The Sourtoe Cocktail Club

My evening went something like this:

It was a bit cooler after 8 so I decided to take the bike out and maybe even go into town to see how easy it is to get into town by bike.

I met a very nice lawyer from California who is motorbiking around the north and staying in a tent set up next to my car. Talk lead to more talk and an invitation to join him and another gentleman at the Downtown Hotel for a special Dawson City drink around nine.

Which is how I found myself kissing a mummified human toe floating in Yukon Jack whiskey and becoming an official inductee of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club. I’m proud to say I went first!

The pictures in this gallery are not for the faint of heart. Bwa ha ha.

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he just made a dirty (and obviously hysterical) joke)

he just made a dirty (and obviously hysterical) joke)

down the hatch (loved the whisky!)

down the hatch (loved the whisky!)

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(And, yes, I am reasonably confident in saying that it IS a human toe and not a prank pulled by locals on tourists.)

Whitehorse to Carmacks

I got up at six on Tuesday morning and decided that Starbucks was going to make me breakfast (dark brewed coffee with space for a little bit of milk and a chocolate croissant, please and thank you). I gassed up at the best price I’d seen in a while (101.9) and hit the road at quarter to seven (unheard of for me!).

The day’s mileage would be about 500km and I decided to drive it as though I only had half of that to go. So, I stopped everywhere that looked interesting, did hikes, took advantage of photo ops, and had a good lunch break. It was another great day on the road.

First stop was Little Fox Lake:

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Next stop was the Montague Roadhouse:

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In the days when stage coaches and sleds were the only way of going from Whitehorse to the Klondike, roadhouses like these dotted the landscape and provided refuges for weary travelers, offering food and lodging.

The inside of the log structure was covered with muslin to lighten the interior and also keep the chinking from falling into the rooms. This ruin is about a hundred years old and, yet, some of that muslin is still visible:

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The roadhouse in its heyday:

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I then paused just long enough in Carmacks, ‘the hub of the Yukon’, to get a picture of its beautiful welcome sign mosaic:

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Teslin to Whitehorse

Monday dawned cool and sunny with hardly a whisper of wind, promising optimal driving conditions. I took advantage of the free RV wash to hose down the rig, but the dust was so engrained that I only got a bit off. I knew it wasn’t worth scrubbing since I was just going to get dirty again. There were a couple of museums to see on the way out of town, but neither was open yet, so they’ll be hit on the way back.

Teslin was a great spot for a respite; quite, picturesque, friendly. I definitely recommend stopping there for at least an overnight!

The drive to Whitehorse was like being caught in a Stan Rogers song. It was also my best day on the road in a long time. Rae finally got her groove back. 🙂

If I'd had the option, I would have 'hit the 4-wheel drive at Johnson's Crossing'

If I’d had the option, I would have ‘hit the 4-wheel drive at Johnson’s Crossing’

Stopped for lunch and this made me laugh:

(so's the Yukon, obviously!)

(so’s the Yukon, obviously!)

Shortly after lunch, I left the Alaska Highway, turning off it at Jake’s Corner to take the fabled Carcross Road. It would take me to the Klondike highway, which would take me back to the AH for a bit and into Whitehorse. My main reason for wanting to do this detour was because I was tired of seeing Emerald Lake on calendars:

Emerald Lake

Emerald Lake

Unfortunately, there were not many opportunities to pull over and take pictures on this beautiful stretch of road, so the drive remains ingrained in my memory. It was a great detour, with roads in fantastic condition that wound in and out of the mountains. The largest town I passed was Tagish, former home of my immediate neighbour in Oliver.

When I reached the Klondike Highway, I found myself at more than just the crossroads of two highways, but also at a crossroads in my life. My gut roiled at the thought of spending June in Whitehorse. I hadn’t slaved away in Oliver all last fall or lived the spring old-life-style to spend yet another month in a large city. Just like that, I decided to just stop overnight in Whitehorse and push on the next day to where I really wanted to spend June. I wouldn’t know it for sure until the next day, but something switched over in me at that moment.

Whitehorse was hot, dusty, and noisy. I was not prepared for the torrid heat in the least and scrambled to find a lighter-weight skirt, camisole, and sandals!

The Whitehorse Walmart allows overnight parking with a sign telling RVers where they can park. The only long spot I found was along Quartz Road, a busy thoroughfare, so I knew I was in for a long night. I would either boil to death in quiet by leaving the windows and hatches closed, or be cool and deafened. Civilization really wasn’t that much to be cracked up about!

First stop was the Starbucks just across from the rig (go ahead, laugh) for an iced cinnamon dolcé latté which I sipped on the terasse while I planned my evening in Whitehorse and my drive the next day.

Then, I did a bunch of errands, getting stocked up on kitty litter and other necessities better bought in bulk at Walmart than in small grocery stores.

Dinner was to be pizza, something I’d been craving for weeks, and research told me that  Bocelli’s was the only authentic pizza place in town. It was only about 2km from the Walmart, so I was able to walk there.

It was a quiet Monday night and a bit early for dinner, so the owner, Midge, and I had time for a good chat as she whipped me up a delicious cheese pizza (accompanied by an ice cold beer). Turns out she’s from the same part of Canada as I am! I’d introduced myself as being from Ottawa and she said she was from Quebec, but that I wouldn’t know the town. I sure did, it’s only 60km from the town where I grew up and I passed it when driving from Ottawa to Montreal to visit family! What a small country, LOL!

I had a relaxed evening at home, watching a movie and reading and went to bed early so I could be on the road early as I wanted to reach my next destination in one shot. I needn’t have worried about getting up early as I did not get a wink of sleep, dozing on and off during that long night.

The Yukon River

The Yukon River

Sign Post Forest and Wye Lake

I drove into Watson Lake this afternoon to take a gander at the town, especially the famed Sign Post Forest:

A tiny sample of the more than 65,000 signs in Sign Post Forest

A tiny sample of the more than 65,000 signs in Sign Post Forest

The Sign Post Forest was started by a homesick GI building the Alaska highway in ’42:

The original sign post (reconstructed)

The original sign post

What struck me as I walked through the forest was from how far some of these signs had been hauled, including all over Europe and the Americas:

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In case that's not clear, these folks drove from Guatemala (C.A.=Central America) to Alaska. WOW!

In case that’s not clear, these folks drove from Guatemala (C.A.=Central America) to Alaska. WOW!

Or not hauled, but the people still came from across the sea (and were quite creative):

A Sterilite container lid marked up by a family from Holland

A Sterilite container lid marked up by a family from Holland

I was also surprised to discover that I couldn’t stare at one section without seeing a sign that reminded me of a place I’ve lived or visited:

Mt. Baldy is the ski hill near Oliver and the first time I set foot in Virginia was to visit Arlington.

Mt. Baldy is the ski hill near Oliver and the first time I set foot in Virginia was to visit Arlington.

Fond memories of camping at Lake George (upstate New York) with my family

Fond memories of camping at Lake George (upstate New York) with my family

I lived near Bobcaygeon for nine months and enjoyed showing my dad the sights in this quaint village.

I lived near Bobcaygeon for nine months and enjoyed showing my dad the sights in this quaint village.

Menomonee Falls was one of my many stops on the Great Road Trip of '05

Menomonee Falls was one of my many stops on the Great Road Trip of ’05

Nepean (green sign, bottom right above the yellow) is home of the Ottawa Municipal Campground, from whence I set off my RVing journey

Nepean (green sign, bottom right above the yellow) is home of the Ottawa Municipal Campground, from whence I set off my RVing journey

Trying to remember what brought me to Wiarton all those years ago

Trying to remember what brought me to Wiarton all those years ago

I stopped in Black Diamond when I was touring Kanaskis Country in September '08

I stopped in Black Diamond when I was touring Kanaskis Country in September ’08

There were several more that stuck out at me, and this was just from random browsing without doing any in depth scanning. Visiting Sign Post Forest was a real trip down memory lane!

The Watson Lake Visitor Info Centre is located in the heart of the Forest. Staff is very friendly and helpful. I was surprised that they were open so late on a Sunday! There is a small gallery there about the building of the Alaska highway as well as a movie. Unlike the similar exhibits in Dawson Creek, these were Canadian-centric. I was surprised to learn that the U.S. did not wait for Canadian approval to start work on the highway. So, the Americans really did literally invade Canada! Thankfully, we’re pretty laid back… or Prime Minster Mackenzie King knew we couldn’t afford to go to war against the U.S., again, for invading us, again (even though we kicked their butts last time, but that’s another story altogether–Google the War of 1812).

I took a picture of this sign because find the sentiment to be so true:

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You don’t miss comforts if you’re long enough without them.

It was getting on dinner time by this point and I had a twenty minute drive back home, so I just stopped quickly to check out Wye Lake. It’s time to point out here that you don’t actually see Watson Lake from the town, only Wye Lake! As for Wye Lake it was named because it occurs in the centre of the ‘Y’ in the roads around it.

Wye Lake

Wye Lake

The other main tourist attraction in Watson Lake is a planetarium called the Northern Lights Centre, but it won’t be open until at least Tuesday, so I’m not sure I’ll get to see it this time around. The rest of what’s to be done in the area involves being out in nature: hiking, hunting, boating, fishing, that sort of thing. Watson Lake is a full service community with a few restaurants, a bank (CIBC, yay!), a grocery store, a few gas stations, ample choice in accomodation, a good hospital, an RCMP station, etc.

While at the Visitor’s Centre, I met some gals on a long weekend road trip. When I got home, I decided to have dinner at the lodge and as I was eating the gals traipsed in in search of good grub. They asked me to join them and we had a blast talking about my travels. That’s one nice thing about being a solo traveler; you get to meet so many wonderful people!

With dinner, I continued to discover the local brews, finding the most perfect beer ever: Midnight Sun Espresso Ale by the Yukon Brewing Company. Beer and coffee together in one beverage. Perfection. 😀

Thankfully, it’s getting warmer!

Coquitlam to Chilliwack

Ready to Go, Unable to Leave

Miranda’s inisde was prepped and ready to go by 10:30 Friday night, but it took almost 2 hours for me to wind down enough to go to bed. I awoke around 5, my brain racing with everything I needed to do, but I was too exhausted to get up. I dozed and dragged myself out of bed around 7:30.

The day was brutal, but kind at the same time. For all I was inconvenienced, I was doubly convenienced. It wasn’t a great day, but, sum told, it was more exhausting than bad.

Finishing up exterior preparations didn’t take long. I could have pulled out at 8:30, but since I was waiting for Rack Attack to open at ten, I took my time.

When ten finally rolled around, I called the store in Vancouver and explained the situation to them. They were apologetic, claiming it was their fault that the clerk forgot that I needed a ‘stretch kit’, something that Thule doesn’t spell out but he ‘should have known.’ Yeah, blame the poor kid instead of the idiot manufacturers! He made arrangements with the store in Coquitlam for me, but warned me that I might have to wait several hours because I would need to be squeezed through between appointments. That was fine, I decided that I would simply drop off the car and go do with Miranda what needed to be done to Miranda.

I thought that I would never get out of Pacific Border! Miranda’s battery simply would not charge enough to get her started and I finally had to boost her. She still had her original 1997 battery, so, with a sigh, I added a stop at Canadian Tire for a new battery to my list of things to do. The sigh was more about the added stop than expenditure.

First stop was gas and propane. I really needed gas and fretted that I would be unable to start Miranda again after fueling up. I was right. Instead of acting like my independent self and unhooking the toad to give myself a boost, I asked for help, which I received grudgingly. So, propane was out of the question; there was no way I was turning off Miranda again until I had to!

Gas was cheap when compared to last fall. I filled Miranda up for under two hundred dollars. It once cost me over two hundred fifty to fill her.

The drive to Coquitlam was uphill and, thus, SLOW. Miranda made her awful grinding, but perfectly normal, engine noise all the way and I had to keep reminding myself that I could relax, that noise is a Good Thing!

Rack Attack

Getting to Rack Attack was quite a sport; there was some sort of police auction going on and both sides of the road were packed with cars. I just managed to pull into their lot and practically had to drive into a dumpster to get the rig straight enough to unhook.

The clerk told me that it would take about three hours to get me set up. That was fine, I suspected that the Miranda stuff would take at least as long. I asked him if, at the end of the day, he would be able to help me get the kayak on the roof and fully installed. He said yes, but that he would have to charge me the installation fee. Fine. At this point, I was already going to pay another 200$, less a 20% inconvenience discount, to get this kayak transported, so I chose convenience.

Mr. Lube

It took a bit of manoeuvring to back Miranda out of their lot, but I was soon off to the nearest Mr. Lube, about six or seven kilometres from Rack Attack. I knew the Mr. Lube on Fraser Highway in Langley could accommodate motorhomes, but didn’t want to assume anything so I’d called ahead to confirm with this one that they could take me.

I was apprehensive when I arrived because the entrance was tight, but they were waiting for me and had already figured out how they were going to get me in and out of the bay. It was such a lovely greeting, with a ‘welcome, ma’am, we’ve been expecting you!’ and then the giving of a newspaper and the offer of coffee and water (both gratefully accepted). I love these oil change places; they really know what customer service means, they are convenient, and, yet, their prices are quite competitive.

They were forthright and professional with me the whole hour and a bit I was there, telling me that a ‘basic’ oil change would be just fine instead of trying to upsell me to a fancy package, but informing me sadly that I badly needed a new battery and a rear differential oil change. I knew about the former and been forewarned about the latter, so I wasn’t as surprised as they expected me to be.

I was there, they had the parts, and they were willing to do the labour, so I just had everything done right then and there. A battery, installed, was 165$, which, really, isn’t that much worse than buying one at Canadian Tire and getting it installed. Sometimes, money is less important than is the energy that would have otherwise needed to be expended. The bill wasn’t pretty, but was right on par with what I’d been told her first tune up ‘should’ cost, so I didn’t fall out of my chair. It was pretty funny to be sitting in a garage in my house! The mechanics jokingly said that I was pretty rude, not inviting them in for tea!

Kal Tire

Next stop was Kal Tire, just across the road from Rack Attack. They had told me it would cost 12$ per tire to get the pressure checked and topped up, which I knew was exorbitant, but I wasn’t sure how to do it myself, so I figured that I would watch and learn, then do it myself next time. Yes, I admit it: I’ve thus far relied on other people to make sure that my tires are properly inflated. One learning curve at a time… 🙂

I rolled in there just past two and the gal at the counter told me that they had just accepted their last vehicle for the day. My face must have fallen, so she went around back to speak to the tech. He agreed to take me in even though his shift was over. Have I mentioned recently how much I love Kal Tire???

At any rate, even though Miranda had been sitting for four months, only two of her rear tires, so two out of six, were really low; the others were in the range of ‘fine.’ The tech explained to me what part to get to make the inner tires accessible so that I can check my own pressure next time.

On the radio these days, there is an ad for Goodyear tires and Fountain Tire stores in which a guy proudly proclaims that he is on his ‘cross-country Fountain Tire RV tour.’ So, I joked that I was on my ‘cross-country Kal Tire RV tour’, explaining that I’d been to the ones in Brandon and Regina. The laugh I got told me that he understood the joke.

It took about fifteen minutes for him to check and top up everything and then he wished me a good day. So much for getting a bill! Thank you, Kal Tire, you guys are GREAT!

Departure at Last!

The Rack Attack clerk had said he would call me when he was done, but I hadn’t heard yet from him. I decided to head back there and chill out until the car was ready. In one of those movie-perfect bits of timing, I pulled into Rack Attack just as the work was completed. Thankfully, the police auction was wrapping up and I was able to park Miranda on the street, with plenty of place behind her to line up the car for easy hooking up. The tech helped me get the boat out of the house and safely onto the car.

Ready to go, at last!

Ready to go, at last!

What awesome service I got today; a solid three for three. I was tired and cranky, but this really made the day pass by much more nicely than it could have. It was also easier to get the oil change and tire work done without the car hooked up because a lot of backwards manoeuvring was required. So, I would have have to dump the car somewhere anyway.

It was well past three when I pulled out of Rack Attack, so I decided to shoot for the Walmart in Chilliwack. You might remember that this was the first place I stopped in January when I came over from Oliver!

heading EAST on the Transcanada towards Chilliwack

heading EAST on the Transcanada towards Chilliwack

heading EAST on the Transcanada towards Chilliwack

heading EAST on the Transcanada towards Chilliwack

Chilliwack

My first order of business was propane. This was my first time fully filling Miranda’s tank, so I was unprepared for the bill. Thirty-seven dollars and change. Really?!

I could see RVs parked in the parking lot of not only the Walmart, but also the mall across Luckakuck street, so I tucked myself in out of the way without asking for anyone’s permission. It was just shy of five and I hadn’t had any real food all day, so when I saw an Earl’s restaurant across the street, I decided that a dinner out was in order. This decision was mostly fueled by the fact that Earl’s makes the best mojito I have ever enjoyed and I really, really, really wanted a drink. 🙂

After dinner, I bought some stuff for breakfast and lunch tomorrow, then came home and started to write this post. At some point, I decided to go see a movie if there was a theatre close by. I don’t do that often, go to a movie when I stop somewhere. In fact, I think the only other time I did it was in Brandon! But I felt the rig was safe and that no one would steal the kayak off my car, so I asked Majel if there was a cinema within walking distance, and there was, just a half kilometre away! Majel often has the phone numbers of the locations she brings up (!) so I as able to use the cell to call the theatre to find out what’s playing.

The choices were pathetic–two teeny-bopper comedies, an adult comedy, and… oh, what’s this? A superhero origin story? I knew nothing about X-Men, but love superhero origin stories, so I decided to give ‘Wolverine’ a try. I enjoyed it very much, enough to make me want to seek out the X-Men movies so that I can better understand what I just saw. I can also say that any American movie that opens in Canada, has both its protagonist and antagonist be Canadians, and has the bulk of its story happen in Canada earns a plus in my book. 🙂

So, it’s now 9:30 and raining gently. I put a garbage bag over the seat of the kayak and hope it stays in place. Otherwise, I’m very relaxed and relishing the irony that I’ll have more privacy tonight than I’ve had in months. I don’t miss having neighbours. I just hope I can get used to the noise!

Aha, wrote too soon! Another rig just pulled up beside me. I actually prefer it that way in the sense that there is safety in numbers and I feel more legitimate when I’m not alone.

Chilliwack is set in one of the prettiest surroundings I’ve seen since Cochrane Alberta!

Walmart with a view!

Walmart with a view!

Walmart with a view!

Walmart with a view!

Walmart with a view!

Walmart with a view!