Religious Sites/Cemeteries

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Stirling Castle and Falkirk

8:34 AM

A note from yesterday: I rode on a second floor of a double decker bus on the way back from the Bannockburn Heritage Centre! Sure, it wasn’t a red one (it was cream and blue), but it was cool riding up there! The view was magnificent!!!

I’ve had a good morning. The breakfast here was great and served with a smile and ‘good morning’. Rather than icky processed cheese, we were offered a strong, white, real cheese. Of course, there was too much for one meal, so I have lunch too! (Great money saver, making two meals out of breakfast, but I did feel a little silly carrying a sandwich through the hostel! At least, I had baggies!)

It’s too early to ‘do’ anything so I think I’ll head for the bus station to enquire about buses to and from Falkirk as well as buses to Melrose. (Don’t ask when a decision between going to Ayr or Dumfries led to a decision to go to Melrose!)

Time?

I’ve misplaced and most likely lost my watch, darn it! (It was just a cheap one I use for travelling. The bracelet broke during my Ben Nevis climb, and I was just carrying the time piece in my pocket. I did end up finding the watch later that evening.)

After 5, most likely 7ish.

Mighty impregnable Stirling castle. Not much of it remains. What’s left dates from the time of the Stewarts (about the sixteenth century). The oldest feature of the castle is from the reign of Robert II (late fourteenth). Unfortunately, the castle is under going major restoration so a lot of it was inaccessible and what was accessible had yet to be restored! Still, it was fun walking the ramparts, almost crawling into dungeons.

Included in the price of the castle ticket was ‘Argyll’s Lodging’, a fine Renaissance home. I got to explore at my leisure.

Then came the Old Town Jail. Now that was worth £2!!! My tour included myself and a guy from Holland, so it was even better. One man enacted several characters very convincingly (you’d forget it was the same guy playing each part!). The jail was reminiscent of the Ottawa-Carleton jail.

Then, a bus to Falkirk (Scots for ‘speckled church’, isn’t that bonnie?) where I visited Callendar House. I went for the battle of 1298 exhibition and am glad there was other stuff, too, because the exhibition wasn’t great. It was more of a ‘Braveheart’ exhibition and pre-wars of Independence show than anything else. They had a reproduction of the Wallace ‘portrait’.

But the rest of the museum! 1) a working Georgian kitchen where I sampled sponge cake and a lettuce and spinach soup, which was very palatable ! 2) a clock maker’s shop where, in costume, using old tools, a man repairs clocks for the museum. 3) a general store where we sampled ‘sucre d’orge’ [barley sugar, a rock hard candy]. 4) a printer’s shop. Of course, there was more to the museum than that, but I really like the living history ‘stuff’.

Since no one knows where the battle really happened, I didn’t bother heading for the ‘Wallacestone’ where Wallace was supposed to have commanded the battle.

Returning to the bus station, I asked about Melrose. ‘The Borders?!’ the man exclaimed (not rudely). I could have sworn I said a bad name/word, etc!!! Turns out no buses run there, so I was told to go to the train station. ‘Take a train to Berwick (England!!!)’ That would have cost £19 and I would still have to catch a local bus to Melrose! So, tomorrow, I’ll head back to the bus station and ask about other places of interest, Ayr, most likely. I have to be frugal! It’s sort of pleasant not knowing where I’m heading to next. I just have to make sure I have a bed at the other end!

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Perth to Stirling, the Wallace Monument, and Bannockburn

11:43 am

I’m sitting by an oak tree planted on 11th Sept, 1997, ‘the 700th Anniversary of William Wallace and Andrew Moray’s decisive triumph at The Battle of Stirling Bridge’.

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I am sitting, gazing in awe at the site of the Battle of Stirling Bridge. Straight ahead, I see the Abbey Craig and Sir William’s monument. It is a long way to the monument, but not a trek. It is a sacred pilgrimage that only too few could understand. It is peaceful here now. The grass is neat and green, trees dot the field. But the monument in view serves as a reminder that the Scots will not be usurped.

I’ll be on my way, now, with a lump in my throat and my heart heavy at the thought of the thousands of casualties—on both sides of the border—who died for a proud ideal of conquest and a proud ideal of freedom. Scotland the Brave.

12:45 pm.

After a strenuous uphill trek that almost makes Ben Nevis look easy (let’s not exaggerate) I’m standing (actually sitting) as close as I’ll ever come to the Wallace statue. The wind up here is phenomenal, so I’ll go in. I truly feel I have reached my Holy Land.

6:26 pm

Wallace’s mighty claymore… as simple as the man who held it was courageous. There was great video presentation in the form of ‘Wallace’s Trial’, a special video screen in the shape of a man’s face was attached to a body. It was most convincing. ‘Wallace’ spoke much as I would have imagined he’d speak (in terms of choice of words). I learned one new thing about Wallace: as Guardian, he began dismantling the feudal system in Scotland to replace it with a fairer system based on Ancient Greece and Rome.

I must admit that the climb up a very narrow spiralling staircase was terrifyingly enclosing. Had the various landings been any further apart, I doubt I could have made it up to the fantastic crown and its glorious view over the environs. (The sky had cleared, seemingly for me!) Getting down was worse, my head was spinning as I inched my way down and people squeezed their way up. (That staircase was one of the most negative experiences in my trip. I really do have a mild case of claustrophobia.)

I enjoyed a wee lunch in the tea room after. Unlike American and Canadian museums, Scottish museums don’t seem to…um… inflate the prices of meals offered in their restaurants.

After? A walk back to Stirling bus station and a bus to the Bannockburn Heritage Centre. I felt something different there, as I crossed the field of Bannockburn to Bruce’s enormous equestrian statue. My ancestors died there alongside their King and friend. In a sense, my blood was spilled on that battlefield. Both monuments were sobering moments, but it was at Bannockburn that I finally realised the pride that one feels at being allowed to wear the Bruce tartan.

Something in me has changed now that I have achieved the main goal of my pilgrimage to Scotland. It is as when I walked the Plains of Abraham in Quebec City. I cannot explain the feeling, but it is a special one indeed. Perhaps it is the knowledge that I have stood where history dramatically changed its course (although I sometimes feel that history’s course is set) and where the destiny of nations was forged. I used to say that Colorado was the most spiritual experience of my life. Scrap that. Walking the fields of Stirling and Bannockburn are far more so.

I’m glad I have chosen to spend two nights in this converted church (The Scottish Youth Hostel). It’s £11.50/night with breakfast, but I have one night free. Incredible that when I tried to book ahead I couldn’t get one here, and when I arrived on the spot, there was one! It helps that I arrived before 10:00AM.

So tomorrow, the old town jail and the castle. Perhaps a (very) quick run to Falkirk if there’s time. It is the 700th anniversary of that decisive (for Wallace) battle.

Now, for a major digression—a note on Fort William, of all places, as well as Glasgow. In Glasgow, I was greeted with bagpipes and despite the city’s similarities with Montreal, I knew I was in Scotland. In Fort William, I was greeted with a polka festival. Felt like I was in the Ukraine or Eastern Europe! The moral of this story? Scotland is a cosmopolitan country. She is a modern country trapped in an ancient land. She is beautiful and vibrant, peaceful and serene. No, the Scots are not (historically speaking, of course) barbarians. Who would not fight for all the Scots have? You know what? The English are/were just jealous!!!

A week from today, my trip will be over. Note to self, call the airport Friday. But I won’t be done with Scotland, far from it! There’s so much I won’t have time to see: Kildrummy, Aberdeen, Dundee, and Glamis Castle, St. Andrews, Cambuskenneth Abbey… The list grows longer every day. Still, I have seen more than enough. Besides, I want there to be something for me to come back to!

As the days go by, I find myself getting more and more used to the routine (perhaps I should put that in quote marks. The only routine is packing and unpacking, saying hello and goodbye, going place to place.) of travelling. ‘Home’ and all its luxuries seems so far away. Slowly, this is becoming real life. I’m not ready to go back, far from it. All I really miss from back there are green vegetables and tofu! But, I see the money slowly trickling to nothingness, I have just a little more than I initially budgeted for, but my expenses have begun to increase. Thank goodness for self-catering! (A ‘little’ more than I had initially budgeted for?! I would find out a few days later that I had almost a full £100 more than I thought in the bank!)

8:56

I’m in the common room and a light keeps flickering on and off, ‘tinkling’ as it does! A music and light show all in 1!

I love Stirling! I do! I do! I do! It just gives off the most incredibly good vibes. I had planned to go for a short stroll around the hostel grounds (a cemetery), but ended up on a longish stroll around town! I found the castle and cannot wait to visit it! The jail looks promising also. Stirling is the first place where I’ve wished I could stay ‘forever’, the first place I’ve wanted to ‘do’ completely before moving on. Still, I want to move on and I’m trying to decide on the next place to go. It’s either Ayr or Dumfries. I guess it’ll depend on available beds and ease to get there.

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Edinburgh Castle and a Wild Night on the Town

5:30 pm

Edinburgh… I came to Scotland expecting to dislike Glasgow and fall in love with Edinburgh. The opposite happened. Edinburgh is cold, creepy, dirty, and smelly. It’s full of steep cobblestone streets and dank closes. Yuck. Blech. I can’t say I’m disappointed since I wasn’t really expecting anything but what I mentioned at the beginning of this entry. Still, I never anticipated this ‘malaise’ that walking these streets brings.

I did have a perfectly incredible day, though. It took me almost 3.5 hours to get through Edinburgh Castle (a walloping £6—but worth it!!!) The entrance fee includes an audio tour. There was so much material I ended up skipping some of the less interesting (to me) bits.

I can’t believe how emotional I got when I entered an exhibition that eventually led to a chamber holding the Scottish honours and the Stone of Destiny. First, there was a mural of each Scottish monarch up to and including Robert I, then there was a statue of the coronation of Robert I. I almost broke down seeing all this history I’ve been studying come to life. And when I came face to face with the Honours themselves…

But that was nothing compared to how I felt walking into St-Margaret’s chapel. She’s my ‘favourite’ Queen and to stand where she prayed… I also saw the chamber where Mary Stewart’s son James (1st and 6th) was born. Wow. At one point, a guard noticed how, um, awestruck I was, standing by the walls listening to recordings of a history I know very well, and asked if I was okay. I could only nod. If this is how I react to Edinburgh Castle, can you imagine me at Stirling and Bannockburn?!

After, I walked around for hours looking for cheap grub. I ended up having pizza at a decent price. After, I saw the grave of ‘Grey Friar’s Bobby’ as well as that of his master John Gray. Then, I nosed through a used book shop and ended an exhausting day at the Royal Museum for a 1.5 hour whirlwind tour of the most amazing collection of stuff I’ve ever seen (even in my own room!!!).

I hadn’t sat down since I left at 9 :00 this morning (not even for lunch!), so I figured it was time to come in and get off my feet for a few hours. I think I pulled a muscle at one point during my Ben Nevis adventure. Going down stairs has been excruciating today. Oh, and in the Edinburgh castle gift shop, I found my favourite whisky to date. It’s sweet and not too ‘alcoholicky’. It’s name? Unbelievably: Wallace, and made at Stirling!!!

Tomorrow, I’d like to try the Whisky Heritage Centre. I really am growing fond of the stuff! The lady who offered a very wee dram of ‘Wallace’ didn’t seem too keen to answer my questions about the whisky like: how’s it made? what type is it? etc. Either she didn’t know or she couldn’t be bothered with someone who was obviously new to the whisky tasting business.

One thing I find unbelievable about staying here is how late the sun sets and how early it rises. I mean, there were still red streaks in the sky at 12:30 AM and when I woke up at 5:00, the sun was totally up! By 7:00, it was quite literally cooking me!

June 27th, 1998 1:17 AM (note that technically this is the same day!)

Well… I’ve had a most unusual night (for me, for others it was really quite normal). It started at a pub around 8 where 3 of us got carded. We chose to leave and actually had to search for another one! In Scotland, imagine ! Anyway, we found one and settled down to watch the match (by the way, ‘us’ refers to the 3 South African girls and on Australian guy, Jason, and me).

In my case, a pint of Guinness later, we headed off to the Mercat Cross at Saint Giles in order to join a tour about Edinburgh’s creepy, supernatural, and darker side.

We were led down into these catacomb like vaults where our guide succeeded in scaring us s—s by telling us about supposed malevolent spirits, etc. down there. Let’s just say that the place was claustrophobic (to say the least) and gave off very bad vibes. I was glad to end the tour at a cemetery where the vibes were better.

The tour then dispersed and we (the gang I’d been following all night) ended up on a bench outside the cemetery where we shared a joint (my first).

After that, we headed back for the pub that had carded us. Only two of us ordered drinks (I couldn’t afford anything else by that point!), but Jason got fed up with his Guinness (it was like his fourth that night!) and I ended up finishing it for him. By that time, I was loosened up to the max, but I’d had enough ‘fun’ for the night. They wanted to go clubbing, so we went our separate ways.

I enjoyed this evening very much (although I was worried about getting caught by the authorities with the ‘you-know-what’) but I’d had enough. The lifestyle is brainnumbing! To think that my idea of ‘fun’ is a movie (at home) and my knitting! It still is, but I’ve tasted another world. I wouldn’t want to join it with any regularity, but now I know that occasionally it can be rather enjoyable to almost let down the little hair I have!

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Day Trip to Orkney

8:07 am

I’m on my way to the Orkneys!!! The Eastern coast of the Highlands is lush and green, very fertile, I’m told. This area is known the ‘Black Isle’, only it’s a peninsula, not an island. The guide says that, being so close to the sea, it snows very little, if at all, here.

It’s the North Sea…

8:34

I’ve just left Ross for Sutherland

8:40

Dunrobin Castle. Early 14th century, longest continually inhabited castle in all of Britain.

So many sheep!

11:38

Orkney is so beautiful!!! She looks a lot like Scotland, but even more rugged. There’s no heather as far as I can see. The North Sea is deep blue, but near the shore she’s pure turquoise. The voyage here (by ferry) took exactly 45 min, the water was relatively calm and it was freezing. Luckily, I was appropriately dressed!

The water is patchy, some turquoise, some dark blue. Several beaches look like they should be in the Caribbean! They are pure white sand leading to turquoise infinity!

12:17 pm.

Skara Brae. Lots of heather here. Still, it’s obvious somehow that we’re no longer on the ‘main land’. The islands are for the most part uninhabited, but you do get the occasional fair sized village. In Kirkwall, for example, there is a cinema and a fancy car dealership (why ‘dealership’ and not ‘car store’?)

1:33 pm

I’m so far from ‘home’! (As I walked through the wind and ocean swept cobblestone streets of Stromness, Orkney, the incessant buzz of a ‘strange’ accent in my ears, I came to the realisation of how far away I was from Canada.) Yet, not so far away. I mean, I found a shop that had ‘Backstreet Boys’ memorabilia on the window ! I enjoyed a delicious vegetable broth (90p) at a tiny café. I figure that any place where the soup is ‘always suitable for vegetarians’ is worth encouraging! (and I discovered another use for barley!) I had some kind of delicious chocolate iced cake for dessert (35p). For dinner tonight, I’ve ordered sandwiches offered by the tour. (£2) Stromness is beautiful, all stone and cobblestone. You wouldn’t know driving streets are driving streets until you saw a car carefully inching its way down past pedestrians. The accent here is almost incomprehensible. It took me a while to get lunch ordered!

2:15 Ring of Brodgar

Older than Stonehenge. Nice pile of rocks. Tried to tip a few over. Didn’t work! Up there, it feels like the top of the world. I can easily imagine thousands of half-clad men performing some ritual over 5,000 years ago. Very beautiful ring with a mat of heather in the centre.

Swans!

Orkney—a self-contained world?

A house with a boat as a roof! (The hull of the ship was used to roof the house. Supposedly, it’s rather common in fishing communities in the islands.)

Honest to goodness street sign: ‘otters crossing’!!!

2:48 pm.

Highland Park Distillery—northernmost in Britain. I prefer their whisky to that of Edradour. Here, it’s actually kind of smokey. Sure warms up the insides! I think that last big sip went right to my head, which explains the worse than usual writing!

4:07 pm

My wildest medieval related dream/fantasy has come true!!! I have walked freely through the ruins of a mostly early 12th century castle!!! By freely, I mean I had access to every part of the castle/palace that wasn’t a public danger. I climbed the equivalent of 4 flights of narrow, twisting, flagstone stairs to the top of a watch tower. But, that’s not all!!! I also wandered even more freely through the ruins of an early 16th century palace/castle. This one had plaques indicating the purpose of each room, one room was tiny and unlit, but I could see a plaque. ‘It’s probably the latrine closet’ I thought gleefully as I pulled out my handy flashlight. I was right! It was so cool wandering through ante-chambers, kitchens, dining halls, great halls, bedrooms, latrine closets, narrow winding turret stairs, etc. And it only cost £1.50 pound for both. Oh, and I also wandered through an early 12th century cathedral!!!!!!! As a medievalist, this made my whole Orkney tour ‘worth it’ !

7:11 pm

I’ll never regret this day, but I don’t know if I’d do it again, it’s a hell of a lot of travel ! I mean 2 ½-3 hours to John O’Groats, exactly 45 min ferry ride, then the grand tour of Orkney for the trip home. Whew ! ! However, I think this trip was an excellent compromise between getting to Orkney on my own and missing out on other ‘stuff’ in the south and not going to Orkney at all. I could live there, it’s not the barren isle I thought it would be. The Orkney archipelago has several bustling towns and all the modern conveniences on several of her islands. My favourite quote of the day by our guide: ‘To the left, the North Atlantic. Next stop: America.’!!!

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Tomorrow: Skye.

(This entry conveniently leaves out the part where I almost got seasick from too much whisky on an empty stomach while crossing a choppy North Sea!)

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Exploring Glasgow and on to Edinburgh

About 8:25 AM.

J’ai fait le ‘tour de l’horloge’. That is, I slept from 7:30pm to 7:30 am (interrupted, of course, but only briefly). Why don’t I feel refreshed? Because my body says that it’s early morning! But, since I got up at ‘normal’ G.T., I’ll most likely go to bed at a normal time and wake up on time tomorrow!  Breakfast was great. I haven’t spent any money this morning and I have in me a full bowl of Alpen cereal, two glasses (warmish, but very tolerable) milk, one glass powdered O.J. (icky), and two sandwiches (1 whole wheat, the other yummy white) composed of cheese (processed, naturally…!) apricot marmalade ,and real butter. Now that’s an ideal breakfast for the type of day ahead! None of that American sweetroll ‘crap’. I’m all set to go to the city centre, now. It seems that the Necropolis doesn’t have an opening time. The cathedral (me going to church?!) opens at 9:30. It’s 8:28 (am) now, so by the time I get going it’ll be about 9:00. The walk to the city centre I’m told takes 30-45 minutes, so I should be arriving just as everything opens. I think that I might spend the morning in the city centre, then hike back to see the transport museum this afternoon. I’ll see.

My first ‘real’ morning in Scotland (ie. awaking in bed!) is bright and sunny, a few harmless clouds can be seen in the distance. It looks coldish, though. Anyway, later, I’m anxious to go and explore!

P.S. glad to see I got over the depression?!

10:35 am

I just finished touring the Glasgow Cathedral and its cemetery. This church was constructed during the Middle Ages and finished a few centuries later. I touched stone that was cut by a man who lived in the 12th century!  Contrary to North American equivalents, we could go everywhere and touch everything in this cathedral with one minor exception.  The cemetery is so old that most of the names have disappeared from the stone. The oldest I’ve seen is mid-eighteenth century. (The oldest gravestone I saw during my month long stay in Scotland was mid-fifteenth century! It is a St. Kentigern’s church in Lanark. There’s no date on the gravestone, but you can easily identify it by the skull with crossbones. It’s to the left of the entryway into the cemetery by way of the reconstructed arch in the ruins.) I like cemeteries. They are so peaceful, they don’t care how their inhabitants got there! That’s enough morbidity, I’m going to climb the Necropolis.

P.S. jaywalking appears to be the favourite Glaswegian pastime! Remember, look right then left! (It took me over a week to ‘learn’ how to cross streets in Scotland, and even after a month it still didn’t feel all that natural! I don’t even want to count the number of times people told me to ‘go back to Canada if you don’t know how to cross a street’!!!)

3:50 pm

I’m back at the hostel, waiting in the lobby for Haggis. It’s been an excellent day.

The Necropolis was beautiful despite the fact that several crypts and nooks and crannies were obviously the lodgings of derelicts. It’s a huge cemetery built on a hill. What I liked is that while they maintain the grounds (ex. grassmowing) they don’t repair the stones, allow things to crumble, etc. I almost tripped on a vase that had rolled down a steep hill and was lying flat on its back in the middle of the road! It was obvious that it had been lying there for a while.

Lunch was yet another yummy veggie burger with onions. They’re cheap and plentiful in Glasgow, to my surprise. (Actually, they are very common all over Scotland, even in the smaller towns and you’ll soon discover that it almost became a sport to try the local veggie burger! Although I occasionally found two that were similar, generally no two burgers were exactly alike in taste, texture, or condiment. They made for a cheap meal which varied more than one might imagine!)

After, I bought postcards and a Father’s Day card for Dad. I mailed a postcard to (my stepmother) for her birthday, as well the card for Dad. After, I rode the ‘Clockwork Orange’ (ie the Underground, subway, metro, metropolitana, etc.) back here. It’s clockwork, orange, convenient, and easy to use! as well as cozy and comfortable. (I soon came to realise that it’s a lot easier to use the U to get to the hostel, even if you have to walk maybe five minutes more than if you took the bus. Here are the directions from the Kelvinbridge (bridge, not hall) station. Once above ground, you turn right on the road. You follow its natural curve, and cross an intersection. Keep going straight, this road will merge into Woodland Road. Cross Woodland Road (careful, it’s dangerous!) Follow the youth hostel sign you’ll encounter almost immediately. Easy when someone tells you, but very difficult when you have to discover for yourself! I took the long way for all, but one of about six trips on the U!) Now, I’m going to ask the hostel if I can use their bathroom to freshen up.

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4:08 pm

‘No problem.’ It’s amazing what going to the bathroom, washing your hands, and refilling your canteen (I didn’t carry a water bottle on this trip, rather a 2L hiking canteen. With its strap, it was easier to carry, and its flat shape made it less cumbersome than a bottle.) can do to your spirits! I must that the tap water here is excellent, (that stopped in Inverness, where the water situation went bad. It just didn’t taste good in the Highlands; most likely this is do to the peat which makes the water brown. I also noticed in Pitlochry that the water was making me mildly sick, but not enough to stop my fun, so I put off buying expensive bottled water until the last possible moment. Inverness.) I’m refilling my canteen in bathrooms (the water in bathrooms runs very frequently, so it is usually fresher and better tasting.). Speaking of which, the public one near the Necropolis is unbelievable. It’s clean enough to eat off the toilet bowl , the sink and faucets are sparkling, there are (fake) flowers around the mirrors (there were some in the airport bathroom too, and someone said it was ‘unScottish’), drinking cups and soap are within easy reach, etc. The paper towels are blue and the toilet paper is pink, which makes the water go red!) It’s obvious that Glasgow takes pride in itself. I’m going to wait outside now. Later, perhaps in Edinburgh!

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7:00 pm Edinburgh (!)

Luck does follow me! Haggis was about 45 min (no, that’s not the lucky part, let me finish!) late. The road here was lovely, I saw sheep. Our Haggis driver was most cordial. Arriving here, the people from Haggis asked if I had lodging. No, I said. Well, they said, we’ll ring a couple of places for you. Less than 15 minutes, later I’m settled very comfortable in a B and B two whole minutes from Haggis where the proprietor, Yvonne, picked me up!  For £10, I’ve got breakfast, too! I’ll be staying here, most likely, when I return to Edinburgh. I’m going to take a shower, I stink!

Oh! and I’m sharing a room with a guy from… Laval!!! I’ve had a whole conversation in French today!

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10:16 p.m.

One of my ‘roomies’, a great guy from Edmonton named Michael, and I went out for dinner tonight. Unfortunately, my meal had a bit of hidden meat in it. Considering what I’ve eaten today, I figured a little extra protein wouldn’t hurt, even if it was gross! Besides that, the pasta and sauce was wonderful. One problem: how much to tip! I just realised I probably gave too much! Like 75p too much! Oh, well, the service was good, and I had a little extra. I will have to watch that, however.

Tomorrow, I’m either off to Perth or Pitlochry. Haggis doesn’t run on Sundays, so I’ll have to spend two nights wherever I do go. I’m told that there isn’t much in Perth, but I wanted to see Scone, Dundee, and Saint-Andrews, not to mention… The Cliff (at Kinghorn that King Alexander III rode his horse off of in 1286, pretty much launching the Wars of Independence)!!! I might just get off at Perth, make my own way around Fife, get to Pitlochry and go on from there.

… (long rambling about possible plan. I ended up pretty much missing Fife. It’ll be for next time!)