Ontario

Been twenty-two years since I travelled this way…
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Been twenty-two years since I travelled this way…

and I made Halifax day last Friday (with all my apologies to Stan Rogers).

I have some strong memories of Nova Scotia from my last trip there as a child, but it had been long enough since I’d been for me to feel it was necessary to revisit the area. Also, my last visit to the Maritimes was to New Brunswick, in 1994; just recently enough to remember things clearly, but long enough to coat the memories with romanticism. Even though my decision to move to Manitoba is firmly taken, I felt an inkling of regret at not giving the Maritimes a chance, too, as I love the ocean.

A friend’s move to Halifax and a subsequent request to come visit provided the perfect opportunity for me to test the waters, pun intended, and see if this ocean lover is really a landlubber at heart.

I’ll spoil the ending now: she is.

FRIDAY

An 8:30AM flight required an early start. Up at 5:30. Yawn. Thank goodness for the programmable coffeemaker!

The bus ride to the airport was very quick; in fact I was so immersed in a book that I almost missed my stop!!!

I’d checked in from home, so I only had to deal with security. There, I had to either surrender my hand cream and toothpaste or check my luggage. I picked the former.

Landing in Halifax is comparably spectacular to landing in San Francisco, only this time you land in a sea of conifers instead of salt water. Apparently, Halifax Airport was built where it is located, in the middle of nowhere, because it was never foggy there. Acres of trees were cut… and the fog rolled in.

First stop after the airport: Pete’s Frootique. Apparently, this store was featured prominently on a CBC noon-hour programme about twenty-years ago. It’s a produce store with a large section devoted to British products. It’s definitely an experience!

Next, we dropped off my luggage at Julie’s. Her apartment is huge and located in a coniferous enclave off the bay. There isn’t much around her place, but downtown is about twenty minutes away.

We then drove to Martinique Beach, which is the nicest in the Halifax area. To do this, we had to cross the MacKay Bridge and then all of Dartmouth. There is a fare both ways. I was amused by the fact that the ‘speed pass’ for the Halifax area is called a ‘MacPass’ as the other bridge is the MacDonald.

Martinique Beach was indeed gorgeous and Noel’s ravages were evident in the amount of seaweed on the beaches and the broken docks.

After a couple of hours, we drove home to change and then headed back downtown for dinner.

Julie took me to The Old Triangle, her favourite pub, which was very nice. My meal was an okay veggie burger and a Keith’s Indian, and we shared a Bailey’s chocolate pie for dessert. Just as we were thinking of leaving, a couple sat down beside us and we began to chat. They were retired Americans from Colorado who had traveled extensively throughout North America and seen a good chunk of the rest of the world. We were regaled with tales of their travels through Alaska and the Canadian Arctic. I really enjoyed making their acquaintance.

Feeling Welcome
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Feeling Welcome

in San Francisco, and I’m not even there yet. Neil just sent me details for how to get onto his computer and how to log on to the wireless network with my laptop. So, I can definitely be expected to post a few times from there! The following week, though, will depend on how compatible Blogger is with my laptop’s archaïc (and unupgradeable) browsers.


Packing is so much work now that I’m more style-conscious, WAH! I left for a MONTH in Scotland with a fraction of what I currently have in this suitcase… and I’m not done packing yet! What’s not helping is that I have to pack for four climates (home, SF, Vegas, LA) . But it looks like the suitcase will close without a) my having to ‘expand it’ or b) sit on it (or c) expand it AND sit on it), and I’ll have room left for ‘extras’ I’ll pick up along the way, so it’s all good. For carry on, I have a little matching bag which will hold my paperwork, notebook and pen, books, magazines, food supplies, and other sundries, and into which I’ll stuff my purse since my laptop doesn’t fit in it. Hopefully stuffing one bag into another will get me around the two article limit for carry on luggage…. I am proud that I’m not using the third suitcase in my set, a ‘carry on’ size. Next trip! 🙂

I’ve decided to try the bus to get to the airport this time to save 30$ (bus is 3$). So Tuesday 6AM will find me schlepping my luggage for two blocks to the Térrasses de la Chaudière where I’ll catch the 8 to Lebreton Flats, where I should have more than enough time (I hope) to catch a 97 that’ll get me to the airport for seven (it better). My plane technically leaves at 8:20.

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Glasgow to Montreal

6:51 AM

What a morning! I’ve been tossing and turning since a little past 5! At 6, I said enough! and I got up, showered, packed, etc. Although I’m not hungry, I figure it would be smart to get a bowl of cereal in me. Then, I’ll have to zoom downtown. So far, it looks like I might make the airport for 8:30. I could be there for 8, but I think it would be silly throwing away a free breakfast. Besides, I’m in no real rush, I don’t have to check in until 9. It feels weird to think that ‘tonight’, I’ll be sleeping in my own bed! I’ve put tonight in quote marks because it’ll be tonight in Canada, but very early morning here! The jet lag coming wasn’t too bad, but I hear that going west is worse. It’s like living the same day twice. Anyhoo, tomorrow should be interesting! When I get ‘home’ I want to soak, and wear something I haven’t worn in a month (I had the same three tee-shirts, one sweater, and one everyday pair of pants !).

9:01

I’m all checked in and ready to board at 10:15! It’s incredible: the subway arrived at the same time I did, then I got to the bus stance just as they were getting ready to go. Check in was a breeze, but it would appear that I have to get my luggage in Toronto to clear customs and then get it back on the plane. I’ll figure it out when I get there ! I bought (my uncle) a full litre of ‘Highland Park’ (no smaller size). I figure I might as well get him one I like rather than pick and choose at random. Edradour was more expensive (and not as good!) Turns out ‘Wallace’ is a liqueur made from single malt whiskey. Thanks for nothing, lady!

I just set my watch back to hometime. It’s 4AM there!!! I’ll be in Toronto at 13:15 EST. That’s 9 hours from now ! I have to catch my connecting flight at 15:00. It’s going to be tight!

12:08 EST (from now on, EST)

Despite some minor turbulence, the flight has been smooth. We’re flying over Quebec now. The in-flight movie was ‘Titanic’! Can you believe that the return flight is a whole two hours longer?! Due to winds we’re going to be delayed. Oh well, just so long as I’m on the plane for Montreal at 3!

I am amazed by the quality of the vegetarian (actually vegan) meals offered. Lunch was TOFU served with peppers and rice with bread and fruit salad and crackers for dessert. Our snack (well mine!) was a whole wheat bun with lettuce, tomato, and cucumber with orange juice and a tangerine on the side. Of course, I’ve had tea.

 

It was cool flying over the north(ish) Atlantic while the boat (‘Titanic’) sank (yes, I am morbid!). I can’t believe that movie still makes me cry. The worst/best part is at the end where the photographs are revealed and one sees that Rose has fulfilled all her dreams. Now, my dream has come true. This time around, I shed tears of understanding of the miracle incurred by the realisation of dreams, while the previous two times I wept out of petty jealously. Oh, I am no longer the same person anymore! I’m not even the least bit worried about clearing customs, etc. and making my 3:00 flight! Whatever happens, will happen. I can’t advert my fate. It’s fate, a fate I created that has brought me here. Jack Dawson’s right: ‘Make it count’, live each day. I realise now that each new dawn is full of opportunity and each new day full of adventure. Life can’t be perfect, but this is close!

4:20 pm

I made it!!! We arrived over a half hour late in Toronto, but I had no trouble clearing customs. My handbag had to be opened and rifled through, though, since the x-ray machine picked up something ‘weird’. (I had all my ‘hardware’ in there: clothes pins, miniature grappling hooks, and a pocket knife, among other things. The ‘searcher’ started laughing, she couldn’t believe how prepared I was for any situation!)

Leaving Toronto took forever. We taxied for over 15 minutes, then we had to queue (very Brit. word!) to take off. Now, we’ve landed, but our gate is currently occupied by another aircraft so we’ll have about 8 minutes to wait. (L. Pearson airport, Toronto, was undergoing major renovation, so planes were delayed leaving. The plane at our gate in Montreal was one such plane that had been delayed like ours.) This is the worse thing that’s happened to me since I left a month ago. Poor me!

Right now, it’s supposed to be 9:23 Glasgow time, but I feel on Montreal time. I’ll get back to you in a few hours! The snack this flight was ice cream on a stick. It was funny looking at the business travellers in ties and suits dealing with it!

It’s good, but weird, to be ‘home’. What is the definition of home ? I guess it’s where you understand what makes people tick (in both good and bad sense). It’s where the rhythm of life is so engrained in you as to be unnoticeable to you. It’s where you can ‘go with the flow’ and not have to think about it. I dinna ken, really. But when you’re home, you feel it. And this is home. Not Montreal as such, but Canada, in general. I understand Canadians. I can guess what motivates Scots, but only guess. I don’t know what motivates Canadians, but I do know how they think. I really am a Canadian above all else. These people, a veritable crazy quilt of cultures, are my people. I’m starting to get a sense of identity that I couldn’t see until I left the country and saw other cultures.

That’s it! I went to Scotland in search of myself, and succeeded. I am astounded by that last entry. I had to leave Canada in order to understand what makes me Canadian. I learned valuable lessons on this journey, lessons that will stick with me for ever, and through all my travels.

I know the journal is not always eloquent, but it was jotted down on trains, planes, and buses, while standing in line, or eating dinner. Sometimes, I’d just lean against the corner of a building or plop down on a bench somewhere. It was written during stolen moments of time. I cannot imagine travelling without it.

Thank you for sharing the most incredible adventure of my life with me.

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Traveling to and Arrival in Scotland

Wednesday June 10th, 1998 6:52 pm

I’m on flight 425 to Toronto, waiting for takeoff. I’m so nervous! Everything’s gone well so far, though. (My mother) and Grand-maman (who insisted on coming) took me out for supper. I tried a ‘Rickard Red’ beer. It’s… red! And delicious. Both agreed it would loosen me up but wear off by the time I got on the plane. They were right! I suppose that my nervousness comes from the fact that this is my first major trip where I’ll have only myself to rely on. I guess I’d feel better if I hadn’t listened to (my mother) and booked my bed at the Glasgow youth hostel. Anyhoo, I’m getting there early. If worse comes to worse I’ll have time to go to Paisley (!) Or Milgavie (pronounced ‘Mullguy’) and sleep there.

It’s so… peaceful here. Soothing music is playing. The setting sun comes through my window in golden rays. I feel that my whole life has come together, it’s all existed to reach this point in time. Yes, it’s like everything I’ve done in my life has lead up to this moment. It’s my hour, my month, and my dream. It’s up to me whether or not it becomes a nightmare. Think good thoughts! If this is a dream, it’ll be the best dream of my life, so there!

8:41

Waiting patiently for my 9:30 connection. [Everything’s going off without a hitch! It was funny, landing in Toronto, the new developments look like models of houses!]

The flight to Toronto was wonderful. The pressure I felt was minimal thanks to a bit of gum and some ginger ale! We even got free cheese flavoured ‘Sun Chips’.  At one point, we were flying between two levels of clouds. Our optimum altitude was about 35,000 feet. (My mother) bought me 3 magazines and I read one, as well as a terrific short story by (my best friend at the time).  So far so good.

9:17

I’m nestled quite comfortably in my seat for the flight to Glasgow. This time I knew how the seat belt worked! Why I don’t remember from last time is beyond me! Later.

July 11th, 1998 6:25 Glasgow time

The sun is rising over the Atlantic in golden pink magnificence.

8:16 GT

The food (I got my vegetarian option) has been delicious! I got an hour snoozet after seeing ‘The Man in the Iron Mask’. Now, the clouds have cleared. ‘The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls’.

map

12:36 GT

[I am so discouraged!!!] Nothing is going as I ‘planned’. Haggis (the operator of the jump on/jump off tour I followed the first half plus a bit of my journey) is picking me up at 4:30 tomorrow. I’ll be sleeping in Edinburgh tomorrow night. I guess I’ll be doing my circuit backwards, backtracking to Edinburgh for the 27th. I’ll do Ben Nevis later rather than earlier. Now that I’m putting this down on paper, I’m getting more relaxed. I mean I’m here aren’t I? (The Glasgow youth hostel that is?) Unfortunately, I won’t have access to my bed until 2:00. Since I’ll be ‘stuck here’ till tomorrow, I think I’ll just stay in this afternoon (maybe I’ll feel different once I’m clean and changed) and get an early night! I’ve already spent the £20 allocated to today on bus to the city, bus to the hostel, bed (£11.50) and £5 phone card. I’ll pull out £5 and try to get some dinner. I did say £25 a day. It’s understandable that the first day is a little more expensive.

I must say that my first view of Scotland was breathtakingly beautiful. It’s so lush and green and hilly! I saw Loch Lomond from above. Unfortunately, fatigue and stress are masking any joy I should be feeling. To be honest, I’d give my right arm to be in my bed right now! But this is only the first day. It’ll most likely get better once I’m out in the country.

I sat next to a really nice woman on the plane. She’s from Calgary, but she’s lived in Scotland. She told me lots of great stories. She also gave me a card so that I can contact her if I have any questions.

Actually, I think that once I get access to my room, I’ll go straight to bed! I’m not in a mood to go anywhere. I’d better perk up soon, I have ‘I’m-so-enthusiastic-I-never-want-to-leave’ postcards to send! Yes, I’m sure that the picture will be brighter in the morning.

I’m in Scotland. It looks a lot like home (one part on the way from the airport looked like the 10 near St. Lambert!), but it feels different. Glasgow has yet to impress me. What I’ve seen is dirty. I said the same thing about New York, and you know how I loved N.Y.C.!

I’m enjoying using £’s and p’s, etc. ‘They’ have half-pound coins. Their shape is funny! I have no change left for tomorrow. I’m going to get more cash tomorrow afternoon since I don’t know how the banks and ATMs are on the weekend. (You can use the ATM’s seven days a week, but not every bank will accept a withdrawl from an overseas account. I had the best luck with the Clydesdale bank. By taking out money once a week, I only used cash for my trip and I had very little on me at all times, most of which I kept in a secret pouch next to my skin. The exchange rate was actually better than what was offered in ‘bureau de change’ and the exchange from dollars to pounds was made automatically and immediately.)

I’m going to be okay. I know I am. But right now I’m tired, dirty, and probably hungry, only I’m to tired to go in search of food. Maybe a short nap!

3:06 GT

Everything’s going to be okay. This is a very nice hostel. My £11.50 includes sleepsack and pillowcase as well as breakfast. We have a private shower and toilet. I just took a shower. Unfortunately, it was ice cold! I do feel much better now! Totally excited and ready to do some serious sight seeing! Amazing what a change of clothes can do!

There are white clouds, but boy is it sunny! (It was so sunny my first week I actually got a minor sunburn!)

7:02 pm (from now on, unless otherwise mentioned, G.T.)

I did about 3 hours worth of walking this afternoon. I made it to the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum and had one hour to wander around the unimpressive exhibits. Oh, there was interesting stuff, but nothing new except for a painting of Burns. Unfortunately, ‘Massacre at Glencoe’ was no longer on exhibit. Figures.

I then got myself purposely lost searching for food without a map. I eventually ended up buying a cheap (but delicious and filling) veggie burger at the European (or at least Scottish) equivalent of a fast food joint. But here there’s little fast but rather lots of courtesy and edible food.   ‘When in doubt, do as the locals do’ and it was obvious that the owner had ‘regulars’. Sure, the place was kind of seedy. Who cares? When I got out of there, nibbling on my very yummy potato/cheese/chive burger, I was caught by an unexpected spill of rain (ain’t that poetic?) The rain came down really weirdly, it looked and felt like long filaments of water rather than individual droplets.

Some observations:

  • the toilets flush on the other side
  • the toilets only eat half the amount of t.p. the North American toilets eat
  • there are no stop signs! (I saw perhaps a half dozen during my whole stay!)
  • driving on the left makes for confusing street corners and circulation patterns
  • although I don’t eat many at home, the ‘Snickers’ bar tastes a little different here. I could pinpoint it only if I had a blind taste test or something
  • Glasgow’s layout is confusing, you think you’re going straight, but you’re actually going around in circles!

Glasgow’s endearing, it’s actually growing on me! It’s sort of a cross between Montreal (cosmopolitan, architecture), Quebec City (hills, architecture), Ottawa (feeling of intimacy, architecture)!

I figured out why most of Scotland’s cities appear to be built on hills. Coming from a new country it is easy to forget that her towns have been around for millennia, and were originally built on top of hills for defence purposes. Eventually, the towns spilled down the hillside.

I’ll see more of it tomorrow as I’ll explore (drumroll please) the City Centre! It’s kind of silly, in a way, that I’ll have to lug my butt down there with all my luggage and then have to lug it all the way back here to catch Haggis. I think I’ll take a bus back, though. This way, I’ll have more time. Unfortunately, I didn’t make it to the Museum of Transportation, but it’ll be way out of my way tomorrow, it seems. I’ll recheck the map, though.

Did I mention I made my first telephone call today, to Edinburgh? It wasn’t nearly as expensive nor as complicated as I would have thought. Besides, my £5 phone card is somehow worth £6! I have Bank of Clydesdale notes. They aren’t very attractive (except for the twenties, which have a lovely likeness of Robert the Bruce on them !) I think I’ll go to bed now. The water here is really quite good. My only complaint is that I’m either too hot or too cold. (note to self: bring long sleeved tee-shirts next time! (little did I know I would head this advice during my 2016 trip to London!))