Semana Santa: Wednesday on the Beach

This week is Semana Santa (Holy Week) and the Mexicans are on holidays. I was warned that the beach will be standing room only by the weekend and that I should plan to hunker down. I decided that since today is likely to be the last day before the madness truly starts, I would go check out what was what on the beach.

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Shade is a precious commodity on a hot beach! These palapas were built for Semana Santa.

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Pretty quiet at my end of the beach.

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Quite a hill of sand. We’ve been having HIGH tides!

All the vendors and signage are for Mexicans, not Gringos, most of whom have left already anyway. It’s nice to be in such a touristy area and still experience something authentically Mexican.

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Teepees for rent.

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20 pesos PER HOUR!

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Getting busier.

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People were out in the water after several days of bad waves.

I will confess I was getting flashbacks to the movie Jaws, just before the Kintner boy is killed…

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A quiet stretch.

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You can buy all manner of beach toys.

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And beach clothes.

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More floaty things and pails.

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I’d only buy ceviche from a guy with a cooler at the start of the day…

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Surprisingly quiet at this end of the beach (near the climb to the panga).

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Finally, a chance to photograph this sign as a reminder to Google what the heck tejuino and tuba are!

Tejuino is a fermented drink made from corn juice. Tuba is palm wine. So both are very mildly alcoholic concoctions.

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Rent tables, bathrooms, and… watering cans? Sprinklers?

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Very few Gringos on the beach.

To my surprise, I saw my friend N playing in the surf, so I joined her, glad I was wearing suitable clothing for that! I had a few things to discuss with her, so that worked out really well.

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I was curious about raspado and picked a vendor at random.

I don’t normally bring money on my walks, but I had thought to stop at a restaurant for a limonada mineral and so had a little cash. Instead of waiting for ages at one of the crowded restaurants, I decided to check out what a ‘raspado’ is at there were a lot of vendors for them. I knew that shaved ice was involved.

That’s the base and you can add fruit juice with chunks of fruit, spices, caramel, sweetened condensed milk and more. I asked for a simple pineapple one and the cost was 20 pesos. Folks who got caramel and milk paid 25 to 30 pesos.

The ice comes in a huge block that is kept in a garbage bag. There’s a tool for shaving it that also collects the shavings into a neat shape that can be easily packed into a glass.

The man spoke some English, but was happy to switch to Spanish and said, “You must be Canadian.” I asked how he knew and he said that it’s easy. According to him, the Americans never buy from food carts, but Canadians often do. I shrugged and said that I’ve been here for almost six months and the food has yet to make me sick, much less kill me!

The raspado was wonderful and refreshing, with a generous amount of pineapple. I may seek him out again to try a prune one!

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Chunks of fruit (pineapple) with syrup over shaved ice. Very refreshing!

As I was reaching my turn off to go home, Paco, the jewellery vendor, came up to me and said, in English, “I’m not selling, just want you to look at more snake rings.” I did and didn’t like what he had as they were much bigger than the one I bought, which is already the limit of how big a ring I’ll wear since I have to be able to type with it. He proved to me that he really wasn’t trying to sell when he said, “Okay. See you again soon,” and turned to leave.

So I surprised him by asking if he had earrings, he opened up his case, I had a gander, and we struck a deal for delicate dragonflies with iridescent blue stones that he again confirmed are not real silver, but which are lovely nonetheless. He was really surprised and pleased to make a sale!

I’m glad I got a peek at what Semana Santa is like on the beach, but I’m not convinced I’ll be heading there over the weekend, other than to perhaps sneak a few pictures from a distance!

A Leisurely Mazatlán Drive

My friends Janet and Grant were moving to a B&B in the Golden Zone today and asked me to drive them and their wonderful dog, Boo, as well as their pile of luggage. I was warned by Contessa that this is a holiday week and so traffic in town is crazy and that they should take a panga and auriga. Having yet to see anywhere in North America traffic as bad as Montreal on a normal day and today being midweek, I decided to ignore the warning and save Janet and Grant the trouble of manhandling all that gear and the dog. 🙂

As it turned out, traffic was actually quite light so that, in combination with The Road being in good shape, meant we were at the B&B in just under an hour. It would have been closer to 45 minutes if I hadn’t tried to avoid Camarón Sábalo since I heard there would be closures on it. As it turned out, it was open to northbound traffic, so we were fine. Grant only had directions from Camarón Sábalo and no map, so it made sense to risk taking the road and it worked out fine.

From the B&B, I followed the very good and clear southbound detour signs to Rafael Buelna (Flagstaff, take note). I wanted to get a few things at Mega and the detour took me to Rafael Buelna just a block from the store, so I had a right, a left, and a right to make and I was there… where I discovered that between the three of us, we had missed the giant dog crate on the passenger bucket seat! Dang!

Since I was there, I decided to do my shopping before making my way back to the B&B. The trip to Mega ended up being rather pointless since they didn’t have the no sugar high protein delicious granola I picked up there last time, but they did have their unsweetened whole wheat raisin bread, so the trip wasn’t a complete bust. I also got beer since I can’t get Tecate on Isla, was due for a change, and didn’t have to carry it home!

Coming out of Mega, I was peckish, so I bought a slice of decent pizza and a bottle of cold water for 27 pesos from the Rin Rin below the supermarket. The manager was on hand to translate, but very quickly realised his help wasn’t needed and went back into the hall to try to find more customers.

I’d brought the styrofoam cooler with me, so I put my cold stuff in there when I got back to the truck. This included quite a lot of yoghurt since the Lala was quite a bit cheaper than I’ve ever seen it anywhere else, 20 pesos for the BIG tub!.

From Mega, I took Camarón Sábalo back up to Gaviotas and then on to the B&B where Janet and Grant were very happy to see me. Grant had already planned to get on a bus and meet me at the panga!

To get to Mex-15, I followed the Rafael Buelna signs for a bit, but then veered off from them, taking a route I believed would take me to a road where I could turn right and then catch Rafael Buelna at a light across from the Home Depot so I could make a left hand turn. My route was perfect and after a few turns, I was on Mex-15 heading home.

It was such an easy and pleasant drive in town today. My navigator wound up not being very useful (I so wish he read this blog *g*), but I really do know my way around now and all I had to focus on was not hitting or being hit by anyone, easy peasy.

Now, to see if Isla and the Beach do get as crazy this weekend as many people have warned me about…