Temperature is Relative

My cousin was thrilled with the weather this week, while I found it cool during the overcast days and downright chilly in the evening. It’s amazing how quickly one adapts to a new climate!

While waiting for my hot dogs tonight, I chatted with one of the cooks. She complained about tonight’s cold weather and I told her that, considering there’s snow back home, I can’t complain! She says the coldest place she’s been is Lake Tahoe in winter and tonight was almost as bad! She was exaggerating. 🙂 I told her that I saw some pictures of this week’s snowfall in Los Angeles, which shocked her, and concluded that the world has gone crazy, which she found really funny.

(I didn’t know how to say complain, so I said ‘cannot say something bad about the weather.’ So my word of the day is quejarse!)

The lady who dresses my hot dogs was once again surprised by how little I want on them, never mind the odd, to her, combination. Next week, I will tell her about what are normal hot dog toppings where I’m from. I didn’t do it tonight because I didn’t know how to say sauerkraut (just like in French, but spelled differently, chucrut!) or sweet pickle relish (still working on that one, will probably just say minced sweet marinated cucumbers).

Speaking of relish, my cousin brought me some from Quebec. My hot dogs tonight were pretty dang perfect! I don’t miss the sauerkraut at all; the tomatoes give the acidity I need.

Some of the hot dogs are wrapped in bacon before grilling. This week, I graduated to the bacon wrapped ones. Woohoo! 🙂

Tomorrow is chicken. I missed last week. I ran into the chicken lady at Ley today and she actually commented on the fact!

Like a Pack Mule

My cousin and I said our goodbyes at Rico’s at about 9:30 because they needed to be in a taxi for the airport by about 10:00. I crossed the street and walked about a block to a dedicated bus stop where two older Gringas were waiting. It was really nice to see that demographic taking the bus!

This is what passes for a bus stop bench in Mexico. I was just glad to have a bench!

This is what passes for a bus stop bench in Mexico. I was just glad to have a bench!

The bus was crowded, but I still managed to score a window seat. It was quite a long drive south because there was more traffic. We eventually left the MalecĂłn and started zigzagging through streets until I wasn’t quite certain exactly where I was. I figured that most of the bus would empty at the Mercado and waited for a huge crowd to stand up to get off, a plan that worked perfectly as that put me right at an entrance to the Mercado.

I hadn’t had breakfast and was starting to feel faint, so I made a beeline for a bakery and got a pastry stuffed with pineapple to tide me over until I could find a proper brunch. I love the pastries here in that even the sweet ones aren’t super sweet. I paid with a centavo coin for the first time!

My blood sugar stabilized, I headed to Waldo’s to get a few things and then I decided to go explore the restaurants above the Mercado. One thing I love about Mexico is that you can get ‘non-breakfast food’ for breakfast, especially at places that don’t cater to Gringos (I could have bought freshly grilled beef and onion tacos from a cart on the walk to the MalecĂłn this morning!). Rico’s had surprisingly decent prices for breakfast, but it was all stuff like eggs, waffles, and bagels, none of which are my first choice for breakfast.

Most of the upstairs restaurants had similar menus. One lady waved me into her place and when I saw the number of Mexicans eating there, it seemed like a fine choice. She offered me a plate of fried shrimp, fries, beans, rice, and tortillas for 70 pesos. It wasn’t a special oh wow meal (although I do have to say that the shrimp were awesome, not being too heavily breaded and well seasoned), but it was hearty, savoury, not expensive, and way more than I could eat (the tortilla stack was bigger than one I get to last me three or four days!).

It’s funny how one of my biggest fears about coming to Mexico was that I would be afraid to eat at restaurants like these that would very likely fail a health inspection back home and now that I’m here, I don’t even think twice about eating at such a place!

Sated, I headed downstairs to load up on fruits and veggies. I never get everything from one vendor. I don’t know why, everybody seems to have the same stuff for the same price and quality!

I walked around a bit looking for a cheese vendor I was told about, but failed, so I exited on Leandro Valle and headed to the Ley. There, I loaded up on dairy products, bacon, and a few other things that were on sale (including a two for one deal on baked tostadas). I’m going to Soriana with Dale next week, so I only got what I needed to get me through the weekend.

One important thing I picked up was powdered milk, which is what I use for my coffee. I bought some in the States and must have gotten a bad batch because it absolutely refused to turn creamy with the addition of hot water, which is another thing that made my coffee situation so bad here. A bag that would have cost me about 12CAD was on sale for only 33 pesos! This stuff was Carnation brand and was perfect in my Rico’s coffee!

Back outside, I balanced my load as best as I could and debated taking Zaragoza or Leandro Valle to get to the embarcadero. The latter is hilly and the former had more chances of my being tempted by a pulmonĂ­a, so I obviously picked the harder option, grateful that this was the first time I’ve come out of Ley to a complete lack of pulmonĂ­as!

By the time I got to the panga, I was pretty tired, but my work wasn’t done. The dock was quite low, but the water level high, so it was a huge step into the boat. I was wearing capris, so the guys weren’t eager to help me with my bags (I tend to get help if I’m in a skirt or dress, amusingly enough).

When I got back to Isla, I popped into the City Deli to pick up an eight-pack of beer and that was my absolute limit as to what I could carry! And it was a bit much; I was really eager to get home. I ran into Dale partway, so I had an excuse to take a short break. Yes, I could have taken a pulmonĂ­a on this side, but I need the exercise!

I can’t believe I’ve been in Mazatlán just shy of two months and am already so comfortable making my way around the city. The last step will be figuring out the buses that go to Walmart and Soriana, something Dale is looking forward to trying.

Good Coffee at Long Last

Rico’s Cafe is just a couple of block’s from my cousin’s hotel and is run by an American. My cousin is even more of a coffee snob than I am and raved about the coffee and all the beans she was bringing home, so I was eager try it out! Coffee was one place I was not too snobby or cheap to deal with in Gringoland because Mexicans just don’t have a coffee culture.

She had a 16 oz drip coffee with a shot of espresso and I went for just the drip coffee. They make it in a manner similar to a French press, so you get a mouthful of grinds at the end if you’re not careful, something I’m used since I’ve been doing French press coffee for so long.

The coffee wasn’t fantastic, but it was still the best coffee I’ve had since finishing up my Canadian coffee way back in October! It had so much potential, but there was a bit of a soapy taste to it, for lack of a better description, probably something to do with how they wash their cups. Not enough to be off putting or to stop me from enjoying it, but it wasn’t the perfect cup of coffee I’d been expecting this morning.  Still, it was a huge step above anything I’ve had in months and I savoured every mouthful!

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I then put in an order for beans, with my cousin recommending Veracruz dark roast. I got half a pound for about 68 pesos and had them grind them for me. The smell of the beans through the bag was divine. I couldn’t stop smelling it all the way home!

I’m enjoying a cup of it now and trying not to weep with joy. 🙂 Oh, real coffee at very long last. I hope that what I get at the more convenient Olas Altas cafĂ© I was recommended will be just as good, but at least now I know that, worst case, I can get coffee for 28 pesos round trip! 🙂

Oh, and two giant coffees (one with a shot of espresso) and a bag of beans was just 142 pesos! I used to pay almost 20CAD for an equivalent amount of beans in Gatineau!

Taking the Bus in Mazatlán

Today, I took another step to becoming a Mazatleca, I took the bus! Finally!

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The water level was very high this morning!

I left home at about 7:00 and was to meet my cousin between 8:00 and 8:30 at her hotel, which gave me quite a bit of time to walk to a bus, wait for a bus, and then walk from wherever I ended up to the hotel. I was told to take the Sábalo-Centro route, which essentially goes between the Mercado Piño Suarez and the northernmost tip of Mazatlán, along the Malecón and through the Golden Zone.

It was the same distance to walk from the embarcadero to the mercado or to the MalecĂłn at the fishermen’s monument using GutiĂ©rrez Nájera, so I decided to go the later route, figuring it would be easier to identify a bus going towards the Golden Zone.

I’ve seen a few bus stops in Maz, but not many, and certainly not along the MalecĂłn. It looks like a lot of people just hail them down wherever the bus can safely stop. I walked for a few minutes until I saw a bunch of people loitering around a pole and figured that that had to be a bus stop or, at least, a place where the bus could stop safely. Indeed. The driver was quite put upon to tell me the fare (10 pesos versus up to 120 to take a pulmonĂ­a!), so I was glad I didn’t have to rely on him to help me figure out where to get off.

The bus was just like any city bus, only a bit battered with torn seats. The suspension wasn’t great either! 🙂

My first point of reference in the Golden Zone was the Banamex, after which time I kept an eye out in the distance for the overhead pedestrian bridge attached to my cousin’s hotel. It was still quite far off (less than 10 minutes on foot) when a bunch of people got up, so I decided to get off with them, concerned that the bus driver might be a jerk and purposely make me miss my stop and leave me even further from the hotel.

This turned out to be a good plan because it allowed me to pass a Santander bank, which was recommended to me by a reader here (Kathe?). I’d tried before and it wouldn’t take my card, but this time I had no trouble. The fee was only about 30 pesos and, best of all, I got a few small bills!

My cousin’s room is quite deep into the hotel and I was there at 8:05 on the dot. My first Mazatlán bus trip was a success!