Whaler’s On the Point Guesthouse

Since I had no intention of driving Miranda to Tofino, I needed to find a place to stay. Research on my own revealed a serious lack of affordable options, so I turned to Trip Advisor. There, several people told me to check out Whaler’s On the Point Guesthouse, a hostel that is part of the Hosteling International system. The rates of $32 per night for non-members made the thought of sleeping in a dorm with strangers again quite palatable. But then I discovered that they have an amazing deal until February 11th: stay three nights (paid in advance) for just $60, taxes included! Staying three nights is feasible since I have four day weekends. Perfect!

When I found out about the deal, I emailed with the dates that I had off to ask if there was still space for those periods of time. My email was never answered. I called this morning before taking off and the guy pretty much brushed me off, telling me to ‘just show up’ and not even telling me that the office is closed from 2 to 4pm (thankfully I’d seen that on the website). So, I didn’t expect a warm welcome here, until I met the gal from Germany who checked me in. She was super helpful and patiently answered all my questions.

I haven’t hosteled since, oh, Chicago in 1999 I believe, and have only limited hosteling experience in Canada. So, don’t believe me, just believe the reviews, when I say that this is probably the nicest youth hostel in this country. It’s built like a mountain lodge, with lots of wood and stone. There is a lounge with a fantastic view of Clayoquot Sound and a huge, clean kitchen filled with everything you could need to cook. Some hostel kitchens in my experience are best avoided, but this one was a joy to cook in. I had packed a cooler this morning with vegetables and pasta sauce that would have spoiled by Thursday, so I made a big pot of that for dinner and will have left overs for two more meals.

There are quite a few people here, and my four-room dorm is full, but it’s definitely more relaxed than I imagine it would be in the summer time. Travel in the off season has its advantages.

The Pacific Rim Highway

Today, I drove the Pacific Rim Highway, which starts just north of Nanaimo, all the way to its end in Tofino, where I’ll be for the next three days. More on that later. 🙂

By RV, the PRH would suck. It is a narrow, winding road with one steep downhill after another. In a subcompact with a manual transmission, however, it was like being on a rollercoaster. Wheeeeeee! 😀

While the distance between Campbell River and Tofino is small, just a couple hundred kilometres, the time is great. It took me over five hours since I made a few stops and often could drive no more than thirty or forty klicks an hour.

Donna suggested I visit Little Qualicum Falls, so that’s where I pulled over first and did a little bit of hiking. I didn’t dare stay long since parking for an hour was a dollar and the only coins I had on me totaled seventy cents.

My mother suggested my next stop, Cathedral Grove. This is the site of one of the last old growth Douglas Fir forests on the west coast. Some of these trees are more than 300 years old. Some are at least 800 years old.

This place had an ethereal quality. I stood there, craning to see the tops of this handful of trees that has survived logging, disease, storms, and fire and I wept. It was a profound experience. I challenge anyone to stop at Cathedral Grove and not be moved.

Next, I discovered Sproat Lake. It was so clear that, well, it brought to mind a quote from Forrest Gump:

… that mountain lake. It was so clear, it looked like there were two skies one on top of the other.

I pulled into Tofino around 2:30, but could not check into my accomodation until 4, so I parked and walked around a bit, covering the entire, tiny, community. It’s the off season, so very little was open. I dabbled with the idea of having a dinner out instead of cooking, but the only options within walking distance would have cost over $50, more than my budget could cover, especially when I know I could get an equivalent meal in Campbell River for half of that.

You’ll need to come back for the next post to find out where I’m staying. 🙂

stairs to the lower falls

stairs to the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

footbridge over the lower falls

path near the lower falls

path near the lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

footbridge seen from further up the falls

lower falls

lower falls

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

lower falls (I like that pool of standing water)

picnic shelter

picnic shelter

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tundra-like vegetation

tundra-like vegetation

looking up towards the upper falls

looking up towards the upper falls

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a national tragedy...

a national tragedy…

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western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

western red cedar is in no way related to eastern white cedar

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There was no Devil's Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

There was no Devil’s Club out today, but I saw plenty of it on the Alaska side of the Chilkoot trail

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'the big tree' more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

‘the big tree’ more than six feet wide and taller than the tower of Pisa!

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a nurse log

a nurse log

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(unfortunate name for a disease)

(unfortunate name for a disease)

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I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

I like how they just took a chunk out of the tree instead of removing it entirely.

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Cameron Lake

Cameron Lake

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idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

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idiots in the 70's set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

idiots in the 70’s set fire to this magnificent, centuries old, tree

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this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

this stunning lake teased me for several kilometres until I could find a place to pull over and take a few shots of it!

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Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

church on Main Street

church on Main Street

Clayoquot Sound

Clayoquot Sound

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad's name was Gary and he loved 'Canadian & Chinese Food' restaurants.

I laughed so hard at this restaurant sign. My dad’s name was Gary and he loved ‘Canadian & Chinese Food’ restaurants.

Somewhere on Vancouver Island…

Today, I’m having a case of déjà-vu.

When I went to Scotland in 1998, I did a crazy day trip to the Orkney Islands from Inverness. It involved a very long round-trip bus ride (six hours total, if I recall correctly) and two jaunts across a very choppy and grey North Sea. This trip resulted in two of my clearest memories from my month in Scotland. The one that’s relevant to this post was when we were going up the west side of one of the islands and the driver stopped to let us look out at the stormy conditions over the water. He said to us, in all seriousness, “To the left is the Atlantic Ocean. Next stop, Newfoundland, Canada!”

Tonight, I’m sitting on the west coast of Vancouver Island, staring out at a wild blue ocean crashing onto a rocky jetty and all I can think is that all that lies ahead of me is the Pacific Ocean. Next stop, Japan.

More to follow…

Banking on the Road

Banking in Canada is about as far ahead of the United States as communications are behind it. With our national bank system and the Interac network, banking for Canadian RVers is a cinch, even when out of the country.

While there are two types of financial institutions, banks and credit unions, I suggest you go with a bank. Credit unions are local, so the chances of your find a branch of your credit union in another province are slim.

For the bank, I recommend CIBC (Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce). It is the most major Canadian bank, so if a small town is going to have a bank, it will usually be a CIBC. This is especially the case in the Territories. While you can do most of your banking with CIBC online or on the phone, it’s nice to have access to a branch to deposit cheques instead of having to mail them in.

I’ve dealt with every major bank in Canada, and some local ones, too, and CIBC has always come out on top. I’ve been with them for more than half my life, except for a disastrous year when I tried someone else (I came crawling back to CIBC on my hands and knees). I will never again consider moving; I’m going to be a CIBC customer for life.

CIBC is the leader in online banking in Canada. They have had a top-notch secure system since the late 1990’s. You can do everything online except deposit cheques, including paying bills, moving money between CIBC accounts, requesting a credit product, ordering cheques, scheduling pre-authorized payments, tracking your investments, and more.

If you don’t have access to the internet or want to speak to a live person, just call 1-800-465-CIBC. Their telephone system is very intuitive and getting to a live person takes seconds, and this 24/7. If I have a question about my account and am not sure if it would require going to a branch in person, I can call and ask.

Now that banking in Canada is centralized, that is decisions are made the head office, not local, level, it is very rare that you will need to go to ‘your branch’, where your account was opened, to get things done. If something needs to be done through your branch (eg. modifying loan terms) you can go into any CIBC to fill out the paperwork and they will send it through internal mail. My accounts are with a CIBC in Gatineau, Quebec, and there is no reason for me to open up an account wherever I’m currently staying. Even if I’m disputing a charge on my account, I can walk into any CIBC and get it reversed. When I lost my bank card last fall, I just went to the branch in Banff to get a new one. This applies to other banks, too. My vehicle loans are with BMO (Bank of Montreal) and when I needed to make a change to my contracts, I just went to the branch in Whitehorse. They had a bit of difficulty in that Quebec does everything differently, but I’m a customer and they wouldn’t let me leave until the issue was resolved satisfactorily.

CIBC’s fees are a little higher, but still competitive, with that of the other major Canadian banks (TD, Scotia, RBC, BMO, etc.). I pay $12.95 per month for a chequing account with unlimited transactions. Transactions include online payments, debit payments, ATM withdrawals, and more. Since I use Interac for 95% of my purchases and do a lot of online banking, this fee makes sense to me. There are less expensive packages for those who have fewer monthly transactions.

When out of the country, you can use your ATM card to withdraw cash at competitive rates, mail cheques to your branch for deposit, and use the online and phone systems to keep track of everything.

Banking on the road for Canadians, if you choose the right financial institution, is easier than figuring out how to manage mail, access the internet, choose a cellular provider, or vote. Thank goodness for one less headache!

(for the record, no, this post was not sponsored by CIBC 😀 )

Honesty

Today, my boss and I had The conversation; that is the one about when I expect to quit and head back north. It came up as another conversation turned to Dawson City and travel in the north between 1969 and 1979.

I made the decision when I hit the road to be upfront with potential employers about my intent to be only a temporary worker. A lot of people told me that would hurt my chances of finding work and that it was no one’s business that I had no intention of staying for more than a few months.

Being honest with my employers has been the best choice. Sure, some jobs like the nursery and the communications contract were sold as temporary positions, but my current position wasn’t. If I had pretended that I was looking for a long term job, I would have had to watch every word I say and always be on my guard. Instead, I’ve been able to have interesting conversations with my boss and colleagues about my lifestyle, where I’ve been, and where I plan to go. My temporary status didn’t even impede me from getting a raise this month!

Sure, I’ve probably lost out on dozens of jobs by being forthright, but living openly is truly the way to go. Moreover, I’ve had people admit to me that they Googled me before inviting me for an interview, so lying really wouldn’t be possible for me now anyway.

As for the answer to his question, I have three full months left in Campbell River and am still on target to leave May 1stish.