Houses/Palaces

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A Robert Burns Day in Dumfries

9 :16 AM

I had a great night, the bed was so comfortable. I even treated myself to the 10 o’clock news on the BBC. This morning was a little strange what with being the only guest and so getting exclusive treatment at breakfast. (At Yvonne’s breakfast is ‘self-serve’. It really was like digging through the pantry and fridge at home!) Somehow, it was different from going to a restaurant. The owners, Sheila and Arnold, are very friendly and helpful, but at the same time very discreet.

I’m probably not going to make it to Ayr. No buses run there from here on Sundays. I’ll try the train station later. I just don’t want to ‘waste’ all of tomorrow on the road. I’m seriously considering another night here (an excellent base for exploring Galloway) and going on a ‘field trip’ tomorrow. Monday, I could be in Ayr by lunch, enjoy the afternoon there and get to Glasgow (or somewhere near) by the evening. I’ll see once I’ve been to the train station.

3:42 pm

I’ve had a wonderful day! It began with a glimpse of the Burns statue under (or near!) which I wrote the first entry of the day. After, I went to the Burns house, the Mausoleum, the Old Bridge House Museum, and lastly, the Robert Burns Centre. Then, I went to a pub for lunch (they have cheap and excellent food) where I enjoyed a delicious vegetable lasagna washed down with what else but a half pint of Guinness?!

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I then spent all of (at most) 45 minutes in Carrutherstown! There’s NOTHING there! I couldn’t even find a church or graveyard! I did enjoy a pleasant stroll through Lowland countryside.

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All the museums were free, but I did have an almost £23 splurge: I bought three Wallace books! I couldn’t help it, I mean I had Reese, Gray, and Fisher’s books right there and I’ve been seeing them for the past month, ignoring them (to the best of my ability, resulting in much ‘anguish’!). I figure that with exchange rates and shipping and handling, I most likely saved some money.

I’m not going to Ayr. To do so on a Sunday, I’d have to go by Glasgow. That would be a waste of time. I figure I’ll get on a bus/train out of here early(ish) tomorrow and head northwest, trying to hit Ayr, but maybe Lanark. What’s frustrating is that one bus company won’t say what another one does and the trains won’t say anything dealing with buses so it’s almost impossible to coordinate! I figure, travel tomorrow and get somewhere near the airport so I can have a full day Monday. Good luck!

8:02

You know what? Why don’t I just go back to Glasgow? There are museums I didn’t get a chance to see and I like the city!

8:41

I’ve made my decision!!! I’m taking the ‘first’ train to Glasgow tomorrow and enjoying an afternoon at the transport museum. Early Monday, I’ll head out to (New) Lanark for the day and return to Glasgow. I’m a little disappointed at missing Ayr, but everyone I’ve met who’s been there (including locals) say that unless you worship Burns, if you’re going to Ayr for Wallacey sentimental reasons, you’d better keep your ‘medieval ideal’ of the city. Anyhoo, it’ll be for my next trip!

 

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Stirling Castle and Falkirk

8:34 AM

A note from yesterday: I rode on a second floor of a double decker bus on the way back from the Bannockburn Heritage Centre! Sure, it wasn’t a red one (it was cream and blue), but it was cool riding up there! The view was magnificent!!!

I’ve had a good morning. The breakfast here was great and served with a smile and ‘good morning’. Rather than icky processed cheese, we were offered a strong, white, real cheese. Of course, there was too much for one meal, so I have lunch too! (Great money saver, making two meals out of breakfast, but I did feel a little silly carrying a sandwich through the hostel! At least, I had baggies!)

It’s too early to ‘do’ anything so I think I’ll head for the bus station to enquire about buses to and from Falkirk as well as buses to Melrose. (Don’t ask when a decision between going to Ayr or Dumfries led to a decision to go to Melrose!)

Time?

I’ve misplaced and most likely lost my watch, darn it! (It was just a cheap one I use for travelling. The bracelet broke during my Ben Nevis climb, and I was just carrying the time piece in my pocket. I did end up finding the watch later that evening.)

After 5, most likely 7ish.

Mighty impregnable Stirling castle. Not much of it remains. What’s left dates from the time of the Stewarts (about the sixteenth century). The oldest feature of the castle is from the reign of Robert II (late fourteenth). Unfortunately, the castle is under going major restoration so a lot of it was inaccessible and what was accessible had yet to be restored! Still, it was fun walking the ramparts, almost crawling into dungeons.

Included in the price of the castle ticket was ‘Argyll’s Lodging’, a fine Renaissance home. I got to explore at my leisure.

Then came the Old Town Jail. Now that was worth £2!!! My tour included myself and a guy from Holland, so it was even better. One man enacted several characters very convincingly (you’d forget it was the same guy playing each part!). The jail was reminiscent of the Ottawa-Carleton jail.

Then, a bus to Falkirk (Scots for ‘speckled church’, isn’t that bonnie?) where I visited Callendar House. I went for the battle of 1298 exhibition and am glad there was other stuff, too, because the exhibition wasn’t great. It was more of a ‘Braveheart’ exhibition and pre-wars of Independence show than anything else. They had a reproduction of the Wallace ‘portrait’.

But the rest of the museum! 1) a working Georgian kitchen where I sampled sponge cake and a lettuce and spinach soup, which was very palatable ! 2) a clock maker’s shop where, in costume, using old tools, a man repairs clocks for the museum. 3) a general store where we sampled ‘sucre d’orge’ [barley sugar, a rock hard candy]. 4) a printer’s shop. Of course, there was more to the museum than that, but I really like the living history ‘stuff’.

Since no one knows where the battle really happened, I didn’t bother heading for the ‘Wallacestone’ where Wallace was supposed to have commanded the battle.

Returning to the bus station, I asked about Melrose. ‘The Borders?!’ the man exclaimed (not rudely). I could have sworn I said a bad name/word, etc!!! Turns out no buses run there, so I was told to go to the train station. ‘Take a train to Berwick (England!!!)’ That would have cost £19 and I would still have to catch a local bus to Melrose! So, tomorrow, I’ll head back to the bus station and ask about other places of interest, Ayr, most likely. I have to be frugal! It’s sort of pleasant not knowing where I’m heading to next. I just have to make sure I have a bed at the other end!

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Scone Palace

12:16 pm

Majestic Scone… (‘Scoon’) Proud and dignified, more a home than a museum. I have stood where Macbeth, where Charles II, where Robert the Bruce (etc) were crowned!

The only part of my visit that I’ve disliked are the dozens of peacocks running around loose. They are the butt ugliest birds on Earth besides turkeys and vultures and their cry is like a cross between a lament and a kitten mewling. Someone put them out of their misery, please! One is ‘posing’ (quite literally, in fact! I couldn’t believe my eyes.) for a photograph. It was this close to me a moment ago and raised up its hideous ‘eyed’ tail. Sign of warning or friendship?  Blech, I can’t stand those birds!

Scone is a quiet place far from the hubbub of ‘real’ life. A white peacock has just approached. It’s lovely!!! I wonder if they are rare or perhaps just females. I’ll try to find someone to ask. (note: special purebreds hatched right on the estate, not too rare, others have them. They are not albinos.) Sorry for the digression—hey there’s another one! Sorry again!

So, as I was saying, Scone is a peaceful place and gives off wonderful vibes despite its tumultuous history. The Mansfields still live here full time; can you imagine the lifestyle?! I’m happy being a pauper, thank you very much! At least I have my freedom. Besides, I was given a glimpse as to the running of this estate. I couldn’t be bothered!

8:25 pm

I got a tip on a place to stay in Stirling (a new International Youth Hostel, £11.50/night, breakfast included. Supposedly, the rooms are singles.), so I’ll follow through on that before deciding on going north or south. I realise that it would be silly and time consuming to go to Aberdeen for just a statue and a ruin (and I don’t even know how easy or hard it would be to get to Kildrummy from Aberdeen, I’ll try to find out tomorrow). I’d like to come back to Scotland with a car. Hmm… maybe I could do Stirling, Bannockburn, and Falkirk (whew !) tomorrow and go on a day trip to Dundee and Glamis on Tuesday. The thing is, there’s not cheap (ie. in my price range) accommodation in Dundee. I dinna ken so I’ll see tomorrow. If there’s nothing (for sleeping, that is !) in Stirling and it’s not worth going to Aberdeen, then I’ll go wherever a bus goes and hope there’s a bed at the other end!!!

 

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In Which I Explore Edinburgh, See the Queen, and Go to Perth

about 3:30 pm

I’ve had a ‘slow’ day. It began around 9. I had vague plans to walk through Holyrood Park, but it wasn’t any fun with my heavy pack. So I proceeded to get lost following a royal procession out of Holyrood and seeing the Queen (she’s tiny) get in a car!!!

After, I went to a museum that focuses on how (Edinburgers?) have lived during the past 200 years. It was fascinating (and free! (why does it start to rain just when I decided to plop down?)) Besides that, I haven’t been up to much (just uphill!). I’m waiting to meet John and Linda at five. It’s silly that I’ve come all this way and will only be able to stay a half hour. It’s a full hour’s walk back to the bus station and the latest for Perth that I can afford to take is at 6:55. (So, I did end up going to Perth! Turns out there weren’t any beds available in Stirling the night I wanted to go, and to go to Stirling from Edinburgh you have to go by Perth and change buses.)

3:45 (of course the rain doesn’t last (I mean ‘atmosphere’ but the cold sure sets in!) (when it rains, the Scots say it’s ‘atmospheric’. When it snows, the Scots say it’s ‘dramatic’. Why not!)

Do you know what I found to be the creepiest thing in Edinburgh (besides the hidden vaults?) It’s silly, but it’s those strange back taxis rushing along on cobblestone streets late at night!!!!!!!!! In a way, they look like miniature hearses, I guess.

On a more positive note, from Princes street, the castle is magnificent! It looks like it’s growing right out of the rock, like it sprouted from the volcano. I must admit that from without, I don’t find the castle all that ‘beautiful’, but it is impressive and grand, a worthy fortress to defend this city. I remember being up with one of the cannons when a tourist pointed one out and joked that it must have been misfired, indicating the scaffold-covered Walter Scott Monument in the distance. Sure enough, the cannon was aimed straight at it!

On a backpacking holiday such as mine you more often than not find yourself living out of doors during the day. Right now, for example, I’m sitting on a bench next to a busy intersection! No matter the weather, unless you can afford restaurants, you eat outside, usually while walking (the pizza yesterday was tricky! (it was pouring!!!)) Luckily, Scots’ diet seems to be tailored to this lifestyle; most food available in restaurants or deli counters is easily eatable ‘on the go’ (today, for example, I picked up a yummy cheese/onion/potato pasty-thingy at a co-op, which I ate on my way to this bench (59p).)

I must admit I’m looking forward to eating 3 regular meals a day sitting down! What I don’t miss (oddly enough) is my bed, only my pillows. The mattresses and the comforters I’ve encountered here are divine, thick and moulding and warm. The only time I’ve had to use my own sleepsheet was at Ben Nevis, everywhere else it was supplied with the price of the night. In Inverness, I didn’t like their system of tucking the pillow into a pouch (I like to cuddle up with it!) so I used the pillow case I brought.

A few general notes:

roundabouts=great fun! (esp. in a bus). I can see myself driving around one for hours ‘à-la-Mr. Bean-on-the-way-to-the-dentist’!

Edinburgh’s layout: she’s an ancient city and has maintained a very ‘medievalish’ layout. Quebec city looks medieval, but Edinburgh has all the closes, wynds, and dead ends that only an ancient city could have. It would be fun to explore all these dark corners, but scary, too. Who knows what kind of people I’ll find at the end of a dark (in the middle of the day!) alleyway?! I could live in Glasgow, but not here, I think. I thought Edinburgh’s age would make her charming and soft, but it’s rather the opposite. It doesn’t feel safe. However, it’s the personification of my ‘dream’ or ‘ideal’ of an old European city. Edinburgh was hardly bombed during WWII, unlike London, which has very little old ‘stuff’ left (or so I’m told). I’d like to try one of them double-decker buses they have here. I might try to find one that’ll take me part of the way to St. Andrew’s Square to catch the bus. Later.

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10:13 pm

I’m in Perth, in a magnificent residence that loses its magnificence when we step indoors! The common room is the only really ‘nice, room in this hostel and it stinks! Still, it’s cheap, and if I stay at a more expensive hostel later on, it’ll be free (like Ayr; I just remembered the offer isn’t available in Glasgow, darn).

John and Linda were wonderful. We had a cup of tea and I stayed for almost 1.5 hours (I arrived at 4:45). I sure am glad I caught a bus that took me almost straight to the bus station! The book’s great (and autographed). I’m going to start it as soon as I finish this sentence!