Familiarity

After work today, I needed to go to town to get something desserty for a potluck tonight as well as do a decent shop since I hadn’t done so yet this month. I decided to go check out the Soriana on Insurgentes.

I had no sooner bought my lancha ticket that it blew away in a strong gust of wind! The captain called to me to not worry about it and to just get on board. Upon disembarkation he told me to tell the ticket guy that the ticket blew away. He used a new verb that I didn’t know, so I just said to the ticket guy, “He perdido mi boleto en el viento” (I lost my ticket in the wind). He waved me away saying, “My God, I know you, go on!” That’s one lovely thing about living somewhere for any length of time, people start to know you.

But there’s another point to my telling this story. I said “he perdido.” I had dinner at Miguel’s last night and said the same thing about my old pendant to Angela when she commented on my new octopus pendant. She commented on the fact that I had a “new” verb tense and used it correctly. And today, I had a very long and involved discussion with my landlady and she also commented on my using this verb form, although I can’t remember what I said. Think about it, two people I speak with a lot both noticed in the span of less than 24 hours that I’d had a linguistic breakthrough. Fascinating!

Verbs in English are conjugated very differently than they are in Spanish. But Spanish and French verbs are conjugated similarly. So when I’m writing in Spanish, the best way for me to get verb practice, I always think about how I would say it in French and look for the equivalent verb tense in Spanish.

This new verb tense I’ve started using is called the “passé composé” in French and is in French the most common tense to use when speaking about things you did in the past. There is a more formal way called the “passé simple” that is very commonly used in Spanish and my teachers encouraged me to use that tense rather than the “passé composé.” Instead of saying “he perdido” I could have said “perdí.” Because it was drilled into me to favour the simple form, I completely forgot about the composed form that is much easier to remember. All this time I thought I didn’t have a past tense, it was actually locked away tightly in my brain! Perhaps now that I’m not having to search for so many words, my brain is able to focus on conjugations. Whatever is going on with my grey matter, I am really pleased!

From the embarcadero, I headed off to Juan Carrasco to get a bus. There was one marked “Ley del mar” waiting at a red light that I knew would take me to a block of Soriana. Perfect! So much more convenient than going to the Soriana on Rafael Buelna. Too bad it took me so long to figure that out! 🙁

The ride was long, hot, bumpy, unpleasant, and cramped. The seats on the “local” bus are so close together that I cannot sit normally in them as my femurs are longer than the space to the back of the seat in front of me. If I have a row to myself, I have to sit at a diagonal. If someone sits next to me. I have to half stand. Not the most fun way to ride across town.

We finally made it to the corner of Insurgentes and a game of Frogger later, I was in the mall. This is one of the larger Sorianas that has a food court outside (Mexican, sushi, pizza, Chinese), so I grabbed a slice of pizza before doing my shopping. As I started to wander the aisles of this Soriana, I once again regretted how much time I’ve wasted at the much smaller one on Rafael Buelna. There were so many more food products, on top of everything you could need for your home, similar to Mega, but with better prices. I did a really good shop and marveled as I piled meat, cheese, and even kale into my cart that I had $1,200 on me and wasn’t stressed about having enough money not only to pay for my groceries, but to take taxis home. Sure enough, my total was only about $800 (62CAD), and that included the $110 worth of pastries I bought for the potluck.

The lineup at checkout was interminable. The lady in front of me did a lot of justified sighing and eye rolling. I finally said to her, “I think we’re sleeping here tonight,” and she roared with laughter. The ice broken, we chatted a bit until it was finally her turn to get processed.

I was able to get a taxi right away when I came out, another improvement, and was quoted $60, but I was able to get the ride for $50. The driver did help me a lot with my mountain of bags, so I paid him the $60 and he was very grateful for that. He took me through the expected Juárez route that never fails to make me realise just how small my Mazatlán is. Most Gringos stick to the Golden Zone, Centro, and Isla de la Piedra (circled in red below), using taxis and buses to go between those areas. My Maz also includes, roughly, the area circled in blue, and I walk between it and the red zones in addition to taking public transportation. But even so, look how much more Maz there is beyond. I could have extended the blue circle a bit to the yellow line that is Mex-15, since I do shop along there the odd time I’m out with the truck. I’m always happy when I meet other Gringos who go beyond the red areas and know about the other grocery stores, the market in Juárez, and the local bus routes.

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The package guy at the embarcadero was available to help me get everything to the lancha and I was able to get everything up to the road on this side, where I got a taxi.

Upon arriving home, the driver noticed my truck and asked if it worked. I said yes, but it’s so much faster to go to Maz with public transportation (if I take a taxi both ways on the other side and walk both ways on this side, I can get groceries in an hour flat round trip provided I don’t have a long lancha wait. It would be at least an hour and a half to drive to a grocery store round trip, plus add in the time to shop!). He then asked if he could make me an offer on the truck! That is two people who have wanted to buy Moya this winter! It’s too bad that I can’t.

One of the two guys making an offer knows about the temporary import rules and told me, “Don’t worry. I will  give you a piece of the windshield with the hologram on it so you can report that your truck got totaled and you won’t be penalised for leaving it behind!” Yeah. I’m just not the kind of person who would take that sort of risk. I really don’t want to jeopardise my ability to return to Mexico with a vehicle.

But it tells me that if I bring my truck to Mérida, my favoured plan at this point, I won’t have any trouble selling it, even if just for parts or scrap. As it turns out, the nearby state of Quintana Roo is entirely a “free zone,” so I would be able to turn in my TIP and then legally dispose of my truck near the Belize border. So that opens my options considerably.

This was a really good shopping run, very smooth and efficient time-wise except for the long wait at the checkout. I look forward to starting over with this sort of education when I get to Mérida next year. 🙂

A Fool’s Errand

It was not a good return to work this morning. My brand new headphones were malfunctioning (sound only coming out of one ear) and a key piece of software I use to transcribe was disabled. I could work with my earbuds, but not without the software. So I spent a bit of time finding a potential replacement before going to town. With the current CAD/MXN exchange rate being as good as it is, I wanted to make a large withdrawal. Since there is a Scotiabank right next to Office Depot, where I bought the headphones, it made sense to go all the way out to Rafael Buelna in the hopes of getting a refund or replacement on my headphones. My receipt said they will do refunds within 60 days as long as you have the original packing and receipt, so I figured I had at least a fighting chance.

I saw a rather unique lancha when I got to Maz. It had a bathroom!

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Since I didn’t have much time today to go clear across town and back, I had a first — taking a pulmonía both ways on my own! This was my best ride ever. The driver only charged me $60 and took me on a super convoluted traffic-avoiding route by the outskirts of Juárez and down Insurgentes. When we got to the corner of Insurgents and Carretera Internacional, the driver asked if I was lost. Nope, I told him, the other Scotiabank is about 3KM to our left. He was suitably impressed and asked why I didn’t go to that one. Then, we ended up chatting the rest of the drive to the bank (Insurgentes becoming Marina, and then we turned left on Rafael Buelna). The red in this is roughly the route we took to get to Marina (we did a lot more turns), and the grey and orange are the most direct route. It’s probably not that much more mileage, but it’s a whole other Maz.

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I was able to make the withdrawal I wanted to make by splitting it up into increments of $6,000. I then went in and had my $500 bills turned into $100s, $50s, and $20s, plus a bit of change. The counting machines make this job very easy and quick, but the lady still manually recounted everything, the first time I’ve had a teller do that.

Then, I went next door to Sole Mare to grab a bite to eat. I won’t be having lunch there again; the food is too much like the average fare you get at any chain restaurant up north. My “piña colada” iced tea was an interesting red colour, but tasted good. The sandwich was pretty lackluster though, just a very thin slice of processed turkey with lots of black olives (yes, I eat such things now and they’re the reason I picked that sandwich!), romaine, tomato, onion, avocado, and melted gouda on a bland bun. I asked for no mushrooms and the cook subbed chiles curtidos for them. Rather funny, but I’m always happy not to be treated like a Gringo when it comes to spicy stuff now. 🙂

Office Depot was hopping when I got there. They were having some sort of sale or promotion and it was a mad house. I always feel like I don’t speak a lick of Spanish when I go there because they make no effort at meeting me halfway speech speed-wise and today was no exception. It took ages for me to get to the head of the line of the customer service desk and then I was ignored for a bit until they were ready to deal with me. The clerk called the manager and she sneered at me and said that there is no refund on electronics past seven days! It’s not on the receipt, but it is on the wall behind the customer service desk. And then, she told me to leave/not make a fuss because they were busy. I found my Spanish again and told her that was fine and that I’ll never shop there again. That I’m leaving Maz next month for good is neither here nor there. I’d find another place to buy my office goods since I’ve always disliked shopping there.

Next stop was Soriana and they didn’t have much on my list. Between that and this being my third time in a row where I had a hard time finding a taxi upon exiting, I wouldn’t be shopping at that store anymore also. Knowing the buses the way I do now, I’d do the Insurgentes Soriana instead. At least when I did find a taxi, he only charged me $60. It’s normally $70 home from Soriana. I did well on my rides today! This driver took the more direct route that I would have taken last year when driving, Marina to Carretera Internacional becoming Ejército Mexicano becoming Juan Carrasco, then left on Gutiérrez-Najera, then the jog to the embarcadero. There was so much traffic and the drive took ages!

The lancha was packed like a sardine, with me being the last to board and grateful that I barely had anything and what I did have that was bulky was flexible (paper goods)! I didn’t need a taxi on this side.

When I got in, I promptly put the rent together and went to see if my landlady was home. She was a bit startled by the huge pile of bills I gave her and I explained that I have a hard time spending $500s, so I have them changed at the bank now. She was very grateful for that. I tend to give her a mix of bills most months, but usually pay in mostly $200s and $500s. So a stack of 55 $100s was rather impressive!

I came back home and decided to see if Sony could help me with my headphones issue. Sony Mexico claimed that my headphones were only supposed to be sold in Canada (!) and so they couldn’t help me. Sony Canada said that since I bought them in Mexico, they can’t help me. So I’m out about 30CAD and I have to start the process of finding a new set all over again. Croft gave me a tip for a Mexican brand that has a storefront on Zaragoza, so I’ll pop over there tomorrow or Thursday and see what they have. Office Depot and Sony both lost a customer today. And I learned that while Mexico may have many of the same stores as the Canada and the U.S., it obviously does not have the same consumer protections at those stores. I’m going to have to research this before I start making any expensive purchases in Mexico, including appliances.

Uneventful Trip to Mazatlán From Mérida

My flight was scheduled for 8:25 this morning, so I wanted to be at the airport by 6:15. I woke up without an alarm at just past 5:00 and it took me about 20 minutes to finalise my packing (almost had to sit on my suitcase for it to close, even though I didn’t have anything extra!). I didn’t bother with coffee since I could surely get some at the airport. Once packed, I made certain I got everything and that the apartment was tidy. There is a cleaning fee included in Airbnb bookings, so I don’t go overboard, but I make sure the trash is out, dishes are done, the bathroom counter is wiped off, the floor is swept, etc.

When I booked the apartment, I was disappointed that my Mérida home base was going to be such a bland space, based on the pictures. Funny how the walled courtyard, spiral staircase, and balcony made it into a very special home, and one I will miss! I intend to rent there for a full month when I return to Mérida for good to give me ample time to house hunt.

It was a quick and easy walk to Paseo de Montejo, even with my luggage. I really need a better second bag for flying than my tote so that I can hang it from my wheeled suitcase because the tote is very heavy to hang from the shoulder. Well, I do have such a bag, but a laptop doesn’t fit in it. My luggage suited the purpose for which it was bought originally, but now needs to be reconsidered. But I digress.

There was a taxi waiting at the Conquistador Hotel, just as my host had told me there would be. $180 to the airport, versus the $270 to get from there! This was expected, actually. There is a special contract to go from the airport, but not to. A tip is to actually walk out of the airport to a city street and grab a cab from there. I will do that if I land in daylight next time. I was at the airport in record time, just past 6:00 a.m., and no one was working the InterJet desk… I ended up waiting until almost 6:30 to check in. Well, better early than late!

I suspected, correctly might I add, that I would not be able to get a decent coffee after security, so I did that first. A decent coffee was a reasonable airport price of $40. But I was so shocked by the price of $55 for some coffee cake that I didn’t have the wherewithal to tell them to forget it! I thought Canadian airport prices were insane!

Security was a joke, I’m sorry to say. I didn’t speak to anyone other than to be told to go back through the metal detector after I made it beep the first time. No one even checked my paperwork.

The only thing open on the other side was a kiosk that tried to sell me 200mL of water for $38. I declined. Sometime later, another kiosk opened and I got 1L for $35. Still highway robbery, but I had water for the day (in fact, I just finished it). I think TelCel has upped their prices because I have been burning through pesos this week and I ran out of money on my account again while waiting for my flight. I didn’t trust the kiosk to not have a markup on adding TelCel time, so I didn’t buy any (I’ve only so far encountered one place with a commission, in Mérida, and it was $1, which wasn’t worth complaining about).

My wait in Mérida went by quickly and we boarded on time. The flight to Mexico City was uneventful and I think we even landed early. Beverage service was a cereal bar (yuck) and an apple juice (very yum — I haven’t had it in ages and forgot how much I love it!). Deplaning took forever, though. I had a window seat in the very last row with two people between me and the aisle, so I knew I wasn’t getting off that plane anytime soon even when the line got moving. I finally had to give in to my bladder and ask the other two ladies to move so I could use the on board washroom. They were very put upon and I heard someone across the aisle whisper to them to be kinder as I must have been desperate to put on such a show. Indeed! It’s amazing how much more easily one can deal with being stuck on the tarmac for an extra 10 minutes with an empty bladder. 😀

We finally deplaned and I headed straight for the food court area to get a coffee, pausing only at a TelCel kiosk to add $100 to my account. It was too early to get my gate info for the next leg of my trip anyway since I had a nearly 3.5-hour layover. Starbucks was the coffee place with the shortest lineup and a short was a reasonable (by airport standards) $29. I even interrupted the barista to ask for milk since there was none at the condiment bar and specified skim. I’m getting more comfortable with some uncomfortable aspects of Mexican culture, like elbowing your way to what you want!

I did a bit of work while enjoying my coffee, but it was awkward without a mouse, so I gave up and went off to hunt for some lunch. Food prices were outrageous, of course, so I decided against a sit down meal and instead had a slice of pizza. Still pricy, but the slices were large. It and a tiny bag of Frito-type things with the plane beverage service got me through the next eight hours, so it was actually pretty good value. I declined the ketchup I was offered to go with it, but accepted the Valentina “hot” sauce to dip my crusts into!

Lunch done, I plonked myself down and watch an episode of Defiance on my iPad (how did I ever travel pre-iPad — so much entertainment in the profile and weight of a thick magazine or slim paperback!). By the time that was done, it was past 1:00 and we were supposed to board around 1:30, so I went off in search of gate info. My flight was marked as on time, but with no gate number, same as my delayed flight to Mérida had been, so I had a bad feeling. I went to the info kiosk to ask and was told gate two and that the flight was on time. Yay!

The flight was almost empty, so it boarded and took off very quickly. I’m not a nervous flier, but the airplane shook and rattled so much as we took off that it actually made me nervous. The flight was a bit bumpy and the landing rather rattly. Some folks actually clapped when we came to a stop in Maz! Too funny since I have been on rougher flights than this one. It was nice to have the aisle to myself. I can’t believe it costs me twice as much to fly across Canada in a sardine can as it costs to fly across Mexico with elbow and knee room!

It’s quite a distance from the terminal to the exit at the Maz airport, so I got a workout, avoiding everyone offering me hotel transport. I went to the taxi desk (similar setup to Mérida where you pay a set price) and forked over $550 to get home straight to Isla. The alternative was $380 to go to the embarcadero, $8 to get on the lancha, and $30 for a taxi on this side. When you consider that it’s about $400 to go to Centro from the airport, $550 to Isla really isn’t that terrible considering the odds of getting a passenger back is unlikely. This is a new service now that the road is mostly paved and what isn’t is well graded. I much preferred to spend that money and get home in 20 minutes or so than to save a few bucks and take over an hour to get home.

The driver asked me what hotel I’m at on the beach. I said that I’m not at a hotel, but my house is near the beach. His eyes went round and he gasped out, “I hope you know where you’re going because I won’t be able to find it!” I laughed and reassured him that I was going “home” and knew where we were headed!

Ah, loco Mazatlán drivers… We almost hit I don’t know how many obstacles between the airport and home, including what I think was a very sickly dog, a guy on a bicycle, a few topes, two coconuts, a bus, and a couple on a motorcycle. But soon, I could see Icebox Hill. Home, home at last!

I have directions pretty well down pat, left here, right there, a bit further, etc. so we made the few turns to my house without any issues. My driver was surprised by how big and nice my house is. I made sure he knew how to get back to the main road (it’s easier to go around a different way than get the car turned around and go back the way he came) and then headed in.

Phew, the house smelled musty! I immediately threw open the windows and turned the fans on high, then Febreezed the hell out of all the fabric! I then impressed myself by unpacking everything, but didn’t put on laundry since it wouldn’t have time to dry. I went out some time later to watch the sunset on the beach (which I missed more than I thought I would!) and was struck again by how noisy Isla is. I don’t know how many people have told me that “Mexico is noisy.” Horse hockey. Some parts of it are noisy, yes, but I’ve been to two cities now that aren’t and one that is so it seems that that generalisation is false.

My cupboards were barer than Mother Hubbard’s, so I went to Miguel’s for dinner. I’m pretty much “meated out” after all the rich greasy Yucatán food, so shrimp burritos were very appealing and hit the spot. I don’t see myself having any pork or beef for quite a bit! Miguel overheard me saying how light Yucatán cuisine is on produce and gave me extra salad and roasted onions, bless him. Angela was interested in how much shopping I did. Luis (their school-age server) was mostly interested in the contrasts been Maz and Mérida and why I’d rather be there than here on a more permanent basis.

Among my reasons, I gave language immersion and he said that my Spanish is “sufficient.” I argued that sufficient isn’t enough for me, I want fluency, and for that, I need to get away from ex-pats and really immerse myself. I think the only day last week where I actually spoke any amount of English was Tuesday on my ruins tour, as well as speaking French that evening. Like Durango, it was a very intensive immersion experience and I know I came out of it with more vocabulary and capacity for understanding oral Spanish.

I can get by on sufficient in Maz, but I’m not sure it will be enough for living in Mérida unless I stick to the expat zone, which goes against the point of why I want to live in Mexico in the first place. I am not delusional enough to think that my language skills are enough to actually thrive in a Spanish-speaking community yet. I haven’t had to deal with a real emergency, like a car or medical accident, nor have I had to negotiate and sign a legally-binding rental agreement, figure out vehicle licensing requirements, make an insurance claim, open utility accounts and dispute charges, etc. I still can’t enjoy a Spanish movie or TV show without Spanish subtitles and the radio is still pretty much bla bla bla. I’m lazy and I won’t make the effort to get past sufficient if my very survival doesn’t depend on it. Maz just isn’t big enough for me to get away from English.

So after talking about my scouting trip to Mérida for some time, it has come to an end. Now, the grunt work begins. And this is where I announce that I am more likely than not postponing my move to Mérida to next spring, maybe even the summer. I intend to go to Eastern Europe for the summer and what’s expensive is getting there, not being there. It makes no sense to pay all that money to go for just three months. I’m thinking of doing my allowed three months in Bulgaria, then perhaps three months in Greece (which I’m told is cheap…) after a few weeks in Turkey, and then flying back to North America from North Africa…

Moreover, my passport expires in March of 2017 and most places require your passport to be valid at least six months beyond the end of your trip. This means that I would have to be back to Canada by the middle of September. So it makes sense to get home and deal with my passport renewal before I do anything else. Then, I can take time to really think through what I need to do to get myself set for Mérida (like consult that tax accountant I still haven’t found), including whether or not I should be selling Haven, before jetting off to Europe.

Coming back to Canada next spring would mean I’d be packing up and closing Haven in warmer weather, even if it means landing in Mérida at the peak of the hot season. I just don’t see myself packing up Haven in November or even as late as December, as I had planned to do. Haven just isn’t set up for winter living, and I don’t think I want it to be!

The move to Mérida is a huge deal and not something I’m willing to do on a whim. I want to do this right and will take the time it takes. Knowing where I’m going and that I have a good home base waiting for me when I’m ready for it takes off a lot of pressure. Mérida is concrete to me now and therefore one less thing I need to think about. Onward!

City Tour of Mérida and Barrio Itzimná

First on the agenda today was a two-hour city tour of Mérida with Carnavalito City Tours. The cost is $120 per person, plus a tip. The office is on Calle 55 between Calles 60 and 62, right in front of Santa Lucia square. Look for a sign that says Gua Gua (“Wah wah”). I left home around 9:15 and got there at 9:40ish, with departure being at 10:00.

I knew that the buses are open air trolleys, so I didn’t expect to hear much of the tour, and I was right. Our guide gave the tour in both excellent English and Spanish, but we could barely hear him. Between both languages, I think I caught about 25% of what was said. But don’t let that deter you from taking this tour. It takes you through the parts of Mérida around Centro that are of the most interest to tourists and will give you an idea of what to go back to and explore further later. This is my last day in Mérida (!) and I was quite pleased that only one thing on the tour stood out as a must go back to…

We saw a lot of beautiful old buildings. This is a building with Montejo in the name. It’s right off of Plaza Grande and is a museum.

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This is a ceiba tree, which was sacred to the Mayans. It is about 150 years old. In Maz, my landmark for routing is the Pemex La Ceiba near the embarcadero. Now, I know what that means!

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And then we came to Barrio Itzimná… I found that I really narrowed down this week where I don’t want to live, but I haven’t really nailed down a place where I could see myself living. I really wanted to be in one of the older barrios that is anchored by a square and a self-contained village, much like Juárez in Maz, but the ones nearest to the Plaza Grande are Gringoified. Itzimná is just a bit up from where I’m currently living and I knew I had to go back after the tour because I was pretty sure I could imagine myself living there!

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It’s definitely much higher up than I thought I wanted to live, but when that appears to be the only con…

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The church made me laugh. Can you see the face?

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A culinary institute.

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Hardware store. Love the logo.

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There were some really lovely houses in this neighbourhood.

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This one looks like a castle and is going to be converted to a hotel.

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These old gems are so inexpensive to buy, but I have to wonder how much it would cost to repair them…

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We continued on, had a break at a mall near the Hyatt hotel, and passed a Saturday farmer’s market. I wish I’d made a note of the corner where the market is!

This park has a cenote.

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Another gem for sale.

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If I understood the guide correctly, this is the entrance to a zoo.

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The bus depot is right downtown.

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I liked the colour of this church.

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The only place in the world where you can learn the Mayan language. My guide at Mayan Heritage says classes have been fully booked for ages and the soonest he can get in is August.

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This church altar is done in gold leaf.

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The tour office is just a block from Pita, the Mediterranean restaurant I spotted the other day. Same street! I call that destiny. 🙂 I sat in their sunny courtyard and ordered the falafel pita. As a free starter, I got pita with an herbed butter, a pesto-type thing, and a very spicy red thing. All were tasty.

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The falafel was adequate! I would sub the coleslaw for hummus next time, though, since I can’t do the mayo. Their menu says the falafel are made with garbanzos, but their bright green colour betray that they are made with fava beans in the Egyptian style. The salad was wonderful, with some of the best tomatoes I’ve ever had in Mexico. I paired my meal with an ice cold and super sour limonada mineral, probably the best limonada I have ever had.

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The bill came in a cute little watering can.

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So reasonable! I know I will eat here a lot when I move to Mérida! I wish I’d had time to go try out the Thai place because having both Pad Thai and falafel would clinch the deal on Mérida being perfect for me. 🙂

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I headed home for a bit of a rest, then went out to explore Itzimná (home was right on the way, so why not?). I have actually been to the periphery of it, but did not get to its square. I can’t believe all of this was only about 1KM from my place, closer than Plaza Grande!

Here’s that hardware store again:

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So pretty!

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Coffee shop? Check.

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Traffic around the square was very busy!

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Here’s the church again. The ropes make it look like it’s crying.

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Ice cream parlour next to a bakery, nice!

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House for sale.

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This no parking sign is awesome. It says, “Palm leaves fall and dent cars.”

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A gorgeous fixer-upper.

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I passed what I call the “duck house” on the tour and was happy to find it again!

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Found my Mérida home! Just needs a little elbow grease. 😉

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Or maybe this one?

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Coming back out onto the Paseo de Montejo, I spotted a Mega. I’ve passed this intersection a few times but didn’t see it from those vantage points. That would have been useful last Saturday!

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Like in Maz, there are a lot of VW Beetles in Mérida. This one had no hood! I have to say that I think I would like to find myself one of these when I move here, just until I can afford what I really want. 🙂

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So ends my week in Mérida. I can’t believe how quickly it passed! I feel that I accomplished my goal and that I’ll be able to hit the ground running when I move here. I can also start to look at real estate online to get ideas of prices in the areas that interest me.

Mérida is such a sharp contrast to Mazatlán.

The most appealing part of it is that both the city and the state are safe. Sinaloa is in the midst of a drug war right now and there have been a lot of murders lately, with some in Maz and in the tourist village of El Quelite that I had wanted to visit. There’s none of that here in the Yucatán. I’ve even been told that I could safely drive from Mérida to Uxmal after dark to see the light show, no problem. Wow! I feel like my world in Mazatlán is very small and that I would get claustrophobic very quickly if I chose it as my forever home because I wouldn’t feel safe enough to go exploring in the environs.

Mérida is also more approachable because, like Durango, it has good signage and a strong tourism industry that understands the importance of strategically placed information kiosks, maps, signage, etc.. It took me no time at all to get orientated while it took months for me to be comfortable in Maz, and I still get disorientated. I love that you get actual addresses here, as well as the nearest intersection(s).

Drivers here are more like what you see in most of Canada and the U.S., obeying traffic signals, respecting pedestrians, and not driving like maniacs. I felt safer walking here than I do in Mazatlán.

I’ve always found Mazatlán to be fairly grotty and run down, but I imagine it will appear even worse now that I’ve spent time in a second city that is so well maintained and clean.

I didn’t spend much time on the buses here, but my experiences were less positive than in Maz. I found buses hard to flag down, with locals confirming that it’s not because I’m doing it wrong. Some said that they sometimes need to flag down four or five buses before one will stop!

I also didn’t get much experience with taxis, but I know that I will miss the Mazatlán pulmonías very, very, very much.

I thought that being near the ocean wasn’t important to me, but the realisation that I will not get to have a beer while looking at the ocean hit me hard this week, to my surprise. I don’t think I’ve ever really said how much of a treat it is for me to grab a beer on the Malecón. It is one of my Maz things that I will miss the most and which will be one of my favourite memories. I will also miss horseback riding on the beach!

Yucatán cuisine hasn’t wowed me. This isn’t an agricultural state and so the cuisine is very heavily meat-based. I’m pretty sure my salad today was the only real portion of good veggies I had all week! It’s no wonder I’ve been run down! Sinaloa is an agricultural state and produce is part of the local diet. I loved the meat I had here, but, really, the portions were too enormous and not balanced.

I’ll have spent a wonderful year of my life in Mazatlán and I am grateful for being the welcoming first port it was, but I’m ready for something different. I don’t care how much the locals (and not-so-locals) have warned me about the Mérida heat. Bring it on!

I’m still feeling a little rundown, so I doubt I’ll be going out again today, especially since I have to be out the door at 5:30 tomorrow morning to catch my 8:30 flight! My plan was to walk down 35 to the hotel at the corner of Paseo de Montejo, where there is a taxi stand. But, first, I emailed my host here to ask if he could request me a cab. He said that there is little point in calling as they would say that they’ll be there, but then forget to show up. He said that the taxi stand at the hotel is, in fact, my best bet to quickly get a taxi, even that early. Thankfully, I don’t have much luggage!

Glancing around the apartment, I realise that I’d better start packing! I really made myself at home here. 🙂

A Down Day in Mérida

I didn’t sleep well last night and didn’t feel well at all upon getting up. Too much booze and rich food! That’ll teach me to go on vacation! I stayed in until the early afternoon, working on my project. I was supposed to have three days like these this week so I didn’t mind at all and was rather glad that I had something productive to do.

Around 2:00, I headed out with one express goal and one vague goal. The express goal was to visit the shop Uxmal de Taxco of Miguel who just might be the best silversmith in Mexico, or at least in Mérida. I was hoping to find a replacement pendant and was delighted that the shop was so near my apartment. I really love how the streets in Mérida are numbered as it makes it really easy to get around and to know how you’re situated in relation to an address!

I passed an Ontario-plated car on the way.

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The shop is in the Barrio de Santa Ana, and this is the Santa Ana church in the square anchoring this neighbourhood.

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And here’s the shop across from the square.

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I don’t “know” jewelry, but I could recognise that the treasures in the shop were special. Miguel spent some time with me as I stumbled along and tried to explain what I was looking for. We came close, with him offering to convert a brooch into a pendant for me, and I almost went for it until I came to my senses and realised that I was looking for something for daily wear and would be gutted to lose something with that sort of monetary value (400CAD). But I did buy the exquisite handmade brooch and will keep in mind the option of having it converted at a later date. I really don’t buy a lot of jewelry, but I had actually been looking for something like this to secure one of my cardigans, as well as my scarves. So while it was more than I expected to spend on such an item, it wasn’t an impulse buy at all.

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I then headed down to the Plaza Grande (main square) not to be confused with the Gran Plaza (shopping mall) to ask a question at the tourist info kiosk. I thought a good way to spend my last day in Mérida would be to take a guided bus tour of the city. I was sent back up to Calle 55 between 60 and 62 to a tour operator that does 1h45 minute bilingual tours of the most popular sites in Mérida. I thought of taking the 4PM one, but still didn’t feel well and just wanted to get home. So I booked for 10AM tomorrow.

One day left in Mérida. Where did the week go?!