The Jack London Cabin

Dick North, a Yukon historian now based in Whitehorse, can be credited for finding the facts about novelist Jack London’s year in the Klondike. There has been so much myth and conjecture, but he found irrefutable pieces of evidence that form a picture of the year that served as a catalyst for London’s writing career.

Jack London was born into desperate poverty in Oakland, California. He laboured part-time as a child until he left school at 14 to work sixteen to eighteen hour days, seven days a week, at a pickle factory. When he’d had enough of that, he became an able bodied seaman and traveled to the most far flung corners of the world.

When news came to the outside world in 1897 that there was gold in the Klondike, London was ripe for adventure. He headed north with his brother-in-law, their outfit financed by London’s step-sister. London came over the Chilkoot Trail in August 1897, a year ahead of the column of people who would eventually make it to the gold fields.

Dick North found, while searching through archives, a photo of a group at Sheep Camp and by identifying each person in the photo he was able to identify Jack London. This photo is the only known photo of London not only on the Chilkoot, but in the north.

London made it to the Klondike and staked a claim at Henderson Creek, this fact supported by a document found by north: Jack London’s claim registration, dated October 1897 and signed in Dawson City!

While London was only in the north for a year, forced out by scurvy, it proved to be a transformative experience for him and inspired him to write many novels, the most famous of which is Call of the Wild. He sold the rights to this book to MacMillan publishing for a few thousand dollars. This book has not been out of print since and contributed to making MacMillan the powerhouse publisher that it is today.

As if the Sheep Camp photo and claim registration documents weren’t enough, Dick North found his holy grail: one of the cabins Jack London stayed in during his long, dark Klondike winter. This cabin was identified in two ways. The first is that it is described in perfect detail in one of London’s books. The second is a piece of graffiti: London’s signature in pencil scrawled on the inside of a wall.

The cabin was falling to ruin and at risk of getting lost in the wilderness. Funds to rescue it were hard to find, but when the city of Oakland got wind of North’s discovery it offered to finance the rescue on the condition that the cabin be brought to Oakland for display in their Jack London Square.

North decided that this wouldn’t do and he had a crazy, but rather brilliant, idea: split the cabin in two. There are now two Jack London cabins to be seen, one in Dawson, Yukon, and one in Oakland, California. The Dawson cabin’s bottom half is original while the top is a reproduction. The reverse is true for the one in Oakland!

Next to the cabin in Dawson is a bear proof food cache and a newer building that houses pictures and documents related to London’s life.

This excellent exhibit and talk from the Klondike Valley Association come with a $5 admission fee, but it’s only $2.50 upon presentation of an entrance coupon from Diamond Tooth Gerties.

Before I share pictures, here is a quote from Jack London that echoes something I said last summer about my own Klondike experience:

It was in the Klondike I found myself. There nobody talks. Everybody thinks. You get your true perspective. I got mine.

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the building on stilts is a bear-proof food cache

the building on stilts is a bear-proof food cache

London's eldest daughter; looks just like him!

London’s eldest daughter; looks just like him!

London's notebook

London’s notebook

London at Sheep Camp on the Chilkoot Trail, and him dressed as a tramp for some research he was doing for a novel

London at Sheep Camp on the Chilkoot Trail, and him dressed as a tramp for some research he was doing for a novel

map of the routes to the gold fields

map of the routes to the gold fields

London and his youngest daughter, circa 1904. He looks like a Kennedy!

London and his youngest daughter, circa 1904. He looks like a Kennedy!

London wrote an average of 1,000 words a day for more than seventeen years

London wrote an average of 1,000 words a day for more than seventeen years

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

document proving that London staked a gold claim in the Klondike

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Dawson City Walking Tour With Costumed Interpreter

I had a full day this overcast and cool Friday, and covered four attractions, posts for which will follow over the next few days. I’ll start off with the Dawson City walking tour led by a Parks Canada costumed interpreter.

This 90 minute tour covers only a tiny portion of downtown Dawson, pretty much just two blocks square, and doesn’t touch on three quarters of the subjects I would have expected it to cover. It is a great tour that, to my immense delight, took us into buildings I thought were just façades.

The tour starts at the Palace Grand Theatre, but doesn’t go into any details about it.

The Palace Grand today is where you can buy tickets for the Parks Canada attractions as well as a ‘Pick-a-Pack’, which gives you access to three attractions for the price of two. There will be a big shingding there tomorrow, with ladies in gowns and men in tuxes, an annual event known as the Commissioner’s Ball.

Our first stop was Lowe’s Mortuary where we learned about the different ways folks made their fortune in Dawson, from placer mining to saloon keeping to prostitution. One fact that I learned was that before the cold came, an estimate was made of how many people might die over the winter and that many graves were dug before the ground froze!

this furniture maker diversified to include a line of caskets

Next stop was the Bank of British North America.

This was the first bank to operate in Dawson, starting business in a tent in 1897. Today, the only bank in Dawson is a CIBC, across the street on 2nd avenue. As a bonus, you can see in the background the original CIBC bank where Robert Service worked.

Going into this building was neat since I walk by it so many times in an average week.

inside the Bank of British North America

The next stop was Ruby’s Place, the site of the last brothel in Dawson, which shut down in the 1960’s!

Behind the brothel is a row of little cabins:

these ‘cribs’ are from the Gold Rush era and were the ‘offices’ of ladies of the night

Imagine an alley lined with these things, all holding a girl plying the oldest trade in history.

Rather than outlaw prostitution, the Northwest Mounted Police regulated the profession, requiring the women to have monthly checkup. They would have to present their ‘clean bill of health certificate’ upon request and they would be fined or even expelled from town if they did not have it.

The next stop was my favourite simply because I’ve always thought that this was a building with a great front and that it’s a shame that there’s nothing inside. Joke was on me!

inside the Red Feather Saloon

This building housed several saloons. The Red Feather Saloon was the last one and the name on the building when it was taken over by Parks Canada. However, the inside was modeled on an earlier saloon, the Hub, simply because it’s the only one for which a picture of the inside remains. Note that gambling was outlawed in Dawson in the early 1900’s, so the only games played in the Red Feather Saloon were of the pleasure variety, such as cribbage.

The final stop on the walking tour was the original 1898 post office.

exterior of the original 1898 post office

inside the original 1898 post office

The arrival of a post office and bank in Dawson confirmed its identity as a proper town that would not simply fade into history the way so many other gold rush towns, such as Dyea, did. There was a time when Dawson was a major city of 30,000 souls, one that got electricity and telephone service well ahead of what are now major North American cities. Today, it is a shadow of its former self, but it is still a thriving community and one that is not likely to fade quietly into non-existence.

The tour over, I headed across the street to the current post office, down to Front Street to the Riverwest Café for a sandwich to eat later, and then I hoofed it up to Writer’s Row, 8th Avenue, to learn all about two of the three famous authors associated with Dawson, and see the home of the third. To be continued… 🙂

Check out the gallery for more pictures from the walking tour:

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inside of the Palace Grand

inside of the Palace Grand

ball gown displayed in the Palace Grand

ball gown displayed in the Palace Grand

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this couple seems so in love; it's rare to see a 'period' picture with people looking so, well, human!

this couple seems so in love; it’s rare to see a ‘period’ picture with people looking so, well, human!

looking out at 2nd Avenue

looking out at 2nd Avenue

close up of some of the colourful buildings on 2nd Avenue

close up of some of the colourful buildings on 2nd Avenue

Home Hardware

Home Hardware

our interpreter, Colleen, is also a dancer at Gerties!

our interpreter, Colleen, is also a dancer at Gerties!

closeup of a crib (original 1898 building, moved to its current location)

closeup of a crib (original 1898 building, moved to its current location)

pleasure games table in the Red Feather Saloon

pleasure games table in the Red Feather Saloon

inside the Red Feather Saloon

inside the Red Feather Saloon

the current decore of the Red Feather Saloon was based on this photo of the interior of the Hub Saloon, housed in the same building.

the current decore of the Red Feather Saloon was based on this photo of the interior of the Hub Saloon, housed in the same building.

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inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

inside of the original 1898 post office

outside of the original 1898 post office

outside of the original 1898 post office

original 1898 post office

original 1898 post office

Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse

Forts and Lighthouses are high on my interest list, so these two unconnected sites, Fort Rodd Hill and Fisgard Lighthouse at the same location were a perfect combination for me. We were able to stop here after going to French Beach since it was literally on the way home from there.

From the websites:

Fort Rodd Hill – a National Historic Site – is a coast artillery fort built in the late 1890s to defend Victoria and the Esquimalt Naval Base. The Fort includes three gun batteries, underground magazines, command posts, guardhouses, barracks and searchlight emplacements.

and

The first lighthouse on Canada’s west coast is still in operation! There hasn’t been a keeper here since the light was automated in 1929, but every year many thousands of visitors step inside a real 19th century light, and capture some of the feeling of ships wrecked and lives saved.

Built by the British in 1860, when Vancouver Island was not yet part of Canada, Fisgard’s red brick house and white tower has stood faithfully at the entrance to Esquimalt harbour. Once a beacon for the British Royal Navy’s Pacific Squadron, today Fisgard still marks home base for the Royal Canadian Navy.

The fort has two batteries and several outbuildings to explore, and Parks Canada was generous with accessibility to all the nooks and crannies. One building had me climbing a metal staircase to a widow’s walk to another staircase that descends to a room where there is a small exhibit. It was quite fun to get there and I was pretty impressed that I got up and down that staircase.

The lighthouse is one of the prettiest I have ever seen. They are working on making the inside a museum. There are a few exhibits and they are promising. I especially liked the stacks of ‘crates’ that had doors and drawers you can open to see what’s inside.

a beautiful map of the site

a beautiful map of the site

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married officer quarters

married officer quarters

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these crates have doors and drawers that open to reveal exhibits

these crates have doors and drawers that open to reveal exhibits

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a good view of the causeway built in the 1950's

a good view of the causeway built in the 1950’s

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I was about five feet from these geese

I was about five feet from these geese

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this 'man' startled me and I let out a very embarassing shriek!

this ‘man’ startled me and I let out a very embarassing shriek!

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this is the structure I climbed on the metal staircase (to the top of the short part!)

this is the structure I climbed on the metal staircase (to the top of the short part!)

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this building disguised as a boat house held a searchlight

this building disguised as a boat house held a searchlight

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Both locations were excellent and could provide at least a full half-day of entertainment if you bring a picnic. We were there for several hours.

Campbell River to Nanaimo

There are two ways to get from Campbell River to Nanaimo. The first is the way I came after the ferry, highway 19, a new thoroughfare deemed the ‘inland highway.’ It is a speedway, pure and simple, with the highest speed limit I’ve ever seen in Canada (110kph) and nothing to see except a blur of trees. The second option is the older ‘ocean route’, highway 19A, which meanders its way quietly through sleepy hamlets. This is the route I picked to go to Nanaimo today.

It rained all day and most businesses were shut tight, so there wasn’t really much exploring to do. I simply savoured the coastal drive, occasionally stopping for photographs or to stretch my legs.

My longest stop before Nanaimo was in Qualicum Beach, a picturesque retirement community with the oldest average population in Canada. ‘Qualicum’ is from the Pentlach language and means ‘chum salmon.’ I took a small detour into downtown so I could see some of the murals. The town has a museum, but it is only open on Tuesdays and Thursdays during the winter.

I’ve known about Nanaimo since I was a girl because my childhood best friend moved there when were were about ten. I looked him up before coming to the Island, but have thus far been unable to find him and imagine that he’s probably no longer in town. Nanaimo is also famous because of the delicious dessert named after it, the Nanaimo Bar, a decadent confection featuring chocolate, custard, and coconut.

The weather made wandering around the pedestrian-friendly downtown unappealing, so I decided to visit the Nanaimo Museum and take a quick glimpse at the harbour, then call it a day.

Coming into downtown Nanaimo was frustrating. There were two signs for the city and then signs for Victoria, more than a hundred kilometres away. I assumed that I missed downtown and got off the highway, then spent some time trying to find the museum before my GPS was able to help me. As it turns out, Nanaimo is a long, narrow city, and there were more than ten kilometres left to drive before hitting the downtown exit. Nanaimo definitely needs a ‘exit at *** for downtown’ sign at the city limits. Once downtown the museum is easy to find, just follow the big blue M signs. I was happy to find free parking at the corner of Museum Way and Terminal Avenue, literally in front of the museum entrance.

The Nanaimo Museum is brand new. The $2 entrance fee was easily explained by the museum’s size; tiny. This is a fine museum that makes full use of its small footprint. Within a few minutes of arrival I knew what Nanaimo was all about, from its coal mining origins to its bathtub races and Native heritage. It was one of the best museums I have ever visited.

During the summer, the museum also operates the Nanaimo Bastion, a fort built by the Hudson’s Bay Company between 1853 and 1855 to defend its coal mining operations. I had a chance to view the exterior of the Bastion after taking a quick tour of the harbour, which was cut short by the start of a downpour that did not let up until I got home. The harbour was just a couple of blocks from the museum and my raincoat was soaked through by the time I made it back to the car!

Nanaimo has a reputation for being a working, charmless, city, but I found downtown to be quite beautiful and I would very much like to spend more time exploring it on a slightly drier day. Being just 150km from Campbell River, it is the perfect destination for a day trip; far enough away to shake off cabin fever, but still near enough to be easily doable as a round trip.

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

the first rest area outside of Campbell River

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

Oyster Bay Rest Area

next rest area

next rest area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Oysters underfoot at Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

trawlers off of Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

farm across from Baynes Sound Rest Area

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

details about the mural

details about the mural

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

mural in downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

downtown Qualicum Beach

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bathtub racing, what an idea!

bathtub racing, what an idea!

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Nanaimo bars

Nanaimo bars

the first black teacher in BC

the first black teacher in BC

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Nanaimo's mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Nanaimo’s mines are notorious for their death and injury rates, hence the ironic messages.

Native dress

Native dress

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this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

this trunk belonged to Joseph McKay, founder of Nanaimo

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model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

model of Nanaimo's Bastion

model of Nanaimo’s Bastion

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

world famous singer Diana Krall is from Nanaimo

arrowheads

arrowheads

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these beautiful combs caught my eye

these beautiful combs caught my eye

drum

drum

Victrola

Victrola

book of Victrola records

book of Victrola records

Victrola

Victrola

historic building

historic building

close-up

close-up

downtown Nanaimo

downtown Nanaimo

:-)

🙂

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Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

what a great staircase!

what a great staircase!

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

Nanaimo Harbour

I don't know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

I don’t know if I will ever be able to see a palm tree in the wild and not feel a tingle.

the Bastion

the Bastion

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The Museum at Campbell River

I spent a couple of hours this afternoon perusing the displays of the Museum at Campbell River.

Two exhibits made the $6 admission fee worthwhile.

The first is one about the local First Nations culture, including a spectacular show featuring a storyteller and carved masks. No photographs were allowed in this exhibit, so it’s really hard to convey just how great it was. It was a feast for the eyes to view all those colourful carvings and the mask show was a breathtaking journey to a world below the ocean. This appears to be a permanent exhibit, thankfully!

The second exhibit I liked was one of the three videos viewable on demand in a theatre at the end of the tour. The video in question is a documentary about the Ripple Rock explosion, which I’ve previously discussed in my post about Seymour Narrows. The video was comprised of footage of the day, that is from the 1950’s, which added an additional level of interest. I was amazed by the engineering feat that was the destruction of these underwater peaks. Tunnels were dug under the channel and up into the mountains and then charges were laid. Three times as many explosives as would have been needed in an open air project of this size was needed to displace not only the rock but also the water.

In between the First Nations gallery and the Ripple Rock video were galleries about pioneer life in the Campbell River area, a popular hotel, and the local salmon fishing industry. There is a final, temporary, gallery about climate change that I do not feel was sufficiently tied in to the history of Campbell River. A panel showing how climate change has possibly affected the fishing industry would have sufficed.

While I found the exhibits to be over all very well done and informative, I had come expecting to learn more about Campbell River’s general history and left feeling that I’d only been giving small snippets of it. So, I wasn’t entirely satisfied with my visit but do not feel that this is the museum’s fault; I should have checked my expectations at the door and enjoyed what was offered.

Be sure to walk the grounds before or after your visit; there is a wonderful native plant garden to explore!

a striking building

a striking building

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Boat outside the museum that was owned by a Japanese fisherman. The boat was stolen from him by the Canadian government during WWII. Our treatment of the Japanese during this war is one of the most shameful moments of our history.

Boat outside the museum that was owned by a Japanese fisherman. The boat was stolen from him by the Canadian government during WWII. Our treatment of the Japanese during this war is one of the most shameful moments of our history.

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torii seen from the museum

torii seen from the museum

Lord Vancouver, after whom a city and a whole island would be named

Lord Vancouver, after whom a city and a whole island would be named

Another shameful incident in Canadian history is that of the residential schools for Native children

Another shameful incident in Canadian history is that of the residential schools for Native children

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I was amused that the museum dressed up the pioneer cabin for the holidays

I was amused that the museum dressed up the pioneer cabin for the holidays

reminds me of my student days, only substitute a radiator for the stove

reminds me of my student days, only substitute a radiator for the stove

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check out the info on the plaque; this tree was more than a thousand years old when it was chopped down!

check out the info on the plaque; this tree was more than a thousand years old when it was chopped down!

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logging truck

logging truck

water pump outside the pioneer cabin

water pump outside the pioneer cabin

façade representing the third Willows hotel, a popular spot for vacationers to Campbell River at the start of the 19th century

façade representing the third Willows hotel, a popular spot for vacationers to Campbell River at the start of the 19th century

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my impression upon entering this exhibit was awe; I really felt like I was in a Victorian hotel!

my impression upon entering this exhibit was awe; I really felt like I was in a Victorian hotel!

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Being a huge fan of my bank (CIBC), I always note historical instances of it. CIBC came to Campbell RIver to handle payroll.

Being a huge fan of my bank (CIBC), I always note historical instances of it. CIBC came to Campbell RIver to handle payroll.

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I liked this exhibit tucked away under the stairs

I liked this exhibit tucked away under the stairs

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Those are big fish! (from days before we worried about fish stocks)

Those are big fish! (from days before we worried about fish stocks)

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I was also impressed by this floating fishing cottage. I really felt like I was on a dock by the ocean.

I was also impressed by this floating fishing cottage. I really felt like I was on a dock by the ocean.

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type of salmon canned by year (see next picture)

type of salmon canned by year (see next picture)

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this is what I apparently look like when driving a huge vehicle

this is what I apparently look like when driving a huge vehicle

that was my reason for studying history in university

that was my reason for studying history in university

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more about the Japanese fishing boat

more about the Japanese fishing boat

the grounds are lovely and feature a native plant garden

the grounds are lovely and feature a native plant garden

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