Yablanitsa

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Not a Good Day

The food stores started to run low late Tuesday. Not a problem, I thought, we have the small shop in the village. Well, it might have at one point been sufficient to cover the “essentials,” but it certainly isn’t now and it’s not a reliable source for something so basic as bread. I’ve barely bought any bread for home in the last couple of years, but it’s being a staple here. If I’d been able to get a loaf Tuesday or Wednesday morning, I would have lasted to market day, tomorrow, but the shop has been out. I asked the English-speaking guesthouse owner if that’s normal and he said yes, bread is hit or miss at the shop. Wonderful. They also did not have toilet paper yesterday, another thing I’d been assured they stock.

I might have been able to stretch things a little further if the restaurant here in the village wasn’t so intimidating. I went to investigate it last night, but the person who greeted me had no patience for me. The only menu was a handwritten sign written in a form of Cyrillic I haven’t learned yet and all I could recognise was bean soup. I pointed to that and was told, “Ne.” Okay, maybe they were out. So I asked for salad, which is a staple of Bulgarian cuisine. “Ne.” They were definitely open and people were eating, but something crucial was obviously being lost in translation. I apologised for bothering her and headed home.

So despite really not having time for a trip to Yablanitsa today, and it being about 35C by the time I was able to take off, I had to go to town today or else I’d only have plain potatoes or the really crappy mushy pasta the village store sells to eat until tomorrow.

It was a very, very, very long walk under a broiling sun, but I finally made it to town. I made a withdrawal at the ATM and went to the supermarket… which had no cheese, deli meats, yoghurt, sour cream, and more. I found myself having walked 6KM, with a return trip to “look forward” to for toilet paper, bread, and jam?! I was pleased to find brown rice and soy sauce as I was heading out since I can do plain brown rice and soy sauce for days on end if I have to. The soy sauce bottles said “соев сос.” “So-ev” sort of sounds like soy and coc is pronounced sauce. A quick dictionary check confirmed I’d struck gold, but there were four different bottles. The first one had a word underneath soy sauce that sounded like “classic” and that was good enough for me. Rather sad that finding soy sauce was the highlight of my day.

As I dejectedly started walking back towards the town square, I noticed another shop with a sign that clearly said “food store.” Oh, those nightly lessons are starting to pay off! I went in and it was a very cramped deli-type place. No room, really, to look at labels and translate things since there were a lot of customers. I figured another few days of salami sandwiches won’t kill me so I pointed to some in a case and spread my fingers to show how much I wanted and did the same for a bit of cheese (“sirene” is their feta-style cheese and “kashkaval” is a harder cheese that’s good in sandwiches — I asked for the latter). At the till, I asked the lady if she could call a taxi for me. “Ne.” 🙁 🙁 🙁

There is a fast food place that sells pizza-like stuff right around from the bus stop, so I went there to see if I could get lunch. They were out. The only other fast food place I’d noticed also was out of whatever they normally have. I’m starting to understand now how happy some folks are to see a McDonald’s in foreign country… I cannot believe how intimidating it is to go to a restaurant out here. I’m hoping that I will get my weekend in Sofia so I can break that ice.

I did pass a sit down restaurant on the way out of town, but it was getting really late and I had tons of work to do (still face another three hours tonight and it’s past 4:00), so I didn’t investigate it. I just began the very, very, very long schlep back to Malak Izvor.

The sun was just broiling, as bad as anything I’ve experienced in Maz in the winter. Absolutely relentless. I had to stop in shady spots for a bit to get the courage to keep going. Yes, I had water, and I got through a lot of it!

I was about 2KM from home when I got picked up by an English couple that lives in the area. They knew that I’m staying at Max’s. In the very short ride, I was able to confirm that if I can catch the Teteven bus at the junction of the main road, they will pick me up, but good luck with that since the schedule isn’t very precise. I also learned that the two food stores I’ve been to in Yablanitsa are it. If I had been in the opposite situation, knowing that my passenger had walked more than 10KM in that heat, I would have offered to drive them all the way home, but I was dropped off at the guesthouse, with the steep final slog to do. But I was grateful to have gotten off my feet for just that little bit.

I have to confess that it would have been really nice to be “adopted” by someone here to learn basics, like how to order at the village restaurant and how to get the taxi (which I have seen, so I know it exists). Someone with a car to pop in once or twice a week and say, “Hey, you must be getting cabin fever. How about you take me to lunch in Teteven if I drive?” It’s very clear that none of the British expats here are interested in that job. I don’t blame them since such a position can be quite time consuming, although I’d like to think I wouldn’t take advantage of the help or use my contact as a taxi service.

I really hope that my weekend in Sofia happens because I need a reset and a chance to do a proper grocery stock up (although I haven’t figured out yet the logistics of getting groceries home all the way from Sofia). I doubt I’ll be going to the market tomorrow, but with there being a better chance of getting a lift there and back than there is other days, I may reconsider.

Well, I’m off to take my doggies on their walk. I’m sunburned, foot sore, and clean out of energy reserves, so who knows how far we’ll get, but at least I’ll make the effort. I was so happy to come home to them this afternoon since they were so pleased to see me. Penghu was put upon that I’d kicked him out of the house before leaving, so he haughtily hissed at me and ran off.

I’m okay, just frustrated that the grocery situation is proving to be so much more complicated than I expected it to be. At least, beer and ice cream are easily accessible! 😀

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Market Day in Yablanitsa

Friday mornings here are going to be like Sunday mornings in Mazatlán, but more regular since they’re my only source of really fresh produce.

I wanted to get quite a bit of work done before the 10AM PST invoice deadline (8PM here), so I set off at 8AM to be back home by noon. I walked to just past the restaurant when I got offered a lift by a couple who then picked up an old lady at the corner where we turn left for town. It was a bit of an awkward drive because they were really curious about me and not daunted by my lack of Bulgarian. Over 5KM, they managed to learn about me:

-I’m not English, but Canadian;

-I live in Maluk Izvor, not Sofia;

-I was not on my way to Sofia, but on the way to the market and stores in Yablanitsa (by the way, took a guess and said “bazaar” for the market as that’s fairly universal word and that was bang on!);

-Max is the reason I’m here.

They dropped me off near the square and then I headed to the market. I took a few pictures, but it was really too much to juggle a notebook for people to write prices in, a wallet, bags of shopping, etc. It really is a lot like the markets I experienced in Maz, complete with the smell of cooking sweet corn! It’s just as hot, too!

Here’s an overview of what I’m going to call “vegetable lane”. All those colourful umbrellas in the background are produce stands, more veggies than fruits.

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Need live fowl?

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Or carpets? The capri vendor in the foreground at the left was there last week and is hopefully a regular since I know I’ll be going through my capris by the end of the summer. Her stock is much better quality.

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Like in Mexico, LOTS of shoe vendors!

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I’m pretty sure you can find almost anything at the Friday market. Here are some tools and hardware:

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I started by scoping out the wares and making a shopping list of sorts, then bravely waded into the crowd. I had a notebook handy for folks to write prices in. I have been studying my numbers, but, get this, how numbers are written and how there are said is different and there are variations on the oral variations! I knew this going in and had no expectation of understanding prices, so when I did, I was very pleased!

Here’s my final haul:

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Produce prices here warrant an OMG:

Tomatoes: 1.20BGN/0.90CAD

Onions: 0.70BGN/0.53CAD

Cucumbers: 0.80BGN/0.60CAD

Potatoes: 0.80BGN/0.60CAD

Carrots, green onions, beet, courgettes, hot peppers: 1.15BGN/0.86CAD

1 kilo of apricots: 2BGN/1.50CAD

Bananas: 1.20BGN/0.90CAD

Total for all this: 5.89CAD.

I bought the bananas on the way out of town and the man rattled off a price that I was pretty sure was 1.20BGN, so I pulled out a one-leva coin and a 20 stotinki coin and passed them over with an uncertain, “Dobre?” (Okay?) He grinned and said, “Mnogo dobre!” I knew that meant “very good”! This was the most “complicated” price I’d understood this morning and felt like a huge milestone. When I bought the tomatoes, onions, and cukes, I had the girl write the first two prices down and realised she was quoting me in stotinkis, so for the cucumber price, I wrote down what I understood, 80 stotinki, and that was correct. Progress!

I got all the veg first and then looked for fruit, of which there was not much. It appears to be apricot and cherry season. I couldn’t imagine getting the cherries home, so I went with the apricots and said, “Beek iskal edno kilo molya.” The vendor said. “Dobre!”, weighed out a huge handful, took out three to get to the kilo, put two back into his pile, and gave me an extra one as a gift! I really had no idea how much a kilo of apricots would be, but it ended up being the amount I would have picked out on my own. That was a big exchange and my first chance to try out my brand new “I would like ______, please” phrase. Guess that one’s mastered. My extra apricot was very good. 🙂

I then went to the supermarket to pick up a few things. I’ve been spending “a lot” on groceries since I got here, but I am rather building up a pantry and I know my expenditures will go down. I’m hoping to not need to go to town again till next Friday and to get whatever I may need at the little village shop…

One thing I’ve been trying to find since I got here is a cheap notebook for doing my lessons in. I don’t want to use my new Moleskine for that and I couldn’t find even scrap paper around the property. I’ve been shocked by how hard it has been to find paper or a notebook. So when I passed a little shop in which I saw heaps of pens, I figured I’d struck gold and found a stationery store. Yes! Unfortunately, like a lot of shops here (and in Mexico, for that matter), everything is behind a counter and you can’t really “shop.” I just pointed to a notebook at random and bought it. It’s a bit larger than what I’d envisioned, but the wide line spacing will be really good for practicing my Bulgarian calligraphy. The price was right, too.

I’d reached the limit of what I felt I could carry home and headed back to the market for bananas, then stopped at an ice milk vendor. What ensued still cracks me up. I asked for chocolate in Bulgarian and he replied, in German, “How many?” Without registering that A) the guy had spoken German and B) that I understood him, I replied, “Zwei, bitte”!!!! He made my cone and continued,in German with, “One, please,” I passed over a lev, and said, “Thank you very much!” still in German. I guess that’s 15 weeks of German 20 years ago paying off?!

I then began the long walk home and got, oh, maybe a kilometre from town when a guy pulled over and offered me a lift. Picture Wladimir Klitschko in a car so tiny he couldn’t even sit up straight in it, a car full of stuffed toys, with a baby seat in the back, and no fewer than three baby on board signs. I said, “Maluk Izvor,” and he motioned for me to get in. As we got to the turnoff for the village he spoke quickly and made hand gestures that I interpreted as “I’m not going to Maluk Izvor, but I’ll take you in and then turn around.” I wasn’t too sure, though, and didn’t want to take advantage, so when we got to the corner, I said, “Dobre,” and started to unfasten my seat belt. He said, “No, no,” and again made the sign of turning around. So he drove me into the village and at the restaurant, I said that this was fine and thanked him profusely.

So I just had the long uphill schlep to home, where I got in at 10:15! Town really isn’t far when you get lifts!

Last night, I did some research on the possibility of renting a car while I’m here. The best price I found was 1,200 euro for three months. *gulps* I can’t justify that. But I am going to consider going to Sofia by bus the first chance I get and then coming back with a rental car for, say, a week, just to give me some freedom to go out during the day and explore. I’d really like to go back to Teteven and up to the monastery. I could drop the car off in Sofia when I’m done and come back on the bus. Something to consider.

It was a very good day in town. Next thing I need to do is eat at a restaurant!

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I Found Coffee!

I really don’t think I’m a coffee snob, but I definitely know what I like and I have an opinion about what “real” coffee tastes like. It was difficult to find something suitable in Mazatlán. I did not find good supermarket ground coffee until my very last trip to Mega, when I was able to do a taste test, so I did trips to the Golden Zones to buy fresh beans that I had to grind myself. Coffee was a bit of a production in Mexico!

When I was in Yablanitsa on Tuesday, I had to come home with coffee since I only had a cup or two left of my Canadian grounds. I found the coffee section in the tiny supermarket and noticed that it was dominated by a German brand, Tchibo. I did a quick search and learned that it’s a chain of German coffee shops, like Starbucks or Tim Hortons, and is popular the world over. That seemed like a safe bet and a package wasn’t expensive, only about 4CAD so it wouldn’t be an expensive experiment. I bought their dark roast and tried it out yesterday.

The flavour of first cup took a bit of adjusting to, but I knew that with a bit of tweaking, it would be just fine. It’s a very finely ground coffee and I use a French press, so I have to use less than I would use of coarser grounds and also reduce my steeping time. I’m on my third cup of this coffee and I think I’ve figured it out since I’m really enjoying it!

BTW, the house comes with an espresso maker. When I told Max last Thursday, my first morning here, that I’d had coffee, he was surprised that I’d found and figured out the coffeemaker, and even more so that I’d brought my own coffeemaker with me! I love my French press. It makes good coffee, is uncomplicated to use, and is easy to clean. I can’t be bothered to learn an espresso maker.

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First Solo Trip to Yablanitsa

Groceries were down to the bare bones today. Since I had no work in the queue, I figured it would be the perfect day to see just how accessible Yablanitsa is. Google Maps told me I had a 6KM walk ahead of me and Apple Maps said 10KM! 12KM roundtrip would be just doable, but 20KM would be pushing it and I’d definitely investigate the taxi service Jenny told me about.

I set off with my backpack, once again pleased that I bought it for my trip. I loaded it with water, documentation (I was told to always have my passport on me as ID checks are common), and, of course, money, and set off.

It’s straight downhill into the village. I I didn’t look forward to that slog on the return trip!

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Here’s the gate into the property. Duck when going through the door!

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Street sign. Says, “Street Zdravets.”

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Now at the bottom of my road at the intersection of the main road through the village.

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Sign indicating that there is a monastery that way. Max and Jenny told me I have to go there. I will when I get more details.

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Our little village square with the small shop where you can get essentials (where the brown overhang is).

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Looking back up the main road.

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A restaurant. I could read the menu, but my dictionary didn’t recognise much on it…

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Heading out of town, I saw a car with a Czech plate. All cars in the EU appear to have a similar license plate, either white or yellow (I saw both in the UK), with the left side being blue with the symbol of the EU and a two-letter country code. I think you can legally drive a car plated in any EU country in any other EU country.

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This rather nice looking property is for sale.

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16,000 Euro sounds like a bargain…

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The flora here is similar to back in Quebec. Cornflowers…

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And these little bell things I like whose name I really should know.

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The mountains up here remind me of driving to Durango.

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Leaving the limits of Malak Izvor. I didn’t know it, but I was just shy of a third of the way to Yablanitsa by this point.

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Unlike the UK, Bulgaria has stop signs. I had to turn left here.

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Funny that there was no sign at the corner saying Yablanitsa thataway, but in the opposite direction, there was a sign for Malak Izvor.

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I was surprised when I saw this sign, thinking I’d arrived, but I still had a good 2KM to go.

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About 1KM from town, I man pulled over and offered me a ride. Max, Jenny, and Sarah all told me to accept such offers during the daytime as hitching is a very common thing to do around here and nothing untoward has ever happened. The local population is fairly small and people get to know each other. If I declined the lift, the odds were good I’d never get another offer. So I got in and said, “Yablanitsa ATM” and he said, “Sure” and then rattled off something. I stared at him and he smiled and said, “Malak Izor”? AH! “Da!” 😀

He dropped me off in front of the green bank (there’s also a blue bank, but Max told me to use the green one) and I thanked him.

Here’s the main square in Yablanitsa. For some reason, I put my camera away after and forgot to take more pictures!

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After making a withdrawal, I had to find the supermarket. I wandered around a bit trying to get my bearings and then identified that the street the green ATM is on (the one you see in the photo above going left and right, not the one with the cars parked) is a main thoroughfare. I headed down it (left in the picture) looking for the supermarket and eventually spotting it. I wasn’t sure it was the store I’d been in with Max, but it said supermarket so I figured it would do even if it wasn’t, but it was.

I took my time shopping, managing to get everything on my list except chicken broth. My dictionary app proved to be useless (glad it was a free one) and I was happy I had access to Google translate to confirm what I guessed I was holding (like tomato sauce with mushrooms, *shudders*). I knew that the good butter was in the deli case, so I took a deep breath and went there, where I said, “Butter, please,” to the clerk. She nodded and said, “One?” holding up a finger for a good measure. “Yes, one. Thank you!” My first successful exchange in Bulgarian!

The till was less successful. I knew from my first trip that I would pay and then be asked for 0.25BGN deposit on my beer bottles. So I was all ready for that, but the cashier took my 0.25BGN from what I’d paid her. It took me a moment to understand that she was telling me, “I already took your bottle deposit from your change” and not “You still owe me for the bottle deposit.” Now that I know the deposit is 0.25BGN for two bottles, the next time I buy beer there I will put the 0.25 with them when I get to the till to show that I know I’m expected to pay a deposit.

I came out of the store and loaded up my backpack. I had too much for it unless I wanted to smoosh the bread, but I got all the heavy things in and only had some light things to carry separately.

That was the limit of the excitement I could handle for one day, so I decided to head home. As I did so, I passed a convenience store with an ice cream cooler outside. I grabbed a chocolate Magnum-style bar (chocolate ice cream covered with chocolate and peanuts on a stick). The price was listed as 1.45BGN, so I dug out 1.50 before going inside to pay. My treat was really good! 😀

The trip home was a bit of a slog since most of it was uphill. I really don’t mind walking to Yablanitsa, but I will definitely figure out how to arrange for a taxi back from now on. I’m told it’s only 6 to 8BGN (4.80 to 6.40CAD).

My trip only took me three hours so I should be able to cut that to two if I take a taxi back. Yablanitsa is definitely further than I’d been told it was, but is certainly close enough to feel accessible. I look forward to going to the market on Friday and having more time to browse at my leisure.

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Settling In In Bulgaria

I am living in a small village about an hour southeast of Sofia, Maluk Izvor (Малък извор). There isn’t much here, but there is a small shop and a cafe. Shopping is done in Yablanitsa (Ябланица) about 6KM away.

I’m living in what is very close to my dream house and what I would love to find in Mexico! All I’m missing is an extra bedroom to use as an office.

This is the exterior of the guesthouse. I live on the ground floor. Those windows you see in the white part are in my bedroom.

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The entry hall is the heart of the house. To the left is my bedroom:

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In the middle is the bathroom, and to the right is the kitchen:

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See what I mean about this being my idealised Mexican home? White plaster walls, dark beams on the ceiling, and colourful textiles.

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I have this cupboard for storage as well as hooks behind the door. It’s enough since I didn’t bring much!

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The bathroom is modern and has a huge Mexican-style shower with a rain-type shower head. Good pressure and tons of hot water!

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Here’s the lovely kitchen/sitting room. I wish there was a bigger armoire for storage, otherwise this is close to my dream kitchen!

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Under the kitchen counter are the fridge and washing machine:

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I have access to the whole property. If I go up these slightly scary stairs to the upstairs bedrooms and bathroom:

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I have access to a deck with amazing views!

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Here’s Maluk Izvor:

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This is the main house. It has a really neat layout, but is old and needs a lot of work and a feminine touch. I’m happy to be in the nearly brand new guesthouse.

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My only complaint about the house is that the bed is terrible. But even with that, I was so exhausted that I slept pretty much straight through my whole first night. I cursed my alarm when it went off, but I’d promised Max I’d be ready to go to to town by 9:00. I had coffee and ate a mouthful of trail mix (emergency rations that I’d been lugging all the way from SK!) since I was famished by this point. We took the dogs for a walk before going to town. The walk is straight uphill one way and downhill the other. I am going to get my exercise living here!

Here is Mechka (bear):

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And Mechka’s brother… Sausage (LOL):

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When we came back, Max promptly found me a comfortable chair to lounge in since I’d told him the house was lacking that. Doesn’t this sound familiar? LOL He found me one of those Ikea chairs that are very common and said he would look for something better, but, really, the chair he found is fine. He told me to poke around the property to find anything I’m missing, so when I found a very low stool, I took that to put my feet up.

We just need to work on my office space. Right now, there really isn’t anywhere for me to work, not every temporarily. I was promised a proper desk chair from Sofia in a couple of weeks, but we’ll see if that happens. I’m debating setting up my office upstairs, but will wait to see what sort of routine Max has during the summer as he said he’s here quite a bit and sometimes brings his young daughter with him.

After our walk, we headed to town, where we first stopped at the ATM. I was so disorganised that I hadn’t thought to move money to my travel account or figure out how many leva to take out. I knew I had about 90CAD in the travel account and vaguely remembered that 0.85GBGN was 1CAD. So I figured that I could very likely take out 100BGN. I asked Max if I would get anywhere with that and he said absolutely. The machine gave me my 100BGN without blinking (I’ve since learned that 1CAD=0.80BGN). We then went to a small supermarket where I picked up some basics, but was told to hold off on produce except bananas (which are excellent) since there is a market on Friday mornings and Max would arrange a lift for me. Food prices seemed very low, comparable to Mexico…

I was still in a bit of a daze and so it’s hard to give my first impressions of Maluk Izvor and Yablanitsa. The setting is very picturesque and the houses nearly all have terracotta roofs. It feels a lot like Mexico, but with a language barrier.

Max then had to be off, so he drove me back to the house and headed out. I was not too pleased to be left alone with no internet since I didn’t know  anyone and have almost no language skills, but was otherwise fine and very grateful to have the pets. I’d met the cat by this point, Penghu (sp?) and he fell in love with me and I with him. The minute I sit down, he’s in my lap or curled against me if I’m on my computer. That makes things a lot less lonely. Like in Mexico, I have the front door open the day, so he can come in and out, but he sleeps outside.

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I did my laundry, then crashed for the afternoon. I’m not sure where I found the energy to take the dogs for their walk in the afternoon, but I knew I had a cold beer waiting, so that helped!

Minutes after I got in, I got a visitor, Jenny, a UK citizen who did this gig once and now lives near here in her own house. She just came to introduce herself and to say that she’d pick me up in the morning to go to the market. I was very grateful to Max for setting that up!

I kept checking the internet and rebooting the modem all evening, but had to concede defeat around 9PM.

I didn’t sleep as well my second night (I need to get to Sofia and buy a topper ASAP!), but it still wasn’t bad. I was awake well before my alarm, but have to say I looked forward to being able to have a lie-in today! I had coffee and breakfast and then walked the dogs. They are SO good. They’re not on a lead, so they go off on their own, but they frequently come back to make sure I’m there and if we come to a fork in the path, they wait for me to make a decision. My first night, I actually wasn’t sure how to get home, having been silly and strayed from the path, and when I asked Mechka where home was, she confidently headed off in a direction that looked right, periodically turned back to make sure I was coming, and then sat on the trail to show me this was it. I know non-dog people will smirk at this, but two other Mechka and Sausage dogsitters confirmed that the dogs do this!

Then, I dressed for town. Jenny met me as promised and took me to the market, which felt a lot like markets in Mexico. She helped me buy produce, pointing out what was locally grown and what was not (apparently Greek produce is unacceptable to her because it’s not “local” — I’m pretty sure we’re closer to Greece than I am in SK to Alberta!). So she vetoed my purchases of oranges and apples, but convinced me to try a Bulgarian melon. I was very happy with the quality and price I paid for my produce, including avocados and some sort of hot peppers that just might be jalapeños. Jenny said, “You don’t want those. They’re very hot!” and I had to laugh and remind her that I live in Mexico part-time!

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No, this isn’t an old Mexico picture! 😀 The tomatoes here are MUCH better than in Mexico, to be honest, but a bit juicy for making salsa mexicana.

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We then met with Sarah, another UK expat who did this gig, and piled into Jenny’s car to go to the nearby town of Teteven (Тетевен), the nearest place I could get a SIM card. Jenny gets by in Bulgarian, but is cell phone clueless. She took me to a shop where I bought a SIM card and pay-as-you-go data plan, but, to be honest, I have no idea what I have or how long it’s good for. It was ridiculously cheap, though (29BGN for a SIM card and two 1GB top ups), so I’ll get more if I need it and at least I had something to tide me over until the landline internet got fixed… except that, like on Isla, I don’t have cell service at the house!

It was then time for a snack. Jenny had some sort of crême brulée thing while Sarah and I had ice cream. It’s HOT and humid here, as bad as Mazatlán has ever been for me, so we were pleased to sit in the shade with a cool treat! I must have come close to the correct word for chocolate when I ordered my ice cream because the man just pointed to a cone and a cup to see which I wanted (I said “chockolat” and it’s “shokolad”). Normally, it’d be a cup, but considering how much exercise it is to live in the mountains, the waffle cone didn’t feel like an excess. 😉

I was then taken to another little supermarket and helped in purchasing a few more things that I’m missing. I’m surprised that Bulgarians appear not to eat mustard. I’d mentioned mustard as being part of my shopping list and Jenny was listening as that was the ingredient that made her choose the shop she did. All they had was Dijon, though, no yellow mustard. Better than nothing, although I like to have both in the fridge! I didn’t want to buy meat since we had a long car ride ahead, but the meat didn’t look scary and I will buy some next time I go to Yablanitsa. I have salami, cheeses, yoghurt, and beans for protein until I get to that point.

My Bulgarian skills are completely non-existent and the language sounds alien so anything anyone tells me doesn’t stick. I’m doing a lot of smiling and shrugging while looking to my Bulgarian-speaking companions for help. I look forward to going shopping on my own so I can take my time reading labels. So many ingredients have names that are similar to French or English that I can muddle through that way. Jenny seems to speak sufficient Bulgarian but doesn’t read it, which amazes me! I am frustrated that the dictionary I bought for my phone requires web access and will look for an offline one. I did find a Bulgarian to English phrase book in the house library that will help me until I find something better. Thank goodness I took the time to learn how to read Cyrillic! I can scan the book for the English phrase and then read the Bulgarian exquivalent or point to it if I’m not sure of the pronunciation (words like bread and eggs are tough).

Today was the first time in a very long while that I was in no rush to get up. I dozed until 9AM, when Sausage literally knocked on the front door to demand his morning walk! I am very sore and exhausted from all the walking I did in London and the terrain here is challenging. So I had kind of hoped to do a partial rest day and only take the dogs out in the afternoon, but they wouldn’t let me get away with that! I took them up and then came back down to have coffee and breakfast. I had just put on my second cup of coffee when the dogs started barking. I checked the road and saw someone parked right in front of the house and standing at the gate. Mr. Internet Repairer! Woohoo! He rattled off something that included internet and I apologetically stammered out what I hoped meant “No Bulgarian” (I was close…). I took him upstairs to where the modem is and he fiddled with it for close to a half hour. Then, he turned to me and said, “Internet!” before stammering out “Router problem.” I checked my connection on my laptop and cheered when my emails started to pour in! I thanked him about four times as I guided him back to the gate.

And then, it was time to catch up with what I’ve missed since going offline… 🙂

I know that now that the internet issue is sorted, I will be very happy here. The setting is idyllic, I love the house and pets, and I’m not at all feeling closed in at living in such a rural area. It makes for a very small and very manageable world to learn. I have met one Bulgarian neighbour who does not speak a lick of English, but who seems very friendly. I learned one new word in our introductions, “dobre,” which means okay or good. I will make an effort to try to learn a new phrase or word every day and see what sticks.

Now that you’re all caught up on Bulgaria, prepare to return to London briefly!