How I Found My Bulgarian House and Pet Sitting Gig

I’m surprised that so few people have asked me how the heck I ended up in Malak Izvor. Well, I’m going to tell you anyway. 🙂

Back in January, upon the advice of a couple of friends, I signed up at Mind My House, a site that brings together folks looking to house and pet sit with folks looking for house and pet sitters. Most of the gigs are in the US, Canada, and Western Europe, but there are really gigs all over the world. I’d never considered housesitting before, but it sure sounded like a great way to travel around the world with minimal housing costs and the chance to live like a local.

A one-year membership is 20USD. I can already tell you that I will be renewing my membership!

I signed up in January and started to look for gigs in Eastern Europe, of which there were very few. I found Max’s ad in February and sent him a message showing keen interest in his gig. However, he prefers people who can stay long-term, eight months to a year or even longer, so he politely declined. I thought that was it.

Over the following months, I continued to look at gigs in places I was interested in, including the Czech Republic. And then, Max got back to me in June to see if I was still available because my 85 days of availability were going to be better than nothing. The rest, as the cliché goes, is history. Needless to say, this one gig has more than paid for my membership to Mind My House!

The gig has really spoiled me in that I’m very much in my own space, not someone’s home. What I’m really here for is the pets, not the property. But it’s a successful first foray into housesitting and a first reference through the site. I hope to find something in Portugal, Spain, or the south of France for the start of 2017. I’m also looking for something in a non-Schengen country between the end of September and January, but I’m not holding my breath on getting that lucky twice. I am very open to where I go next, though, and willing to see what opportunities present themselves. Flights from Europe to almost anywhere are so inexpensive that I have a lot more options than I did back in North America.

I’ve seen a few ads for gigs in Mexico, so that’s something I will look at when I’m ready to head back there. Hopefully, I’ll find a gig in the Yucatán!

First Solo Trip to Yablanitsa

Groceries were down to the bare bones today. Since I had no work in the queue, I figured it would be the perfect day to see just how accessible Yablanitsa is. Google Maps told me I had a 6KM walk ahead of me and Apple Maps said 10KM! 12KM roundtrip would be just doable, but 20KM would be pushing it and I’d definitely investigate the taxi service Jenny told me about.

I set off with my backpack, once again pleased that I bought it for my trip. I loaded it with water, documentation (I was told to always have my passport on me as ID checks are common), and, of course, money, and set off.

It’s straight downhill into the village. I I didn’t look forward to that slog on the return trip!

IMGP4816

Here’s the gate into the property. Duck when going through the door!

IMGP4817

Street sign. Says, “Street Zdravets.”

IMGP4818

Now at the bottom of my road at the intersection of the main road through the village.

IMGP4819

Sign indicating that there is a monastery that way. Max and Jenny told me I have to go there. I will when I get more details.

IMGP4820

Our little village square with the small shop where you can get essentials (where the brown overhang is).

IMGP4821

Looking back up the main road.

IMGP4822

A restaurant. I could read the menu, but my dictionary didn’t recognise much on it…

IMGP4823

Heading out of town, I saw a car with a Czech plate. All cars in the EU appear to have a similar license plate, either white or yellow (I saw both in the UK), with the left side being blue with the symbol of the EU and a two-letter country code. I think you can legally drive a car plated in any EU country in any other EU country.

IMGP4824

This rather nice looking property is for sale.

IMGP4825

16,000 Euro sounds like a bargain…

IMGP4826

The flora here is similar to back in Quebec. Cornflowers…

IMGP4828

And these little bell things I like whose name I really should know.

IMGP4829

The mountains up here remind me of driving to Durango.

IMGP4830

Leaving the limits of Malak Izvor. I didn’t know it, but I was just shy of a third of the way to Yablanitsa by this point.

IMGP4831

Unlike the UK, Bulgaria has stop signs. I had to turn left here.

IMGP4832

Funny that there was no sign at the corner saying Yablanitsa thataway, but in the opposite direction, there was a sign for Malak Izvor.

IMGP4833

I was surprised when I saw this sign, thinking I’d arrived, but I still had a good 2KM to go.

IMGP4834

About 1KM from town, I man pulled over and offered me a ride. Max, Jenny, and Sarah all told me to accept such offers during the daytime as hitching is a very common thing to do around here and nothing untoward has ever happened. The local population is fairly small and people get to know each other. If I declined the lift, the odds were good I’d never get another offer. So I got in and said, “Yablanitsa ATM” and he said, “Sure” and then rattled off something. I stared at him and he smiled and said, “Malak Izor”? AH! “Da!” 😀

He dropped me off in front of the green bank (there’s also a blue bank, but Max told me to use the green one) and I thanked him.

Here’s the main square in Yablanitsa. For some reason, I put my camera away after and forgot to take more pictures!

IMGP4836

After making a withdrawal, I had to find the supermarket. I wandered around a bit trying to get my bearings and then identified that the street the green ATM is on (the one you see in the photo above going left and right, not the one with the cars parked) is a main thoroughfare. I headed down it (left in the picture) looking for the supermarket and eventually spotting it. I wasn’t sure it was the store I’d been in with Max, but it said supermarket so I figured it would do even if it wasn’t, but it was.

I took my time shopping, managing to get everything on my list except chicken broth. My dictionary app proved to be useless (glad it was a free one) and I was happy I had access to Google translate to confirm what I guessed I was holding (like tomato sauce with mushrooms, *shudders*). I knew that the good butter was in the deli case, so I took a deep breath and went there, where I said, “Butter, please,” to the clerk. She nodded and said, “One?” holding up a finger for a good measure. “Yes, one. Thank you!” My first successful exchange in Bulgarian!

The till was less successful. I knew from my first trip that I would pay and then be asked for 0.25BGN deposit on my beer bottles. So I was all ready for that, but the cashier took my 0.25BGN from what I’d paid her. It took me a moment to understand that she was telling me, “I already took your bottle deposit from your change” and not “You still owe me for the bottle deposit.” Now that I know the deposit is 0.25BGN for two bottles, the next time I buy beer there I will put the 0.25 with them when I get to the till to show that I know I’m expected to pay a deposit.

I came out of the store and loaded up my backpack. I had too much for it unless I wanted to smoosh the bread, but I got all the heavy things in and only had some light things to carry separately.

That was the limit of the excitement I could handle for one day, so I decided to head home. As I did so, I passed a convenience store with an ice cream cooler outside. I grabbed a chocolate Magnum-style bar (chocolate ice cream covered with chocolate and peanuts on a stick). The price was listed as 1.45BGN, so I dug out 1.50 before going inside to pay. My treat was really good! 😀

The trip home was a bit of a slog since most of it was uphill. I really don’t mind walking to Yablanitsa, but I will definitely figure out how to arrange for a taxi back from now on. I’m told it’s only 6 to 8BGN (4.80 to 6.40CAD).

My trip only took me three hours so I should be able to cut that to two if I take a taxi back. Yablanitsa is definitely further than I’d been told it was, but is certainly close enough to feel accessible. I look forward to going to the market on Friday and having more time to browse at my leisure.

Аз Учa български

After trying out multiple apps and sites for learning Bulgarian, I finally settled on Mondly. It’s taken several days and lessons for me to feel that I am making progress with the language and that the app’s methodology works for me. I’m pleased enough with Mondly that I paid the $28 to get lifetime access to all language lessons on the site, not just Bulgarian. I don’t think I’ll regret that…

Today was a breakthrough lesson for me, where I started to feel that previous lessons were sticking and that I was building on previous knowledge. One of the most important phrases I learned today is “Аз Учa” (Az oocha — I am learning). Add in български (bulgarski — Bulgarian) and instead of saying to people “No Bulgarian,” I’ll be able to say something much more positive — I’m making an effort to learn what I can. I’m now pretty sure I can greet someone and say, “Hello, how are you?” and “My name is,” quite a step up from just a few days ago!

It might seem a waste that I didn’t learn Bulgarian over the winter, but with my being nowhere near fluent in Spanish, Mexico was not the place do so. Being in such an isolated spot, I have time and focus to cram in the basics before I go out into the big old world (I suspect I may be in Sofia this weekend…).

Mondly is also helping me with pronunciation and oral comprehension. One of my favourite types of lessons is something of a spelling bee where the app will rattle off a phrase at normal speed in two different voices (male and female) and have me transcribe it in Bulgarian. I sometimes have to get it to repeat itself, but even so, my results are very close to 100%. This tells me that I’m getting an ear for the language and that the gibberish might not yet be coalescing into individual words, but it’s at least starting to become sounds I can visually represent and remember.

The more languages I am exposed to, the easier it is to grasp basic words and phrases in another, but it can get very confusing if I try to get any in depth knowledge. For example, my instinct is to say “oocho” rather than “oocha” because the O ending in Spanish is for the first person while A is for third person. And I keep wanting to say Yo rather than Az and Si instead of Da!

I’m only going to be in Bulgaria for three months, so I’m not expecting to make huge strides with the language. But it would be nice if by the end of the first month I can at least exchange pleasantries with the neighbours and ask for things at the deli counter. When I get to Yablanitsa (tomorrow?) just being able to point and say, “Butter, please” will feel like huge progress over my first shopping trip. I also need to make more of an effort with the numbers, if only for when I shop at the Friday market.

I still cannot believe that I am in Bulgaria of all places. But this feels like exactly where I need to be right now.

Back At Work!

I was thinking of attempting the walk to Yablanitsa today, but then remembered that I’m waiting on a PayPal transfer to my travel account so I might as well wait to go to town so I can make a cash withdrawal at the same time. I have other money I could transfer to my travel account if I was desperate for groceries, but I’m not. So I’m okay with waiting a day. I’m just bored with the food I have left and look forward to having the time to do a proper shop at my own pace. 🙂

Thankfully, there was work available to me when I got up this morning. I did a tiny job sitting at the kitchen table on a stool, but that’s as much as I could manage. Now, I’m sitting in the IKEA chair with my laptop in my lap. It’s actually pretty comfortable and surprisingly functional, but it’s hard to be focused and in “work mode” sitting like this!

The time zone difference with my clients is rather trippy (they are seven to ten hours behind me, so I wake up as they are going to bed) and I have to keep reminding myself that I am ahead. So I won’t be missing anything, just getting emails in the afternoon. I may have to adjust my schedule to working later in the day and not be as much of a morning person as I’ve been the last several years.

I do have to say I rather like having almost no emails waiting in the morning as it makes it so much easier to go out with the dogs and get some fresh air and exercise before getting to work. I had all these intentions of walking first thing in the morning when I was on Isla, but then I’d wake to pressing emails I felt I had to answer right away and before I knew it, morning was well underway and the chance for a quiet walk had passed. I think my three months here will do me a world of good, both physically and mentally. They are going to fly by!

Back to work I go. I love how quiet it is here!

How I Taught Myself to Read Bulgarian Cyrillic Script In a Few Hours

I’m a visual learner and it’s easier to memorise lists of words than sounds when I’m learning a language. So I knew I had to learn Bulgarian Cyrillic script before I could even attempt to learn the language. I’d already successfully learned to read Japanese hiragana characters, so I knew I could learn Bulgarian Cyrillic.

Bulgarian Cyrillic wound up being much, much easier because I could understand so many of the words I could now read since they are similar to the equivalent word in French, English, or Spanish. There are a lot of French loan words in Bulgarian, which definitely gives me an edge. Also, Bulgarian is a phonetic language, so there is one way to pronounce sounds, with only a few exceptions. So once you know what sound goes with which letter, you can read anything.

I started to learn to read Bulgarian Cyrillic with the name of the town I would be living close to, Ябланица, Yablanitsa. That gave me 8 of the 32 letters suddenly representing sounds rather than just being squiggles on a page. This became my key word on which I built my knowledge, but I still had three quarters of the alphabet left to learn.

I started with the letters that look like Latin/Roman characters and sound the way an English speaker would expect them to sound: А, Е, К, М, Т, О. Remember these with the phrase, “O, make tea!”

The consonants K, M, and T are pronounced like in English. English vowels have different pronunciations, but that’s not the case in Bulgarian:

А is like the a in palm.
Е is like the e in best.
О is like the o in order.

Next, I learned the letters that look like Latin/Roman characters, but are pronounced differently, В, Н, Р, С, У, and Х.

В was easy for me because I speak Spanish, which pronounces the letter very closely to the English sound V. In Bulgarian, В is pronounced like the V in vet.

I used a mnemonic device to remember Н and Р, a three-letter English word that starts with what the letter looks like and ends with what it sounds like.

HEN reminded me that Н is pronounced like the N in normal.

РAR reminded me that Р is pronounced like the R in rabbit.

С wasn’t difficult. An English C can sound like an S or a K. Since Bulgarian already has a K sound, C has to be the S sound. So С in Bulgarian is pronounced like the S in sound.

У sounds like the “oo” in tool. So I used yoohoo to remember it.

X sounds like the Scottish ch as found in “loch,” a guttural sound that is difficult for English speakers. It is used in Bulgarian Cyrillic to represent the English H as in hell sound as that’s the closest to the Scottish ch we have in English. So when I think of the Bulgarian X, I think of hell!

Next come letters that kind of look like Latin/Roman characters if you squint, б, Г, З, И, Й, Л, П, Ц, Ч, Ш, Щ, Ъ, Ь, Я, and Ф.

Notice that Bulgarian has several letters that look like the Latin/Roman letter B? Yes, it is very confusing. No, I have not mastered telling them apart just yet!

б is the Bulgarian B, like baby. It looks enough like a B to be easily rememberable to me.

Ъ is a vowel that sounds like the U in turn.

Ь is a “soft sign” that I haven’t wrapped my brain around yet. It’s not always pronounced, but if it is, it’s like the Spanish ñ, or the yn in canyon.

I am learning to differentiate Ъ and Ь by the way the word sounds and also because the U-sounding one has a tail. T for tail leads me to T for turn and its U sound.

Г is a hard G sound, like great. I remember RAG.

З kind of looks like a Z if you squint (it helps that I put a line through my zeds). So it sounds like the Z in zoo.

И is another vowel, I like in machine. I remember IN. That’s backwards from my other mnemonic devices, but that’s the point. Backwards N sounds like EE and backwards IN gives me a word that sounds like “Nee.”

Й looks a bit like the Spanish Ñ and that’s all I need to remember it sounds like the Y in yoyo.

Л and П look similar, but I didn’t have any trouble with them because my association for Л is so strong.

Л Looks like my bottom half with my crooked leg. That’s all I need to remember that Л is L as in leg.

П sounds like the P in papa. It looks like an N, so I remember NAP.

Ц might look like a U, but it’s actually pronounced TS like in fits. I remember this one simply because it’s in Yablanitsa.

Ч still trips me up as it looks so much like У. It is the CH sound like in chip, which rhymes with yip.

Ш sounds like the sh sound in shod. I remember WISH.

Щ sounds like the sht sound in schtick or the end of the verb fished. Since it’s Ш with something more, I remember WISHED.

Я sounds like the ya in yarn. I remember it because it’s the first letter in Yablanitsa.

Ф might look like an O, but it’s F as in food. I remember OFF.

That leaves us with only three letters that look rather alien, Д, Ж, and Ю.

Д looks a bit like a shaky A, but is the D sound. So I remember AD.

Ж is a zh sound. The closest in English is the S in treasure. It is also used to make a soft G sound, like in gel. I don’t have a mnemonic device for this one.

And that leaves us with Ю, which is like the U in menu. I don’t have a mnemonic device for this one either.

Once you memorise the sounds, you will be surprised by how much you can understand.

супермаркет is s-oo-p-e-r-m-a-r-k-e-t — supermarket.

хотел is h-o-t-e-l — hotel.

ресторант is r-e-s-t-o-r-a-n-t — restaurant.

такси is t-a-k-s-ee — taxi.

бира is b-ee-r-a — beer.

натурален is n-a-t-oo-r-a-l-e-n — natural.

If you speak French, the number of words you will recognise will be even larger:

жилетка is zh-i-l-e-t-k-a — gilet (vest).

магазин is m-a-g-a-z-i-n — magasin (store).

екипаж is e-k-ee-p-a-zh — équipage (crew).

багаж is b-a-g-a-zh — bagages (baggage).

кафе is k-a-f-eh — café (coffee).

котлет is k-o-t-l-e-t — côtelette (chop (eg. pork)).

Once I learned the Cyrillic alphabet, I forced myself to use it. I do language exercises on my phone and insist on using Cyrillic rather than having the app transliterate for me. It is still very painstaking work, but it is getting easier and there are words that I now immediately recognise and don’t have to sound out. There are a few sounds that don’t seem to be as common, so when I get comfortable with a word that has one of those sounds, I use it as a key. I also force myself to read everything around me that I can, even if I don’t understand most of it!

Being able to read Cyrillic helps immensely, but, of course, I’m limited in what I understand. Also, like with Latin/Roman script, there are an infinite number of fonts and handwriting looks very different. For example, street signage in the area uses a peak, like of like an upside down V, for Л. But since the other letters look familiar, I was able to adjust to that.

I haven’t yet learned to write Cyrillic. The above script is what’s used in print. Handwritten Cyrillic is very different.

As a bonus, there are many languages that  look and sound very similar to Bulgarian. Don’t make the mistake of thinking they are interchangeable (ie. that you can learn Russian and you’ll be able to read Bulgarian or vice-versa fluently), but they are close enough that there is a measure of mutual intelligibility. You have no idea how excited I got the day I discovered I could read and understand some Russian! I’m planning to go to Serbia next and while its alphabet has a few differences from Bulgarian, the two are close enough that I’ll have an edge when I start looking at that language.

Learning Cyrillic was easy for me once I was motivated to do so. It really took only a couple of hours to learn the bulk of the letters and then I spent dozens of hours applying my knowledge. I carry a cheat sheet with me at all times and if I forget what a sound is, I look it up rather than skipping over it. I think anyone coming to countries that use Cyrillic would find it to their advantage to learn how to read it.