Sunday Morning at the El Alquián Mercadillo

The nearby village of El Alquián has a “mercadillo” every Sunday morning. That literally translates as a flea market and would be a tianguis in Mexico.

I didn’t realise that the clocks moved back yesterday, which explains why I was awake around 7:30 when I’d gone to bed around 12:30. Even the fact that the sun was up did not clue me into the time change!

I had a full eight hours of typing to do, but I still wanted to go out. So I had a quick breakfast, vaguely remembering my host saying I’d be able to have coffee at the market and so skipping that step, grabbed the grocery cart, and headed off around 8:30.

While I had less than 5KM to walk, I discovered that the road is absolutely not pedestrian friendly, having a high speed limit and no shoulders. I ended up coming home by the beach, which was lovely, but not grocery cart friendly. So I really doubt I’ll be going to El Alquián again, not when Almería downtown is about 15 minutes away by buses that run regularly.

Approaching the market. People were parked quite a distance away.

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The market is just a very long row of stalls. It starts with clothing and accessories, then you get produce. I bought a ton of stuff from the guy running this stall (he’s in the red shirt) as he had everything I wanted veggie-wise and it all looked fresh. I think prices are way better than in Canada, but sad compared to the Balkans and Mexico.

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The folks with the covered trays in front of that blue tarp had bulk goods so I was able to stock up on raisins. Mangos and avocado were very pricy and I did not get any.

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I wandered up and down a few times, adding four apples and a loaf of bread to my haul. I had hoped to come home with cheese as well, but there was only one tiny vendor selling cheese and meat and he was doing business much too fast for me to feel comfortable shopping as I didn’t recognise any of his wares and would have had questions. The only stall that I lingered at was selling olives in bulk, but the containers were just flimsy plastic ones and I didn’t want to come home to olive juice all over my groceries!

There were only two food stalls. One had whole roasted chickens and the other one had coffee, hot chocolate, and churros (doughnuts). I got a coffee and that alone was worth my very long walk as it it was very strong without being bitter and the crema was almost like caramel. Yum!

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Frankly, I was disappointed. It just didn’t have the lively community gathering feel that I’ve grown accustomed to at markets.

I’d had my fill within about an hour, right on schedule, so I headed off, pausing to dig one of my apples out of my bag. I found apples, certain types of which are a favourite food, disappointing in the Balkans (always mealy) and have been in withdrawal. This apple was perfect, so crisp and balancing tartness and sweetness.

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I turned to the beach at this point, where you can see my neighbourhood in the distance. I live at the completely opposite end.

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Found someone living the good life!

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When I finally reached my neighbourhood, I was reminded that I’d been to this end of the malecón before with my host. So our malecón is really quite short and that’s why folks will run up and down it. I still had almost a full kilometre left to get home at this point!

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I got in and put my purchases away. 16.52CAD had gotten me:

  • 1 bunch celery
  • 1 large bunch carrots
  • 4 medium sweet potatoes
  • 1 medium broccoli
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 4 medium onions
  • 2 cucumbers
  • 2 zucchini
  • 4 large apples
  • 1 small loaf bread
  • 1 coffee

Next, I did all my outdoor chores and then I finally plopped myself down at my desk and started typing.

Around four, I used some of my veggies and as well as leftover chicken broth and roasted chicken to make a quick chicken soup.

Even though I worked steadily and did not take many breaks, I wasn’t done with my jobs until almost 10PM. Phew. My eyes literally hurt by that point. I had a long hot shower, watched an episode of something, and then passed out.

Today will be a slightly easier work day. Depending on what time I finish, I may go to Almería, but I think I’m better off saving that for tomorrow and making a day off of it. We shall see. My clients have been surprising!

I’m Apparently in the Affordable Part of Spain

I ended up almost triple booked for work this weekend because a major (in terms of who they are, not yearly order volume) client dropped a largish job into my queue with no warning. They are too important to say no to and will be paying me at the start of the New Year, when I’ll likely be traveling around, not having as much time to work, and grateful for the cash injection.

Despite that, I really want to go to the market tomorrow morning, which will be about two hours away round trip walking. So I worked my tail off today!

Thankfully, I had a really amazing night of sleep — 00:30 right straight to 8:30! That’s almost unheard of for me! The room is like a cocoon, so dark and quiet. I know I slept like crap all summer in Bulgaria, so it’s a blessing to have better sleep conditions here and that I’ll be able to leave refreshed.

I like to check my emails in bed and the cat joined me for a snuggle, so I didn’t get up till almost 9:30. I got cracking right after breakfast and worked steadily through my day. By 8:00PM, I still had, ideally, another couple of hours to do, but I was getting rather hangry. I decided to pause and have a beer and tapa at the place around the corner my host took me to on Monday.

8:30 on a Saturday night in Spain is apparently the perfect time to have a quiet drink at a bar, LOL. I ordered a beer and chose chorizo as my included tapa. I expected a bite or two of the sausage on a toothpick and to come back home and have some peanut butter toast. Imagine my surprise that my 2 euros/3CAD got me not only the beer, but a whole grilled chorizo sausage on a small bun and a small order of fries! I don’t think I’ve ever done that well even in Mexico! That was absolutely a full meal and really yummy! I read the local paper as I enjoyed my unexpected dinner, savouring a little luxury I missed in the Balkans. There, I could read the paper, but if I understood more than the odd word, I was on fire! 🙂

I think I will be going to that bar quite often! Now, back to work.!

Exploring Alicante’s Santa Bárbara Castle

Yes, this post is a little late. I am feeling very run down and have a sore throat. I really need a few nights of interrupted sleep!

Like in Barcelona, it’s insanely loud in this building until just past 1AM, then quiet until about 10AM. I guess that’s just the normal Spanish rhythm… I didn’t even bother trying to sleep until it got quiet on Friday night/Saturday morning and then I slept like the dead since my room was surprisingly dark and quiet. I only woke up because I was cold and had to find another blanket.

I went out Friday night to get some breakfast stuff at a nearby supermarket, so I was all set to make peanut butter with banana and coffee on Saturday morning. I ended up buying a large bag of powdered milk for just 4 euros (6CAD). Twice what I’d pay in Mexico, half what I’d pay in Canada. It’ll last me for months and since I only have one more stop to make before I land for seven weeks, it made sense to get some last night so that I could make coffee here.

I dropped my groceries off and then went out again to look for a fast food supper around 8:30, eventually stumbling on a kebab shop that was opening up for the night. Thank goodness for the Turks! 😀 I could have kebab just about every night and, really, as long as you go easy on the sauce, there could be worse suppers. It’s a very popular late night fast food option all over Europe.

I then had to put in a couple of hours of work before bed. It’s very rare that I leave work for arrival on a traveling day because I’m always afraid of contingencies, but Thursday night was not conducive to working in the public spaces in my Barcelona flat. Since the job was super easy and not due till Friday night, it made sense to take a chance and finish once I’d landed in Alicante.

I pretty much picked Alicante as my stop this weekend by throwing the proverbial dart at a map of the Spanish coast. I couldn’t afford to stay in Barcelona any longer and I also did not want to have to travel straight to Almería in one day as it would have been something like 12 or 13 hours of traveling time. Alicante is about two-thirds of the way to Almería from Barcelona, meaning a shortish traveling day on Monday, and boasts a charming old town and a magnificent castle to explore. Sounded pretty good to me!

So it was a very, very, very late start Saturday morning. It was really nice to stumble into a super clean kitchen and put together coffee and breakfast. After that, I did a bit of my work for the weekend and then headed out to find a town map and the castle.

My flat is located on a public square and is making me realise I do not want to live right on a public square in Mexico!

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My wonderful host here oriented me as to the main street in town and the pedestrian zone, so I had known where to go look for food Friday night and where to find the info centre Saturday afternoon.

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I love how an interior wall became an exterior wall and that you can still see where the old staircase was.

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I thought I’d found tacos on Friday night, but they want 10 euros/15CAD for two!!!

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The tourist info centre was just past the Mexican restaurant. I came in and was sized up by the person at the desk who yelled towards the back, “We need your English skills!” Bemused, I shook my head and said in Spanish, “I just want a map and walking directions to the castle…” “Oh!” was the reply and then aid was forthcoming. The map I was given was pretty terrible in that it’s not particularly portable, being printed on heavy paper, but it is pretty detailed and colour coded. The instructions on how to walk to the castle seemed clear…

I headed UP into the old town.

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I found this wonderful poem on a building. I photographed all of it, but am only sharing my favourite stanza, the one at the bottom: “How many days does a week have? Seven days, and no more. But I would give it eight days, one more to travel.”

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The Santa Bárbara castle is a rather impressive. It started as an Islamic fortress in the 9th century, with the Christian castle built over top in the Middle Ages.

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Getting to the walking path up to the castle was insanely frustrating. I will never again complain of the dearth of signage in the Balkans as Spain appears to be worse. I think that in this case, it is intentional. The castle is free to visit, but there is a new elevator to get to the top that costs about 3 Euro. I think that the walking path is hard to find so that people will choose the paid option. That had the opposite effect on me. The more I climbed up to a dead end and had to backtrack, the less inclined I was to pay the elevator fee! And, yes, I asked multiple people for directions.

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One man finally gave me good directions, as opposed to a more vague, “It’s that way,” response. I started to climb.

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Spoiler: I would end up higher than that little tower you see jutting out of the cliff at the top!

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It became evident as I climbed that there are actually a few different walking paths of varying degrees of difficulty.

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I ended up on what I would, at the descent, confirm as being the official walking path, and it was very difficult as the step risers were super high.

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This is the part where I got really annoyed with the lack of signage. Right through that door.

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From there, I could go up these very scary steps strewn with broken glass or move ahead on a dirt path.

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There was a bunch of us who were confused and it took a local to tell us that the least obvious of the paths, the dirt one, would lead us to the paved access road to the entrance of the castle. On the way back, I came across a few different groups of tourists all as equally confused as I was at that point and I had to guide them to the entrance. What could have been a really lovely walk up was incredibly frustrating because I was expending a lot of effort to climb up things that seemed to lead to the castle but which ended up being dead ends. To meet other people who felt as frustrated as I was spoke volumes as to the validity of my feelings.

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But I finally made it to the entrance!

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Right through that arch, I saw this sign about a sci-fi exposition. Curious..

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I went in and as soon as I started to look at the exhibits, I just gasped. I was looking at case after case of mostly original props from many science-fiction/fantasy movies, some of which I really love! This was such a random and unexpected part of my day! These are just a few of the original props that I enjoyed viewing.

Hydra’s cosmic energy battery from Captain America: the First Avenger.

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Bruce Banner’s laptop and drink from The Incredible Hulk (2008).

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Obadiah’s sonic taser earplugs from Ironman.

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A piece from the Tumbler in Batman Begins!

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I could not stop staring at this original mask, hat, and wig from V for Vendetta, one of my favourite movies of all time.

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What a surreal exhibit, and free to boot!

Then, I wandered around the ruins. You can go almost anywhere.

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At the top here, you can see the café. I didn’t plan my day well and got to the castle at about 2PM, lunchtime. I should have had lunch first and then gone exploring. So I decided to pay a premium for a mediocre burger with a great view and didn’t regret it one bit!

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The castle complex is huge.

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This is that little tower we saw earlier and I’m above it, at the very top of the castle. The view was so spectacular!

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I would not want to be a bus driver having to go around that hair pin turn!

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Here’s that archer again.

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I haven’t had ice cream in ages and 2.50 euros was insane for gelato after an afternoon of wandering around flat Barcelona, but was a fair price for this treat after all that climbing!

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The figures fighting in the background of this picture amuse me immensely.

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Found the elevator. It’s free to go from the 1st to the 2nd level and to go down from the 2nd level to the beach.

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The sci-fi expo is showing off some of the best sci-fi movies of recent years! *snickers*

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As some of you know, I did my BA in medieval history and so I know a bit about the construction of these sorts of structures. What I’m seeing here is that there was some sort of wooden construction jutting out of the stone foundation.

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The Mediterranean at Alicante is just…

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Ruins of Saint Barbara’s Hermitage.

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I thought this was a weird coincidence in that at this time two years ago, I was near Arco, Idaho, wandering through an equally amazing space

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It’s forbidden to feed the cats and the doves. Saw lots of gulls, but no doves…

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The hike down was hard on the knees. Just like after the climb in Old Kotor, I’m shocked that I wasn’t sore the next day!

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I may have yelled to this guy that he was doing a fine job with his painting…

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Ah, a dove!

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I was done by this point and just wanted to get in. I thought to stop at the market, but was disappointed to discover I’d missed my only chance as it closes at 2PM on Saturdays and is closed on Sundays.

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I made two stops before coming in. The first was at a fruit and vegetable store for a tomato and small cucumber, the other at the grocery store for ham, cheese, and yoghurt so I could have dinner in when I was ready for it. I am surprised that Spanish grocery prices appear to be low. Four single-serve containers of yoghurt were about 0.75CAD (about four times cheaper than in Assiniboia). A package of good ham was about 1.50CAD. A cheese similar to Boursin, which was 8CAD last time I didn’t buy any in Assiniboia, was just under 2CAD.

I came in and did more work, then made dinner. I have access to not just the kitchen here, but a whole cupboard full of spices and condiments! I had a few things in Sarajevo, but nothing like this, and I had to build a pantry from scratch in Bulgaria with not much available to me locally. So being able to not only pull out oil and vinegar last night to make a dressing from scratch, but also sugar, salt, oregano, garlic powder, and a few other things to make the dressing extra special felt like an incredible luxury.

Even though I knew I wouldn’t be able to sleep that early, I went to bed around nine, just as the noise level in here started. I managed to fall asleep around eleven, was woken around one, then slept from two to four, five to eight, and 8:30 to ten. Not a great night… I have to leave early tomorrow, so I don’t expect much sleep again. It will be a relief to land in Almería!

It’s 1:30 on Sunday now. Nothing’s open at this hour on a Sunday, so I’m just going to wander around, find a nice lunch, and enjoy the Mediterranean sunshine. 🙂

Skopje Fails To Make Much of an Impression

I wish that my deadlines this weekend would have allowed me to take the tour of Skopje rather than tomorrow because this city feels like a hard nut to crack.

I slept quite well last night thanks to the really comfy bed and woke up realising that I’m reaching travel burnout in that all I wanted to do was spend the day working in my jammies. I had zero desire to go out and explore. By about 1:30, I’d done the pressing work for today and forced myself to dress and head out.

My flat is located in a neighbourhood about 1KM from the centre of Skopje. The neighbourhood feels very liveable, being quite well kept and full of restaurants and shops. I decided to head to the centre to orientate myself ahead of tomorrow’s proper sightseeing.

This is the bakery where I stopped for lunch yesterday, Silbo.

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Across from it is this structure, which is a bit of a landmark for me. You can see it is quite run down.

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As a stationary and office supplies nut, a store devoted to Staedtler and 3M products made me drool!

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Yet another church. I’ve seen so many churches and mosques since I got to the Balkans!

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The city felt dead. There was very little open. I wanted a cheap fast food joint, like a pizza place, for a late lunch but I met one shut door after another. This is the first city I’ve been in that appears to shut down on the weekends. I hope tomorrow won’t be a wash… I finally found a hamburger joint that was open. The owner quickly switched to English and apologised for not having an English menu. He was delighted that I was able to handle the Macedonian menu without needing help. I asked for onion rings inside of fries and he upgraded me for free! I’m sad to report that was the highlight of my day. *wry grin* Lunch was very expensive, on par with what a fast food burger combo is in Canada, 8CAD, and I wish I’d noticed the prices before committing, even though my meal was very tasty. But it ended up being the only non sit down type restaurant I found in two whole hours of ambling, not counting bakeries, and I’m rather sick of puff pastry. So, really, it was that or my leftover pasta from last night and then I would have had to find dinner food…

There are some nice buildings in Skopje, but I have yet to see anything that I know is genuinely old.

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I thought that the colours add a lot of panache and visual appeal to an otherwise ugly building.

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The red double decker buses really made me laugh.

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Some of Skopje’s MANY statues. I will explain about that after my walking tour tomorrow. If said tour doesn’t happen, I’ll cobble together something from my internet research. 🙂

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*squints at label* This is Hristo Uzunov, a Bulgarian revolutionary.

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Some of the nicer graffiti I’ve seen in my lifetime.

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Or maybe the building was designed that way? A question to ask a guide.

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Here’s Skopje’s famous Alexander the Great statue.

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That’s all I saw of note today after two whole hours of walking. Skopje is really gritty to the point of looking and feeling absolutely filthy. I didn’t enjoy the bit of the downtown pedestrian zone I encountered and was not tempted to stop for a beer or coffee. I really hope that the tour happens tomorrow and that it will leave me wishing I had more time to give this city. As things stand right now, I don’t feel that I would have missed much by not coming. However, I do want to stress that everyone I’ve encountered has been welcoming and friendly and done their best to serve me as well as they could despite the language barrier.

I’m off to get some more work done so that I can focus on exploring tomorrow!

Getting Turned Around in Old Kotor

It was overcast, but not raining when I got up this morning.

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I went straight to work and was delighted when the owner surprised me with coffee and mandarin preserves! My first project of the day went quickly and it still wasn’t raining at 11:30 when I finished it. So I thought to take a break and make a run for Kotor before the inevitable rain came. But guess what showed up just as I was able to shut down? Yep, more coffee. 🙂 So I figured I might as well get the other job done (it would take less than an hour). A heavy downpour arrived at the same time as my coffee. I wouldn’t have gotten very far…

I was finally done around 1:00 and the rain appeared to be letting up a bit. I gave it some time and it finally stopped altogether. I hurriedly headed out, hoping to at least make it to Kotor before another downpour.

En route, I noticed this pomegranate bush. Wow! I’ve never seen pomegranates in their natural habitat!

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So pretty!

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This one that was open is what caught  my eye and made me realise what the fruits in the bush were.

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I made it into Kotor with nary a drop from the sky and decided to continue on to the bus station to double check my departure time for tomorrow.

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There really isn’t much to Kotor. People come here for the old city and for the beaches. There were barely any restaurants and no fast food type joints.

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This building is right across from the bus station.

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I was able to confirm that my bus for the first leg of my trip tomorrow leaves at 12:15. As long as the information I found for the second leg is correct, I will be in Prizren, Kosovo, by about 10PM.

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This sign reminded me of one I saw outside the Ley in San Carlos, inviting customers to have their meat grilled by the store.

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I was famished by this point, so I headed back towards Old Kotor to get a slice of pizza at a place across from the Museum snack bar where I had my Kotor breakfast.

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The pizza was really good, but 2Eur (3.06CAD), wow! I’ve had equivalent quality pizza for 1BGN (0.78CAD)! I then got an ice cream (comparable price to what I’ve paid so far in the Balkans for half the quantity) and then just wandered aimlessly in the old city, delighted that the rain was holding off.

I purposely did not look for landmarks and frequently found myself going around in circles and completely turned around. It was so much fun!

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Marco of Montenegro…

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Rather reminded me of Neelix of Canada…

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I was ready to head home when I noticed people walking along the top of the Old City walls. Curious, I decided to find the way up there. It wasn’t from outside the city, so I went back in.

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And managed to find the way up without too much trouble.

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I was standing down at the lion when I noticed people above me. I rather felt like I was in a video game and had found my way to the next level! 🙂

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I love the old aerials on these houses!

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The terracotta roofs in the Balkans are interesting. They use cement to keep everything together. I’ll have to see how the Mexican roofs are constructed.

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And, boom, a dead end! I had actually come up a staircase on the other side of that yard the other day and was disappointed that there wasn’t much. I think the homeowner would be better off letting people walk that very short bit through their yard with a prominent, “Passage: 0.50Eur” sign. 🙂

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I turned around and marvelled at how different the view was in the opposite direction.

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Here’s the main entrance, with a lot fewer people than there were on Sunday!

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October Revolution Square.

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I couldn’t believe the rain held off all that time! What a gift! It’s pouring now.

What was not so much of a gift was that I got ripped off by the taxi driver with a fast metre (same scam as in Belgrade) who charged me a whopping 6Eur to get home. 🙁 I’m going to have my host call me a taxi tomorrow if it’s raining as I’m sure she’ll get someone who is reputable to take me to the bus station. I would actually rather walk since it’s only 3KM and straight downhill, but rain will probably be an inevitability.

The taxi ride not withstanding, what a great bookend to my Kotor getaway! This stay was exactly what I was hoping it would be! I got as much work as I was hoping I would, but not so much as to be overwhelming, and with two non-rainy afternoons, I completely got my fill of Old Town Kotor. This is a super expensive and touristy area, so being able to self-cater at the hostel (and having a host who kept bringing me coffee and fruit!) was a bonus. With prices being at Canadian levels, this was definitely not a “vacation stop” for me.

So I’m off to Prizren tomorrow for two nights. Accommodation there was twice what it costs in Kotor, which is about twice what it has cost me in the rest of the Balkans, so it’s another hostel and non-vacation stop, I think, but I did want to spend a full day there. Then, on to Skopje for the weekend ahead of my flight on Monday. Can you believe I’ll be having my first dinner in Barcelona at this time next week?!