Klondike Highway

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Whitehorse Supply Run

I left Dawson in pouring rain at 8 this morning. There was a lot of construction between Pelly Crossing and Whitehorse, which stretched the trip to a nearly interminable 6.5 hour journey.

My first item of business was to have the toad’s tires examined. Thankfully there’s a Kal Tire in Whitehorse! The news was acceptable; I need two new front tires and an alignment. They should be able to do the work first thing tomorrow, so I should still be able to do some touristy stuff.

I’m staying at Hi Country RV Park… In a tent! 🙂 It’s pricey, $18 + tax, but I got a locals discount and showers are included. There is also wi-fi, which I’m accessing with my iPod Touch! The campground is nice, but I resent being sold a ‘tenting’ spot where the only place to set up the tent without being on rocks is on a slope. Our tent spots might be on gravel, but at least they are flat!

Tonight, I will do my non-perishable shopping, which includes things for my friends. I’d better get cracking!

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Fixing the RV Water Heater

It’s taken about a year from the first manifestation of a problem to a resolution, but my RV water heater is now operating perfectly. The final fix was easy, but getting there involved quite a bit of diagnostics.

The problem was that the water heater would fire up, then turn off after a few seconds. The problem appeared to be propane flow. At least, that’s what seemed logical to me. After all, whenever something else in the rig fires up then dies, it’s because there’s no propane. So, that’s the red herring I chased until I finally asked for help. Experienced RVers, including Croft, told me they’d experienced similar symptoms at the same time their circuit board died. This wasn’t very reassuring!

Before I was sent out to buy a new circuit board, I was told to check all the connections to make sure they were clean and tight. That helped a bit, sometimes.

The next step was to remove and replace the probe. Les of RVer’s Corner did this for me when I stayed over in Prince George this spring, using a probe from a leaky heater he’d picked up. He also did a few adjustments. This also helped a bit, sometimes. So, I had to concede that I had a worst-case scenario short of replacing the whole RV water heater and needed a new circuit board.

Circuit boards aren’t cheap; the best price I could find in Canada was over $200 with shipping. It wasn’t an expense I could justify at a time when I had access to free hot showers. I decided to hold off until the summer when I’d be a bit more flush and then bite the bullet.

This is when I discovered that sometimes procrastination can pay off. Donna of Life On Our Ark knows an RV tech named Tony*, based in Okotoks, who just happened to be replacing a perfectly good water heater with a perfectly good circuit board just like mine. Long story short, the circuit board made its way to me for the unbelievable price of $15–the cost of shipping!

The new board arrived this afternoon and installation took fifteen minutes, ten of which involved finding tools. On a scale of easy peasy to omigodcallanrvtech, I’d consider the replacement of the circuit board in an RV water heater to be easy.

Donna's awesome packaging! :-)

Donna’s awesome packaging! 🙂

the boards are attached with two screws and have two electrical connections

the boards are attached with two screws and have two electrical connections

the boards were identical, right down to their round green sticker

the boards were identical, right down to their round green sticker

this awkwardly placed screw required WD-40 and pliers to remove and reinstall

this awkwardly placed screw required WD-40 and pliers to remove and reinstall

guess which one is old and which one is new

guess which one is old and which one is new

*Tony Thomas, Technician/Owner of RV+MD (that is a red cross) Mobile RV Service “Quality, Full-Line RV Service At Reasonable Rates”  (403) 968-RVMD (7833) rvmdrv@telus.net

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Internet in Dawson City

The internet situation in Dawson City this summer is abysmal and I am spending a good chunk of my day apologizing for this and telling people to use our wi-fi for emails only. Guests are about as understanding as I was last summer, before I understood the internet situation in Yukon. It’s bad for business.

There is one internet provider in all of Yukon, Northwestel. There is also only one line linking Yukon to Outside. Finally, Northwestel is protected by Canada’s punitive-towards-the-customer competition laws. This means that Northwestel doesn’t have to upgrade the infrastructure, only has to provide as much bandwidth as it chooses, can throttle back users at will (even if the capacity for more is there), and can charge whatever it wants.

There was a big exposé in the Whitehorse paper exposing Northwestel’s ‘throttle back’ policy. People are up and arms about this, but what can we do? I experienced the exact same thing when I was living in the Gatineau Hills, a mere 50km from the capital of Canada. The only internet accessible to me was a 28kbs dial up connection for which I paid the same as DSL and efforts made to improve service was blocked by the government. I really think that the only thing that could fix the telecommunications industry in Canada would be for folks to band together and provide their own service. That’s what happened in the Gatineau Hills, with a few people who had access to a DSL connection linking up via repeaters to provide a high speed wireless connection to as many people as possible.

All that to say, the internet situation is really affecting tourism this year. We can only have about 20 people on our wi-fi at one time before it crashes and we can only run a couple of hard-wired computers. There’s just not enough bandwidth to go around. Some long termers have run their own private lines, but they are also experiencing slow speeds and throttling.

In the midst of all this chaos are folks like me who are connecting to the internet via the cellular network and who have experienced a grand total of five hours without service this summer, decent speeds, and few drops. I’m starting to be embarrassed. 🙂

Telus and Bell internet sticks work here, and some Americans have had good luck with their Verizon aircards. I don’t know what it is about Verizon in that it seems to provide service for some and not others; perhaps it has something to do with their package. AT&T definitely does not work up here.

Since satellite has the same issues as DSL or cable internet, it seems that cellular is the way to go to get online in Dawson City. I’m a little worried that getting the word out will break the system!

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Summer Status Update

This summer has thus far not been what I signed up for, but it’s been okay, and much better now that I have two and a half days off next week! I’ll not only be able to knock a couple more places off my bucket list, but also get some paint to start the decorating portion of the makeover!

Speaking of painting, I’ve been doing our bathroom floors as a special, after hours project. Which explains why it’s 10PM and I’m off to change into my paint-soaked gear, something that tends to confuse those used to seeing me look presentable in a skirt and tee-shirt. 🙂

My biggest accomplishment in the past six weeks has been the learning of one little phrase: ein dollar für drei minuten. As in our showers take $1 for 3 minutes and we have a lot of German tourists who have a hard time understanding that. It took only two tries for me to get the phrase down pat, according to my very nice German teachers RVing here in their German-plated dump-truck style RV. 🙂

It’s been a pretty mundane and ho-hum super crazy busy summer so far, with the weather not being nearly as good as it was last year, but I am in good spirits. I’m in the Klondike, my business is booming, and there is so much going on behind the scenes that I sometimes find myself smiling at the most inappropriate moments. As my friend Croft says, life is good!

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La Table on 5th

La Table on 5th is the best restaurant in Dawson and quite possibly in all of the Yukon. It is attached to the Aurora Inn, which offers the finest accommodation in Dawson. To say it’s out of my budget is putting it mildly.

Well, I was invited to dine with someone at La Table tonight, so I got a chance to see what the fuss is all about. Oh. My. The offerings are the difference between ‘cooking’ and ‘cuisine.’

We started by splitting the ‘summer salad’, which had spinach, endive, pear, walnuts, and gorgonzola. That would make a meal unto itself. There’s nothing like the salty-sweet pairing of pears and gorgonzola with nuts for crunch!

As a main course, my companion had beef, potatoes dauphinoise, spinach, and red onion compote. I had the butternut squash gnocchi which came in a creamy goat cheese sauce sprinkled with pancetta and topped with spinach, roasted asparagus, and roasted red peppers. Divine.

We then had a 12 year old whisky (Scotch!), a Glenlivet, which is one of my favourites as it is so smooth and peaty. My companion made an honest effort but didn’t enjoy the drink at all. I loved the look on the server’s face when I said I wanted it neat, a look I always get when I order whisky neat. Heck, if I’m going to drink something with that kind of a price tag I don’t want it watered down! As an aside, that’s what uskeba (in my email address) means, whisky that is. I created the word as an anglicised version of usquebaugh, or whisky. 😉

The meal ended with a ‘dessert tester’–mango pineapple compote, chocolate volcano-type cake with strawberry coulé, and their version of tiramisu (which was like no tiramisu I’ve ever had). All were delicious. 🙂

Service at La Table is personal, unhurried, and attentive which, together with the fine offerings from the kitchen, make the La Table experience worth the price tag. Dining there tonight was a treat I would hope to repeat one day.