Parks Canada’s Bear Creek Compound

Parks Canada’s Bear Creek Compound is somewhat legendary in Dawson as few have stepped foot in it. Today, for the first time in at least seven years, and possibly for the last time, the compound was opened to the public for a few hours. Checking it out seemed like a good use of my afternoon break!

From the Parks Canada website:

Bear Creek is an industrial complex of some 65 buildings and related structures located in the Klondike River Valley, 10 kilometres east of Dawson City. From 1905 to 1966, Bear Creek was the Klondike headquarters for corporate mining interests, acting as the administrative and repair centre for the goldfield’s dredging operations. These huge dredges worked the goldfields, replacing the small individual miner of the gold rush and ensuring the viability of gold mining as a profitable business up until 1966.

(For a refresher course on dredges, go back to my post about Dredge No. 4.)

Parks Canada acquired the complex in 1975 but because of environmental concerns could not do too much with it. One of the biggest hazards is the mercury that was used in the gold extraction process. The cost of rehabilitating the site to make it safe for the public would be prohibitive. Today, Parks Canada mostly uses the buildings for storage, but there is one garage left for repairing big machinery.

Visiting the compound was an extraordinary experience. The majority of the buildings are in some stage of decay, mostly advanced, and many have artifacts left in situ, as though time has stood still. It reminded me a lot of touring Alcatraz, actually, and the weight of history was incredibly present.

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the mess hall

the mess hall

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the floors in the messhall undulate like fields of prairie wheat

the floors in the messhall undulate like fields of prairie wheat

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Parks Canada lumber storage

Parks Canada lumber storage

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the most impressive building--you open a very heavy and thick door into a dark and earthy-smelling tunnel. My camera's flash did too good a job here!

the most impressive building–you open a very heavy and thick door into a dark and earthy-smelling tunnel. My camera’s flash did too good a job here!

exterior of the root cellar

exterior of the root cellar

tailing

tailing

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that yellow never fails to take my breath away!

that yellow never fails to take my breath away!

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this machine was cast in Ohio!

this machine was cast in Ohio!

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decay

decay

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this cavernous building once held all manner of giant machinery

this cavernous building once held all manner of giant machinery

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a giant transformer

a giant transformer

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permafrost wreaking havoc in the tin shop

permafrost wreaking havoc in the tin shop

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55 cents a gallon!

55 cents a gallon!

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this building is obviously in modern use. :)

this building is obviously in modern use. 🙂

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incredible!

incredible!

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this tunnel is just about tall enough for me to crouch in!

this tunnel is just about tall enough for me to crouch in!

coming apart at the seams

coming apart at the seams

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exterior of the steno office

exterior of the steno office

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staff housing (doesn't look much better from the exterior than any of the other buildings!)

staff housing (doesn’t look much better from the exterior than any of the other buildings!)

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this shed holds 'props'

this shed holds ‘props’

the engineer's house

the engineer’s house

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this house surprised me with the number and size of rooms it contains, as well as the ample storage

this house surprised me with the number and size of rooms it contains, as well as the ample storage

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toilet room off a massive bathroom

toilet room off a massive bathroom

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news article about Neil Armstrong!

news article about Neil Armstrong!

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1962 calendar (I suspect it was planted here; seems in too good shape)

1962 calendar (I suspect it was planted here; seems in too good shape)

information about Bear Creek

information about Bear Creek

blank forms

blank forms

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wheelbarrow dug out of the permafrost

wheelbarrow dug out of the permafrost

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the staircase inside the welcome building is in surprisingly good shape

the staircase inside the welcome building is in surprisingly good shape

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the interior of the engineering building is in excellent condition

the interior of the engineering building is in excellent condition

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adding machine

adding machine

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I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to tour the Bear Creek compound. What a way to conclude my stay in the Klondike!

Summer With An Aircard

The internet is down again in the Yukon, and will be down for an indeterminate period of time. Obviously, you don’t see me whining about it, and I am trying really hard to feel sympathy for the poor souls dependent on Northwestel. 🙂

I discovered yesterday that there is a port on my aircard for an amplifier, which means that I could have possibly had even better service this summer! As it is, I can’t complain. Yes, my connection is slow and occasionally drops, but I’ve been without service a matter of hours only this summer and the only things I haven’t been able to do easily are stream video and download large files. I will look into getting a booster when I head south since they can apparently increase my coverage.

After a couple of months on the 2GB plan, I decided to just go all out and pay for the 5GB even though I’ve only ever used at most 2.5GB. I’m sure that if I had more speed that let me download more, I’d be able to max out the 5GB, but for now it’s nice to be able to just surf and not have to worry about my usage. The difference between the 2 and 5GB plan is a fraction of the cost of going over by 500mb every month, so paying for the extra GB is worth my while. I intend to continue my service in the upcoming months, never wanting to be reliant on park wi-fi ever again!

Dawson Countdown

I had The Talk with management this week about next summer and thankfully we are exactly on the same page. It was understood from the get go that I would probably not be coming back to Dawson next year, but if I did I would have a job of some sort.

Not coming back to Dawson?

I have absolutely no reason to. I’ve explored the area around here extensively. What I have left to explore would be best done from the more central location of Whitehorse. I’d like to see more of Alaska, drive the Campbell Highway, and tour the Silver Trail, for starters! Much as I dislike Whitehorse, there is no room in this life for sentimental attachments to locations. And in cold hard numbers, not coming back to Dawson means $500 in gas money in my pocket, money that I could apply to taking Miranda with me on some trips next year.

So, I’m leaving Dawson in a week! I cannot believe I’m down to exactly seven days left. It’s boggling, but I’m not in race mode. I’d like to go back to the Drunken Goat if I can, and, of course, Gerties, but otherwise I don’t feel like I’ll be leaving anything undone. My focus is on getting Miranda travel ready.

I will always have a home in Dawson and it is a place I look forward to coming back to several years from now, perhaps with my nephews and niece in tow. I leave with doors wide open and bridges intact, with fond memories of sweet ice cream and panoramic views, and without being thoroughly fed up with the limitations of services at the end of the world. It’s a great way to go. 🙂

The big question now is how am I going to manage my mail from next month onwards. I have a few phone calls to make to Whitehorse and I may end up having my mail held for months in some sort of limbo. I really saw these past two summers that I don’t get much mail worth paying attention to, so that may end up being the cheapest and easiest solution.

Troubleshooting RV Problems

This summer, I’ve felt confident enough in my RVing abilities to troubleshoot problems with other rigs. It’s nice to be able to pay forward all the help I received in my first months of RVing and to educate new RVers. RVs vary greatly, but I discovered that some causes of problems are universal and that most of these problems are minor if they are a problem at all. For example:

Black Tank Does Not Drain

Assumed cause: valve broken

Assumed solution: replace valve

Real cause: Solid waste impaction (black cone of death)

Real solution: Water. Lots of it. And driving around.

This was a rental rig and I suspected that it might have come with a black cone of death, as Miranda did, since the tiniest trickle of black water came out of the tank.

I closed the black valve, went into the rig and filled the black tank to the rim with water. Within minutes, the water level had gone down. This confirmed that there was a mess of solid waste plugging the valve. This waste absorbed the water. I told the couple to top of the tank with water again and to check the tank after driving around a bit. If the water had gone down again, they were to add water and then repeat the exercise until the water did not recede. Only then should they attempt to empty the black tank.

The next day, they called to let me know that the problem was solved. I then gave them my tips for managing the black tank.

No Hot Water

Assumed problem: water heater is broken

Assumed solution: sue the RV rental company

Real problem: there isn’t one

Real solution: explain that the RV heater won’t kick on when the water tank is full of hot water! Plus, it needs 12V power to work. See next problem.

Furnace Blowing Cold Air

Assumed problem: propane not flowing from the tank/broken propane system

Assumed solution: sue RV company

Real problem: discharged batteries

Real solution: plug in RV and educate about how long one can expect to boondock on a single 12V battery (hint: it’s less than four days). Also prove that the propane system is working fine by turning on all three burners at once.

Water Hose Leaking At Connection

Assumed problem: RV park hookup is missing an O-ring

Assumed solution: demand a refund from RV park and go somewhere else

Real problem: none, leaky connections are pretty much a fact of life, which is why teflon was invented

Real solution: add teflon to threads