Hiking

by

A Sea of Rust and Sage: Exploring Arches National Park

I have mixed feelings about Tuesday. I’ll get the unpleasantness out of the way first. The weather was absolutely terrible and I was not equipped to be out in it. While we did get some patches of sun, most of the day was needling rain and slush. I wasn’t too badly off top-wise, with a good rain coat over my fleece hoodie, but sandals and jeans were not appropriate for my bottom half. I spent a lot of time in my truck looking out a amazing views, only running out for brief(ish) hikes during clearings. Last time I checked the forecast for the week, it was supposed to be sunny and in the high 60s to low 70s. The high today was around 50.

And despite this, I managed to spend six hours in the park and take over 200 photographs! Arches National Park is as amazing as I thought it would be!

I started the day after a second good night of sleep in a row. The cabin was super quiet, the temperature perfect (I had to run an oil filled radiator all night and sleep in fleece pants with socks), and it was dark. So when I woke up around 5:45, I was ready to start my day, which including schelpping down the hill to the bathroom in the dark in my jammies. Thankfully, no one else was up. šŸ™‚

I then came back to the cabin, dressed, and put together my coffee stuff before going to the main building to use the kettle in the kitchen. There was only one other person and she was doing her own thing, so I sat at a table and composed my blog post from yesterday. By the time the dorm started to wake up, Iā€™d done my most pressing online stuff and headed back to the cabin to get ready for my day.

I had picked up lunch stuff that didnā€™t need to be refrigerated, so I was able in the cabin to put together a few peanut and strawberry jam sandwiches (something I can eat several days in row without getting sick of it), a bag of nuts, an apple, and a granola bar, as well as water.

It was about 7:00 when I headed out and just shy of 7:30 when I hit the visitorā€™s centre at the park. The rain was really starting to come down so I made the decision to just drive the entire park road and visit all the view points without committing to any hiking. I had planned to only do short hikes today anyway and then do a longer one on the second and third days.

One thing I was very disappointed about was learning that I would not be able to do the ranger-led Fiery Furnace hike I was so eager to do. I had checked availability weeks ago for the morning hike you could buy online and they were full. The other option was to show up at the park in person and try to join a hike that afternoon. As I understood it, the afternoon hikes were first come, first served. So I thought that being so early today would get me in. Nope. All the hikes clear to next week were booked. šŸ™ Iā€™m just not made for this sort of travel where you have to book six to twelve months in advance. Itā€™s the same thing with the Canadian national parks system.

My tour of the park is below in the gallery. When I was done, coming out of Landscape Arch with needling sleetĀ falling, I’d been in the park for six hours and decided I was done. I went into Moab and found the museum. It’s pretty small, but I learned a lot about the history of the area. Post continued below the gallery.

I went back to the hostel for a rest after and paid for a third night. I think that will be it because today, Wednesday, is the only clear day and it’s back to crud for the rest of the day. Two days in the park is going to be plenty. I’ll decide this afternoon.

Even though I spent a lot of time in the truck yesterday, I also hiked closed to 10KM (it adds up!) and I needed a proper stick-to-my-ribs dinner. I settled on the Moab Diner where I had an adequate hamburger steak dinner at a reasonable price. Service was very fast and very friendly. I can understand why it’s such a popular spot!

Since internet access is dismal at the hostel, even right in the main building, I decided to call it a night early and get up extra early to have breakfast at McDonald’s, where I am now. I’m trying to decide on which of two longer hikes I’m doing today and about to head out. The weather is already lovely at just shy of seven!

by

Scobey, MT, to Gillette, WY (and Devils Tower National Monument at Very, Very, Very Long Last)

My first stop after the border was fuel, which was only about $2.74, and which would be very likely the most expensive I’d experience on the U.S. leg of my trip, a very good start!

There’s basically nothing in this part of Montana, so I just drove and drove and drove until I got to Miles City, where I had a quick lunch and checked in that I’d made it across the border.

Then, there was a whole lot more of nothing as I headed towards the Wyoming border, stopping in Broadus for more fuel.

This part of Wyoming is just like home, only with more trees!

I caught my first glimpse of Devils Tower around 3:15, from an angle I’d never seen in pictures, with it rising above the tree tops like a shark’s fin.

IMGP2482

I was exhausted by this point and so disappointed to finally be there in absolutely perfect hiking weather so late in the day. The views from the highway were quite good and I decided that I wouldn’t get my $10’s worth out of the access fee. But just before the turnoff to the entrance to the monument, I had a thought: my interagency pass that I bought last year! I pulled over and took it out of my centre console (I can’t believe I still had it so handy!). October 2015 was punched out. I couldn’t remember if that meant the card was good till the end of September or the end of October so I went to the entrance to find out. It was still valid all the rest of this month! So I drove the 3 miles up to the base of the monument.

Finally saw some fall colours on the way!

IMGP2486

IMGP2487

The monument is a place of immense power. It’s not just a bunch of rock columns popping out of the ground.Ā I’m so glad I got closerĀ because I couldn’t see the incredible textures until I got up close.

IMGP2488

IMGP2489

At its base is a boulder field that reminded me of the Chilkhoot Trail. (For those who track such things, that is NOT once ubiquitous pink hoodie. I found a similar one in my new size and it was like meeting up with an old friend! And I have no idea why I’m leaning that way…)

IMGP2496

Even though I was mentally exhausted, I had physical energy to burn, so I decided to do the 2KM hike around the base of the monument! It’s all paved, but hilly. There were places with amazing views to the valley below. I enjoyed the fresh air and scent of the ponderosa pines.

IMGP2500

I was surprised by the colour of the monument, aĀ bright lime green.

IMGP2513

I could imagine people taking shelter from the rain under this overhang.

IMGP2516

Wonder what these holes were for…

IMGP2517

I had fun watching this little guy eat his lunch.

IMGP2518

There hasn’t been a major rock fall from the monument since 1906, so these boulders predate then.

IMGP2525

The monument is a tricky place for the Parks Service to manage. They consider rock climbing an acceptable sport, but that clashes with Native American beliefs in the holy nature of the site. A compromise is that there is no climbing of the monument during the entire month of June. A permit is required to climb to the top and you have to check in when you get down. Needless to say, there’s no chance of my ever seeing the top, but it’s apparently a fairly level surface about the size of a football field.

Detouring to Devils TowerĀ was definitely worth my time today and I’m very grateful that my interagency pass was still valid.

From there, it was an hour to Gillette. I was in absolutely no mood to shop for a room, so I took the first one I enquired about and then walked across the street to the Applebee’s for dinner. I haven’t been there in a year and boy as it changed! Most of the menu is the same, but it is now really crazy expensive! The steak dinner I was looking forward to that would have cost $15 with a beer and the tip a year ago would have been over $30 tonight! Forget that! I ordered their beer special for $2.50, thinking it would be a tiny glass, and it was HUGE. Exactly what I wanted after a long day on the road! I chose a reasonably priced chicken and bacon wrap that was really delicious and satisfying.Ā Got back to the hotel and the lady at the desk insisted on giving me a cookie (a soft chocolate one with white chocolate chips, hard to resist), so I had dessert, too. šŸ™‚

Tomorrow is going to be another very long haul and I have two shopping stops to make so I’m going to turn in early and hope that I sleep well and can be on my way earlyish, and by that, I mean no later than 9:00, although, really, it should be 7:00. Hopefully, the traffic through Denver will be okay. I really should have done another hour today, but Gillette really was my limit!

by

A Full Day With a Visit to the Big Muddy Badlands and Castle Butte

Today was the day to go get my booster, but it was also the day that my internet situation exploded media-wise. I woke up to a link in a comment to a write-up by CBC about our internet situation. I was, of course, pissed off by our reeve’s lack of support for the project. I was misunderstood/misquoted in a remark I made about the number of people affected and instead of saying something like, “The number of people don’t matter,” he just dismissed my efforts. Lovely to have community support. I then made the mistake of looking at comments and spent too much time replying to trolls. I’ve decided to not go back and look at any other comments!

I finally got on the road around 8:20. I stopped at the gas bar in Coronach before the border to get a coffee and was told I didn’t have to pay! It’s such a small thing, but it really reset my mood! And the coffee was actually quite good, to my surprise!

I was at the border about an hour after leaving home. The crossing was painless beyond having to explain what a cell signal booster does and why I need one. I then enjoyed a drive across Montana landscape that looks a lot like ours to arrive in Plentywood around 10:15. I was picking up my package at the Little Muddy Dry Goods store, which offers a package service for Canadians, but discovered that Main Street isn’t the road that cuts west-east through town. I stopped for fuel (saving 20CAD even with the exchange rate) and got directions.

The package service pickup is at the back of a bright clean open store. I was a bit dismayed that the room was open to the public, like the bar in Opheim I’ve used in the past, but was assured that the door is closed and locked when there is no staff around… I paid my 5USD and then lugged the huge box back to the truck. There, I opened up the package to make sure everything was there and I knew what I was bringing back across the border.

It was about 10:50 by this point. I was an hour earlier than I had thought to be in Plentywood, so it felt like a weird time to hunt down lunch, but I was ready to eat. I’d done research ahead of time and so I headed to the Cousins Restaurant to see if I could order off the lunch menu that early. I got to the restaurant and was greeted very warmly by a server. I find that sometimes these small town restaurants are light on the customer service because they’re not used to seeing strangers and the locals know the drill, but this was not the case here. I was handed a menu that had all their options on it, not just breakfast, so I figured I could order lunch.

The menu was pretty typical American diner fare, so I opted for a ‘patty melt’ which is a fancy term for a hamburger between slices of toast rather than a bun. This turned out to be a slice of ground beef with heaps of perfectly sautĆ©d onions and melty American ‘Swiss’ cheese’ between slices of pumpernickel bread. The menu had said ‘marble rye’, but the pumpernickel flavour was really strong, which was a plus! It elevated the sandwich from pretty ordinary to something special. The sandwich came with fries for 7.99USD. I gave the server my last 10USD (I’d withdrawn 50USD from my US account, so if you’re following my day, you’ll know that I had 10USD left!). I’m really glad I had lunch at Cousins Restaurant.

Then, it was time to head up to the border at Regway/Raymond, which I hadn’t even known existed between Portal and Scobey until John in Santa Fe told me about it! There, upon seeing my passport and being told where I live, the customs official exclaimed that he recognised me from the radio this morning…

I declared the booster and he had me go in to pay. Then something interesting happened. He clued in that I’d said I work from home as a transcriptionist/proofreader and that I was bringing in a booster, so he asked if I was bringing it in for commercial purposes. Oh, boy, I thought. This is going to cost me! I cautiously asked what’s the difference. He looked at me like I had snakes growing out of my head. “Has no one at the border ever told you that if you import stuff for your business you don’t have to pay the PST???!!!” HUH???!!! Well, that was news to me! Dang!

It was then time to figure out what I owed now that I was importing as a business. I had my USD invoice and my PayPal receipt showing what I’d paid in Canadian. He said that I’d probably get a better exchange rate through whatever system they use and I said that the exchange rate is worse now than it was when I bought the booster almost two weeks ago. He did the math and went, “Yup. According to your PayPal rate, you owe me $53. According to our rate right now, you owe me $61. That will be $53, please.”

First time I came away from the border having paid less than I expected to pay. Lovely guy. And yet, he and another guard then emptied out my truck (thankfully, I had very little in it) and even went through my purse, which I had left on the front seat. It’s so lovely to be waved through into a foreign country and be treated like a criminal when coming into your own. But, hey, I saved $53…

From the border, I headed north into the Big Muddy Badlands, eventually pulling over to check my emails. I had a voicemail from someone at CBC Radio wanting to schedule ad interview for later that day, so I was able to return that call and set up a time for them to call me.

Then, it was time to head on to Castle Butte, a famous landmark in the area. I thought I’d have trouble finding it, but there was a sign announcing the turnoff. Castle Butte is a particularly remarkable hill in the middle of lots of other hills and was used as a landmark in the old days. I arrived, changed into a hiking skirt and my Keen sandals and pretty much crab walked my way to the top. It was very slippery! But I got up there without much incident and was surprised when I reached the summit effortlessly.

The trip down was another story, though! I crouched down and pretty much slid my way to the bottom. Then, I had a walk around the entire structure.

IMG_0623

IMG_0624

IMG_0627

IMG_0629

IMG_0630

IMG_0638

IMG_0641

IMG_0646

IMG_0648

IMG_0650

IMG_0651

IMG_0652

IMG_0656

And people think Saskatchewan is flat…

From Castle Butte, I took the back road through Harp Tree to get to Willow Bunch. There were just one or two signs the whole way there to assure me that I was heading in the right direction. Just as I was certain I was completely misplaced, I saw the red tower of the Willow Bunch Museum! Whew, what an adventure! But I wouldn’t have really needed a search party since I had cell service the whole way through this particularly desolate part of the province…

When I got in, I called Caroline, who got home late last night, to check in as she’d left me a message and asked me to do that. I asked if I could come by around 4:00 so I could do my interview from their landline. Of course! So I called back my contact at CBC Radio and gave him C&C’s number.

I then very carefully unpacked my booster, making sure I kept the packing material and did as little damage to it as I could. The materials are really heavy and obviously of better quality than what I’ve received from Wilson.

IMGP2276

IMGP2277

I tried to set the booster up temporarily without mounting the antenna at any great height, but I got the ‘you have oscillation’ error message that means that the interior and exterior antennas are too close together. I managed to get the old antenna off the pole and the new one mounted with a minimum amount of effort, but I still couldn’t get the booster to work. I went so far as to install the booster in the shed, which was as much horizontal separation as I had cable for, but that still wasn’t enough… Tomorrow, I’ll go to town and get another section of pole and hope that another 10′ of vertical separation will do the trick. If not, I’m at a loss and will contact the sellers to get their thoughts. I’m disappointed, to say the least. I had a feeling this unit would be overkill for my small property and I might be right… But I’m not giving up yet!

Then, it was time to head over to C&C’s, where I had a coffee and catchup before my interview. I think the interview went well and I was able to share how I lose internet during the day and have to pack up my things and race up the hill.

I think I’m done with this issue because nothing is going to get done. I’ve fought a good fight, but with SaskTel not having to answer to anyone and my community management not willing to get involved, this will never get resolved. Time to start thinking about where I’ll spend next summer since it won’t be here…

After my interview, I got another coffee and then Caroline asked if I could stay for supper! Of course! šŸ˜€ She made her amazing whisky-marinaded salmon with scarlet runner beans, corn on the cob, and grilled zucchini. She is such a good cook! It was a lovely meal where we all came away replete, but not stuffed. They don’t do dessert, but they do do wine! So we sat out for a bit to finish our glasses of fermented grape juice, then I headed home with a giant zucchini.

When I got in, I remounted the old antenna onto the broomstick and stuck the whole thing in the truck like I used to have it set up, then restarted the old booster. It’s going to rain tomorrow, but hopefully I can do more work on the new booster Sunday and Monday and get it working… Croft, you’d better be online this weekend! šŸ˜‰

Whew, it’s been a very long and full day. Time for a hot shower and hopefully a good night’s sleep. I’ve been so stressed that I have been sleeping poorly, but hopefully the exercise I did today will help.

by

A Taste of Bandelier National Monument

Bandelier National Monument lies just an hour or so northwestish of Santa Fe and is huge open country of mountains and mesas scattered with archeological ruins, cave dwellings, and petroglyphs. So pretty much my idea of heaven. I knew I couldn’t do justice to the more than 70 miles of hiking trails in the monument, but decided to at least go do the main day hike that would occupy a few hours.

The monument is named for Adolph Bandelier, a Swiss-born scholar who came to the southwest at 40 to fulfill his dream of studying the native peoples of the area. He learned many of the local native languages and in 1880 was the first person to report on the peoples of the Frijoles Canyon, where the monument that bears his name is located.

There was a lineup of cars ahead of me that took the same picture.

There was a lineup of cars ahead of me that took the same picture.

The scenic lookout was... scenic.

The scenic lookout was… scenic.

I love the mesas.

I love the mesas.

The shadows were impressive.

The shadows were impressive.

By the time I arrived around 11:00, the place was packed. A ranger guided me into an overflow parking spot I was certain I could not get out of and then told me to go into the visitors’ centre to register my annual pass, then come back and hang my pass from my rearview mirror. Without a pass, access is $12 per carload, good for a week. If you want a trail guide for the two day hikes, they are $1 and $1.50 each. Please don’t be cheap and not get them, otherwise you won’t get much out of the hikes. After two Japanese tourists kept asking me, “What’s that?” I gently told them that they needed to go back for a guide, they did, and they thanked me for it.

The hike I did today is called the ‘Main Loop Trail’, with the addition of the Alcove House spur. The literature say that this should fill about two hours and it took me closer to three because I read everything and went up every ladder. Every ladder? Read on. Those with a fear of heights may wish to stop here. šŸ˜€

The visitors' centre is built into what was once a guest ranch.

The visitors’ centre is built into what was once a guest ranch.

I'm really falling in love with this style of architecture.

I’m really falling in love with this style of architecture.

The visitors' centre.

The visitors’ centre.

I thought this exhibit about not leaving any trash was quite clever.

I thought this exhibit about not leaving any trash was quite clever.

The 'Latin names' were the best.

The ‘Latin names’ were the best.

Depositus nonreturnii.

Depositus nonreturnii.

Proboscus wipus was my favourite.

Proboscus wipus was my favourite.

Starting the hike.

Starting the hike.

You start the hike on the floor of the valley and then climb up to the cliff dwellings.

Frijoles Canyon means Bean Canyon.

Frijoles Canyon means Bean Canyon.

Kiva.

Kiva.

Lovely contrast of textures.

Lovely contrast of textures.

Village ruins.

Village ruins.

Looking to the cliff dwellings.

Looking to the cliff dwellings.

Another kiva.

Another kiva.

Approaching the cliff dwellings.

Approaching the cliff dwellings.

Take the longer path is my motto.

Take the longer path is my motto.

Only enter caves that have ladders? This is going to be fun!

Only enter caves that have ladders? This is going to be fun!

Stairs carved into stone.

Stairs carved into stone.

First ladder.

First ladder.

Small cozy cave.

Small cozy cave.

It would have been a lot of work to excavate the caves using only tone tools.

It would have been a lot of work to excavate the caves using only stone tools.

Looking into a reconstructed ruin; the architecture is quite sophisticated.

Looking into a reconstructed ruin; the architecture is quite sophisticated.

Look at that masonry!

Look at that masonry!

I like how the vigas (beams) stick out.

I like how the vigas (beams) stick out.

It impresses me that they built structures with several stories.

It impresses me that they built structures with several stories.

The layout of the village below becomes clearer.

The layout of the village below becomes clearer. The first floor had 240 small rooms and there is evidence that there were several stories above.

Impressive rock formation.

Impressive rock formation.

Looking back to the masonry.

Looking back to the masonry.

Pictogram of a snake, a major feature of these people's religion.

Pictogram of a snake, a major feature of these people’s religion.

Ladder into the larger home.

Ladder into the larger home.

Just room after room. All of us in it kept joking about what prime real estate it was.

Just room after room. All of us in it kept joking about what prime real estate it was.

"Oh, look, another bedroom!"

“Oh, look, another bedroom!”

View to the village below.

View to the village below.

Makes you realise that European and Native American development really wasn't that far apart.

Makes you realise that European and Native American development really wasn’t that far apart.

So much living happened in this cave.

So much living happened in this cave.

"I think this was the dining room. I mean, look at that view!"

“I think this was the dining room. I mean, look at that view!”

"Nah, maybe the living room."

“Nah, maybe the living room.”

More cool rocks.

More cool rocks.

More twisty narrow stone steps.

More twisty narrow stone steps.

Climbing into the reconstructed caveate.

Climbing into the reconstructed caveate.

Anchor points for the looms.

Anchor points for the looms.

Not original soot. They have to smoke the room every few years to get rid of the graffiti.

Not original soot. They have to smoke the room every few years to get rid of the graffiti.

The view is growing on me. I think I want to move to a cliff dwelling.

The view is growing on me. I think I want to move to a cliff dwelling.

Path to a campground. I did not follow it. This used to be the only way into the valley to get to the ranch where the visitors' centre is located.

Path to a campground. I did not follow it. This used to be the only way into the valley to get to the ranch where the visitors’ centre is located.

Towering mountains.

Towering mountains.

It's like an apartment complex.

It’s like an apartment complex.

So many foundations.

So many foundations.

The holes represent a floor. Can you see the petroglyph in between?

The holes represent a floor. Can you see the petroglyph in between?

This painting was found behind layers of plaster.

This painting was found behind layers of plaster.

Looking back to the cliff dwellings.

Looking back to the cliff dwellings.

In bad weather, you have to turn back at the end of the cliff dwellings and go back the way you came. In good weather, you can walk back down to the valley and do a loop back to the vistors’ centre. You have to cross the river several times if you end up doing the Alcove House Spur.

This guy was very nice and posed for several pictures.

This guy was very nice and posed for several pictures.

2012 floodwaters reached this level.

2012 floodwaters reached this level.

The damage from the flood is still visible.

The damage from the flood is still visible.

These 'bridges' brought back memories of the Chilkoot Trail!

These ‘bridges’ brought back memories of the Chilkoot Trail!

I eventually came to the point where I had to make an important decision.

Time to decide if I'm doing the Alcove House spur...

Time to decide if I’m doing the Alcove House spur…

140 ft of vertical ascent not suited to those with fears of heights? I'm over my fear of heights (mostly) aren't I? Let's go check it out!

140 ft of vertical ascent not suited to those with fears of heights? I’m over my fear of heights (mostly) aren’t I? Let’s go check it out!

The spur is through forest. There are so many ecosystems in this small section of the monument.

More debris from the flood.

More debris from the flood.

It was all moved out of the way.

It was all moved out of the way.

More cliff dwellings.

More cliff dwellings.

More flood damage.

More flood damage.

Impressive contrast of colours and textures.

Impressive contrast of colours and textures.

Yet more cliff dwellings.

Yet more cliff dwellings.

Last warning.

Last warning.

In case the signage hasn’t been clear, it’s four ladders, a few staircases, and 140ft straight up a cliff to check out Alcove House…

Oh, I can do this. Up I go.

Oh, I can do this. Up I go.

That looks doable.

That looks doable.

I had to wait at the second ladder for a terrified man to come down. It took ages. Everyone at the bottom told him great job, way to go, you should be so proud of yourself, etc., but he just looked down in shame, focusing on the fact that he was afraid, not that he had conquered his fear. šŸ™

This ladder’s challenge was that it’s slightly tilted, so you feel like you might slide off.

That doesn't look so bad.

That doesn’t look so bad.

I made it!

I made it!

Down is starting to look far away.

Down is starting to look far away.

Okay, that's pretty tall, but I've come this far.

Okay, that’s pretty tall, but I’ve come this far.

I should have taken a short break before doing that third ladder, the longest of the four, as my legs got shaky midway, but I pushed on. I wasn’t afraid, just tired.

Pfft, that's nothing.

Pfft, that’s nothing.

Almost there!

Almost there!

A few steps and...

A few steps and…

A kiva is the first thing I take a picture of?!

A kiva is the first thing I take a picture of?!

Ah, now, THAT was worth the climb!

Ah, now, THAT was worth the climb!

Wow!

Wow!

I'm obsessed with kivas, apparently.

I’m obsessed with kivas, apparently.

So worth the workout!

So worth the workout!

Looking back as I head down.

Looking back as I head down.

It looks really bad from that angle!

It looks really bad from that angle!

The ladders were all anchored, so they felt safe. The super long one felt interminable to climb down, but the others were fine. It would have been easier if the rungs had been a bit closer together. I wasn’t even apprehensive. How far I’ve come!

My knee had had just about enough abuse by the time I got to back down, but the climb up was so worth it! And it was such fun. I love trails like these!

It was then time to head back to my truck.

More flood debris.

More flood debris.

Magnificent.

Magnificent.

They still have signage that call the local peoples Anasazi, a word of Navajo origin that has fallen out of favour because it means something like, 'Our bitter enemies.'

They still have signage that call the local peoples Anasazi, a word of Navajo origin that has fallen out of favour because it means something like, ‘Our bitter enemies.’

Wish this path was part of the trail.

Wish this path was part of the trail.

Back at the visitors' centre.

Back at the visitors’ centre.

Thankfully, the car next to me was gone when I was ready to pull out, so I had only had to do a little manoeuvring to get out. It was a rare case where I would have been better off to nose into a spot and back out of it, but it all worked out in the end.

My taste of Bandelier National Monument was delightful, but not quite enough. I’d love to come back and do a full day hike next year!

by

Pecos National Historic Park

John pointed out to me yet another national monument/park just a short distance from Santa Fe, the Pecos National Historic Park. Yesterday promised to be, and was, a gorgeous day, so I decided to go check it out. I got a late start because I was working on the project from hell (most projects of that type would have taken me three hours and it took seven), so I only arrived around 12:45.

The website made it seem like there was a lot to do, with two trails and two tours, but they were still on their winter hours and their Civil War trail was closed. There was a tour at 1:30 of a ranch house owned by Academy Award winner Greer Garson, a benefactor of the park, but that didn’t interest me. Despite that, even if I had had to pay the $3 admission fee, I would have come out of there feeling that I got my money’s worth. If you like history and are interested in ruins, Pecos is a must-do for Santa Fe!

The drive there felt longer than it was because there was a bike marathon thingamabob along a good part of my route to I-25 and instead of being able to drive 50MPH, I had to drive 25MPH. But I eventually got there!

Made it!

Made it!

Look at what I found in the parking lot, a car with a license plate from ARGENTINA!

A license plate from *Argentina*!!!

A license plate from *Argentina*!!!

I’ve heard that Argentinian Spanish is very different from European and Mexican, but this was too interesting to ignore, so I went up to the couple and said in Spanish, “Wow, big journey! How long have you been traveling?”

This is Spanish speaking territory, so they weren’t shocked by the Spanish and replied, “Two years!”

We then had a bit of a chat about their trip. They are arriving in Alaska this summer. I gave them some suggestions (do not miss Dawson City!) and answered their questions about the Alaska Highway. We could understand each other just fine! And just as I was leaving some time later, they came to grab me to act as an interpreter because they were having trouble with a Ranger’s accent. I’m really starting to feel like I speak Spanish now that I’ve communicated with folks from four different Spanish speaking countries (Spain, Mexico, Chile, and Argentina) and been understood. So cool!

But enough about that, you want to hear about Pecos!

Pecos is one of the most important Native pueblos of the area, home to some 2,000 people.Ā  Archeologist Kidder found here perfectly preserved layers of history that enabled him to sort out timelines, tribes, and categorize pottery with methods that are still used today. He considered Pecos the place that helped to make sense of the until then scattered and conflicted information about the peoples of the region and work out a plausible chronology.

A 16th century report of the pueblo describes it as the “greatest and best” of the Indian pueblos, and is, “most thickly settled.”

You learn all of this in the visitors’ centre little museum, which does a good job of setting you into the context of Pecos. Then, you head outside to see the ruins.

From the visitors’ centre, there is a trail (accessible) that takes you around the ruins of the pueblo all the way to the ruins of 17th century and 18th century churches built by the Spaniards determined to bring Christianity to these ignorant savages.

I was surprised by how much there was to see. The pueblo had been like a large fortress, made of 700 rooms, four to five stories high, around a central courtyard, with the upper stories linked by balconies and walkways. It must have been quite a sight!

The pueblo would have had a wall all around it.

The pueblo would have had a wall all around it.

IMGP1730

The church in the distance.

The church in the distance.

The trail is a bit of a treasure hunt if you are loaned the trail brochure, several sheets of laminated paper with tons more information than you find on the sparse placards scattered throughout the site. I had fun looking for all the numbered markers.

I was loaned this trail guide.

I was loaned this trail guide.

Snow in the distance.

Snow in the distance.

Wheelchair accessible path.

Wheelchair accessible path.

Kivas were circular holes in the ground accessible via ladders. The entrance led to a ceremonial chamber where much of daily living, including weaving, was done. There are two kivas on the tour that you can actually enter!

Entrance to a kiva.

Entrance to a kiva.

Hey, you can really go down!

Hey, you can really go down!

I can never resist stuff like this.

I can never resist stuff like this.

Surprisingly light down there.

Surprisingly light down there.

Ceiling.

Ceiling.

This hole represents the journey of the Pecos people to this world.

This hole represents the journey of the Pecos people to this world.

Masonry of the kiva walls.

Masonry of the kiva walls.

Foundations are all that remain of what were four or five story buildings.

Foundations are all that remain of what were four or five story buildings.

Kivas.

Kivas.

There was a trash heap here.

There was a trash heap here, a goldmine for archaeologists.

So much open country.

So much open country.

You could have seen all around from up here.

You could have seen all around from up here.

More snow in the distance.

More snow in the distance.

This sign made me laugh.

This sign made me laugh. See how uneven the word uneven is?

Up a few stairs for a view!

Up a few stairs for a view!

Looking from the top of the stairs across another kiva.

Looking from the top of the stairs across another kiva.

Contemporary descriptions make it sound like a medieval castle, both in its construction and occupation, with all manner of trades, such as weaving and pottery, being practiced, and there being music.

What the pueblo might have looked like.

What the pueblo might have looked like.

Then, you get to the churches. What we see are the foundations of the 1625 church and the ruins of the 1717 church walls. The first church was destroyed in a 1680 revolt by the Natives, but they didn’t keep their independence for long.

Approaching the church.

Approaching the church.

What remain are bits of the newer church.

What remain are bits of the newer church.

It would have been white washed.

It would have been white washed.

Foundation of the older church.

Foundation of the older church.

You can see a lot of details of the construction.

You can see a lot of details of the construction.

The grass is trying to reclaim it.

The grass is trying to reclaim it.

The Pecos leaders gave each pueblo a knotted rope. Each knot represented a day. When there were no more knots, it was time to attack the Spaniards.

The Pecos leaders gave each pueblo a knotted rope. Each knot represented a day. When there were no more knots, it was time to attack the Spaniards.

I was shocked that we could enter the ruin and walk around! This is where I spent most of my visit, admiring the architecture.

I couldn't believe I could go in!

I couldn’t believe I could go in!

More foundations of the old church.

More foundations of the old church.

Entering the newer church.

Entering the newer church.

Narrow passageway...

Narrow passageway…

...into a courtyard.

…into a courtyard.

Another doorway to explore.

Another doorway to explore.

And another.

And another.

Look at the two angles of the masonry joining together.

Look at the two angles of the masonry joining together.

This buttress is perfectly preserved.

This buttress is perfectly preserved.

I like how the park uses these wooden fences to gently corral guests.

I like how the park uses these wooden fences to gently corral guests.

I should have asked if the flagstone is original or at least a replica of what would have been used.

I should have asked if the flagstone is original or at least a replica of what would have been used.

Also curious about the stairs.

Also curious about the stairs.

You can really see the detail of the masonry work here.

You can really see the detail of the masonry work here.

Vigas (wooden ceiling beams).

Vigas (wooden ceiling beams).

The construction is just like that of a medieval keep, with a flared base to distribute the weight of the building (and I thought my medieval history degree was never going to be useful in the real world!).

The construction is just like that of a medieval keep, with a flared base to distribute the weight of the building (and I thought my medieval history degree was never going to be useful in the real world!).

Two-toned masonry.

Two-toned masonry.

This drain is original! The holes in it are perfectly round!

This drain is original! The holes in it are perfectly round!

Oodles of foundations.

Oodles of foundations.

Another kiva.

Another kiva.

What is it with me and pokey places?

What is it with me and pokey places?

Oh, just like the other one.

Oh, just like the other one.

This would have been a turkey coop, with a cobblestone floor for easy cleaning.

This would have been a turkey coop, with a cobblestone floor for easy cleaning.

The directional signs made me laugh.

The directional signs made me laugh.

This would have been a 16th or 17th century residence or part of a farm.

This would have been a 16th or 17th century residence or part of a farm.

One last glimpse of the church.

One last glimpse of the church.

Pecos’ last inhabitants left the pueblo in 1838 and joined up with related tribes nearby in Jemez, where their descendents live to this day.

This boardwalk goes over the Santa Fe trail.

This boardwalk goes over the Santa Fe trail.

The visitors' centre had lovely architecture.

The visitors’ centre had lovely architecture.

Pecos pueblo taught me a lot about the geography of the region, the local peoples, the influence of the Spaniards on the development of the region, and more. I am leaving Santa Fe with a much better understanding of the history of this region and how it ties in to the history of my part of the continent. Thanks for another great recommendation, John!

Now, it’s time to move on. Work kept me up very late, two hours past my bedtime, last night, so I am up very late this morning and nowhere near ready to hit the road yet, but I am going! Next stop is Bandelier National Monument and then I’m pointing Moya towards South Dakota. I doubt I will get out of New Mexico today, but tomorrow will be a driving day.