Deep Lake to Lindeman City

The afternoon’s hike was super easy. In fact, this day was the only one that I would qualify as being effortless. It was a real treat!

Shortly after leaving Deep Lake, we came upon the remains of an old canvas boat as well as a sled. It was here that we began to leave the alpine terrain behind and began to head down into boreal forest.

We arrived mid-afternoon at Lindeman City, the largest campground of the Chilkoot Trail. There are two tenting areas, we stayed at the upper near the warden’s cabin. Lindeman City is a lovely spot on a turquoise lake and it’s flat, something not very common on the Chilkoot Trail!

Lindeman City felt like ‘civilization.’ There is a warden’s cabin on site as well as a museum. Moreover, we arrived on the eve of Parks Canada Day, so we were treated to a Robert Service recital after dinner! The warden also served up treats of cookies and fruit salad. We had had fresh vegetables every day, but no fresh fruit. Canned fruit mixed with fresh apples was quite possibly the yummiest thing I have ever eaten!

After the ‘show’, several of us went for a walk to see the cemetery above Lindeman City and also to visit the lower campground. We saw a family of ptarmigans en route. They are silly birds who are not afraid of people, hence why they were such a popular food source during the gold rush.

old canvas boat and a sled

old canvas boat and a sled

02river

big country

big country

first glimpse of Lake Lindeman

first glimpse of Lake Lindeman

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cabin at the upper campground

cabin at the upper campground

picnic table with view over the lake

picnic table with view over the lake

a cute little new friend of mine

a cute little new friend of mine

soaking my sore feet in icy water (I twisted the left one going over the pass and it was pretty big by this point!)

soaking my sore feet in icy water (I twisted the left one going over the pass and it was pretty big by this point!)

the river, the lake, the fireweed, the mountains, the majesty of it all...

the river, the lake, the fireweed, the mountains, the majesty of it all…

I asked Victor if he needed help whipping the mousse. No, no, thanks! But a minute and a half later, he handed me the bowl. So much work, but such yumminess!

I asked Victor if he needed help whipping the mousse. No, no, thanks! But a minute and a half later, he handed me the bowl. So much work, but such yumminess!

the interpretive tent at Lake Lindeman

the interpretive tent at Lake Lindeman

this guy knew his Robert Service and also had no inhibitions...

this guy knew his Robert Service and also had no inhibitions…

a slightly less traumatizing costume

a slightly less traumatizing costume

bury me here...

bury me here…

a grave at the cemetery overlooking Lake Lindeman

a grave at the cemetery overlooking Lake Lindeman

early morning at Lindeman

early morning at Lindeman

Mark started each day with a Robert Service poem. He saved the best for last and is here reading 'The Cremation of Sam McGee'

Mark started each day with a Robert Service poem. He saved the best for last and is here reading ‘The Cremation of Sam McGee’

The Dawson City Thrift Store

Today, my manager suggested I check out the Dawson City thrift store at St. Paul’s church. The first Saturday of the month (2pm to 5pm), they have an ‘all you can stuff in a grocery bag for 5$’ sale.

St Paul's church, Dawson City
St Paul’s church, Dawson City

I scooped up quite a few skirts and some blouses, several not being wearable right now but which I will be glad to have if I end up with an office job in Campbell River this winter. I also found a fleece jacket for the Chilkoot trip. I had not bought one at MEC back in Vancouver because I have a fairly good one, albeit with a temperamental zipper. I decided that if I found a cheap replacement, I would get one, but otherwise I would endure with the jacket I have even if it clashes with the rest of the clothing I’m taking on the trek. The jacket I found this afternoon is in perfect condition, is my size and is of a colour (olive-ish) that matches or complements the rest of my Chilkoot gear! Sweet!!! I also picked up several books. My bag was bursting at the seams, but I didn’t get a sarcastic comment from the cashier, so I don’t think I was excessive. 😀

Then, I checked out the Saturday market on Front Street and bought a mountain (okay, a pound) of basil from my manager’s husband before going to the general store where I found mozzarella on mega sale. Looks like I’m having pizza again for dinner. 😀 I am so excited to have so much sweet-smelling basil in the house! Whatever I can’t eat in the next few days will get frozen and enjoyed in the next few weeks. Yum!

Dawson’s Cemeteries

I hiked back up to Crocus Bluff today to get in some Chilkoot training and also to explore the numerous Dawson City cemeteries along Mary McLeod Road. There is a much less exhausting way of getting up there, of course, straight up King Street, which becomes Mary McLeod. Park at the Crocus Bluff Recreation Area parking lot and prepare for some slight uphill strolling.

There are several cemeteries in Dawson City, one for Catholics, one for Jews, one for Masons, one for the general public, a new one for the general public (since the older one is filled up), one for the NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) and one of the members of the Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers).

In the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century, it was very expensive to have marble brought up the Yukon River on a barge, so grave markers tended to be plain crosses painted white black lettering. Much of the markings have worn off now, but historians and family members have managed to identify a surprising number of graves. It would be easy to spend a full day exploring the cemeteries, there is so much of interest.

The weight of history was very heavy and I sort of melancholy overtook me as I respectfully made my way through the cemeteries. What struck me the most was how the majority of the graves were of people born a world away. In fact, no one is born in Dawson City today. Expecting mothers are flown to Whitehorse.

The Dawson Visitors’ Centre has a booklet about the cemeteries containing information about some of the more interesting graves. Much of the info in the following gallery is quoted from this guide. Let me add that the booklet is written with a tone of affection and respect, like the author knew and loved the people he or she was writing about.

This evening, guests asked me where they could find the cemeteries, so my timing in going there today was perfect!

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Catholic cemetery

Catholic cemetery

age 3 days

age 3 days

old marker with new

old marker with new

born in Buenos Aires, died in the wilds of Canada

born in Buenos Aires, died in the wilds of Canada

Nolasque "Jack" Tremblay, a respected and admired "Grand Old Man." His wife Émilie opened up a ladies shop.

Nolasque “Jack” Tremblay, a respected and admired “Grand Old Man.” His wife Émilie opened up a ladies shop.

Emma Woods, a member of Dawson's sizable black community.

Emma Woods, a member of Dawson’s sizable black community.

Merilda St. Pierre whose marker is now home to woodpeckers

Merilda St. Pierre whose marker is now home to woodpeckers

Mainville Twins, Arthur & Albert, who died within days of each other of 'summer complaint' (probably dehydration). Their parents had lost another young child 17 months prior.

Mainville Twins, Arthur & Albert, who died within days of each other of ‘summer complaint’ (probably dehydration). Their parents had lost another young child 17 months prior.

a recent grave; what a lovely resting spot

a recent grave; what a lovely resting spot

interesting grave marker

interesting grave marker

Jack and Hazel Meloy. This pioneer couple, the last of their kind, epitomized the spirit of rugged independence and self-reliance.

Jack and Hazel Meloy. This pioneer couple, the last of their kind, epitomized the spirit of rugged independence and self-reliance.

Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers) Cemetery

Y.O.O.P. (Yukon Order of Pioneers) Cemetery

Jan Welzl. This intelligent eccentric was an explorer, inventor and author. He was born in Czechoslovakia and led a life of adventure and discovery across the north. Each year small delegations of followers visit this site to conduct memorial services.

Jan Welzl. This intelligent eccentric was an explorer, inventor and author. He was born in Czechoslovakia and led a life of adventure and discovery across the north. Each year small delegations of followers visit this site to conduct memorial services.

interesting grave marker!

interesting grave marker!

NWMP cemetery (these men died young!)

NWMP cemetery (these men died young!)

NWMP cemetery

NWMP cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the Jewish cemetery

the sad state of the Jewish cemetery, with only one grave marked

the sad state of the Jewish cemetery, with only one grave marked

The names of the Jews buried in the Jewish cemetery

The names of the Jews buried in the Jewish cemetery

Solomon Packer was a popular merchant who owned a hardware store on Front Street and passed away at the age of 57. He was a member of the Y.O.O.P. but chose to be buried in the cemetery of his faith.

Solomon Packer was a popular merchant who owned a hardware store on Front Street and passed away at the age of 57. He was a member of the Y.O.O.P. but chose to be buried in the cemetery of his faith.

these ropes are the only thing identifying the final resting place of Dawson's Jewish dead other than Solomon Packer

these ropes are the only thing identifying the final resting place of Dawson’s Jewish dead other than Solomon Packer

water barrel

water barrel

water barrel

water barrel

a lovely inscription

a lovely inscription

recent grave

recent grave

Joe Vogler led a movement for a "free Alaska." He sought secession from the U.S. and the joining together of Alaska with Yukon and part of northern British Columbia to become a separate county with laws favourable to miners. Although an American, he vowed he would never be buried in Alaska until it was free.

Joe Vogler led a movement for a “free Alaska.” He sought secession from the U.S. and the joining together of Alaska with Yukon and part of northern British Columbia to become a separate county with laws favourable to miners. Although an American, he vowed he would never be buried in Alaska until it was free.

A modern-day tragedy. When 76-year old François became gravely ill in their cabin on upper Bonanza in December of 1977, 65-year-old Zdenka set out on foot to seek help "in extremely cold weather." She was found frozen to death on the trail very near a neighbour who could have helped them. When the search party arrived at the cabin, they found François had also died. They were (and still are) missed by the mining community.

A modern-day tragedy. When 76-year old François became gravely ill in their cabin on upper Bonanza in December of 1977, 65-year-old Zdenka set out on foot to seek help “in extremely cold weather.” She was found frozen to death on the trail very near a neighbour who could have helped them. When the search party arrived at the cabin, they found François had also died. They were (and still are) missed by the mining community.

water barrel

water barrel

Otokichi Arami, born in Japan, died at age 36 in August of 1901. His death was not reported in the local newspaper and little is known of him. However, he was not forgotten as this marker was erected in July 1904 by H. U. Matsumoto, relationship unknown.

Otokichi Arami, born in Japan, died at age 36 in August of 1901. His death was not reported in the local newspaper and little is known of him. However, he was not forgotten as this marker was erected in July 1904 by H. U. Matsumoto, relationship unknown.

English translation

English translation

the English translation is hidden behind this door

the English translation is hidden behind this door

Ruth Mellish, aged 13

Ruth Mellish, aged 13

Crocus Bluff

This summer, a couple of local gals have scheduled twice-weekly hikes around town. I thought that joining them would be the perfect way to get in some much needed Chilkoot training as well as to meet people. Tonight was the first hike and we went up to a place part of the way up the Dome called Crocus Bluff. It was quite a steep hike, with spectacular views. We came down the ‘old’ Dome Road past some cemeteries.

dike along the Yukon River

dike along the Yukon River

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Yukon River

Yukon River

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers

view from Crocus Bluff

view from Crocus Bluff

heading to old Dome Road from Crocus Bluff

heading to old Dome Road from Crocus Bluff

old cemetery

old cemetery

NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) cemetery

NWMP (Northwest Mounted Police) cemetery

old cemetery

old cemetery

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Dawson from old Dome Road

Riding the Knight Bus

We got a late start on an absolutely beautiful Easter Monday. I’d suggested walking through Gastown and my friend found a jump on, jump off bus tour that started there, so we decided to do that.

After parking, we strolled down Water Street to the ‘Big Bus‘ tour headquarters. As it turned out, there would be a bus leaving momentarily, so our timing was perfect. The 35$ tickets are valid for two days. We would only use them this afternoon, so we were offered a free gelato as compensation, which was appreciated (and very delicious!).

The tour was excellent in that we got a chance to pretty much see all of Vancouver–Gastown, Chinatown, Stanley Park, English Bay, Granville Island, Robson and Davie Streets, and on, and on… We just did a full loop back to Gastown without getting off because of time issues. For someone with only a few days in Vancouver, this tour is a great way to see the city! My only complaints are about the jerky stops and the fact that the audio was often inaudible.

Gastown is historic Vancouver and it has really kept its old world charm, with cobblestone streets and buildings still showing their Victorian façades. The city of Vancouver grew up around this area, becoming Granville before taking on the name by which it is known today.

Vancouver’s Chinatown is the second largest in North America, after San Francisco’s. It is the least grimy Chinatown I have visited (compared to that of San Francisco, New York, Chicago, Toronto, and Montreal). It resides essentially a block away from Gastown, but is separated from it by the infamous Downtown Eastside. Our tour guide had very specific instructions for how to walk safely from Chinatown to Gastown. As an aside, I drove down Main all the way past East Hastings and I could not believe the difference in how the area looks when you approach it from Chinatown with a view of the water and mountains in the distance! One of the most interesting things we saw  in Chinatown was the Sam Kee building, which is the narrowest building in the world!

English Bay is on the northwestern tip of the city and boasts several palm-tree lined beaches. It is a beautiful area and host to the annual Vancouver Polar Bear swim!

Robson and Davie Streets are vibrant urban neighbourhoods filled with unique shops. The latter is also Vancouver’s ‘gay village.’ We’d already done Robson, so we ended our day on Davie Street where we tried another all you can eat sushi restaurant. It was quite good and I am now firmly convinced that spicy tuna cones are the yummiest thing ever concocted (vinegared rice, seaweed, raw tuna, and chili; who would think that would be so insanely delicious?!). My friend is now as addicted to sushi as I am and we’re having it for a third time on her last evening here!

I took lots of pictures, some of them of distinct buildings and others which simply captured the stunning diversity of Vancouver’s architecture. I never thought I would find a city more architecturally beautiful than Chicago, but I have. I hope you enjoy this wonderful photo gallery and warn you that Library Square will take your breath away.

I have fallen in love with this beautiful, vibrant, compact city that seems a part of nature, like it grew from the same soil as the redwoods and snowcapped mountains, rather than having these things regrow around it.