My First Torta

This week is the way life is supposed to be when you’re not retired, I think, with enough work to fill the coffers but not completely crush your soul with tedium, and plenty of time to stop and enjoy your ‘island’ paradise.

Amazingly, every single one of my clients has me on deck this week, even a couple of one-offs that I never expected to hear from again. It’s long days, but since I’m not doing the same thing hour after hour and a lot of work can be done from my armchair, it’s not hard the way my old transcription marathons were.

After finishing my eight-hour proofing shift, I went for a long beach walk, enjoying how quiet it is before the tourists come. Then, I came home to start on some graphic design-type work when an email came in asking if anyone from proofing could do a job right that minute. I knew that this writer’s copy is very clean and it wouldn’t be super tedious, so I claimed it… and may have had a beer while working on it. That done, I did a bit of work on the other project, but since I have to work on the PC and I’d already put in nearly 10 hours, I didn’t have enough patience to do much more than lay out the work to do. But at least I got started on it and have an idea of how long the job will take.

It was then time to put my feet up for a bit and read. I’ve been reading a lot since I got back to Isla and I know that chair has something to do with it! I really missed having a cozy chair and living room to retire to last winter since the sofa was so useless. I really didn’t use the house to its full potential. I’m much happier in it this year. My landlady also put something in my bedroom that she told me might be useful in my office, and she was right:

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What an amazing unit for my office! I love having a drawer for my office supplies and the printer higher up than when it was on the night table I was using last year! Some may say that she should have put a desk in here for me, too, but I don’t need one. The plastic table I was using last year is exactly the right height and size.

But I digress. By now, I’m sure you’re curious about the dang torta I mentioned in my post title… I vaguely remember reading about tortas last year, but didn’t think much of them. Maybe it’s because I’ve mastered the taco, but I seem to be seeing tortas everywhere this month and so I started to get curious. They really don’t sound like anything special, just a sandwich with a lot of stuff in it, but they’re quintessential Mexican food, so I decided to try one.

My riding friend Joan told me about a Miguel-ish restaurant at the other end of Isla, near the village embarcadero, called Estanquillo Osuna (not to be confused with the Osuna restaurant on the beach), that is open most evenings. I decided to check it out tonight.

Joan likes their papas locas (crazy potatoes), but that doesn’t appeal much to me since I’m not much of a potato fan unless they are fried Quebec style. The first thing on Osuna’s menu is tortas so I decided that I would try one. My choices were ham, carne asada (steak), pierna (similar to pulled pork, I’m told), and especial. I asked the server what the latter entailed and she slowly recited that it meant ham, steak, cheese, veggies, crema, and chiles. Sign me up!

I don’t know why, but I was expecting a cold sandwich. What arrived had been pressed on a grill, like a panino. The bread was delicate and buttery and one side had a slice of yellow (American/processed cheese). The meat had also seen the grill, with the ham reminding me of the fried baloney my dad used to serve when I was a kid (and that’s not a criticism!). On top of that were bite-sized pieces of steak, some of which were bonded with browned Chihuahua cheese (mmmmmmm), but most of which were loose and reminded me of one of Roseanne Connor’s loose meat sandwiches. There was also lettuce, onions, tomatoes, crema, and chiles, and I may have added a few extra of the chiles (and I had serranos in my lunch; I really am developing a Mexican palate!).

The whole thing was ridiculously messy, way too calorific, and incredibly delicious. Tortas are apparently a lunch food, meant to satisfy the appetite of a hard worker, not be dinner for someone who sits on her butt all day. So they’re a treat I will reserve for days when I’ve done a lot of walking. I’m told there’s a restaurant at the Mercado that does amazing pierna tortas, so I’ll plan to do that one day after a long Malecón walk!

Mexican food tends to combine a lot of different things together, and some combinations seem really odd, but I’m learning to have faith that they’ll work. I just have to avoid the mayo if at all possible. Asking for no mayo never works, even at Miguel’s, so I was really glad that the torta came with crema instead. Next thing I want to try is tostilocos!

I enjoyed eating at Osuna. It was a lot quieter than at Miguel’s (but there were still several customers), and I liked watching the lights of Maz. The price for dinner was $55 with water. A bottle of water at a restaurant is normally an outrageous $12 to $15, so I’d say the torta was probably about $40. So the prices are in line with Miguel’s, too, and it’ll be good to have that other option for a sit down restaurant now that Patty is gone (No, I’m not over it. Patty was wonderful!).

Yikes, look at the time! 7:30 is shutdown time for me since I like to be up by 4:30, 5:00 so I can hit the beach before work. You all feel sorry for me, don’t you. 😉 😉 😉

A Perfectly Mundane Day in Paradise

I was up and at ’em this morning because I knew I was facing a very difficult transcription job, my first one since mid-October (not counting a tiny easy one I did in Nogales). I’m officially back at work full-time! Anyway, I knew this one was going to be a bear and the best way would be to chop it up into bits and give myself good breaks.

I stopped around 9:00 to get some fruits and veggies and then I headed down the street to the butcher shop to hopefully get pork chops for dinner. They only had one, so I decided to save it for lunch another day and instead do chicken tonight, since I am insane. I have no problem buying pork from that shop because it is prepackaged and frozen. Chicken gets chopped up in front of you and the less I say about the process, the better. 🙂 I plan to do like last year and get my chicken cooked for me from the Chicken Lady on weekends, but she wasn’t working this past weekend and I wanted chicken. It was $49 for two huge chicken breasts and a good sized pork chop. I didn’t take note of the price per pound, but I did the math last year and meat is way cheaper here than what I pay in Canada, even for pork, which is a decent deal back home.

I got home and got to work on the chicken. I’m used to the orange colour of the flesh, but had a hard time getting past the odour last year, the main reason I gave up buying my own. But this chicken didn’t have that smell, yay! I chopped it up and threw it in a bowl, then doused it with some Italian dressing. I happened to have an unopened bottle left when I was packing and I use it almost exclusively as an easy chicken marinade on days when I’m not feeling too creative.

Once the chicken was in the fridge, I went back to work before changing into jeans because I was going riding at 11:00! It was just my friend Joan and I today because Janet only just arrived and Sue won’t be here till the 4th of December. Well, there was a family from Chicago, too, but our groups got separated because Joan and I are way more experienced. It was fun to catch up with Daniel and, like last year, our ride doubled as conversation lessons! We also got in two canters and got a chance to see the new pathway under construction near the beach. I’d call it a boardwalk, but it’s made of sand. 🙂 I’ll hike out there another day and get pictures.

Even though we only wanted to be out an hour, we were out almost two! Time just flies when you’re on a horse, even if your creaky body is protesting. 🙂 I cannot get jaded or blasé about how amazing it is to canter down a palm tree lined beach with a glorious tropical sun beating down at me. This is the Good Life I’ve heard so much about!

My bad knee was completely locked up by the time we returned (I have to remind Daniel to get me another saddle; I had a hard time with the stirrups on this one last year, too), so it’s a wonder it didn’t collapse when I dismounted. I should learn to dismount from the other side, even if I’ll get odd looks. But it makes no sense to drop onto that leg since it’s a recipe for getting hurt. Anyway, I was pleased by how easily I was able to mount and dismount, as it showed me that I’m in better shape than I thought I was!

I was famished by this point, so I headed home to make a quick lunch and get back to work. By 3:00ish, I only had an hourish left, so I headed to the beach for a beer, chips, and salsa. I was disappointed that my pico de gallo had no peppers in it and the server offered to either have serranos added to it or to bring me another salsa that is spicy and I could mix the two. I decided to go that route and the combination was very yummy! I can’t believe food not being spicy enough is now a problem!

While I was enjoying my snack, there was a group of drummers making music with a few gals putting on a dance performance. I left them a tip, so my break cost me all of $70 for booze, entertainment, food, and tips! I love it here! 🙂

When I got in, I made the final push on work and finished at 6:00. For dinner, I sautéd a chayote with some onion. Dang, I missed chayote! I made sure to cook the chicken well past the point I would have called it done back home and it was very tasty! I added an avocado squirted with lime juice as a side. Since dinner was so reasonable, I had a small bowl of the pineapple coconut yoghurt I also missed as dessert!

Revisiting Mazatlán’s Museo Arqueológico

Well, it took a full year less eight days, but I finally made it back to Mazatlán’s archeology museum! I thought it would be something fun to do today since Sundays are free admission.

I’m glad I decided to go to town since I ran into one of my riding friends on the lancha and we are riding tomorrow!

It wound up being a cruise ship day and I guided some tourists to the Malecón from Plazuela Machado (just keep going straight till you hit the water!) before getting to the museum.

The outside of the museum hasn’t changed at all.

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Nothing had changed at the museum other than my reading comprehension being even better than it was last year. I took my time reading all the informational placards and looked up the odd word on my phone. I think my favourite exhibit was the Aztatlán pottery, said to be some of the most elaborate pottery in all of the Americas. It is absolutely gorgeous!

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This style of drawing never fails to amuse me. It feels so contemporary, something you’d see in the funny papers!

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This is a statue of a hunchback and was found on the site of present day Mazatlán. I was surprised to learn that hunchbacks were revered as sacred figures and conferred important governmental jobs.

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This striking statue is out in the rear courtyard. I think it’s a bird of some type.

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I liked the mixed mediums used for this T-Rex.

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There were some lovely paintings in the museum lobby. I liked this one, called “The Last Memory,” the best.

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A large tour group came in as I was finishing up, so I didn’t dawdle. I headed the block back towards the Plazuela so I could have lunch at The Water’s Edge. They are still doing a prix fixe lunch menu, identical to last year, but $20 more, for $120. Still very good value for a gourmet lunch with a beer or soft drink!

I sat in their lovely courtyard.

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After much hemming and hawing, I ordered what I had last time, their ‘Asian’ chicken salad. Mangos aren’t in season, so they subbed tinned pineapple, which worked! It was a perfect lunch for a hot day. It doesn’t look like much, but there is a whole grilled chicken breast under the greens.

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After lunch, I met some more very lost tourists right in front of the Panamá’s a block from the Plazuela. One was a frantic man who had 40 minutes till his ship was leaving port and whose map was pretty much useless since there are so few street signs. He just needed to get back to the blue painted line on Carnaval Street, which would eventually lead him to the docks, and he’d be fine. I told him he had plenty of time and I would personally walk him to the start of the blue line, but, first, let me help these other folks.

They were looking for Hector’s, which was easy. I pointed and said, “See that yellow wall two blocks down with a green sign?” “Yes…” “That’s Hector’s!” They ran off to their own meeting and then I told the first gentleman to follow me. He had been wandering in circles for over an hour and whatever lovely morning he’d had in Maz was obviously ruined by the stress of getting lost. 🙁 I thought he was going to cry when he got to the blue line, he was that relieved. I made sure he didn’t want me to take him all the way to the dock (where I would have taken the more expensive beach lancha to get home) and he refused.

So I turned back and headed towards the other embarcadero, stopping for nieve de garrafa and a pair of earrings along the way. The vendor didn’t recognize me, but she did recognize the earrings I had on as being one of her pairs! There wasn’t much choice today, but it’s not hard to find a pair I like for just $10! And I have to stress again that I’m talking pesos here!

Then, I hoofed it up to Ley to get some sundries and my favourite yoghurt before making a beeline for the embarcadero because I was beat. I did stop in at an abarrotes to pick up a cold bottle of water for the remainder of my walk.

Well, the holiday is over. My first transcription job of November just landed and I really should make inroads in it today since I’m riding tomorrow!

Scenes From Isla

Today is the annual celebration for the Ejido community and there has been loud partying going on since around 6:00 this morning! I headed out around 10:00 for a walk around the main part of Isla, to see what was going on today and what has changed in the last year.

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going u p now!

This was a vacant lot at the end of my street last winter. Big house going up now!

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Low tide on an almost deserted beach. Looking towards Isla de Chivas and the Faro.

Lety's and Victor's restaurants. Haven't been to Victor's yet.

Lety’s and Victor’s restaurants. Haven’t been to Victor’s yet.

More restaurants I haven't been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

More restaurants I haven’t been to. Osuna is new. I really should make it a point to try each one!

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren't many customers.

The vendors were listening to music since there really weren’t many customers.

More restaurants.

More restaurants.

The oyster seller was there last year.

The oyster seller was there last year.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

I enjoyed watching the large ships in harbour.

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

And looking at Icebox Hill. Exploring it should be on my to-do list for the winter!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I also had fun watching the crabs. I had no idea they can jump! This guy was like Spiderman, jumping and crawling up stuff!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

I paused to get a $10 Solero bar, which is a high end fruit juice popsicle. This one was lime. Very refreshing!

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

Gobs of (Mexican) tourists) getting on a tour tractor.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

There is going to be a parade, so there were a lot of floats.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

A big chunk of Calle Principal was blocked off near the school for a party. Lots of tables and chairs under open tents and musicians were setting up.

Where did you recently see something similar?

Where did you recently see something similar?

The new paint job on the tortillería's looks great!

The new paint job on the tortillería looks great!

New restaurant that I'll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

New restaurant that I’ll need to try. They sell tortas, which I have never had.

There's a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

There’s a carnival inside the baseball stadium.

Looks like fun for the kids!

Looks like fun for the kids!

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

I used to love going to these things when I was a kid.

Patty's defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she's gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

Patty’s defunct restaurant is under renovations. I wonder if she’s gone for good or just redecorating. I miss her $40 burger and *real* fries!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

These pretty flowers smelled divine!

The mechanic has been very busy. I'll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The mechanic has been very busy. I’ll stop in next week and see if he can fit me in to look at my clutch.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

The butcher shop made a nice sign in honour of the festivities.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they're expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

Very different setup inside than last year. Looks like they’re expanding into a full service abbarotes and not just doing meat.

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. :(

No sign of chicken at 11:45 means no chicken. 🙁

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don't like the glass railing.

Amazing work done on this house since I was last here, but I don’t like the glass railing.

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

One thing that surprised me about buildings here is that their main electrical breaker panel is outside!

My neighbour's horses headed to work.

My neighbour’s horses headed to work.

Another neighbour is using a child's car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

Another neighbour is using a child’s car seat to hold up the clothes line on her roof!

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.

This same neighbour has opened up a restaurant of sorts.

Lunch at Mary’s and Off to the Cinema

I used to go to the movies a lot, but with the decline in film quality over the years and difficulty to get to a cinema when there is something good playing, I’ve lost the habit. The only movie I really wanted to see last winter never came to Maz, so I never got motivated to figure out Going to the Movies in Mexico. But there was a big movie coming out this fall that I wanted to see in theatres and it just happened to be opening in Mexico today: Spectre, the new Bond movie.

I figured that with the number of Mexicans who speak English I could surely find a showing of Spectre in English, possibly with Spanish subtitles. Absolutely! In fact, I had quite my pick of showtimes and locations. I chose the 2:20 show at the Gran Plaza Cinépolis. 2:20 because it was a very long movie and I didn’t want to get home too late. Gran Plaza because of its convenient location near Mega. I knew that I could walk to the store after, get some groceries, and then easily grab a cab to the embarcadero.

I left home around 11:30 this morning and did my usual walk to the Fisherman’s Monument to grab a bus. For the first time, I managed to flag one down outside an official stop! I got off deep in the Golden Zone since I wanted to grab lunch at Mary’s, a burger joint reader Sandy has recommended more than once.

I wish that I had glowing reviews for Mary’s, but it just wasn’t my thing. Sorry, Sandy. Yes, the burger was good, but last year I could grab a really good plain burger just up the road for half the price or a fancier burger at Beach Burger at the Plazuela Machado for a third of the price. I also didn’t care for the Gringo ambiance, with the English only and late ’90s’ music that I was sick of listening to 17 years ago.

Look at these prices. They’re steep even by US standards!

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I had the Texas burger, with jalapeño, cheese, BBQ sauce, onions and bacon. Beach Burger does something very similar, only with avocado instead of jalapeño. I found Mary’s burger quite salty, but I liked the mix of ingredients. The peppers weren’t spicy at all, but added some zing.

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I did appreciate that they serve Heinz ketchup!

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The bill came in both pesos and USD, so disheartening. The peso price is a better value, by a full USD.

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I would go to Mary’s again if that’s where someone wanted to meet me or if I had a guest who was craving a little slice of the States, but not on my own. I’m glad I tried it out, but it’s not the Mexico I came here for.

From Mary’s, I headed south towards Rafael Buelna, stopping to get a cold bottle of water at an Oxxo and an ice cream at Thrifty’s (in lieu of a snack at the theatre). I had no sooner turned onto Rafael Buelna when I was accosted by a gang of Mexican tourists from out of state who mistook me for a Mexican! I sent them off to Taco Loco, after they complained that they couldn’t find a taco joint with ‘real’ prices, no English on the menu, and spicy salsa. I have a feeling that my directing Mexican tourists to authentic tacos in the heart of Gringoland is going to be my favourite story of the winter!

By the time I reached the Gran Plaza, I was more than ready for air conditioning! The cinema is located in a mall, a very similar setup to what you see NOB. I had no trouble buying my ticket (saying, literally, “Double zero seven” because I had no idea how to pronounce Spectre in Spanish! One thing that surprised me is that they have assigned seating. I had to pick my seat without ever having been in their theatres, so I chose one right smack in the middle of the theatre, which wound up being row G. G is not an easy letter to pronounce in Spanish (it’s sort of like yeah, but more guttural), but I was apparently very clear. What can I say, I like a challenge! A movie ticket was just $43!!!!!!!!!!!!!! That’s 2.56USD or 3.40CAD!

I was early, so I sat with my phone in the lounge until it was close to start time. I had a glance at the food, and it was super pricy, close to NOB prices. Popcorn is ‘palomitas.’ Then, I went in. The seats were very comfy and reclined slightly. Row G was one row too close to the screen for me, so I’ll go with H next time.

Pirating warnings, commercials, and previews started promptly at 2:20 and lasted for what seemed forever. So going to the cinema in Mexico is just like going to the cinema in Canada and the US. I went to the cinema twice when I was in Scotland, and mind you this was almost 20 years ago and in very small town theatres, but if the movie started at 2:20, it started at 2:20. All the previews and whatnot were before then.

The movie was absolutely amazing! I can’t believe how bad Quantum of Solace was when Casino Royale, Skyfall, and Spectre were so good. I’m tempted to go back and give Quantum of Solace another chance now that some of its issues have been addressed…

I sometimes have difficulty with the British accent and wish I had subtitles, so I was glad to have them for this one, even if they were in Spanish! They actually helped me out a few times.

The movie finished at 5:00 and I spent a full 10 minutes wandering around the mall looking for an exit! I finally made my way back to the entrance I’d come in on, clear across the mall from the cinema, so the equivalent of walking two extra blocks from Mega. It was still light out and I headed off to the grocery store, refusing service from a pulmonía along the way.

While I prefer to shop at Soriana and Ley, each grocery store has some things the other doesn’t. Mega has the best bakery section (Raisin bread with no sugar! Pumpernickel!) and I can count on it to have hummus (thanks again, Sandy!). I got what I needed, amounting to three bags’ worth, and headed down to get a taxi.

There was a pulmonía and a regular taxi waiting out front, with the drivers sitting at a table chatting. Normally when you come out of a store laden with packages, taxi drivers will fall on you in droves, but not these guys. I said to them, “Taxi?” and they looked at each other until one finally asked me where I was going. When I told him the embarcadero, he said, “Why do you want to go there?!” That’s very unusual for my experience with Mexico. People here don’t question you and assume you know what you’re doing unless you ask for help. I was tired and retorted, “Hoping to sleep in my bed tonight, thank you very much.” He did a double take and told me that the fare would be $60, which is average for that ride, so not worth bargaining down. He didn’t help me with my door or my packages either at Mega or at the embarcadero, so I didn’t tip. Oh, and this was a real taxi again, dang!

Here’s a map of my day. The red tear drop is Mega. Pemex la Ceiba at the bottom right is across Emilio Barragán from the embarcadero. So I walked from there to Fisherman’s Monument, where I got on the bus to get to Mary’s. From Mary’s, I walked to the cinema, then back to the Mega, where I got a cab. The cab took a winding route that mostly parallels the bus route.

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I was tempted to get a couple of hot dogs for supper at the embarcadero, but I was hoping the hot dog lady would be up and running on this side so I could get them to go and put my own mustard relish on them. Turns out, she’s out of business. Dang. I did pick up some beer on the way and decided to have one with some of my bread, cheese, salami, and hummus for a quick and easy supper.

It’s been a long, full, and great day in Maz again! But I think tomorrow will be an Isla day… 🙂