An Evening at Gertie’s

Last night, I met at Diamond Tooth Gertie’s the cyclists I picked up on Friday.

We ended up staying for all three shows, at 8:30, 10:30, and midnight. We were there four and a half hours! I wish I had known that it’s okay to take pictures of the shows.

The 8:30 wound up being my favourite. It’s the most ‘cancan-y’ of the three, with lots of swirling petticoats and leg kicks. The 10:30 wasn’t bad, but it was more song than dance. The midnight show was disappointing. I’d been told it was the most flamboyant and naughty show, but I found it less flamboyant and naughty than the 10:30.

What amused me the most about the evening was how many people came into Gertie’s and gravitated to my table. I didn’t realise how many folks I’m friendly with! Even Mark and Victor, the guides from the Chilkoot, walked in at one point, fresh off the Yukon River from guiding a canoe trip! Talk about an authentic gold rush experience; discussing our slog over the Chilkoot at Diamond Tooth Gerties!

I hadn’t had a night out in too long, so a couple of pints, some pizza, entertainment, and conversation were just what I needed. The best part is that thanks to my season pass, the evening only cost me twenty dollars. Of course, it helps that I didn’t gamble!

Deep Lake to Lindeman City

The afternoon’s hike was super easy. In fact, this day was the only one that I would qualify as being effortless. It was a real treat!

Shortly after leaving Deep Lake, we came upon the remains of an old canvas boat as well as a sled. It was here that we began to leave the alpine terrain behind and began to head down into boreal forest.

We arrived mid-afternoon at Lindeman City, the largest campground of the Chilkoot Trail. There are two tenting areas, we stayed at the upper near the warden’s cabin. Lindeman City is a lovely spot on a turquoise lake and it’s flat, something not very common on the Chilkoot Trail!

Lindeman City felt like ‘civilization.’ There is a warden’s cabin on site as well as a museum. Moreover, we arrived on the eve of Parks Canada Day, so we were treated to a Robert Service recital after dinner! The warden also served up treats of cookies and fruit salad. We had had fresh vegetables every day, but no fresh fruit. Canned fruit mixed with fresh apples was quite possibly the yummiest thing I have ever eaten!

After the ‘show’, several of us went for a walk to see the cemetery above Lindeman City and also to visit the lower campground. We saw a family of ptarmigans en route. They are silly birds who are not afraid of people, hence why they were such a popular food source during the gold rush.

old canvas boat and a sled

old canvas boat and a sled

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big country

big country

first glimpse of Lake Lindeman

first glimpse of Lake Lindeman

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cabin at the upper campground

cabin at the upper campground

picnic table with view over the lake

picnic table with view over the lake

a cute little new friend of mine

a cute little new friend of mine

soaking my sore feet in icy water (I twisted the left one going over the pass and it was pretty big by this point!)

soaking my sore feet in icy water (I twisted the left one going over the pass and it was pretty big by this point!)

the river, the lake, the fireweed, the mountains, the majesty of it all...

the river, the lake, the fireweed, the mountains, the majesty of it all…

I asked Victor if he needed help whipping the mousse. No, no, thanks! But a minute and a half later, he handed me the bowl. So much work, but such yumminess!

I asked Victor if he needed help whipping the mousse. No, no, thanks! But a minute and a half later, he handed me the bowl. So much work, but such yumminess!

the interpretive tent at Lake Lindeman

the interpretive tent at Lake Lindeman

this guy knew his Robert Service and also had no inhibitions...

this guy knew his Robert Service and also had no inhibitions…

a slightly less traumatizing costume

a slightly less traumatizing costume

bury me here...

bury me here…

a grave at the cemetery overlooking Lake Lindeman

a grave at the cemetery overlooking Lake Lindeman

early morning at Lindeman

early morning at Lindeman

Mark started each day with a Robert Service poem. He saved the best for last and is here reading 'The Cremation of Sam McGee'

Mark started each day with a Robert Service poem. He saved the best for last and is here reading ‘The Cremation of Sam McGee’

Fraser to Skagway on the Whitepass and Yukon Railroad

The Whitepass and Yukon Railroad spelled the end of the Chilkoot trail’s usefulness, providing an easy route into the Klondike. Today, the railroad is renowned the world over for its gorgeous vistas.

We boarded the WPYR in Fraser, British Columbia, and rode it all the way into Skagway, Alaska, 40 odd miles through some of the biggest and most beautiful country I’d seen so far.

Fraser train station right across from US customs

Fraser train station right across from US customs

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This thing weighed about 40lbs when we started and only about 30lbs when we reached Bennett. Losing all that weight was motivation to EAT. :)

This thing weighed about 40lbs when we started and only about 30lbs when we reached Bennett. Losing all that weight was motivation to EAT. ๐Ÿ™‚

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this narrow-gauge track is unique in North America

this narrow-gauge track is unique in North America

the Whitepass trail of '98 (scary! look at how narrow it is!)

the Whitepass trail of ’98 (scary! look at how narrow it is!)

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this bridge was in use until the 60's

this bridge was in use until the 60’s

it's obviously no longer in use now

it’s obviously no longer in use now

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entering Skagway

entering Skagway

Good Thing I Didn’t Come For the Gold

Gold was the theme of the day.

Claim No. 6

The mosquitoes at Discovery Claim sure hit the jackpot with me today! ๐Ÿ˜€

It was the discovery of gold at this claim on Bonanza Creek that launched the Gold Rush of 1898. Today, you can park at the claim site and stroll down to the water to try your hand at panning for gold. I borrowed a pan and shovel from work and had fun spending about a half hour playing in the mud before the mosquitoes and frozen ground chased me away. I’m pretty sure I struck iron pyrite based on the number of gold-coloured flakes lying at the bottom of my pan. There is no way I am going to even think that they might have been real gold. ๐Ÿ™‚

Dredge No. 4

Dredge No. 4 was one of several barges (set in man-made lakes) used to mine for gold from the 1930’s to the 1960’s. ย How they work is a bit complicated to explain without actually being on site, but I’ll try. I’d say the nearest comparison is a mechanical shovel:

The dredge works on a similar pivot-system and has a thingamabob sticking out of it like the shovel of the digger. This thingamabob gobbles up all the gravel and dirt in front of it in a wide radius and sends it into the bowels of the dredge to be processed for gold. When all the gravel and dirt has been eaten, the dredge moves ahead. It spits out its back the unusable rock forming the Klondike’s famous rock piles called ‘tailings.’ I was surprised to learn that only four men where needed to operate these behemouths. That figure is misleading, however, since a ‘dredge camp’ had more than 100 employees.

The method for mining gold in the Klondike appears to be quite different than inย Val d’Or, but this might be because of the permafrost here. There seems to be a lot of tourmaline and quartz in the tailings, so I think we can assume that Klondike miners are looking for the same thing as Val d’Or miners, but have a different way of getting at it.

Dredge no. 4 sank into muck in the sixties and in the eighties the decision was made to salvage it. Work on that project did not start until the early nineties. The lower level had been stuck in silt and ice for almost thirty years by this point, but the structure still came out mostly intact! They were even able to salvage the old floors. What impressed me the most, thought, was that the mechanical parts that had been buried for so long still worked perfectly.

Parks Canada now manages the site and gives a very good hour and fifteen minute tour ending with a ten minute video presentation of the raising of the barge. Well worth a visit!

The statistic I remember best from the tour is something I haven’t been able to confirm or deny. Apparently, Dawson City was the third city in North America to get electrical power after Chicago and Montreal. If that’s the case, I am very impressed!

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tools of the trade

tools of the trade

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

Bonanza Creek, cold as hell, yellow as gold

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

at one point, I realised that my toes were turning blue, the ground and water were so cold!

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

Dredge No. 4 (this is a BARGE!)

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thick cables!

thick cables!

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clutches

clutches

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view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

view of the manmade lake from the winch room (highest level of the dredge we can visit)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

emergency stop button (and my feet, again)

sluice boxes

sluice boxes

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

these were buried in silt under ice for almost forty years and STILL WORK!

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

planks from 1939/1940, buried in silt and covered by ice for almost 40 years! (and, of course, my feet)

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

this shot really shows that the dredge is a big boat

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

driving home along Bonanza Creek Road

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The Sourtoe Cocktail Club

My evening went something like this:

It was a bit cooler after 8 so I decided to take the bike out and maybe even go into town to see how easy it is to get into town by bike.

I met a very nice lawyer from California who is motorbiking around the north and staying in a tent set up next to my car. Talk lead to more talk and an invitation to join him and another gentleman at the Downtown Hotel for a special Dawson City drink around nine.

Which is how I found myself kissing a mummified human toe floating in Yukon Jack whiskey and becoming an official inductee of the Sourtoe Cocktail Club. I’m proud to say I went first!

The pictures in this gallery are not for the faint of heart. Bwa ha ha.

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he just made a dirty (and obviously hysterical) joke)

he just made a dirty (and obviously hysterical) joke)

down the hatch (loved the whisky!)

down the hatch (loved the whisky!)

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(And, yes, I am reasonably confident in saying that it IS a human toe and not a prank pulled by locals on tourists.)