Indefinite Closure of the Top of the World Highway

The continuing rains and washouts have threatened bridge integrity, so the Top of the World Highway connecting Dawson City, YT, and Chicken, AK, is closed indefinitely, with folks stranded along it and at least one person missing.

This is going to severely impact Dawson tourism. The prediction is that a season that was off to a roaring start has screeched to a halt.

I’m pretty bummed about this. I’d hoped to use one of my precious afternoons off to make a jaunt to Chicken and back, just to get out of town. There aren’t really any places to ‘go’ from Dawson within a reasonable day’s drive round trip and there’s no point in going back up the Dempster for a few hundred clicks since I’ll be doing it in its entirety in August.

But, at least I’m not stranded on a dirt track or lost in the muddy waters of the Yukon River.

Somewhere Over the Rainbow

There isn’t much to report these days beyond the closing of the Top of the World Highway due to washed out sections between the border and Chicken. I saw pictures of some of the damage and it looks like the apocalypse, with the road stopping at the end of a wide chasm. The road on that stretch is very sandy and unstable, so add in the unseasonably rainy weather we’ve had and you have a recipe for a lot of spoiled vacations. Some folks are extending their stays in Dawson, others are avoiding the town all together. We’re busy as ever, but as we head into the biggest weekend of the season, we have to wonder if it’ll be a bust.

As for me, I am working my tail off, having taken on another contract. There is a lot going on behind the scenes, but it is much, much too soon to be making announcements. All I can confirm is that there is a pot at the end of the rainbow. The next few months will tell me if it is filled with gold or pyrite. 😀

Watching the Clouds Come In

Today was sticky. I wound up turning on the AC for the first time this year! I thought that it was late compared to last year, but nope. Right now, there is a wonderful cool breeze and I can see some storm clouds rolling in so it’ll probably be a comfortable night.

It’s definitely been a wetter summer, but nothing like what I experienced in Vancouver or Campbell River. The nice thing about the flash storms is that they keep down the dust and forest fires. The not-so-nice thing about the flash storms is that they turn Dawson’s streets to rivers of mud. I’ve discovered that an ankle-length skirt, my uniform of choice, is not sensible fashion here on wet days!

Mammoths, Atlatls, and Plane Crashes

I touched a real honest to goodness fossilized mammoth bone on Tuesday. It was about 25,000 years old. And that was after seeing a mostly real honest to goodness, fully reconstructed, mammoth skeleton. I know I’m getting ahead of myself, but have you ever seen a mammoth skeleton???

So, ahem, one of the biggest and most visible attractions in Whitehorse, because it’s right off the Alaska Highway, is the Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre. I had no idea what Beringia is/was and thought the place was a tourist trap, so I never really thought about visiting it. But after so much time in the Yukon I’d begun to hear things about the place and it started to work at me. So, after I got in from my Kluane Country jaunt, I decided to go find out just what was this thing called Beringia.

Beringia is a lost continent, a landmass that joined Siberia and present-day Alaska during the last ice age. It was a fertile grassland known as the ‘Mammoth Steppe’ in which giant animals roamed the land.

Stories of those days have been passed down through the ages to the present native peoples of the Yukon. One archaeologist studied those legends to see if there was any realistic basis to them and was lead to the confluence of the Old Crow and Porcupine rivers where there had been a legend of a giant monster slain on those banks. That legend is now a true story, as the skeleton of the ‘giant monster’ was found thanks to this orally passed down story–it was a woolly mammoth! Talk about myth coming to life!

After watching a fifteen minute movie about Beringia we were invited to step outside to try our hand using an atlatl, commonly known as a spear thrower. I’m quite good with a bow and arrow, so I was eager to try this other ancient weapon. I did three throws and the teacher informed me that I was one of the best he’d ever seen! While the others aimed to throw their spears as far as they could, with their first throw failing miserably, I focused on my technique and struck the same target three times, each time with more force. If I’d been hunting for the first time, I would have probably made a kill with at least one of those throws. It’s no wonder I didn’t last as a vegetarian–I’m a natural born hunter! 😀

My tour of Beringia filled me with such awe and wonder. Until yesterday afternoon, the Yukon was the Klondike. Anytime that happened before was of no interest. It was like discovering that an old friend has been hiding a wonderful secret from me.

The centre isn’t very big; there are a couple of exhibits outside and in, but it’s an excellent way to spend an hour or two. You can get a combo pass for the Transportation Museum next door for $9. That’s right, $9 can get you at least two hours of entertainment in excellent museums in Whitehorse. That’s less than the cost of a movie ticket!

The transportation museum was very good; with interesting displays. My favourites were those devoted to the Chilkoot Trail and to the Helen Klaben plane crash. She and a pilot crashed in the frigid Yukon wilderness in the 1960s and though badly wounded, lived to tell the tale. She wrote a book about the ordeal called Hey, I’m Alive, which was made into a movie.

between the Alaska Highway and the parking lot, a family of mammoths plays (dad shown)

between the Alaska Highway and the parking lot, a family of mammoths plays (dad shown)

this giant beaver apparently existed once upon a time. He was as tall as I am--5'6"!

this giant beaver apparently existed once upon a time. He was as tall as I am–5’6″!

The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre

The Yukon Beringia Interpretive Centre

a mammoth skeleton

a mammoth skeleton

a giant sloth!

a giant sloth!

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this statue represents the journey from life to death

this statue represents the journey from life to death

(about the statue)

(about the statue)

explanation of why glaciers are blue

explanation of why glaciers are blue

explanation of 'Beringia'

explanation of ‘Beringia’

the displays at both Beringia and the Transporation Museum were excellent and very detailed

the displays at both Beringia and the Transporation Museum were excellent and very detailed

as I said, very detailed!

as I said, very detailed!

I had no idea that horses were RE-introduced to North America!

I had no idea that horses were RE-introduced to North America!

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the Yukon Horse

the Yukon Horse

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Legends of Beringia

Legends of Beringia

close up of the statue

close up of the statue

touching a real mammoth fossil!

touching a real mammoth fossil!

"please touch" is one of my favourite phrases

“please touch” is one of my favourite phrases

these are darts or spears

these are darts or spears

an atlatl

an atlatl

the dart rests against this rock and then you hold the two almost like chop sticks

the dart rests against this rock and then you hold the two almost like chop sticks

plaque about the plane flying outside the Transporation Museum

plaque about the plane flying outside the Transporation Museum

explanation of the pivoting mount...

explanation of the pivoting mount…

this plane always points into the wind

this plane always points into the wind

mural showing the different themes of the Yukon--native history, gold minining, the building of the Alaska Highway

mural showing the different themes of the Yukon–native history, gold minining, the building of the Alaska Highway

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kind of fuzzy, but this plaque says that it was on the site of the present day transportation museum that the US Army gave the Alaska Highway to Canada

kind of fuzzy, but this plaque says that it was on the site of the present day transportation museum that the US Army gave the Alaska Highway to Canada

what an incredible mural of the Golden Staircase!

what an incredible mural of the Golden Staircase!

the first public buses to travel the Alaska Highway started around 1948 and looked like this

the first public buses to travel the Alaska Highway started around 1948 and looked like this

the bus operators tried to make the miserable trip seem dreamy

the bus operators tried to make the miserable trip seem dreamy

inside of an old ambulance

inside of an old ambulance

I only noticed the old ambulance because it's orange :)

I only noticed the old ambulance because it’s orange 🙂

LIFE magazine article about the Klaben/Flores plane crash

LIFE magazine article about the Klaben/Flores plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

article about the plane crash

Kluane Country

Kluane National Park is one of those regions that, like Kananaskis Country in Alberta, has inflamed my imagination for years. While I would love to explore the region in depth and camp there, just a brief day trip into those fabled peaks was enough to satisfy the itch.

After the car repairs, I headed west on the Alaska Highway and, for the first time, pushed past the turnoff to the North Klondike Highway. The landscape became arid, with soft round peaks rippling through, grey and weathered, reminding me of elephant skin. The road imitated the mountains, with one frost heave after another threatening my suspension. I would not have enjoyed this ride with Miranda!

And then, just like that, they were before me, the Kluane Ice Ranges, just as I had always envisioned them. Pointy, slate grey, and snow covered. Beautiful.

I only went as far as Haines Junction, heart of Kluane Country, and turned back. And it was enough for this current incarnation of my traveling life. I would love to come back that way again, in another version of this life where I have more time to explore the territory, but it was enough.

pushing west on the Alaska highway

pushing west on the Alaska highway

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Takhini Valley

Takhini Valley

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Takhini Valley

Takhini Valley

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first glimpse of the Ice Ranges!

first glimpse of the Ice Ranges!

info about Kennedy and Hubbard peaks

info about Kennedy and Hubbard peaks

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You can clearly see the Hubbard peak in this photo, but the Kennedy peak is very faint. They are the white bit between the darker mountains.

You can clearly see the Hubbard peak in this photo, but the Kennedy peak is very faint. They are the white bit between the darker mountains.

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entering Haines Junction

entering Haines Junction

downtown Haines Junction set against the Ice Fields

downtown Haines Junction set against the Ice Fields

Haines Junction, by the way, is tiny, little more than a swell on the highway, and should not be confused with Haines, Alaska. Alaska Highway travelers headed for Fairbanks should note that they should turn right at Haines Junction for Fairbanks rather than going straight to Haines. I think that someone was trying to confuse the tourists. 😀