interesting. I will get back to this as this plan sounds like a game changer because I could keep my TelCel account active when I’m home and use my Mexican SIM when I’m in Montana!

But I digress. From the abarrotes, I crossed the street to use the Scotiabank ATM, where I was able to take out $4,800. It came out in all $500s, plus a $200 and a $100. Ouch! I much prefer withdrawing from Santander, which gives some small bills… but I don’t miss the fee! I went into the bank and asked to change the $4,5000 worth of $500s to $100s and $50s. Not a problem. The teller ended up giving me almost all $50s! I really didn’t mind, of course, but that made for a rather impressive stack of bills!

Since the big Waldo’s is just a block or two further down the road and I needed a few things for the house, it made sense to head there next. But since I was still on the Scotiabank side, I decided to have lunch first. I knew there was a Rin Rin pizza by the big Ley (where I didn’t need anything this time), but they wanted over $30 for tiny slice with a drink. Pass! I went to the Chinese place instead and had a nice lunch for $48.

Then, I climbed up and up and up and up and up and up some more to get to the pedestrian overpass to cross Ejercito Mexicano and then came all the way back down to ground level. Whew! I still prefer that to playing frogger in front of the Scotiabank!

Waldo’s had everything on my list… and a few things that’s weren’t. For those who don’t know, Waldo’s is equivalent to a higher end dollar store in Canada and the U.S., like Dollar Tree. I especially needed some plastic containers for storing leftovers and the like since the ones I bought last year weren’t in the kitchen when I arrived.

Walking back to the embarcadero, I was struck by the fact that this was my first time walking down Gutiérrez Nájera in that direction and that everything looked so different!

There was a short wait for a lancha, but I was back on Isla in a flash.

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I made a quick stop for beer ($90 for seven, so $13 each, almost half the cost of getting a beer at a restaurant!) and then it was time to get home because I was ready to drop. It’s been a busy work week! I plan to get a bit of a later start tomorrow, which will probably mean 7:00 instead of 6:00. 😀

My First Torta

This week is the way life is supposed to be when you’re not retired, I think, with enough work to fill the coffers but not completely crush your soul with tedium, and plenty of time to stop and enjoy your ‘island’ paradise.

Amazingly, every single one of my clients has me on deck this week, even a couple of one-offs that I never expected to hear from again. It’s long days, but since I’m not doing the same thing hour after hour and a lot of work can be done from my armchair, it’s not hard the way my old transcription marathons were.

After finishing my eight-hour proofing shift, I went for a long beach walk, enjoying how quiet it is before the tourists come. Then, I came home to start on some graphic design-type work when an email came in asking if anyone from proofing could do a job right that minute. I knew that this writer’s copy is very clean and it wouldn’t be super tedious, so I claimed it… and may have had a beer while working on it. That done, I did a bit of work on the other project, but since I have to work on the PC and I’d already put in nearly 10 hours, I didn’t have enough patience to do much more than lay out the work to do. But at least I got started on it and have an idea of how long the job will take.

It was then time to put my feet up for a bit and read. I’ve been reading a lot since I got back to Isla and I know that chair has something to do with it! I really missed having a cozy chair and living room to retire to last winter since the sofa was so useless. I really didn’t use the house to its full potential. I’m much happier in it this year. My landlady also put something in my bedroom that she told me might be useful in my office, and she was right:

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What an amazing unit for my office! I love having a drawer for my office supplies and the printer higher up than when it was on the night table I was using last year! Some may say that she should have put a desk in here for me, too, but I don’t need one. The plastic table I was using last year is exactly the right height and size.

But I digress. By now, I’m sure you’re curious about the dang torta I mentioned in my post title… I vaguely remember reading about tortas last year, but didn’t think much of them. Maybe it’s because I’ve mastered the taco, but I seem to be seeing tortas everywhere this month and so I started to get curious. They really don’t sound like anything special, just a sandwich with a lot of stuff in it, but they’re quintessential Mexican food, so I decided to try one.

My riding friend Joan told me about a Miguel-ish restaurant at the other end of Isla, near the village embarcadero, called Estanquillo Osuna (not to be confused with the Osuna restaurant on the beach), that is open most evenings. I decided to check it out tonight.

Joan likes their papas locas (crazy potatoes), but that doesn’t appeal much to me since I’m not much of a potato fan unless they are fried Quebec style. The first thing on Osuna’s menu is tortas so I decided that I would try one. My choices were ham, carne asada (steak), pierna (similar to pulled pork, I’m told), and especial. I asked the server what the latter entailed and she slowly recited that it meant ham, steak, cheese, veggies, crema, and chiles. Sign me up!

I don’t know why, but I was expecting a cold sandwich. What arrived had been pressed on a grill, like a panino. The bread was delicate and buttery and one side had a slice of yellow (American/processed cheese). The meat had also seen the grill, with the ham reminding me of the fried baloney my dad used to serve when I was a kid (and that’s not a criticism!). On top of that were bite-sized pieces of steak, some of which were bonded with browned Chihuahua cheese (mmmmmmm), but most of which were loose and reminded me of one of Roseanne Connor’s loose meat sandwiches. There was also lettuce, onions, tomatoes, crema, and chiles, and I may have added a few extra of the chiles (and I had serranos in my lunch; I really am developing a Mexican palate!).

The whole thing was ridiculously messy, way too calorific, and incredibly delicious. Tortas are apparently a lunch food, meant to satisfy the appetite of a hard worker, not be dinner for someone who sits on her butt all day. So they’re a treat I will reserve for days when I’ve done a lot of walking. I’m told there’s a restaurant at the Mercado that does amazing pierna tortas, so I’ll plan to do that one day after a long Malecón walk!

Mexican food tends to combine a lot of different things together, and some combinations seem really odd, but I’m learning to have faith that they’ll work. I just have to avoid the mayo if at all possible. Asking for no mayo never works, even at Miguel’s, so I was really glad that the torta came with crema instead. Next thing I want to try is tostilocos!

I enjoyed eating at Osuna. It was a lot quieter than at Miguel’s (but there were still several customers), and I liked watching the lights of Maz. The price for dinner was $55 with water. A bottle of water at a restaurant is normally an outrageous $12 to $15, so I’d say the torta was probably about $40. So the prices are in line with Miguel’s, too, and it’ll be good to have that other option for a sit down restaurant now that Patty is gone (No, I’m not over it. Patty was wonderful!).

Yikes, look at the time! 7:30 is shutdown time for me since I like to be up by 4:30, 5:00 so I can hit the beach before work. You all feel sorry for me, don’t you. 😉 😉 😉

A Perfectly Mundane Day in Paradise

I was up and at ’em this morning because I knew I was facing a very difficult transcription job, my first one since mid-October (not counting a tiny easy one I did in Nogales). I’m officially back at work full-time! Anyway, I knew this one was going to be a bear and the best way would be to chop it up into bits and give myself good breaks.

I stopped around 9:00 to get some fruits and veggies and then I headed down the street to the butcher shop to hopefully get pork chops for dinner. They only had one, so I decided to save it for lunch another day and instead do chicken tonight, since I am insane. I have no problem buying pork from that shop because it is prepackaged and frozen. Chicken gets chopped up in front of you and the less I say about the process, the better. 🙂 I plan to do like last year and get my chicken cooked for me from the Chicken Lady on weekends, but she wasn’t working this past weekend and I wanted chicken. It was $49 for two huge chicken breasts and a good sized pork chop. I didn’t take note of the price per pound, but I did the math last year and meat is way cheaper here than what I pay in Canada, even for pork, which is a decent deal back home.

I got home and got to work on the chicken. I’m used to the orange colour of the flesh, but had a hard time getting past the odour last year, the main reason I gave up buying my own. But this chicken didn’t have that smell, yay! I chopped it up and threw it in a bowl, then doused it with some Italian dressing. I happened to have an unopened bottle left when I was packing and I use it almost exclusively as an easy chicken marinade on days when I’m not feeling too creative.

Once the chicken was in the fridge, I went back to work before changing into jeans because I was going riding at 11:00! It was just my friend Joan and I today because Janet only just arrived and Sue won’t be here till the 4th of December. Well, there was a family from Chicago, too, but our groups got separated because Joan and I are way more experienced. It was fun to catch up with Daniel and, like last year, our ride doubled as conversation lessons! We also got in two canters and got a chance to see the new pathway under construction near the beach. I’d call it a boardwalk, but it’s made of sand. 🙂 I’ll hike out there another day and get pictures.

Even though we only wanted to be out an hour, we were out almost two! Time just flies when you’re on a horse, even if your creaky body is protesting. 🙂 I cannot get jaded or blasé about how amazing it is to canter down a palm tree lined beach with a glorious tropical sun beating down at me. This is the Good Life I’ve heard so much about!

My bad knee was completely locked up by the time we returned (I have to remind Daniel to get me another saddle; I had a hard time with the stirrups on this one last year, too), so it’s a wonder it didn’t collapse when I dismounted. I should learn to dismount from the other side, even if I’ll get odd looks. But it makes no sense to drop onto that leg since it’s a recipe for getting hurt. Anyway, I was pleased by how easily I was able to mount and dismount, as it showed me that I’m in better shape than I thought I was!

I was famished by this point, so I headed home to make a quick lunch and get back to work. By 3:00ish, I only had an hourish left, so I headed to the beach for a beer, chips, and salsa. I was disappointed that my pico de gallo had no peppers in it and the server offered to either have serranos added to it or to bring me another salsa that is spicy and I could mix the two. I decided to go that route and the combination was very yummy! I can’t believe food not being spicy enough is now a problem!

While I was enjoying my snack, there was a group of drummers making music with a few gals putting on a dance performance. I left them a tip, so my break cost me all of $70 for booze, entertainment, food, and tips! I love it here! 🙂

When I got in, I made the final push on work and finished at 6:00. For dinner, I sautéd a chayote with some onion. Dang, I missed chayote! I made sure to cook the chicken well past the point I would have called it done back home and it was very tasty! I added an avocado squirted with lime juice as a side. Since dinner was so reasonable, I had a small bowl of the pineapple coconut yoghurt I also missed as dessert!

Revisiting Mazatlán’s Museo Arqueológico

Well, it took a full year less eight days, but I finally made it back to Mazatlán’s archeology museum! I thought it would be something fun to do today since Sundays are free admission.

I’m glad I decided to go to town since I ran into one of my riding friends on the lancha and we are riding tomorrow!

It wound up being a cruise ship day and I guided some tourists to the Malecón from Plazuela Machado (just keep going straight till you hit the water!) before getting to the museum.

The outside of the museum hasn’t changed at all.

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Nothing had changed at the museum other than my reading comprehension being even better than it was last year. I took my time reading all the informational placards and looked up the odd word on my phone. I think my favourite exhibit was the Aztatlán pottery, said to be some of the most elaborate pottery in all of the Americas. It is absolutely gorgeous!

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This style of drawing never fails to amuse me. It feels so contemporary, something you’d see in the funny papers!

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This is a statue of a hunchback and was found on the site of present day Mazatlán. I was surprised to learn that hunchbacks were revered as sacred figures and conferred important governmental jobs.

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This striking statue is out in the rear courtyard. I think it’s a bird of some type.

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I liked the mixed mediums used for this T-Rex.

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There were some lovely paintings in the museum lobby. I liked this one, called “The Last Memory,” the best.

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A large tour group came in as I was finishing up, so I didn’t dawdle. I headed the block back towards the Plazuela so I could have lunch at The Water’s Edge. They are still doing a prix fixe lunch menu, identical to last year, but $20 more, for $120. Still very good value for a gourmet lunch with a beer or soft drink!

I sat in their lovely courtyard.

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After much hemming and hawing, I ordered what I had last time, their ‘Asian’ chicken salad. Mangos aren’t in season, so they subbed tinned pineapple, which worked! It was a perfect lunch for a hot day. It doesn’t look like much, but there is a whole grilled chicken breast under the greens.

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After lunch, I met some more very lost tourists right in front of the Panamá’s a block from the Plazuela. One was a frantic man who had 40 minutes till his ship was leaving port and whose map was pretty much useless since there are so few street signs. He just needed to get back to the blue painted line on Carnaval Street, which would eventually lead him to the docks, and he’d be fine. I told him he had plenty of time and I would personally walk him to the start of the blue line, but, first, let me help these other folks.

They were looking for Hector’s, which was easy. I pointed and said, “See that yellow wall two blocks down with a green sign?” “Yes…” “That’s Hector’s!” They ran off to their own meeting and then I told the first gentleman to follow me. He had been wandering in circles for over an hour and whatever lovely morning he’d had in Maz was obviously ruined by the stress of getting lost. 🙁 I thought he was going to cry when he got to the blue line, he was that relieved. I made sure he didn’t want me to take him all the way to the dock (where I would have taken the more expensive beach lancha to get home) and he refused.

So I turned back and headed towards the other embarcadero, stopping for nieve de garrafa and a pair of earrings along the way. The vendor didn’t recognize me, but she did recognize the earrings I had on as being one of her pairs! There wasn’t much choice today, but it’s not hard to find a pair I like for just $10! And I have to stress again that I’m talking pesos here!

Then, I hoofed it up to Ley to get some sundries and my favourite yoghurt before making a beeline for the embarcadero because I was beat. I did stop in at an abarrotes to pick up a cold bottle of water for the remainder of my walk.

Well, the holiday is over. My first transcription job of November just landed and I really should make inroads in it today since I’m riding tomorrow!

Scenes From Isla

Today is the annual celebration for the Ejido community and there has been loud partying going on since around 6:00 this morning! I headed out around 10:00 for a walk around the main part of Isla, to see what was going on today and what has changed in the last year.

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going u p now!

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going up now!

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Lety's and Victor's restaurants. Haven't been to Victor's yet.

Lety’s and Victor’s restaurants. Haven’t been to Victor’s yet.

More restaurants I haven't been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

More restaurants I haven’t been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren't many customers.

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren’t many customers.

More restaurants.

More restaurants.

The oyster seller was there last year.

The oyster seller was there last year.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

Where did you recently see something similar?

Where did you recently see something similar?

The new paint job on the tortillería's looks great!

The new paint job on the tortillería looks great!

New restaurant that I'll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

New restaurant that I’ll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

There's a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

There’s a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

Looks like fun for the kids!

Looks like fun for the kids!

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

Patty's defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she's gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

Patty’s defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she’s gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

The mechanic has been very busy. I'll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The mechanic has been very busy. I’ll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they're expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they’re expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. :(

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. 🙁

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don't like the glass railing.

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don’t like the glass railing.

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

My neighbour's horses headed to work.

My neighbour’s horses headed to work.

Another neighbour is using a child's car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

Another neighbour is using a child’s car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.