A Visit to Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve

I wound up not seeing anything at all in Idaho Falls, locked as I was in my motel room typing. 🙂 I was super happy with my room at Motel West. My absolute only quibble with it was the flaky internet connection. The room was not only clean, but also recently remodeled. I had everything I needed for an extended stay, including a fridge and microwave. It was lovely to be able to make my own coffee in the morning!

This morning, I headed west towards Arco and the Craters of the Moon National Monument and Preserve, a site of volcanic activity where I was able to see lava flows, cinder cones, oceans of sagebrush, and even climb a volcano!

Access to the site was ‘free’ with my Interagency Pass. There’s a seven-mile loop road from which you can access hiking trails. I did a ton of hiking today, more than five miles, and a lot of it was uphill over uneven terrain. I am so out of shape, but the weight loss is compensating a bit for that. 🙂

The site was very much a detour for me, but a worthwhile one. I spent the day going, “Wow. Wow. Wow. Um, more wow?” 😀 This was my first experience with a volcanic site and the evidence of nature’s wrath was breathtaking, as was the earth’s insistence on healing. There were so many signs of life among the lava, from lichens to pines, insects to rodents.

The weather was hot and the sun unrelenting. I was glad to have my outback hat and my Keen sandals were perfect for balancing on volcanic rock.

I am in Pocatello tonight and will head to Salt Lake City tomorrow, probably overnighting somewhere south of there. I have a lot of work to do this week, so I think I will do Zion early next week, otherwise I will have to do a canon ball run there tomorrow. We shall see. 🙂

A Day At Yellowstone National Park

I got to bed quite a bit later than I really wanted to last night and by the time I fell asleep it was about 12:30. I woke up at 6:30. That might sound like a short night, but six solid and uninterrupted hours is amazing for me. The bed at the motel was probably the comfiest I have ever slept in! I dozed until 7:30 and then got going.

It was a nippy morning and there was frost on the truck. The day remained cool, but very comfortable, a perfect fall day where you need to layer up, but not get super bundled. I was really impressed by my packing when I tried to remember where I had put a pair of gloves and a tuque and found them tucked into a side pocket of my travel bag.

I made a stop at McDonald’s for coffee ($1.70 versus $1.00 in non-resort towns!) and decided to be smart and top up the fuel tank ($3.55, which really isn’t horrible).

The west entrance to Yellowstone Park was right after the gas station, at the edge of town. I didn’t realise I was so close! Unfortunately, I had the sun in my eyes the whole drive down to Old Faithful, which meant that I could barely see anything and missed key signs I wanted to photograph, especially the ones welcoming me to Yellowstone and then Wyoming!

The ranger who greeted me at the ticket booth was super friendly. I took my friend Jody’s advice and got the $80 Interagency Pass (commonly called the America the Beautiful Pass). Jody says that it’s good for a lot of sites in Idaho, Utah, and Arizona.

The first milestone of the day was crossing into the first of the two new states I’ll be visiting on the way down, Wyoming!

From the west access road, I turned south onto the Grand Loop towards Old Faithful and stopped at the first walk, Fountain Pots, to see some hot springs and mud holes. It was a nice leg stretch, but the boardwalk was slick with frost and I nearly slipped a few times!

I knew that I needed to go back to West Yellowstone to get to Idaho Falls, so I decided to go straight to Old Faithful and then come back and do as many walks as I had time for, not knowing how long I would have to wait for the old geyser to blow. Old Faithful was essentially a dead end today because of road closures so I couldn’t go beyond it anyway. There was thankfully no construction so the drive in was quick and I got to the visitor’s centre around 10:20. The next eruption was predicted to be at 10:40. Do I have good timing or what?!

Old Faithful isn’t the biggest geyser in Yellowstone and it doesn’t go off like clockwork, but it is very predictable, so I knew I had to go right back outside. The minute I found a spot to watch the famous geyser, it started its show.

And what a show it was! I couldn’t believe the plume of steam coming out of the ground and the column of water! I couldn’t help but think that this is where clouds are manufactured.

I then went back to the visitor’s centre and toured the exhibit and gift shop. I learned in the exhibit just how unique Yellowstone is in the world. It has the largest number of undisturbed hydrothermal features and what really makes it stand out is that it has all four types of features, hot springs, geysers, mud pots, and steam vents. Geysers are also a lot rarer than I realised.

I went to the other gift shop across from the VC and treated myself to a lovely pair of silver earrings. I got my ears repierced this spring after piercing my nose and was pretty sick of the pink stones I’ve had in my ears since the spring! I got studs in a leaf pattern. They were just $13, to my immense surprise.

It was surprising to see this other gift shop and the restaurant being open, so late in the season. In the summer, the Old Faithful site is a bustling community, with a general store, gas pumps, and rental yurts.

Before leaving the Old Faithful site, I had a picnic lunch in my truck. It was only noonish when I headed out, so I went back up to the west entrance junction at Madison and stopped at literally every point along the way to walk and see every type of geothermal feature!

A lady suggested that I make one last stop at the Artists’ Pots just north of Madison and I decided to do the detour since I didn’t feel quite done yet. On the way there, I stopped at Gibbon Falls.

The Artists’ Pots loop involved quite a hike upwards over rough terrain, but it was worth it for the view! I was quite glad to see my truck after and even gladder that I really felt ‘done’ instead of rushed to get back on the road so I could get to Idaho Falls at a decent hour.

I think I did a pretty good job filling my day at Yellowstone! I saw and did a lot more than I expected and really got a sense for what the park is all about.

A few pictures from the day…

And a video…

From Yellowstone, it was time to head to Idaho Falls, where I had reserved a motel room for the weekend. It was only about a two hour drive (except for a half hour construction delay! 🙁 ), so it was the perfect place to get to to get out of the mountains and feel like I was making progress before stopping for three days.

My gas mileage today was perfectly normal, maybe even good since I had a very long downhill stretch where I just put the truck in second and third gears (depending on the slope) and coasted.

I’m not in Idaho Falls to play tourist because I have quite a bit of work to do. If I manage to be on schedule or better, I do have one excursion planned for Sunday. Otherwise, I will do it Monday and head to Utah from there.

I really lucked out on the motel. The cost per night after taxes is $51.75. I have a newly renovated room on the second floor well away from the busy road. The desk and chair setup is adequate, a fridge and microwave mean I was able to get a few groceries (and will be able to make my own coffee), and there is even a pool and hot tub (not that I’m going to make it there tonight, I’m so beat!). This was the absolute cheapest place I could find in the area and the reviews were so good I was suspicious. I am really pleased and won’t mind being locked in here typing for a few days. 🙂

One of the promises I made to myself for the trip down was that I was going to avoid chain restaurants. But by the time I was unpacked tonight, I realised that I was famished from all that fresh air and exercise and that I didn’t want to research local restaurants and drive all over town when there was an Applebee’s close by. So I headed there and, to my immense surprise, ordered a STEAK. Seriously, what’s gotten into me?! 😀 I splurged and got shrimp in a garlicky cheese sauce to top the steak and had nice veggies and mashed potatoes as sides, along with a glass of white wine. It’s a good thing I don’t eat like that every day! But, hey, did I mention I did A LOT of walking today?! 😀 It was a crazy good meal and not too expensive.

After dinner, I went over to Walmart (the closest grocery store) and got some food so that I don’t have to go out first thing in the morning. I’ll do one meal out per day, likely lunch (cheaper), but it’ll be nice to have coffee in the morning without having to get dressed!

Soaked

I needed some fresh air and exercise last night, so well after supper, probably around 7:30, I decided to hike up to the lower petroglyphs viewing area, a distance of just over 4KM round trip. The sky was threatening rain, but I didn’t let it stop me since I’ve seen tons of sky like that in the last months and no rain has ever come.

It was a beautiful evening and the quiet country gravel road felt very isolated. I did pass a few vehicles, with the drivers waving at me, but I still felt rather alone in the world.

The hill up to the petroglyphs looks really steep so I thought getting to the top would be good exercise. Ha. I just kept up my brisk pace and before I knew it, I was at the top and not an iota out of breath. This is apparently the most challenging road to walk from the village, so I guess I’ll have to stick to it if I want to get a semblance of exercise. At 4KM round trip, I really should do it at least three times a week.

There is a campground at the very top of the hill with electrical hookups only and a VERY steep gravel access road. The campground gate was shut when I went down there a little while ago, so I don’t know what the sites are like.

The sky was starting to spit by this point, but I wasn’t concerned, being only about 15 minutes from home. I enjoyed the view for a bit, inhaled as much of that delicious damp prairie air as I could, and then started back down.

About a third of the way home, it started to rain lightly. Right at this point, I was passed by a truck and the driver offered me a lift. I thanked him and said I was fine.

The rain started to pick up a little, so I increased my pace. I was within view of main street when the rain began to come down hard in icy cold little needles. Another truck passed (!) and I again refused a ride. I was already sopping wet, so I might as well finish the walk properly.

By the time I got over the hump, I had gone from sopping wet to soaked. My skirt was completely sodden and very heavy. The roads were mini rivers. I kept up the pace, trying to look as dignified as I could to the drivers on main street (geeze there was a lot of traffic last night). A couple of minutes later, I was home. I hadn’t been wet long enough to be chilled, so a towel and flannel jammies later, I was very comfy.

The storm continued into the night, well after I went to bed. I couldn’t get internet, so I read the magazines I’d bought earlier in the day, then went to bed with a book.

It’s still very damp out there this morning and I’m selfishly disappointed that this rain has once again set me back in being able to movie Miranda to the back of the lot. I’m having charging issues and am hoping that I’ll get a bit more sun in the back, but the ground is still much too spongy.

Getting soaked not withstanding, I really enjoyed my walk last night and think it’s high time I got a couple of audio books onto my iPod Touch and got back into my beach habit of going for several long walks a day.

Out For a Hidden Valley Walk

The sun and heat just returned with a vengeance, so I headed out for a short walk to enjoy the good weather. It’s nice to be back in the rig where there is a lovely cool cross-breeze!

The landscapes and fauna here remind me of the Okanagan before the cold season sets in. Only the palms feel foreign. Most of the cacti here are on steroids, but I did see some impressive ones in the Okanagan, so they don’t make me ooh as much as I would have expected.

When I was in the FHU spot, I noticed this path winding its way up the hill.

When I was in the FHU spot, I noticed this path winding its way up the hill.

Must explore!

Must explore!

Watch your step, repairs needed!

Watch your step, repairs needed!

Big hole with an unstable edge.

Big hole with an unstable edge.

The rocks used as edging are evidence that this path was maintained once.

The rocks used as edging are evidence that this path was maintained once.

Yellow flowers.

Yellow flowers.

More edging.

More edging.

Cactus.

Cactus.

A very secure bungee-line fence...

A very secure bungee-line fence…

... protecting a big pile of dirt.

… protecting a big pile of dirt.

The path meanders up and down.

The path meanders up and down.

Another yellow flower.

Another yellow flower.

Spiny thing. DO NOT WALK BAREFOOT IN TEXAS.

Spiny thing. DO NOT WALK BAREFOOT IN TEXAS.

Palm.

Palm.

Another yellow flower.

Another yellow flower.

Barbed wire fence.

Barbed wire fence.

Fuzzy orange things in trees (no idea why they show up yellow here).

Fuzzy orange things in trees (no idea why they show up yellow here).

Purple flowers.

Purple flowers.

The path follows the RV park and emerges near the entrance.

The path follows the RV park and emerges near the entrance.

Heading into some shade.

Heading into some shade.

Cooooool.

Cooooool.

Butterfly mobile.

Butterfly mobile.

More 'they should be orange' fuzzy balls.

More ‘they should be orange’ fuzzy balls.

Magenta flowers.

Magenta flowers.

A giant succulent.

A giant succulent.

Looking from the entrance towards the road out.

Looking from the entrance towards the road out.

Miranda and the giant field.

Miranda and the giant field.

Miranda and Moya and the giant field.

Miranda and Moya and the giant field.

Crazy mutant cactus right by the dumpster.

Crazy mutant cactus right by the dumpster.

Pamplin Historical Park and The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier (Petersburg, VA)

As the morning marched I, I could see that I was going to waste the day moping. I decided that I was in Petersburg and surely there had to be a Civil War battlefield or monument or something where I could go spend a few hours. I went on Trip Advisor to look up the area attractions and the first thing that came up made me giddy. In less than 20 minutes, I was on my way to the Pamplin Historical Park and The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier, site of the last big battle of the American Civil War, The Breakthrough.

This major battle of April 2nd, 1865, isn’t well known, but it was the death knell for the Confederate Army. The war ended just a week later with the surrender of Confederate soldiers, including General Lee.

The words to describe this incredible facility almost escape me. There is the museum, but also a plantation, a second museum about the Breakthrough battle, and finally there is a walk through the battlefield. I arrived at noon and the park closes at 5:00. I was the last guest off the property and got back so close to 5:00 that they were literally about to send a search party for me. And after five whole hours there, I didn’t see and do everything!

Regular admission to the facility is $12. This includes an audio tour of the entire facility. This gadget is what made the visit so memorable and ensured I spent as much time there as I did. Photography is only allowed outside, not in the two museums.

The first thing to do is tour The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier. You are asked to pick a soldier out of a group and the tour will be personalized with his perspective. I was amused that my randomly selected ‘comrade’, Sergeant Peter Welsh, was originally from Canada! His letters were read by an interpreter, adding a personal touch to the exhibits.

This museum was really, really well done, with lots of artifacts and the audio track being a combination of narration and reading of period documents. One exhibit had three men playing poker and the audio track was of their conversation, a clever way to show the drudgery of daily life in camp.

My favourite exhibit in this museum was one that is optional because it is so intense. You are sent into a battlefield. I shut my eyes for most of it and was completely transported. The ground shakes and bursts of air brush by you, simulating a volley of bullets. By the end of it, I actually ducked and cowered when a shell went off right beside me!

After this museum, I headed outside to tour the Tudor Plantation, a fairly typical tobacco plantation that was occupied by the army. You can tour the house itself, restored to period looks, the kitchen, the tobacco barn, the kitchen garden, and the slave quarters. The slave quarters have a really good movie showing the perspective of six (fictional) people from the 1850s who share their ideas about slavery.

By the time I was doing with the plantation, I had already been on site for three hours! I ate my picnic lunch (bring food!) then continued to the Battlefield Center. On the way there, you can see a reproduction of the trenches used to fight in the area, the sight of which will remind you of World War One.

There are just a couple of exhibits at the Battlefield Center as well as a few movies. It was 3:30 by the time I was done with the exhibits and I had to make the choice between watching a movie or walking through the battlefield. I decided that I wanted to spend some time outdoors.

Before getting to the battlefield, you have to cross a military winter camp. I was disappointed that I’d missed the period reinactors, but they finish for the day around 3:00.

I decided to do the big loop through the battlefield, including the detour to see the Hart farm and the site of a modern camp where people can go recreate the days of the Civil War. But I was too short on time to do the Heartland Trail.

It was amazing to see the Civil War-era ‘works’, the dirt berms built as fortifications. I found it very difficult to believe that at that time, there was nothing in the area but barren ground and mud. While the area is filled with trees today, there was no place to hide except behind the berms during the Civil War.

I had an amazing day at Pamplin Historical Park and am almost grateful that the circumstances have been such lately to have brought me to this memorable facility. I would have really missed out on something special had I been on schedule today.

The pictures below have more information.

map of this impressive facility (it's HUGE)

map of this impressive facility (it’s HUGE)

walking out of the first museum towards the plantation

walking out of the first museum towards the plantation

that's the tobacco barn, where the tobacco leaves were cured over a fire

that’s the tobacco barn, where the tobacco leaves were cured over a fire

first glimpse of Tudor house

first glimpse of Tudor house

the tobacco barn

the tobacco barn

the tobacco barn

the tobacco barn

Tudor house, a fairly typical plantation house

Tudor house, a fairly typical plantation house

lambs

lambs

inside the laundry/kitchen building; house slaves slept upstairs

inside the laundry/kitchen building; house slaves slept upstairs

the stairs from hell

the stairs from hell

the kitchen (in an outbuilding to keep heat and odors out of the main house)

the kitchen (in an outbuilding to keep heat and odors out of the main house)

family cemetery

family cemetery

the laundry/kitchen outbuilding

the laundry/kitchen outbuilding

Tudor house (home of the Boisseau family, pronounced not Bwa-so but Bo-saw)

Tudor house (home of the Boisseau family, pronounced not Bwa-so but Bo-saw)

Tudor house

Tudor house

the outbuildings

the outbuildings

work shed

work shed

the parlour as it might have looked under army occupation

the parlour as it might have looked under army occupation

a box that once held breakfast cocoa

a box that once held breakfast cocoa

interesting wallpaper

interesting wallpaper

I liked the wallpaper in this less formal parlour/dining room

I liked the wallpaper in this less formal parlour/dining room

staircase to the second level

staircase to the second level

Love this bed, but imagine the dust!

Love this bed, but imagine the dust!

dressing table

dressing table

closeup of 19th century toothbrush

closeup of 19th century toothbrush

the trim was a bright aqua colour

the trim was a bright aqua colour

a bedroom imagined as an officer's quarters

a bedroom imagined as an officer’s quarters

a bedroom imagined as an officer's quarters

a bedroom imagined as an officer’s quarters

the children's bedroom as barracks

the children’s bedroom as barracks

the children's bedroom as barracks

the children’s bedroom as barracks

the kitchen garden

the kitchen garden

herbs

herbs

onions

onions

I was leaving this area when the audio invited me to in and see what was growing. Here, it's radishes and onions.

I was leaving this area when the audio invited me to in and see what was growing. Here, it’s radishes and onions.

cayenne peppers!

cayenne peppers!

these cabbage are coming up nicely

these cabbage are coming up nicely

the watermelons are starting

the watermelons are starting

a ball and chain serve as a reminder to keep the gate shut

a ball and chain serve as a reminder to keep the gate shut

the lambs liked the shade provided by the fense

the lambs liked the shade provided by the fense

heading to the slave quarters

heading to the slave quarters

approximate walking times to the various areas (very generous; I must be a fast walker)

approximate walking times to the various areas (very generous; I must be a fast walker)

the field slave quarters weren't as luxurious as those of the house slaves

the field slave quarters weren’t as luxurious as those of the house slaves

approaching the slave quarters

approaching the slave quarters

an interesting lock; if you try to open the door, the chain goes through the whole until it gets blocked by the padlock

an interesting lock; if you try to open the door, the chain goes through the whole until it gets blocked by the padlock

this rooster was very chatty

this rooster was very chatty

entrance to the museum about slavery

entrance to the museum about slavery

the movied showed the perspective of a wealthy slave owner, an abolitionist minister, a freed slave, a slave cook, a farmer, and yeoman (all but the rich lady felt slavery was wrong, but the white except for the minister felt that blacks are inferior and should be segregated)

the movied showed the perspective of a wealthy slave owner, an abolitionist minister, a freed slave, a slave cook, a farmer, and yeoman (all but the rich lady felt slavery was wrong, but the white except for the minister felt that blacks are inferior and should be segregated)

inside slave quarters

inside slave quarters

inside slave quarters

inside slave quarters

children slept up in the rafters

children slept up in the rafters

slaves ate what their masters provided and what they could forage

slaves ate what their masters provided and what they could forage

field slaves had one set of clothes for the year while house slaves had new clothes more often

field slaves had one set of clothes for the year while house slaves had new clothes more often

day pass for a slave to serve at a wedding

day pass for a slave to serve at a wedding

the end of the American Civil War started here

the end of the American Civil War started here

the end of the American Civil War started here

the end of the American Civil War started here

walking towards the Battlefield Center

walking towards the Battlefield Center

trench

trench

the Battlefield Center was built to look like the pointy wooden structures (not the fence in the foreground) called 'abatis', the Civil War equivalent of barbed wire

the Battlefield Center was built to look like the pointy wooden structures (not the fence in the foreground) called ‘abatis’, the Civil War equivalent of barbed wire

canon

canon

looking towards the winter camp

looking towards the winter camp

the Battlefield Center

the Battlefield Center

walking towards the winter camp

walking towards the winter camp

winter camp quarters were given funny names

winter camp quarters were given funny names

map of the Breakthrough Trail

map of the Breakthrough Trail

the site of the battle is now a National Historic Landmark

the site of the battle is now a National Historic Landmark

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

map of the trail including the optional detour to the Hart farm

map of the trail including the optional detour to the Hart farm

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

these berms were built by Civil War soldiers

the Hart farm

the Hart farm

site of a camp where recreationists can live the days of the Civil War

site of a camp where recreationists can live the days of the Civil War

the Hart farm (the area around it was occupied by soldiers, but not the house itself, inhabited by a widow who hid in the cellar when there was shelling)

the Hart farm (the area around it was occupied by soldiers, but not the house itself, inhabited by a widow who hid in the cellar when there was shelling)

the Hart house is a gothic cottage complete with gingerbread

the Hart house is a gothic cottage complete with gingerbread

it's really rather lovely!

it’s really rather lovely!

description of the army camp set up in the Hart orchard

description of the army camp set up in the Hart orchard

another view of the modern camp for recreationists

another view of the modern camp for recreationists

canon

canon

starting on the main loop path

starting on the main loop path

this small ravine was the setting for the events that gave the Union the edge it needed to win the war

this small ravine was the setting for the events that gave the Union the edge it needed to win the war

part of the strategy involved the building of a dam; you can see a break in it here

part of the strategy involved the building of a dam; you can see a break in it here

the battle came to a head here

the battle came to a head here

the neat little audio gadget; when you got to a placard with a number on it, you could enter the number and get a few minutes of audio about the area

the neat little audio gadget; when you got to a placard with a number on it, you could enter the number and get a few minutes of audio about the area

looking up a berm at a canon (really)

looking up a berm at a canon (really)

can you see the canon now?

can you see the canon now?

many minutes later, I'm up the berm by the canon

many minutes later, I’m up the berm by the canon

the Breakthrough Battle was fought on April 2nd, 1865 (entrance to the Battlefield Center)

the Breakthrough Battle was fought on April 2nd, 1865 (entrance to the Battlefield Center)